Introduction

Use this guide to replace the Retina display, display glass, and iSight camera assembly.

Image 1/1: Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm Pentalobe screws

For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

Carlos - Reply

Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

hello -

Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

Alex Birkett - Reply

Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

addvariety -

the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

Edison - Reply

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

marketing - Reply

Image 1/1: Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

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Image 1/2: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips. Image 2/2: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
  • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

wrbandllm - Reply

This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

addvariety - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

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Image 1/2: Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, '''not''' the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board. Image 2/2: Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, '''not''' the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

jramsey21 - Reply

I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

salvatorebarbera -

Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

andrehedegaard -

Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

Steve - Reply

Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

Vadim Gribanov -

When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

Ethan Tarquin - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

sebasgaes - Reply

Image 1/3: The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. Image 2/3: The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. Image 3/3: The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.
  • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

  • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

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Image 1/3: The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly: Image 2/3: Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket. Image 3/3: The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board.

  • The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:

    • Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.

    • The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.

    • The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.

I struggled with reconnecting these, and in the process accidentally ripped the connector away from the wire. Is there anything I can do to reattached it?

Vanessa schroll - Reply

This is most difficult and time consuming portion of this entire procedure. Make sure to lift the connectors straight up - not to damage them. The reconnection of the contacts may take several tries. USE CARE AND BE PATIENT! You will eventually get them to connect.

Darius - Reply

does anyone have advice on what is the best tool to use for reconnecting? this is definitely the hardest step to reassembly

M N - Reply

When reassembling, I used tweezers to line them up and the spudger to push them down.

Joshua Johnson - Reply

everything else was easy... I still haven't managed to figure this step out... good luck in your repair

M N - Reply

I got it! line the wire up; push the top part of the metal and give it firm pressure; they should snap in and connect

M N - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing.

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Image 1/3: During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab. Image 2/3: During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab. Image 3/3: During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab.
  • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab.

This is pulled straight out to the side of the Macbook, not up.

nmackaron - Reply

Thanks for adding this comment !

jrbhome - Reply

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the two 4.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets on either side of the Macbook.

I found these to be very tight and wasnt able to move them with the ifixt screwdriver kit, i had to get a t-handle torx 9 bit to move them

harveyhalfpint - Reply

Yes they were tight but I managed to shift them with the iFixit screwdriver set

Steven Fillingham - Reply

This is 1 screw on each side (not 2 on each side). They are circled in red.

nmackaron - Reply

Image 1/3: During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook. Image 2/3: During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook. Image 3/3: During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.

  • During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook.

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Image 1/2: Some models may use T9 Torx screws rather than T8. Image 2/2: Some models may use T9 Torx screws rather than T8.
  • Remove the four outer 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.

    • Some models may use T9 Torx screws rather than T8.

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Image 1/2: While holding the display with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the upper display bracket. Image 2/2: Be sure the display and upper case are balanced and will not fall, potentially damaging each component.
  • Open the MacBook Pro a little wider than 90 degrees, and place it on end on the table, as shown.

  • While holding the display with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

  • Be sure the display and upper case are balanced and will not fall, potentially damaging each component.

  • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

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Image 1/3: Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case. Image 2/3: Pull the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught. Image 3/3: Pull the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
  • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly clockwise, toward the top of the display, so the display brackets clear the edge of the upper case.

  • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

  • Pull the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

When replacing the display assembly with a new one, the new hinges may be very hard to move into the 90 degree position. We found it helpful to loop a paperclip into the screw hole of the hinge to facilitate pulling open the hinge.

Eric - Reply

Yes also found the hinges to be extremely tight, could not move them with from their initial position with fingers, ended up using a pair of pliers to rotate them enough to get fingers under them

Steven Fillingham - Reply

Are there any cheaper replacement screens? If so I need to know. My parents still haven't found out and I don't make a ton of money...

Haley Hildreth - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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13 Comments

Just did this for my wife. Awesome! Thank you!

Josh Way - Reply

Just complete this over lunch and it was cake - no pun. Follow the instructions and you'll be back to new in about 30 minutes. The toughest part is getting all those little screws out, so be patient and just know it's worth the squeeze. Take care, AZ

Advisor King - Reply

Is display assembly for Late 2013/Mid 2014 compatible with this model?

Payton James - Reply

Hi, I have same question, and I think its not fully compatible, I tried to put 2014 display on 2015 and its have issue with backlight at startup, for example if you press "ALT" at startup to chose startup disk, screen remains all the time dark only with flash light you can see its working and if you chose disk and only after some 5 seconds backlight will turn on, if I put old original broken display but with working backlight it will turn on backlight straight with the "chime" and yes with new 2014 display its not lighting up straight after chime only after some 5 seconds or so, but after that works fine.

artc -

Hi, last night i was watching a movie in my MBP E2015, and out of nothing, gave me "the gift" of a black screen... i tried everything i found in forums, reset SMC PRAM/NRAM, safe mode, force reboot, well, you name it, i tried it with no luck... i opened the MB and re-connected the display cable to what see if something happens, and nothing... i can only see the contents of the screen when using HDMI on a tv (i also can see stuff in the screen when pointing a flashlight in the dark screen, that makes me think its fixable) should i start thinking of replacing the whole display? any suggestion would be appreciated, thanks!

DanielD

Daniel Dugarte - Reply

Hi Daniel,

I am having the same problem, did you find a solution yet?

Thanks.

Jaymes Milner -

That usually means that the backlight on your display has broken, so the 'screen' part is still receiving an input from the computer, but the light behind it that makes the screen bright enough for you to see it, has broken. So, either it is a loose connection for the backlight, or the whole backlight is dead. If the latter is true, the whole display component must be replaced.

Dominic Rogers -

How skilled do you have to be to do this repair?

Anay Bhakat - Reply

It does say moderate difficulty, however in all honesty it's pretty easy if you know how to go slow, keep track of screws, and not force anything. Of course, helps to have experience inside the MacBook to know your way around, too, but I'd say that's probably not necessary :)

Nathanael Bunge -

Is the screen or displays connection to the graphics the same as the 2015 13" Macbook Air?

Nate - Reply

I think the answer is a firm NO but is it possible to replace a cracked early 2015 MBP retina screen with a late 2011 non-retina screen? Thanks!

Jacob Kaucher - Reply

I had two machines, one that wouldn't power on but the screen was fine, and one that had a cracked screen but booted up fine. Tried swapping the displays and couldn't get the good unit to power on at all. Tried swapping back to the broken display, and still can't get the unit to power on. Now I've got two machines that won't power on. Anyone need a couple paperweights? ;-)

Nathan Beranger - Reply

Just used these instructions to replace my screen and it went perfect. Couldn't be happier.

Derik Hammes - Reply

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