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Introduction

Use this guide to replace the microphone cable.

This guide requires the removal of the heat sink and logic board. Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Reply

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - Reply

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

    Edison - Reply

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Reply

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - Reply

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - Reply

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Reply

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Reply

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Reply

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Reply

  2. The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
    • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

    wrbandllm - Reply

    This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

    addvariety - Reply

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - Reply

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - Reply

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Reply

  3. If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
    • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - Reply

    There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

    Jaime Leonard - Reply

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Reply

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - Reply

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Reply

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - Reply

  5. Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.
    • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Reply

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Reply

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - Reply

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - Reply

  6. Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.
    • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

    • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

    have lost the rubber fann bumper, what part do you have to buy to get this rubber? thank you

    Walid Shraim - Reply

    I changed out the noisy fan around 4-5 months ago. And lately it was back and I was super irritated about the poor quality of the replacement fan. Opening up the case and blowing on the ventilator some compressed air there was no noise whatsoever. I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover/bumper which could vibrate in the air flow channel. So verify that you insert rubber cover clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - Reply

  7. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.

    Ok, might be a dumb question, but where can I get the foam stickers, and are they absolutely necessary after reassembling the heat sink?

    akdarstudios - Reply

  8. Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:
    • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:

    • One 2.7 mm T5 screw (silver)

    • Four T5 screws (black)

    Please be very very careful when reassembling. The four black screws seem to be poor quality and the top snapped off two of them when trying to tighten them. Does anyone know the size of these or compatibility from other models as finding a replacement for them is proving to be almost impossible without shipping them in for a ridiculous price…

    Sophia Grace - Reply

    The single screw on the left hand side on the image above, what type of screw is it? The one on my Macbook is a phillips head one. And for some reason, I couldn’t put it back. Any advise?

    Mahmood Chowdhury - Reply

    These should all be T5 Torx screws. There could be variations in the construction of the laptop compared to this guide, but I’d check out our ID Your MacBook tool to be sure you’re following the correct guide! If you are following the correct guide, be sure all the elements under the screw are properly seated, if they’re not well aligned the screw may not get a good anchor. Best of luck!

    Sam Lionheart -

    I can confirm that on my 2015 13” Macbook Pro, the single screw on the left hand side is a #000 phillips screw.

    Stephen Martin - Reply

  9. Remove the heat sink from the laptop. When reassembling your computer, follow our thermal paste application guide to reapply the thermal paste.
  10. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

    I found this to be the most difficult step. There is a need to get positioned so that you have the leverage to push hard enough at exactly the point shown in the photo without risking slipping and perhaps damaging the CPU nearby

    Tony M - Reply

    Very helpful tip from Tony.

    Thomas Sturgill - Reply

  11. Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way. Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector. Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket. Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector.

    • Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket.

    my cable was glued, had to be pryed up first.

    maccentric - Reply

  13. Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws

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  15. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case.
    • Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case.

    Um, this guide should include steps for applying thermal paste, including instructions to clean the mating surfaces, and pictures showing how much thermal paste to use.

    TheIronGiant - Reply

    Hi @theirongiant, there are generic thermal paste application instructions linked in the introduction “Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.”

    Sam Lionheart -

    Make sure to put the end furthest away from the hinge under the ribbon cable first.

    Then place the hinge side. The screw furthest away from the hinge is partially obscured by the ribbon cable.

    If not placed correctly, ribbon cable damage may result.

    toodarkpark - Reply

  16. Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable bracket to the logic board. Remove the I/O board cable bracket.
    • Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable bracket to the logic board.

    • Remove the I/O board cable bracket.

  17. Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

  18. Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way. To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.
    • Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

    • To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

  19. Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  20. With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

  21. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board.

  22. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    In my 2015 retina MacBook Pro 13”: I saw as shown the piece of black plastic tape. One peels this off as shown, using the same tweezers shown, or something else. The tweezers shown work well to lift the stainless steel clip, again as shown. But I add here that the points of the ribbon cable to grab and pull horizontally back are not optimal, as shown. You do not have to grab the ribbon. There are two points where the wire clip attaches to the connector that work well as places to grab with the tweezers shown. Hope this is clear

    Thomas Sturgill - Reply

  23. Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board. Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  24. Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way. Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way. Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way.
    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way.

  25. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.

  26. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector. Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board. Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector.

    • Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board.

    This tiny connector was difficult for me, and I hope I have not damaged it. Same design as some connectors already removed. A tiny, plastic front latch is lifted up, causing release. You grab the ribbon cable and pull it back horizontally, and to my surprise, this is end is just one tiny flat metal end, no multiple wire connectors that mate on the male end of the ribbon cable.

    Thomas Sturgill - Reply

  27. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

    Also very difficult, because there is so little room to wriggle the ribbon cable, horizontally and backward. The photos do not offer a solution. The points I used are white (at least not black) points on the both, outer edges, and I was able to push there with the tip of the spudger.

    Thomas Sturgill - Reply

  28. Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board. Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.
    • Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

  29. Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the trackpad connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Fold the cable out back over the battery to clear the way for the logic board. Fold the cable out back over the battery to clear the way for the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the trackpad connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Fold the cable out back over the battery to clear the way for the logic board.

  30. Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
    • Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    Il y en a une plus longue que les autres.

    Easy Repair - Reply

  31. Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case. Remove the logic board. Remove the logic board.
    • Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case.

    • Remove the logic board.

    It won't come off; help!

    Zelma Garza - Reply

  32. Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

  33. Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it toward the battery to remove it from the upper case. Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case. Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.
    • Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it toward the battery to remove it from the upper case.

    • Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.

  34. Remove the single 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the case-edge of the battery contact board.
    • Remove the single 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the case-edge of the battery contact board.

  35. Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the rubber microphone cable cover to detach the adhesive there. Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the rubber microphone cable cover to detach the adhesive there.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the rubber microphone cable cover to detach the adhesive there.

  36. Use the flat end of a spudger to wedge the battery contact board up slightly to allow room to extract the dual microphone assembly. Use the flat end of a spudger to wedge the battery contact board up slightly to allow room to extract the dual microphone assembly.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to wedge the battery contact board up slightly to allow room to extract the dual microphone assembly.

  37. Remove the rubber microphone cover with a set of tweezers Be careful not to snag the cover on the screw post in the case or on the battery contact board. Be careful not to snag the cover on the screw post in the case or on the battery contact board.
    • Remove the rubber microphone cover with a set of tweezers

    • Be careful not to snag the cover on the screw post in the case or on the battery contact board.

  38. Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the connector end of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free that half from the upper case. If the microphone is very resistant to prying, try heating it with an iOpener. Heating it will soften the adhesive and minimize the risk of tearing the cable. If the microphone is very resistant to prying, try heating it with an iOpener. Heating it will soften the adhesive and minimize the risk of tearing the cable.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the connector end of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free that half from the upper case.

    • If the microphone is very resistant to prying, try heating it with an iOpener. Heating it will soften the adhesive and minimize the risk of tearing the cable.

  39. Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case. Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case. Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case.

  40. Pull the dual microphone cable assembly up and toward the logic board recess to remove it from the upper case. Be very careful not to snag the cable on the screw post in the case or the battery contact board.
    • Pull the dual microphone cable assembly up and toward the logic board recess to remove it from the upper case.

    • Be very careful not to snag the cable on the screw post in the case or the battery contact board.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

6 other people completed this guide.

Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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3 Comments

Simply DISABLING the microphones can be done in 3 steps: #1, #2, #25, #26. No need to yank the logic board/fan and all that.

Evan Ralston - Reply

Many thanks for preparing / making this brilliant guide available. The mic in my Macbookpro failed for some reason and, using this guide I replaced it with a refurbished spare and saved myself $$. Every single step has been captured with specific additional detail / imagery where needed. It’s scary working with the tiny connectors but this guide gives you confidence it can be done / you can do it.

Nick Cassidy - Reply

Nick Cassidy,

Where did you find a replacement? I have looked EVERYWHERE and can not find one.

Thanks!

Frank Vinyard -

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