Mac Mini Mid 2010 Logic Board Replacement

Completely replace your Mac Mini Mid 2010's logic board.

Completely replacing the logic board requires removal of the logic board itself as well as all components attached to it.

Sections

Edit Step 1 Bottom Cover  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Bottom Cover  ¶ 

  • Place your thumbs in the depressions cut into the bottom cover.

  • Rotate the bottom cover counter-clockwise until the white dot painted on the bottom cover is aligned with the ring inscribed on the outer case.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Tilt the mini enough to allow the bottom cover to fall away from the outer case.

  • Remove the bottom cover and set it aside.

Edit Step 3 Fan  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 Fan  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 11.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the fan to the logic board near the antenna plate.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Lift the ear of the fan nearest the RAM up off the standoff secured to the outer case.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Lift the fan out of the mini for enough clearance to access its connector.

  • Carefully pull the fan cables upward to lift the fan connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Remove the fan.

Edit Step 6 Cowling  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6 Cowling  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 3.5 mm T6 Torx screw securing the cowling to the heat sink.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Lift the cowling from the end nearest the antenna plate.

  • Rotate the cowling away from the outer case and remove it from the mini.

Edit Step 8 Antenna Plate  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8 Antenna Plate  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the antenna plate to the mini:

    • Two 6.6 mm T8 Torx screws

    • Two 5.0 mm T8 Torx or 2.0 mm Hex screws (either will work)

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the antenna plate from the end closest to the RAM.

  • Carefully pull the antenna plate straight away from the circular rim of the outer case.

  • Do not remove the antenna plate yet. It is still attached to the AirPort/ Bluetooth board.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully pry the antenna connector up off the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the antenna plate from the mini.

Edit Step 12 Logic Board  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three screws:

    • One 5.0 mm T8 Torx or 2.0 mm Hex screw (either will work)

    • One 16.2 mm T6 Torx screw

    • One 26 mm T6 Torx standoff

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Carefully pull the wires for both hard drive thermal sensors upward to lift their connectors up and out of the sockets on the logic board.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both the hard drive and optical drive connectors up out of their sockets on the logic board.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • To disconnect the optical drive thermal sensor, pinch its cables between your thumb and a spudger and pry the spudger upward to lift the connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the IR sensor connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • To remove the logic board, two cylindrical rods must be inserted into the holes highlighted in red. Inserting instruments into any logic board holes other than the ones highlighted in red may destroy the logic board.

  • Insert a Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool into the two holes highlighted in red. Be sure it makes contact with the outer case below the logic board before proceeding.

  • If you don't have a Logic Board Removal Tool handy, you can use two tools having a maximum diameter of 2.5 mm instead. Just insert one into each of the highlighted holes.

  • Carefully pull the tool toward the I/O board. The logic board and I/O board assembly should slightly slide out of the outer case.

  • Cease prying when the I/O board is visibly separated from the outer case. Remove the Mac Mini Logic Board Removal tool.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Simultaneously push the two plastic clips on the far left and right sides of the I/O board toward the middle of the I/O board and pull the I/O board away from the outer case.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Pull the I/O board/logic board assembly out of the outer case enough to access the power connector.

  • Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the power cable from the logic board.

  • Pull the power cable connector toward the optical drive opening.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Carefully slide the logic board assembly out of the mini, minding any cables that may get caught.

Edit Step 21 Speaker  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21 Speaker  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws securing the speaker to the logic board assembly:

    • One 4.2 mm T6 Torx

    • One 3.7 mm T6 Torx

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the speaker wires upward to lift the speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 23 I/O Bezel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23 I/O Bezel  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the antenna connectors up off the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • De-route both antenna cables from the clips securing them to the top side of the logic board.

  • Be careful when removing the cables from their retaining clips, as the thin metal contacts crimped to the antenna cables can be easily torn off. If any contacts become separated from the antenna cables, use a pair of pliers to gently crimp them back into place.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.6 mm T6 Torx screw securing the I/O bezel to the logic board near the RAM.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Carefully un-clip the antenna from the logic board near the PRAM battery.

  • Gently de-route the antenna cable through the hole in the logic board.

  • De-route the antenna cable from the clips on the logic board near the I/O bezel.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Lift the power button cables upward to gently pull the power button cable up and out of its connector on the logic board.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 2.6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the I/O bezel to the logic board.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Pull the I/O bezel away from the logic board, minding any cables that may get caught.

  • Try not to handle the small steel EMI fingers on the logic board and I/O bezel, as oils from your fingers may cause interference issues. Before installing the logic board assembly, clean the EMI fingers to remove any oils transferred during the removal process.

Edit Step 30 Logic Board  ¶ 

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Edit Step 30 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully pry the PRAM battery up and out of its holder on the logic board.

  • Remove the PRAM battery and set it aside.

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Release the tabs on each side of the RAM chip by simultaneously pushing each tab away from the RAM.

  • These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to "pop" up.

  • After the RAM chip has popped up, pull it straight out of its socket.

  • Repeat this process if a second RAM chip is installed.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable connector up off the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 2.6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board to the logic board.

  • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board and set it aside.

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable up off the logic board.

  • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable.

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

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Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 5 mm T6 Torx standoff from the heat sink.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

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Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • To disconnect the heat sink thermal sensor, pinch its cables between your thumb and a spudger and pry the spudger upward to lift the connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

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Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 8.5 mm T8 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

  • Keep track of the springs held beneath each of the heat sink screws.

Edit Step 38  ¶ 

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Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the heat sink off the logic board, minding the thermal sensor cable that may get caught.

  • If the heat sink appears to be stuck to the logic board after removing all six screws, it may be helpful to use a spudger to separate the two components.

  • If you need to mount the heat sink back onto the logic board, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the Mac Mini Mid 2010 device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$4.95 · 18 In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 50+ In stock

Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

I'm confused, in step 11 the antenna plate is removed from the case, then in step 12 the bare logic board is out. What happened to the rest of the removal process?

barmour04, · Reply

Hey sorry about that, the guide was missing a prerequisite. I went through and made sure all the guides are OK. It should be fixed now. Good catch!

Andrew Bookholt,

There are actually 3 T6 screws securing the fan. The third screw is out of the screenshot, just below the RAM.

inferno10, · Reply

Nope, that third screw is actually just a post that the rubber grommet attached to the fan body slips over. Step 4 shows how the fan comes off of it. When you go to remove the fan, you simply remove the two screws closest to the antenna plate and then lift the fan off this post. The screw you are talking about is removed in Step 14 and does not need to be removed until this point.

Andrew Bookholt,

Successful install completed, but I had some trouble getting the fan reinstalled. When I removed the fan from the "Step 14" post, the rubber piece stayed on the post. When attempting to reinstall the fan, it was impossible to get the loop to go back over that rubber piece. So, I had to remove the post (again), and with the help of the spudger and some patience, worked it through. Then installed the fan using the 2 screws and the post. I think it may have saved some time and trouble if I just removed all 3 in the first place, leaving the post in the fan.

meag,

On mine I needed to remove the 26 mm T6 Torx standoff during this step rather than step 12

philipashlock, · Reply

Whats a standoff? Is that a screw?

brzmn, · Reply

A standoff is like a screw extender. It screws into a screw-hole, and its head has a screw hole on it. When you attach something to a standoff, it makes that something stand off the original screw-hole surface.

cityzen,

Pulling on the ear didn't do anything, so I removed the whole screw at this step. The screw stayed fixed on the fan and I didn't have to remove it at the step where you remove the logic board screws.

Probably I didn't want to use too much force .. but it worked

Alexander Kogler, · Reply

Loosen the fan standoff from the motherboard using a T6 driver.

bobcloninger, · Reply

When I pulled the fan ear off the standoff the rubber grommet stayed on the standoff. That's fine, but it makes it difficult to put the fan ear back on during reassembly. So I just pulled the rubber grommet off the standoff and put it into the hole in the fan ear. Then I was able to push the fan ear onto the standoff with out trouble during reassembly.

dhein, · Reply

I was a bit too rough in unclipping the fan and broke off the connector on the board?

Is my only option to replace the board?

Anthony DeFreitas, · Reply

This is a screw into the head of another screw below it that holds the main board. When I took out the fan, the top screw AND the longer 26 mm screw came out together so when I was putting my mini back together I thought for a moment I had lost a screw.

info, · Reply

The red circled screws are T9 in my Mac mini (not T8).

Sven Harmstorf, · Reply

I have tried several times but I have been unable to get all four holes to line up when replacing the antenna plate. I can get the two closer to the center of the mini just fine but no matter how I align the plate, one of the screws closer to the edge of the mini will be so far out of alignment that I cannot get the screw to go in. I had to leave one screw uninstalled. The plate is not distorted in any way. It is installed the same way it was before I removed, as far as I can tell. I am baffled! Has anyone been through this?

GalvanicMacPro, · Reply

Galvanic, it pops in.

bkbkbk,

I had a really hard time with this. I was able to resolve it though: secure the other three screws first. Then I pushed my precision screwdriver into the hole and levered the wayward tab into position: it wedged in with an audible snap sound! Then I was able to fasten the final screw.

Aaron Vegh,

When I tried to do step 9 and disconnect these connectors, I found that not only the cable/connector but the receptacle tore off the logic board -- momentary panic! This happened to both connectors.

Left on the logic board were two tiny fragile gold pins (per connector). Fortunately they were pretty straight, and upon re-assembly, I was able to gently slot the receptacles back into the tiny pins. Upon reassembly, everything's working fine (no crazy fan noise) so I guess I got lucky...maybe VERY lucky. :)

Thanks iFixIt for a fantastic guide. I've got a replacement drive in there and it's definitely going to extend the life of my Mini for another season.

David Das, · Reply

In my case, the yellow circled standoff already came out with the previously removed fan.

Sven Harmstorf, · Reply

My standoff screw was really tight and my T6 stripped the screw. :( But, because it's effectively just used as a post to stabilise the fan, I ended up using some surgical clamps, grabbing the standoff where the rubber grommet sits, and gently twisted the screw loose. No major damage because that part of the screw isn't really used! Just be careful and gently twist (patience is KEY) to loosen.

alc217, · Reply

The thermal sensor is VERY delicate, hold the connector down with a spudger and lift the cable with some tweezers. Long list of people online who have accidentally removed the connector from the logic board because the solder is insufficient.

anthonypshaw, · Reply

I second the comment about using something, say a small screwdriver, to carefully put some pressure on the connector whilst then prying the cable up.

Simon Martin, · Reply

The removal of the SATA connectors for the hard drive and the optical drive should probably be separated into two steps. It's easy to miss the second one and pull a SATA connector off.

Not confirming that I did it, but I am looking for someone to solder a SATA connector back on. ;)

jrmn, · Reply

These sensors are too fragile in some cases. In my case both the hard drive and optical sensor cables tore off despite all my best efforts. The plastic holding down the cables appears to be too fragile or brittle and simply tears as the cables are pulled away.

nirv, · Reply

Whats the apple part number for these screws?

Brian, · Reply

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