Introduction

Rock too hard? Use this guide to replace a blown-out left speaker.

  • Shut down and close your computer. Lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

When you say:

Remove the following ten screws:

Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.

Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?

Nerdily yours,

Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)

larryleveen - Reply

The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).

Michael Welham -

I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.

Allen - Reply

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board. Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally contact its socket.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally contact its socket.

I performed this on my MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2011), model A1370. Rather than using the spudger to un-attach the batter connector, I gripped either side with my fingers as the second photographs indicated, and gently pry/wiggled it up and out by initially pinching into the side gap with my finger nails. The reason I did it this way is that the spudger works by leverage and I was afraid to rest it against the components surrounding the connector. The photos and instructions are excellent and illustrate the maneuver perfectly.

Allen - Reply

Hello there... In my case by battery exploded.... Can I still try to change it using these instructions?

Fabio Matos - Reply

The instruction to lift the edges of battery connector before disconnecting is certainly not clear. In my case, the cconnector pins came off the board with the battery, requiring further costly repairs. I would suggest that this instruction be more specific and include a caution.

Deirdre Rogan - Reply

It worked fine for me, but as others mentioned, you need to be careful to remove the battery connector from the motherboard connector and not accidentally remove the motherboard connector from the motherboard itself.

Additionally, on reassembly, I found that quit a bit of pressure was needed to get the new battery's connector to snap in place. More than I was comfortable applying, but it was necessary and it worked without a problem.

shamino - Reply

Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
  • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws

In my case the screw points connecting the old battery the case had fractured or broken. The broken bits needed to be cleaned out of the case before installing the replacement battery. Didn't want any loose fragments rattling about inside.

Allen - Reply

When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the six exposed lithium polymer cells.
  • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the six exposed lithium polymer cells.

  • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

What if new battery comes with what looks like plastic around the 6 cells?

Allison - Reply

I'm having trouble reconnecting the pins to the new battery cable. Any suggestions?

Deirdre Rogan - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

  • Bend the cable away from the I/O board.

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Use the tip of a spudger to de-route the left speaker cable from the notch cut into the edge of the I/O board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to de-route the left speaker cable from the notch cut into the edge of the I/O board.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

  • Make sure to pry upward from beneath the wires.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case. Only pry up on the speaker from the areas of bare aluminum on the upper case. Prying up from the keyboard area may damage the keyboard and the speaker itself.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  • Only pry up on the speaker from the areas of bare aluminum on the upper case. Prying up from the keyboard area may damage the keyboard and the speaker itself.

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Remove the left speaker from the upper case.
  • Remove the left speaker from the upper case.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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