MacBook Air 13" Mid 2012 Battery Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace a dead battery in your MacBook Air 13" Mid 2012.

Use this guide to replace a worn-out battery.

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the following ten screws:

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

  • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

  • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Now that you've finished, share your repair story with others.

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33 Comments

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My Mid 2012 doesn't have any plastic on the battery connector. Near to impossible to remove it.

marcus - Reply

Worked flawlessly on my MBA. Installed in 5 minutes. Coconut Battery now reports 6801 mAh on a design capacity of 6700 mah. That's an improvement as my old battery was clocking a meager 61% of design capacity (i.e., 4087) after 371 cycles.

Easy. Perfect replacement.

ldm - Reply

I tried to opened it and I failed. The screw doesn't work well. Worst idea ever!

etiennelafrance7 - Reply

Very easy. I bought the "A-Stock" battery. It came at a max charge of 6300mAh (max of 6700) -- decent. But within 2 weeks dropped down to a max of around 4,000 mAh. I'm thinking that I should have spent the extra $10 and bought the new battery. (I am using the Coconut Battery App.)

gvr4 - Reply

Update -- after about a month with the A-Stock battery, I got the "Service Battery" warning, but it did not stay -- disappeared after a while. Strange behavior. I would not recommend buying anything but a new battery based on this experience.

gvr4 - Reply

I'm wondering if you may be seeing a calibration issue. Batteries in Apple products can (generally) be recalibrated by draining them as much as possible (e.g. start playing a video or doing something else that will draw a lot of power and prevent it from going to sleep, letting it run until the OS does a battery-empty shutdown) then charge it to 100% without using the computer (e.g. leave the lid closed and the charger attached until the charger's light changes from orange to green.) Maybe repeat the cycle one or two times if you think it will help (although it should only be necessary to do this once.)

It wouldn't surprise me if a new battery needs recalibration after installation.

shamino -

Guide was perfect. Saw several other guides mention T5 screws for back cover. This guide was correct with the 5-point Pentalobes. Got the iFixIt 54-bit driver set. Worked perfectly. Bit disappointed that CoconutBattery reports the battery is capable of 98% charge (6583/6700mAh) but I can live with that vs. the 48% on old battery. Thanks for the guide and parts.

lostvincy - Reply

The guide was great, the supplied screwdrivers worked, everything was where it was supposed to be (e.g. the plastic handle on the battery connector) - I was done in 10 minutes. Everything as advertised.

My batter was new, 6812 mAh.

Jan - Reply

Straightforward guide, completed in about 20 mins. The new battery reports 6746 mAh. Many thanks.

Matt - Reply

Thanks for the guide! Worked perfectly and easily.

mathiasklang - Reply

Great guide.

If you have the correct screwdriver you'll have no problems.

Completed in 8 minutes.

This is one of the easy replacements on a 13" MacBook Air (Mid 2012)

andrew - Reply

Be gentle when screwing in the replacement battery!!

I used little force but the corner plastic snapped and cracked...

Dennis - Reply

The screws have been treated with thread-locking compound. The exterior, case screws have been treated with particularly tenacious compound, which means it will take markedly more torque to unscrew them than the proper torque for screwing them in. When loosening and tightening the case screws be sure to have the driver well seated and aligned perpendicular to the head in both planes or you may bung up the heads.

For both interior (battery) screws and exterior (case) screws, don't assume that how hard you needed to twist to loosen them is how hard you should tighten them.

Jeff Morrow - Reply

Installation was a breeze but now my battery % is on 87% for 4+ hours (where it was on the old battery) and when I unplug MagSafe power shuts off immediately. Any help appreciated.

jeffmorris - Reply

I replaced my wife's battery with this guide and it was a breeze, it's taking forever to charge though, maybe it's balance charging?

Matt beausoleil - Reply

Thank you so much for the guide, super easy diy. getting the right screwdriver was quite an adventure but the repair took less than 10 minutes. If the battery works as advertised I will have an almost new macbook to work with.

thanks again.

epi - Reply

Hello! I did this for my MacBook Air 13" mid 2012 and everything's fine. I'm charging it right know to the fullest. It's my first time that I open a MacBook and this guide worked perfect for it. I hope it keeps this way. Greetings from Mexico and keep the awesome work!

Oscar - Reply

I have successfully replaced my MBA Mid2012 battery.

The instructions worked like charm... Kudos.....

Keep up the good work and much appreciated.

I ordered the battery from Amazon :-http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012BZM...

Gaurav Sood - Reply

I had dropped my Mac Air on a tile floor and it would only boot up when plugged in. If the magnetic connector was jiggled the computer would shut down. Not fun! I taped the connector to the computer but even so, it would easily shut down unless handled like a case of eggs. Bought the pentalobe screwdriver from Ifixit. Had the back off in a flash. Gave the plastic tab on the battery connector a little push. Felt it click back into place. Replaced the back. Battery now working again. Thanks! Saved a trip to the Apple Store and probably a lot of cash.

michael - Reply

Worked flawlessly on a Mid-2012 MBA -- my old battery was almost completely bailed out, followed this guide with a new battery and the P5 + T5 screwdrivers (both ordered from here) and had everything up and running in under 15 minutes. Much obliged!

Rabi Alam - Reply

As easy as pie, now my wife Macbook Air have new battery with cycle = 0 :).

Sang Le - Reply

Cheers to those who put this tutorial up. Followed the steps, worked perfectly!

Point to note:

The very end of these pentalobe screwdrivers can be very thin and sometimes a weak/cheap metal is used to make them.

IF you're pentalobe screwdriver "strips" at the head (NOT the screw itself) as you're taking out the screws, don't worry, give the very tip (straight-on mind-you) a quick pass in front of a grinder or hasp to in order to remove the rounded off edges and make it flat again!

Worked like a charm for me.

Again thanks for the advice!

M

matschraeder - Reply

Fast delivery of tools and replacement battery, easy installation, perfect guide! Thanks a lot, MacBook Air is alive again, yippiieeeh!

Benjamin Becker - Reply

These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

Rulle Boer - Reply

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

budpegasus - Reply

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison - Reply

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

bwgvanderveer - Reply

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

ola m - Reply

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

andrew - Reply

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

Larry Smith - Reply

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

ilyabuhov - Reply

The guide says: "Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board", but the battery model that I was replacing did not have a clear plastic pull tab at all...

The battery model shown in this guide is: A1405

I was installing battery model: A1406

A1406 has the following connector:

Top:

http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

Bottom:

http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

By looking at the bottom of the new battery I saw how it could be removed. Simply by a gentle upward movement. I very, very carefully nudged it a bit upwards using a screwdriver on the left and right side, as shown here:

http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

It came out fairly easy, luckily!

(And yes, I also cleaned up this MacBook before closing it again. It was a bit hairy in a literal way. Electronics and pets is not the best combination. ;-) )

This was a great guide!

wil - Reply

I think you may have been reading the wrong guide by mistake.

Looking at the various MacBook Air battery replacement guides, all of the 13" models show the connector depicted in this guide. All of the 11" models (e.g. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2012 Battery Replacement) show a connector like the one in your photos.

shamino -