Introduction

Use this guide to replace the microphone.

  • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

Rulle Boer - Reply

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

budpegasus - Reply

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison - Reply

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

bwgvanderveer - Reply

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

ola m - Reply

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

andrew - Reply

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

Larry Smith - Reply

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

ilyabuhov - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the lower case and set it aside.
  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

Jeannie Crowley - Reply

Image 1/2: Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it. Image 2/2: Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.
  • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

  • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws
  • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

When going in reverse, it's easier to do step 3 before 4.

John Heffernan - Reply

Image 1/1: Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
  • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

  • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: Pry up from beneath the wires.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

How can I order that ribbon cable that goes over the fan housing?

Chris Maki - Reply

Image 1/3: Remove the left speaker from the upper case. Image 2/3: Remove the left speaker from the upper case. Image 3/3: Remove the left speaker from the upper case.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the left speaker from the upper case.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: You do not need to remove the I/O board cable, simply bend it out of the way. Image 2/2: Carefully peel, but do not remove, the I/O board cable off the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

  • You do not need to remove the I/O board cable, simply bend it out of the way.

  • Carefully peel, but do not remove, the I/O board cable off the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/3: Carefully push the microphone ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the I/O board. Image 3/3: Carefully push the microphone ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the I/O board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Carefully push the microphone ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the I/O board.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Remove the microphone from the upper case. Image 2/3: Remove the microphone from the upper case. Image 3/3: Remove the microphone from the upper case.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the left side of the upper case.

  • Remove the microphone from the upper case.

i want this product where can find it ?

the Microphone

Waseem Rifai - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Team

iFixit Member of iFixit

Community

126 Members

5,892 Guides authored

0 Comments

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 0

Past 7 Days: 17

Past 30 Days: 48

All Time: 3,457