Introduction

Use this guide to replace your Air's I/O board which houses the MagSafe DC-in port, a USB socket, and the headphone jack.

  • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

Rulle Boer - Reply

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

budpegasus - Reply

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison - Reply

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

bwgvanderveer - Reply

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

ola m - Reply

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

andrew - Reply

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

Larry Smith - Reply

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

ilyabuhov - Reply

Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

anne uhlir - Reply

im looking for a Logic Board for a

Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

Any help is appreciated.

Jamie Comstock - Reply

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

Jeannie Crowley - Reply

As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.
  • As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board.

  • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

  • Be sure to pull the connector horizontally toward the battery, and not straight up from the Air, or you may damage the socket on the logic board.

The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

mjmorawski - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.

Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

Ben - Reply

Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.
  • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.

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The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
  • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

  • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

  • Remove the I/O board cable.

This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

yurkennis - Reply

Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

David Robillard - Reply

Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

ezequielaceto - Reply

It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

Goth70 Fuzed - Reply

If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

Lester Newsom - Reply

I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

David Robillard - Reply

Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
  • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

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Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
  • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.
  • Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.

Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

kennyavis81 - Reply

On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

paul deacon - Reply

The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

peteragries - Reply

This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

leesparey - Reply

Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

Allen - Reply

Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

jerry bennett - Reply

Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

Add Comment

Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the corner of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.
  • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the corner of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.

  • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

Mine was very reluctant... couldn't get any purchase with a spudger, had to use flat tweezers to get enough grip on the cable. Exerted slowly increasing pull, but when it came out, it broke loose suddenly.

Allen - Reply

My Macbook Air (2013) didn't have this cable.

Phillip Remaker - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

  • De-route the left speaker cable from its retainer on the I/O board.

On re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

Anyone know what this means.

Daniel Thomas - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

Be very careful: it is quite easy to accidentally pry the whole cable connector from the I/O board.

Dallas Guy - Reply

What do you do if this happens? Buy a whole new I/O board?

adamwitz -

I agree, I found this to be the only critical step of the entire disassembly procedure: I snapped the microphone connector socket off the board despite applying a relatively gentle pull on the cables. Fortunately I did this on a dead MBair from which I wanted to get the display, but now I'm afraid of doing the same damage while installing the display on the target MBair!

Any tricks/tips would be most welcome.

Lorenzo

Lorenzo Cangiano - Reply

Following up on my previous post I'd like to share how I eventually circumvented the risk of snapping the microphone connector socket on the I/O board. Instead of attempting to disconnect the mic (as suggested in this guide, step 14), I did the following: a. remove the battery, b. detach the right speaker, c. detach the microphone from the outer case (for steps b and c I followed the iFixit guide on how to replace a MacbookAir microphone). The advantage is that the microphone can now remain safely connected to the I/O board. Of course when reassembling the mac one has to reverse these extra steps (the microphone can be easily reattached to the case as it has a sticky side). I would strongly advise iFixit to revise this guide accordingly!

Lorenzo Cangiano -

I don't think this step is necessary if you aren't seeking to fully remove the I/O board - if you are seeking only to remove the heatsink, you can skip this step, leave this delicate cable attached, then in the next couple steps you'll end up "flipping" the board out of the way, while leaving this cable connected.

coopermarcus - Reply

Maybe I just lucked out but removing the mic cable was about the same effort as the left speaker cable. I wasn't ready to try Lorenzo's workaround above without a photo guide, so took my chances. Your mileage may vary.

Allen - Reply

Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
  • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

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Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
  • Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

When following these instructions in reverse, and reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to carefully check and adjust the alignment of the ports on the board with the holes in the case - it is especially obvious if the headphone port is mis-aligned with the case.

coopermarcus - Reply

Finish Line

57 other people completed this guide.

17 Comments

just replaced i/o board,quick and easy,great guide

railroads12345 - Reply

My I/O board USB socket was dead with a bent pin. Replaced it following this guide, everything went perfectly, and I've got working USB again.

Diagnosis procedure: shine a flashlight into your suspect USB socket. If you can see a pin against the back of the socket, there's your problem.

ephraim - Reply

so easy ,tks ifixit

jbejarano79 - Reply

Step 15: had I read all the comments, I would have avoided breaking the microphone connector (thank you Lorenzo Cangiano all the same!). But the guide should have a red exclamation point warning about not prying on the front of this connector when it doesn't respond easily to prying under the cables. It is not obvious that one should not be able to pry on all sides, and the guide only has an "Information" note for this.

jsheats - Reply

Just followed this guide to replace a burnt out/corroded power socket. I bought the part from this site. Now the power is fixed, but the USB socket does not seem to mount anything, as in it doesn't work. I have not tested the headphone port. An interesting observation: the first time I turned my macbook back on using battery power it said battery not available. I turned it off and on again and this resolved the issue.

Does anyone have any ideas about the USB port not working? Have I bought a faulty I/O board from IFixit?

Emmanuel Malikides - Reply

Today repaired my MacBook Air mid 2011. The charger and USB is working fine but my MacBook Air says their is no audio hardware. So I have no audio input or output from my MacBook Air it self anymore. Even if I plug in my airpods nothing happens. Airplay and bluetooth audio works fine.

I checked the installation of the I/O board and it is installed in the right way. After that I did a Safe mode boot, PRAM reset, SMC reset, a new OS instal and a complete disk repair. Nothing seems to help. So, the only left possibility is a hardware failure of the I/O board?

isellis - Reply

Did you buy the board from ifixit? I have the same issue regarding audio (no audio device found), in addition to the usb port not working.

Emmanuel Malikides - Reply

Hello guys! My MBAir doesn't charge anymore. I replaced the charger and it only lasted a while before stopping again to charge.

I want to replace the MagSafe module, buying it from the site, but I need to be sure that the other components (USB and mic) ar going to work fine.

Can anyone who bought the same part from here confirm anything is going to be fine? I read some comments that didn't convince me.

Waiting for your feedbacks, thank you very much for any help.

Alfredo De Santis - Reply

If any one could tell me If this part "I/O Board" is new or in used condtion ???

irfan yousaf - Reply

Used. There is no "new" part to sell in any site. Maybe just Apple has new parts to sell (for a expensive price, of course).

Alexandre Formagio - Reply

I had the same "no audio" (mic) issue with an IO board (purchased from ifixit also, p/n 5000826, IF 188-069-1), I took my MB to apple service and they installed an original IO board and got audio back.

pboix - Reply

The guide is 100% ok, just it seem that there was some "issue" with the IO board, since I am abroad it was easier for me to find another solution locally since I needed to solve the issue and was not able to wait for the whole process of claim a warranty on the board.

pboix - Reply

Worked perfect! glad to have my computer back and running. I ordered the i/o board part along with the basic repair kit from iFixIt, and both the part and kit were great quality. Thanks!

jad - Reply

Can anyone confirm if the one from 2013 A1466 (usb3.0) will work in A1369 2011?? They look identical

Christopher Lord - Reply

Everything seemed t go well. The camera and USB port are fine. But on re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

Anyone know what this means?

Daniel Thomas - Reply

Replacing this part resurrected my 2011 13” MacBook Air. However, no internal speakers when finished. Headphones, USB, and magsafe all work, just no internal speakers. Go the part from iFixit. Glad my machine is usable again, but very disappointed that I can’t hear any audio.

Phillip Coffman - Reply

is this guide good for macair 11 inch early 2014 and 2015??

isabel - Reply

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