Introduction

Use this guide to replace the hard drive your hard drive only or Fusion Drive Mac Mini Late 2014.

This guide was made with a Fusion Drive Mac Mini. If your Mac Mini only has a hard drive, skip the steps about the PCIe SSD and its connector.

Image 1/1: Pry near, but not right on the screw posts.
  • The bottom cover is clipped onto three screw posts.

  • Pry near, but not right on the screw posts.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use the plastic opening tool to pry the bottom cover up off of the Mac Mini.

I used some wooden toothpicks instead of the opening tool. This worked flawless for me.

mhomscheidt - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Lift and remove the bottom cover.

I taped the "Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool" to the flat part of the antenna plate before sealing everything up again. I mean, where else am I supposed to store it without forgetting where it is? I'm pretty sure it won't cause any problems there.

Richard - Reply

Image 1/1: Three 4.1 mm screws
  • Remove the following TR6 screws from the antenna plate:

    • Three 4.1 mm screws

    • Three 1.9 mm screws

Had a T7 security screw driver [and didn't want to wait to have the T6 version shipped to me], so I gave it a whirl. I lined up the driver with the screw socket, pressed down a bit to make sure the driver would get enough grip, and slowly [but forcefully] rotated the driver and got these screws out. BE CAUTIOUS not to strip the screws. May not work for everyone.

KevCoStudios - Reply

As TR6 screwdrivers were sold out all over Germany and I wanted to exchange the HDD THIS friday, I took a VERY fine dental milling tip (0,8 mm head diameter) for my proxxon and milled away the little dots in the center of the the TR6 screws. After that I could open the case with a regular T6 screwdriver. All went fine, MM is closed again + working like a charm with it's new SSD. NOTE: For this task I used my loupe glasses (3x) ;)

Martin Gerner - Reply

On the whole screw thing. I just used a tiny dremel drill bit and drilled out the security pin. I hate those screws. I don't see the point in locking the them with those. they should have left the screws alone.

That Mac Guy - Reply

That worked for me, thanks for the trick!

Arroba -

great trick!

James Almeida -

I used the T7 very carefully. No problems.

randywardak - Reply

I just had success using standard pliers to remove the longer screw posts, and then I used standard needle nose pliers to press down and grip the tiny screws. Please note that this method may/will cause scrapping of the aluminium cover.

Barrythetech - Reply

Northern Tools sells a set of 13 Torx Security Keys for $28.99 that has the TR6 size.

Gary Craig - Reply

Image 1/2: With the I/O ports facing you, flip the antenna plate to the right to allow access to the antenna cable connector. Image 2/2: With the I/O ports facing you, flip the antenna plate to the right to allow access to the antenna cable connector.
  • Do not completely remove the antenna plate; it is still connected to the Mac Mini by an antenna cable.

  • With the I/O ports facing you, flip the antenna plate to the right to allow access to the antenna cable connector.

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Image 1/1: Be careful not to lose the washer when removing the screw.
  • Remove the single 3.4 mm T6 screw and washer from the antenna cable.

    • Be careful not to lose the washer when removing the screw.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the antenna connector straight up off its socket on the airport card.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Carefully pull the antenna cable out from the gap between the power supply and case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the antenna plate from the Mac Mini.

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Image 1/1: Loosen the 27 mm T6 captive screw.
  • Remove the two 12 mm T6 screws from the fan.

  • Loosen the 27 mm T6 captive screw.

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Image 1/3: '''Do not''' attempt to remove the fan entirely. Image 2/3: Lift the fan straight up to free the captive screw from its hole in the logic board. Image 3/3: Pull the fan away from the SSD until you can easily access the fan connector.
  • The fan connector is trapped under the edge of the fan and cannot be disconnected until the fan is moved.

    • Do not attempt to remove the fan entirely.

  • Lift the fan straight up to free the captive screw from its hole in the logic board.

  • Pull the fan away from the SSD until you can easily access the fan connector.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the fan connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the fan from the Mac Mini.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the 2.6 mm T6 screw securing the SATA cable connector bracket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the SATA cable connector bracket.

This procedure works to add a SATA hard drive/SSD to a PCIe SSD-only Mac Mini using iFixit's Mac Mini Dual Drive Kit. The one thing that's missing from the kit is SATA cable connector bracket (and screw). This is not the end of the world: the cable is a snug fit in the logic board socket, so the bracket is only a safety measure.

Dominic Dunlop - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the SATA cable connector up off of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the IR sensor cable connector by prying it straight up from its socket.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 2.6 mm T6 screws securing the PCIe SSD cable bracket.

Steps 18-20 only apply if you are removing a fusion drive. Otherwise skip to step 21 during removal.

Stephen Reaser - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the PCIe SSD cable bracket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Lift the PCIe SSD connector up off its socket.

Is the PCIe connector present and usable on the mid-range Mac mini? I don't need the ~$300 fusion drive but would like the comfort of knowing that I can add an extra SSD in the future.

Michael Johnson - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 16 mm T6 screw securing the logic board.

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  • To remove the logic board, the two cylindrical rods of the Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool must be inserted into the holes highlighted in red. Inserting instruments into any logic board holes other than the ones highlighted in red may destroy the logic board.

  • Insert the Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool into the two holes highlighted in red. Be sure the rods make contact with the case under the logic board before proceeding.

Instead of the removal tool it is also possible to use two metal pins with 2,5mm diameter.

Yuuki Galaxy - Reply

A T8 screw driver worked best for me on the 4 hard drive screws.

rparks89 - Reply

Yes - You need a T8 there rather than T9.

amrgardner -

T9 was a perfect fit for me.

dloftis -

T8 screws in my HDD

aiino - Reply

Image 1/3: Cease prying when the removal tool makes contact with the opening in the rear case. Image 2/3: Remove the Mac Mini Logic Board Removal tool. Image 3/3: Remove the Mac Mini Logic Board Removal tool.
  • Carefully pull the tool toward the I/O board. The logic board and I/O board assembly should slightly slide out of the outer case.

  • Cease prying when the removal tool makes contact with the opening in the rear case.

  • Remove the Mac Mini Logic Board Removal tool.

I had some trouble getting mine started here. If your logic board seems stuck, try pushing the removal tool on both sides near the bottom (vs the top like the photos show) with your index fingers, holding the case with your ring and pinky fingers so that your hands are completely free of the back of the computer (the side with the ports). This worked for me. Otherwise, this guide made the process smooth!

moorejeffery - Reply

The removal tool fits into sockets below the board, just 'lean' the tool over and the logic board will ease out. When refitting the logic board make sure the tabs around the I/O shield slip inside the shell and press home firmly. If the fixing screw does not thread into it's hole, the board is not fully home.

Malcolm Norwood - Reply

Make sure you do *not* have your thumbs on the black plastic I/O shield while attempting this step!

Stephen Reaser - Reply

I was able to push the logic board out, with a little bit of stress and patience, without the specified tool. Rather I used two paper clips, larger than average, and being very gentle to get the initial nudge. I then finished it off using only my fingers, as the paper clips were not strong enough and would have bended. Doable, but probably easier with the tool.

mt - Reply

I used 2 mini flathead screwdrivers with the same thickness as the holes with the heads aligned straight up and down. They will fit into little sockets attached to the case below the board. The side with the power cord came out much easier than the side with the headphone jack, so I removed the tools after a small gap was created and pushed semi-hard on the logic board with a broken spudger (a screwdriver would have worked, too) right in the elbow curve shown to the left of the screw in step 14, and the whole thing slid right out.

unixmonkey1 - Reply

I saw a video where a guy just used a coat hanger to make his own tool. Good to know in case you've already started taking it apart and haven't already purchased the tool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgEBPlz4...

James Almeida - Reply

May be its me, but I had a right issue with this, I then noticed the screw I loosened in step 10 was bending over. I removed the screw completely, logic board came out, and the metal pillar on the underneath of the board where said screw went in was bent. When I put it all back together afterwards after changing the drive, that long screw was bend, on straightening everything up, the pillar snapped off the logic board. Everything tightened up and its booted up fine. It might just me not following the instructions properly though

steve - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Pull the DC-In cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

When reassembling, I made the mistake of pushing the logic board all the way in before trying to reattach the DC-In cable connector. It is much easier to reattach the connector with the logic board pushed in just short of final seating.

Saqib Qazi - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Carefully slide the logic board assembly out of the Mac Mini, minding any cables that may get caught.

When sliding the logic board assembly back in later, mind the tabs, especially those at each end.

Richard - Reply

Image 1/3: Use tweezers or your fingers to pull the clip away from the AC-in socket, and remove it from the Mac Mini. Image 2/3: When replacing the clip, push it in until it stops—it should be secure even if there is no audible click. Image 3/3: When replacing the clip, push it in until it stops—it should be secure even if there is no audible click.
  • The AC-in socket is secured with a small metal retaining clip.

  • Use tweezers or your fingers to pull the clip away from the AC-in socket, and remove it from the Mac Mini.

  • When replacing the clip, push it in until it stops—it should be secure even if there is no audible click.

Be careful with this seemingly easy step. A few weeks after following this guide to replace my hard drive I noticed that something inside the Mac mini was loose and moving around. I was very annoyed but decided to open it again to have a look and it turned out the be the retaining clip.

I think I damaged it a little bit and it's not holding into place firmly like it is supposed to anymore. I wonder if I can remove it completely in case it happens again.

Franck Thomas - Reply

This re-install of the clip was surprisingly pesky, I agree. The AC-in socket wanted to sit too far towards the edge of the case, so the retaining clip couldn't be slipped on far enough to close fully around it. I had to push the AC socket to the left while sliding the clip to the right until the wings were really securely closed.

Jon Scott - Reply

Image 1/3: Rotate the AC-In connector 90 degrees counter-clockwise. Image 2/3: Rotate the AC-In connector 90 degrees counter-clockwise. Image 3/3: Rotate the AC-In connector 90 degrees counter-clockwise.
  • To free the power supply from the case, grab the AC-In connector, which acts like a latch.

  • Rotate the AC-In connector 90 degrees counter-clockwise.

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Image 1/1: During reassembly ensure the power supply is inserted far enough into the case that the latch will engage with the groove.
  • The AC-In latch should fit into the groove above it in the case.

  • During reassembly ensure the power supply is inserted far enough into the case that the latch will engage with the groove.

"During reassembly ensure the power supply is inserted far enough into the case that the latch will engage with the groove." -- Tip: Flip the case upside down and wiggle the power supply a bit to get it seated properly so the screw hole lines up.

Brad Bowers - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the 8 mm T6 screw securing the power supply.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Slide the power supply out of the Mini, minding any cables that may get caught.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 8 mm T6 screw securing the drive tray.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Lift the drive tray up out of the Mac Mini.

When re-installing drive tray, note two holes in tray engage two spuds at the far end. I fumbled with this for a minute.

Jon Scott - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the four (two on each side) 6.5 mm T9 screws securing the hard drive to the drive tray.

Like others, a T8 screw driver worked best for me on the 4 hard drive screws.

sorinjc - Reply

it is t8 not t9. you owe me a TR6 Torx Security bit :D

giammin - Reply

I found the 4 screws quite hard to remove and needed to use an 8mm spanner on the back of my T8 screwdriver to get them loose.

Reiner Friedel - Reply

Screws have loctite residue. I put a tiny drop of fresh blue (semi-permanent) on each screw before reinstalling.

Jon Scott - Reply

Image 1/3: During reassembly, be sure to thread the hard drive cable through the slot in the drive tray. Image 2/3: During reassembly, be sure to thread the hard drive cable through the slot in the drive tray. Image 3/3: During reassembly, be sure to thread the hard drive cable through the slot in the drive tray.
  • Lift the hard drive up and remove it from the drive tray.

  • During reassembly, be sure to thread the hard drive cable through the slot in the drive tray.

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Image 1/3: Pull the SATA cable connector straight out of the hard drive. Image 2/3: Carefully peel off the two black sticky pads (one visible in picture) from the hard drive and stick them to your new hard drive in the same locations. Image 3/3: Carefully peel off the two black sticky pads (one visible in picture) from the hard drive and stick them to your new hard drive in the same locations.
  • Carefully peel off the tape that secures the SATA cable connector to the hard drive.

  • Pull the SATA cable connector straight out of the hard drive.

  • Carefully peel off the two black sticky pads (one visible in picture) from the hard drive and stick them to your new hard drive in the same locations.

The bottom of the hard drive SATA Connector had a bit of black tape on it holding the Mac SATA connection to the bottom [circuit board side] of the hard drive itself.

Check to see if yours has this as well before applying too much force removing the SATA connector from the hard drive.

KevCoStudios - Reply

Are there any temperature sensors glued to the HD as in the previous versions of the mini?

Matias -

I found the SATA cable itself glued to the drive. Once I pulled the cable up and away from the PCB, I found a piece of black tape (as mentioned by KevCoStudios) holding the connectors together.

dloftis - Reply

This tape is critical. For some reason, apple supplied a very loose fitting SATA connector. Tape is required to keep the HD attached.

James Billy - Reply

%#*@, got this far all ok, but didn't notice the tape and pulled too hard, ripping the metal pins out of the connector! Where can I find a replacement part?

Sky Willmott - Reply

Did the same thing, wondering if you ever found a replacement?

Alex Boyd -

This guide is almost perfect aside from the omission of a picture of that well-hidden adhesive. I've seen it on other Apple SATA connectors, but it's been a few months and I didn't think about it today.

Please someone upload a picture of the adhesive on the PCB side of the drive. I'll gladly do it myself when I next open a 2014 Mac Mini, but I've no idea when I'll get to open another one.

I also struggled mightily for about 15 minutes before finding the small black tape. Like a jerk, I forgot to take close up pictures while I had it apart :-

I was probably 5 minutes away from breaking off the SATA connector by prying too hard using a spudger on each edge of the cable.

If anyone has pictures, hopefully they can upload here to help out others.

This mac mini was significantly different from previous minis I've worked on, the guide saved me A LOT of time.

Thanks for the great writeup!

Daniel Cassel - Reply

@rebootninja I bought mine last december the 500GB model and just ordered the tools and a Sandisk SSD Plus, I could send pictures of the tape when i do it myself. Im not sure when. Since i'm living in Maldives, orders from ebay and online takes 3-5 weeks to arrive. However, i shall keep a note of what you have mentioned here. I have read the guide twice now and now i think im quite ready to perform the surgery when the tools arrive :)

Mohamed Malik - Reply

Cable looked to have been glued down with just a spot of RTV (silicone.) Easy enough to peel slowly with spudger. Ordinary RTV is corrosive to electronics so if you add fresh, make sure it's electronic-safe. I also reinforced the black tape on re-assembly with a strip of Kapton tape, and burnished well with spudger.

Jon Scott - Reply

If you still need the images for the sticker.....

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wq8vxwejqjbm0...

Thanks for the guide.

Leo Rudolph - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

281 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

Member since: 10/18/2012

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42 Comments

Hello, the following hard drive goes on the Mac Mini ??

http://www.sandisk.de/products/ssd/sata/...

schneiderschutzraum - Reply

no problem. but if you can get a evo 850 or a pro for the 2014 is better

Carlos De Bernard -

Wow! Even though it cost a bunch ($1500 US), I'm glad I got the fully loaded (16G, I7, 2TB) Mac Mini. I guess when I can get a 4TB drive that someone can install (I have used MCE Tech for other upgrades), I might do that.

Martin Cohen - Reply

All in all, this was a fairly terrifying process, however this guide was a massive help! Thankyou!!

geeksix - Reply

Ordered kit which arrived very quickly from Germany to UK. Only problem with taking it apart was with the IR sensor was difficult to lift up and I ended up pulling the whole fitting off glued it back on but now have no working IR sensor or front light but everything else works fine. Swapped SLOW HDD for SSD and now my Mac MIni is flying.

Andrew - Reply

Sam - i bought the tools and followed your guide and everything went very well - the steps were clear and precise. The only problem I am having now is that the Mac Mini format my new EVO SSD as though it were a Fusion Drive with two partitions. Is there any way around this?

Thanks,

Steve Maiorano - Reply

How do I know what SSD drive will be compatible?

godurbin - Reply

could you suggest a good replacement drive?

godurbin - Reply

You can find a list of compatible drives at the top of this guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hello. I have this sdd: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ8...

Do you know if I could use it in a mac mini late 2014?

Daniel Luiz Costa - Reply

If I buy a SSD only Mac mini, can I add a SATA hard drive??

Zhenfu Shi - Reply

i was wondering the same, did you find it out?

Francesco -

Yes, you can. You'll need a Mac mini-compatible SATA cable but these are readily available online for under a fiver. (Alternatively, of course, you could add a second SSD.)

Roger Houghton -

Hi,

I have mac mini 2014 i5 2.6 GHz model.

Will it support Kingston SSDNow V300 SV300S37A/240G 240GB SATA III 2.5-Inch for upgrade and also will it supports trim support ?

Arul Jeba - Reply

After replacing to full ssd, my mac works great, but the mac mini front light does not come on at all...anybody know why or a fix?

alejandro begines - Reply

Very good step by step. Thanks.

I passed from 1min15s to 12s booting time !

Nicolas Gaillet - Reply

Many thanks for the excellent details in this guide, swapped out for an SSD in a flash!

Jonathan Millsted - Reply

do you know if i can add 2 hdisks (a ssd 500 gb + a sata one) with the dual drive kit?

Francesco -

Thank U very much, very useful!

Javier Vitorero - Reply

Hello! Just a quick question:

Right now i have a mac mini 2012 with the ifixit dual drive kit (1 samsung 850 pro 500 gb and 1tb 5400 rpm disk), can i buy the 2016 model (2014?) and put my kit on the new mac? Should i buy the fusion drive version or the ssd one?

is the ram replaceable?

thanks!

Francesco - Reply

Hi,

As far as I know, you cannot use your kit on the latest Mac Mini.

If you buy a Fusion Drive version, you will have an SSD on a Mini-PCIe connector, that will not be here if you do not take the fusion drive.

No, the RAM is soldered on the motherboard.

Regards

Nicolas Gaillet -

I have a question for SSD variant.

If i order mac mini from apple with SSD (PCIe variant i hope) there should be empy space where normal HDD should be. Is that correct? Can you verify or deny that?

That could be the way how to get two disks inside once owc release their new ssd's.

Thank you

jakub - Reply

I was wondering the same :) I was thinking to buy the SSD version and then adding 1 Tb disk to the SATA controller, it could be a good solution.

Let know if you find it out :)

Francesco -

If I buy the 512 GB SSD version, can I put an additional disk to the SATA controller? For example, If I buy the Samsung 850 pro 1 Tb, can I use it together with the original 512 pcie SSD? Thanks

Francesco - Reply

Thank you, it was a walk in the park. I only encountered two problems: step 24, pulling the DC-in cable out and step 27 (on the reverse operation), making the AC connector back into the horizontal position. Also, the metallic clip from step 26 is a ##&&% to put back on, especially because there is no feedback if the clip is in the original position.

stefan - Reply

Fantastic guide. Got the job done & the mac mini is now flying. Thank you!

Milind Kanetkar - Reply

I've just purchased the Mac Mini do these instructions apply to the late 2015 model?

Neil Henderson - Reply

There isn't a late 2015 model, the last model they made so far is the late 2014.

twhitten -

Dont buy the economy TR9 it wont fit in the screws, you have to strip them away a little bit to even get the TR9 economy in.

twhitten - Reply

I just installed the Samsung EVO Pro 850 512gb SSD into my HDD slot as i purchased a HDD model of the mac mini only. This SSD works like a charm, my boot time before with the 5400rpm HDD was nearly 2 minutes, with this SSD it is now down to 9 seconds! I highly recommend updating your mac mini if its an HDD only with an SSD as it will speed it up tremendously!

The teardown wasn't bad at all, i had tore down in 15 minutes and had it put back together in 15 minutes. The only trouble i had was taking out the HDD, Ifixit sent me a TR9 instead of just a T9 and the TR9 is bigger, it wouldn't fit but i stripped away at the screws and finally made it work!

twhitten - Reply

twhitten are you experience any compatibility issues with it. I Just just ordered the tools via iFixit. And now i'm looking for an SSD and the Samsung EVO Pro 850 is the number one on my list. Asking cause some on youtube are saying it as compatibility issues with mac minis...!

Thanks In Advance..!

Mohamed Malik -

Clear Guide Thank You !

william petreman - Reply

I followed the instructions and replaced my HD with and SSD - well worth it.

However, several glitches along the way:

1. The TR9 screwdriver I purchased from iFixit sucks. The handle turns but the shaft doesn't. The screws holding the original HD to the tray were so tight, I had to go to Geek Squad to have them removed.

2. It wasn't clear what the power supply clip held in place. I managed to get it back in, but I'm not sure it is holding anything.

3. It was not clear if the tape holding the SATA cable connector to the original HD was needed for the new SSD (It wasn't). I ripped it while taking it off.

4. The DC-In connector to the logic board would not come out using fingers - not much room to get fingers in. Had to pry it off using a flat head screwdriver.

David Marks - Reply

Can I use the same sshd but it has 2tb instead of 1tb? I wanna replace the 2tb but i wonder if it is compatible with the mac mini late 2014. My specs i5 ram 16gb, 1th hdd 5400rpm. thank you!

link from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Firecuda-...

TUAN TRAN - Reply

Done it....it went flawlessly....

Mohamed Malik - Reply

Absolutely wonderful guide. I've built/torn down/reassembled a ton of PCs in my life, but this was more like solving a puzzle. Thanks for the help, I probably would have broken something without it!

Andrea Gatley - Reply

Thanks to this guide it was quite easy to replace the awful slow harddrive with a fast ssd. I think I got a new computer. Thank you very much for this guide.

dirk hampel - Reply

1. Will Samsung -850 Pro SSD work with Mac mini 2014.?

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-PRO-2...

2. How many SSD slots and HDD slot are there.?

3. If i order Mac Mini with HDD then if there is another slot for SSD then can i install SSD and use it as fusion.?

vip - Reply

After I got a quality TR6 it only took approximately 20 minutes to teardown and an additional 10 to put back together. New 2014 Mac Mini MGEN2LL/A (i5 2.6ghz 8gb ram 1tb 5400rpm hard drive) took 46sec to go from button push to login screen. Swapped in 500gb Samsung 840 SSD, which now takes 19sec from button push to login screen. Prior to swapping the internal drive, I used the same Samsung SSD in an external USB3 drive enclosure - took 35sec to login.

Nathan Church - Reply

Thanks for the instruction !

They helped me swap the HD out for a nice SSD, and install the UpTone Audio MMK adaptor and fan control upgrade (separate walk thru).

I ran into a few issues, that others have mentioned, but nothing I couldn't figure out. The only thing I needed that wasn't in the he MMK took kit, was a good pair of tweezers.

Dave Ayers - Reply

Thanks for the guide - the key is to follow the instructions to the word, read all the comments and take your time. It's difficult to know how much force to use especially when detaching the IR and DC connector.

Nicholas Kutner - Reply

the retaining bolts for the drive chassis are definitely T8's, not T9

placebomessiah - Reply

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