Use this guide to replace the display assembly.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

      • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

      • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

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  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

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    • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

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    • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    This plastic cover wasn’t included with the new battery so I placed the original one back in. Was it supposed to go back in? This detail wasn’t clear since the original cover didn’t fit exactly over the newer battery connector. Plus any stickiness of adhesive that may have been there was gone.

    arnolfo santoro - Reply

    • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

      • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

      • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

    Top screw in this image was not a T6. I found that a T5 bit fit this one.

    Alex Grayson - Reply

    • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

    Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

    Andrew - Reply

    • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

    I lost this screw! How important is it? Will it be okay with just the 3 previously removed screws?

    Gerardo Jimenez - Reply

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    • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

    • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

    • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

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    • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

      • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

    • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

      • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

    WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.

    Behram Beldagli - Reply

    You don’t want to work on a live system as you could damage parts

    Dan -

    How can I remove interposer I m not able to remove it

    Raunak - Reply

    you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.

    duncan rmi -

    What happens if the Battery Contact Board fails?

    racoon2956 - Reply

    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the iSight camera cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

    This was the hardest part of the repair for me. The iSight cable was really lodged in its socket. "Walking" the connector as the guide suggests -- i.e. pushing on each side alternately at a 45 degree angle (with more force than I expected) -- eventually worked.

    Katherine Agnew - Reply

    • Move the iSight camera cable aside.

    It is pretty much impossible to do this step before you do the next one as the airport cables are in the way.

    maccentric - Reply

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the three antenna cable connectors from the AirPort board.

    • The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:

      • Connect the long-sleeved cable to the socket closest to the ports.

      • The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.

      • The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.

    What does the J0, J1 and J2 connections represent on the Airport Card? I had an issue where the wifi and bluetooth went out and said "Not Available" so I replaced the I/O board and the airport card. The Wifi now works but Bluetooth is still showing not available. I wanted to know which connection meant what and to see if I could fix the issue. I have reseated the cables, deleted the Bluetooh.plist file and reset SMC, but bluetooth still appears as Not Available.

    jlhunter2008 - Reply

    The long-sleeved and short-sleeved antenna cables are switched compared to this guide, on my Macbook Pro A1425. Maybe note which order they are in on your machine, since apparently they differ.

    Will Bradley - Reply

    Be very careful with these, I wasn't and two of the cables detached from the connectors!!

    Felix Waller - Reply

    Likewise, the antenna connectors on my Macbook A1425 Late 2012 Retina were not in the order as described in this guide. From the fan side the connectors should be - no sleeve, long sleeve, short sleeve

    smurad - Reply

    As two other users have mentioned, the long-and short-sleeved cables for my late 2012/early 2013 A1425 were not in the order mentioned in the guide. If the laptop is positioned with fan in the upper left corner, the order (left to right) is short sleeve, long sleeve, no sleeve. If it is positioned as it is in the photo with the fan in the lower right, the order (left to right) is no sleeve, long sleeve, short sleeve.

    Katherine Agnew - Reply

    I also found my cables were not as described in the guide. They were as @kagnew described.

    Daniel Revier - Reply

    • Move the antenna cables aside, clear of the AirPort board.

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    • Grab the black pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift the rubber hinge covers up off the right and left display hinges.

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    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets.

    I ended up stripping one of these out and had to use a T6 and some delicate pressure to get it out. Be careful.

    The T6 and a lot of downward pressure ended up doing the trick for me. YMMV

    Daniel Revier - Reply

    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.

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    • Remove the four inner 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.

    There is a retainer for the airport cables that goes beneath the left and center screws.

    maccentric - Reply

    My screws were covered with a thin tape, much like scotch tape. I used tweezers to remove it.

    Daniel Revier - Reply

    • Open the MacBook Pro approximately 110 degrees, and place it sideways on the table, as shown.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

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    • Grip both halves of the device, one in each hand.

    • Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly.

    • Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

38 other people completed this guide.


The screen arrived 1 day ahead of schedule. The "A" level screen was in perfect condition. I replaced the display in about 1 hour using the above instructions, powered up and everything worked perfectly.

Edmundo Costa - Reply

My screen was wobbling, after removing the display, and tightening the screws on the display (after removing the black case at the bottom of the display, if you slide it to the right you can pull the black case of the display) the issue was fixed.

Felix Waller - Reply

Worked like a charm, except for re-connecting the 3 antenna cables to the Airport card - that took some time, they're so tiny...

Sunny - Reply

Excellent guide, walked through the steps and in reverse without any problems except removal of the bottom case. The P5 pentalobe has been such a headache. I ended up using a drill to grind down the heads (which was scary and probably incorrect) after stripping them. Now I'm looking for a way to extract the shafts. However, rest of the process once in was a dream.

christan.offkey - Reply

Excellent guide, helped me to fix my wobbling screen.

Jose Carlos Franco - Reply

Can I replace my macbook pro mid 2012 display with the late 2012 retina display?

elugol - Reply

Great Guide. Easy to follow. You’re awesome Walter :-)

redbjarne - Reply

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