Introduction

Use this guide to replace the solid-state drive.

  • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

Rulle Boer - Reply

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

budpegasus - Reply

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison - Reply

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

bwgvanderveer - Reply

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

ola m - Reply

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

andrew - Reply

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

Larry Smith - Reply

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

ilyabuhov - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the lower case and set it aside.
  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

Jeannie Crowley - Reply

Image 1/2: Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board. Image 2/2: Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.
  • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

  • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

  • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

I'm using a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the SSD retaining screw but it's simply not working, the screwdriver seems slightly too big and I even tried plyers to grab the ends of the screw and turn it but that didn't budge. Are the screws super tight or something? I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong

smokey9112filmz2 - Reply

I would also like to know that, i have the same problem tried using a standard T5 Torx and the Pentalobe P5 screwdriver, but the both dont work/fit

facebookvincent -

I opened mine with a T-6.

airshack - Reply

Image 1/2: Don't lift the SSD more than half an inch—doing so may damage the SSD or its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.
  • Gently lift the end of the SSD about half an inch and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Don't lift the SSD more than half an inch—doing so may damage the SSD or its socket on the logic board.

  • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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15 Comments

May I upgrade it to a 256 GB Drive?

Ray - Reply

Where can I find the 256GB SSD to upgrade my 128GB macbook air (mid 2013)?

Josh - Reply

I'm also looking for a 256HB SSD because 128GB isn't enough?

rhattan503 -

At the moment, the only source for this part is on eBay, at UpgradeMonkey shop (UK)

Link : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/NEW-haswell-MacBo...

It's high priced, but I didn't find anywhere else.

Regards.

JMM -

http://www.alelua.com/es/31-almacenamien... SDD for MacBook Air 11" and 13" (Mid 2013/Early 2014) 256 GB Drive

alelua -

any idea where to get a replacement t5 2.9mm screw for the SSD...I dropped mine and cannot locate it anywhere.

Clark Adams - Reply

If you flip back and forth between the pictures in step 5 you can clearly see that the SSD is suppose to be slid horizontally out of the socket. That's really important information. Unfortunately, the same can't be said for the pictures in step 4, which would indicate you are to pull up on the battery connect, which would of course break it. Yes, there's a note not to do this, but this really is important information and I'd love to see it conveyed the way it was in step 5. I'm commenting on this more as a general ifixit comment as I don't even own a MBA, but was just curious about the procedure.

spatlese44 - Reply

Hi I like put 1 Tera SSD Drive inside my MBA 13'' mid 2013

At time I have 512Go

where I can Buy that SSD Drive

Thanks

JOD

JOD - Reply

Did you find out about this?

carlos -

Just bought one of these and I can't remove the SSD from the MacBook Air 13" (Mid). Same as others have said; it looks like the torx screw is smaller than stated. :(

1 TB SSD OtherWorldComputer/MacSales.com

https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20...

yieunjae -

A T4 screw bit worked for me. I was afraid I damaged the screw from the T5 screwdriver provided by the SSD kit. *phew*

yieunjae -

I just replaced the PCI-e SSD in my MacBook Air mid-2013 with the faster 2015 MacBook Pro SSD and it works great. I followed this Guide and it made the replacement a snap, less than 15 minutes - thanks!

My MBAir had the original CTO 256GB Samsung Model MV-JPU256T/0A2 SSD, the used replacement is a Samsung 512GB, Model MV-JVP5120/0A4 from a 2015 MBP Retina. The MBAir now sees the 512GB as an original Apple part, because it is.

I did a Black Magic Disk Speed Test before and after the install, the Write/Read speed of the 2013 256GB SSD was W=661/R=718, the newer 512GB SSD test was W=1322/R1439. This upgrade doubles the storage capacity at almost twice the Write/Read speeds, a very good upgrade overall.

Note: The 256GB SSD is 3.3v @ 2.5A, the newer/faster 512GB SSD is 3.3v @ 3.2A. so I expect battery life to be a little less and heat could be a tiny bit more, I don't do gaming or video editing on this MBA so the effects should not be noticeable.

David Kuebler - Reply

Worked great with a 480GB SSD in the 2014 MacBook Air! Use a T6 to get the SSD out of the Mac though.

airshack - Reply

Is there any adapter to use these PCIe SSD-drives like an ordinary SATA-drive in another computer?

Albert Einstein - Reply

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