MacBook Air 13" Mid 2012 Battery Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace a dead battery in your MacBook Air 13" Mid 2012.

Use this guide to replace a worn-out battery.

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 9 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

  • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

  • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Air 13" Mid 2012 device page.

Required Tools

T5 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

My Mid 2012 doesn't have any plastic on the battery connector. Near to impossible to remove it.

marcus, · Reply

Worked flawlessly on my MBA. Installed in 5 minutes. Coconut Battery now reports 6801 mAh on a design capacity of 6700 mah. That's an improvement as my old battery was clocking a meager 61% of design capacity (i.e., 4087) after 371 cycles.

Easy. Perfect replacement.

ldm, · Reply

I tried to opened it and I failed. The screw doesn't work well. Worst idea ever!

etiennelafrance7, · Reply

Very easy. I bought the "A-Stock" battery. It came at a max charge of 6300mAh (max of 6700) -- decent. But within 2 weeks dropped down to a max of around 4,000 mAh. I'm thinking that I should have spent the extra $10 and bought the new battery. (I am using the Coconut Battery App.)

gvr4, · Reply

Update -- after about a month with the A-Stock battery, I got the "Service Battery" warning, but it did not stay -- disappeared after a while. Strange behavior. I would not recommend buying anything but a new battery based on this experience.

gvr4, · Reply

Guide was perfect. Saw several other guides mention T5 screws for back cover. This guide was correct with the 5-point Pentalobes. Got the iFixIt 54-bit driver set. Worked perfectly. Bit disappointed that CoconutBattery reports the battery is capable of 98% charge (6583/6700mAh) but I can live with that vs. the 48% on old battery. Thanks for the guide and parts.

lostvincy, · Reply

The guide was great, the supplied screwdrivers worked, everything was where it was supposed to be (e.g. the plastic handle on the battery connector) - I was done in 10 minutes. Everything as advertised.

My batter was new, 6812 mAh.

Jan, · Reply

Straightforward guide, completed in about 20 mins. The new battery reports 6746 mAh. Many thanks.

Matt, · Reply

Thanks for the guide! Worked perfectly and easily.

mathiasklang, · Reply

Great guide.

If you have the correct screwdriver you'll have no problems.

Completed in 8 minutes.

This is one of the easy replacements on a 13" MacBook Air (Mid 2012)

andrew, · Reply

Be gentle when screwing in the replacement battery!!

I used little force but the corner plastic snapped and cracked...

Dennis, · Reply

The screws have been treated with thread-locking compound. The exterior, case screws have been treated with particularly tenacious compound, which means it will take markedly more torque to unscrew them than the proper torque for screwing them in. When loosening and tightening the case screws be sure to have the driver well seated and aligned perpendicular to the head in both planes or you may bung up the heads.

For both interior (battery) screws and exterior (case) screws, don't assume that how hard you needed to twist to loosen them is how hard you should tighten them.

Jeff Morrow, · Reply

Installation was a breeze but now my battery % is on 87% for 4+ hours (where it was on the old battery) and when I unplug MagSafe power shuts off immediately. Any help appreciated.

jeffmorris, · Reply

I replaced my wife's battery with this guide and it was a breeze, it's taking forever to charge though, maybe it's balance charging?

Matt beausoleil, · Reply

Thank you so much for the guide, super easy diy. getting the right screwdriver was quite an adventure but the repair took less than 10 minutes. If the battery works as advertised I will have an almost new macbook to work with.

thanks again.

epi, · Reply

These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

Rulle Boer, · Reply

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

budpegasus, · Reply

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison, · Reply

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