Introduction

Use this guide to replace the hard drive cable in your hard drive only or Fusion Drive Mac mini Late 2014.

This guide was made with a Fusion Drive Mac mini. If your Mac mini only has a hard drive, skip the steps about the PCIe SSD and its connector.

  1. The bottom cover is clipped onto three screw posts.
    • The bottom cover is clipped onto three screw posts.

    • Pry near, but not right on the screw posts.

    Read Me First: I purchased an SSD drive directly from Crucial and, of course, it came uninitialized. After going thru the entire tear down, installing the new drive, and rebuilding the mini, it refused to recognize the new drive. So, of course, I had to re-tear it down, remove the new drive, insert it into an external housing and format it using my Macbook. After that the mini recognized the new drive. A word to the wise: format the new drive before installing it.

    tom - Reply

    How were you installing the OS? I am planning on booting into a USB drive with a copy of OS High Sierra on it, and I assume I will be able to format my new Samsung SSD using that?

    Simon - Reply

    On my Samsung EVO 850, mac mini download system automaticly

    Stefan Repac - Reply

    Pre-formatting is not necessary if you make a USB boot installation drive with macOS installer. During boot up, hold down the option key until the mac boot into the USB, formatting can then be done using disk utility running off the USB drive.

    SBR249 - Reply

    I had the exact same experience as tom. I installed a brand new 2TB Samsung 850 EVO and it was not recognized by the Mac Mini. I booted from a portable USB drive with a bootable copy of macOS High Sierra but the 850 EVO SSD I had just installed was not shown as an option. I tore down the Mac Mini again, formatted the 850 EVO, rebuilt the Mac Mini, and booted off the same bootable High Sierra USB drive, and sure enough the 850 EVO was recognized.

    maxim - Reply

    diskutil list

    diskutil erasedisk [filesystem] [drivename] /dev/disk[disk number]

    Paul Rodgers - Reply

  2. Use the plastic opening tool to pry the bottom cover up off of the Mac mini.
    • Use the plastic opening tool to pry the bottom cover up off of the Mac mini.

    I used some wooden toothpicks instead of the opening tool. This worked flawless for me.

    mhomscheidt - Reply

    • Lift and remove the bottom cover.

    I taped the "Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool" to the flat part of the antenna plate before sealing everything up again. I mean, where else am I supposed to store it without forgetting where it is? I'm pretty sure it won't cause any problems there.

    Richard - Reply

    That’s a brilliant idea, @mrredwood!

    Dan Moore -

    I would suggest you wash the underside of the plastic as mine after 3 years was covered in dust.

    John Errington - Reply

    • Remove the following TR6 screws from the antenna plate:

      • Three 4.1 mm screws

      • Three 1.9 mm screws

    Had a T7 security screw driver [and didn't want to wait to have the T6 version shipped to me], so I gave it a whirl. I lined up the driver with the screw socket, pressed down a bit to make sure the driver would get enough grip, and slowly [but forcefully] rotated the driver and got these screws out. BE CAUTIOUS not to strip the screws. May not work for everyone.

    KevCoStudios - Reply

    As TR6 screwdrivers were sold out all over Germany and I wanted to exchange the HDD THIS friday, I took a VERY fine dental milling tip (0,8 mm head diameter) for my proxxon and milled away the little dots in the center of the the TR6 screws. After that I could open the case with a regular T6 screwdriver. All went fine, MM is closed again + working like a charm with it's new SSD. NOTE: For this task I used my loupe glasses (3x) ;)

    Martin Gerner - Reply

    On the whole screw thing. I just used a tiny dremel drill bit and drilled out the security pin. I hate those screws. I don't see the point in locking the them with those. they should have left the screws alone.

    That Mac Guy - Reply

    That worked for me, thanks for the trick!

    Arroba -

    great trick!

    James Almeida -

    I used the T7 very carefully. No problems.

    randywardak - Reply

    I just had success using standard pliers to remove the longer screw posts, and then I used standard needle nose pliers to press down and grip the tiny screws. Please note that this method may/will cause scrapping of the aluminium cover.

    Barrythetech - Reply

    Northern Tools sells a set of 13 Torx Security Keys for $28.99 that has the TR6 size.

    Gary Craig - Reply

    On my 2nd drive replacement (swapping out to an SSD this time). Could not find my logic board removal tool. So I made another one from a metal coat hanger. So, here’s my tip, when you put it all back together: the logic board removal tool fits around that small black circle antenna perfectly and you can replace the large black cover over the top snuggly. No rattles or anything.. So, next time: I’m guaranteed to find my logic board removal tool.

    Andy Milne - Reply

    • Do not completely remove the antenna plate; it is still connected to the Mac mini by an antenna cable.

    • With the I/O ports facing you, flip the antenna plate to the right to allow access to the antenna cable connector.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the single 3.4 mm T6 screw and washer from the antenna cable.

      • Be careful not to lose the washer when removing the screw.

    This is a pain in the arse to get back on. Lock the screw down first when reassembling.

    Jim Allen - Reply

    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the antenna connector straight up off its socket on the airport card.

    Is this really necessary? The antenna is no where near the SSD drive....

    mike - Reply

    This was the most tricky part for me when remounting the Mac Mini. With my bad eyes, I’ve spent 10 minutes inserting this tiny round antenna plug in the hole. I’ve decided to put the screw back without tighten it too strongly and then it was easier.

    afajner - Reply

    I have been having wifi issues ever since I changed the drive. I don’t know if this connector is the cause or not.

    Simon - Reply

    I have been having wifi issues ever since I did this upgrade. Don’t know if it’s this connector or not.

    Simon - Reply

    Afajner great rip. Worked great. Thx

    Milton - Reply

    Afajner, your tip worked great. Thanks.

    Milton - Reply

    This is a very fiddly connector. Afajner’s tip is recommended. Make sure the connector is in securely. It will not wiggle or make a ticking sound when pressed when it is seated correctly.

    maxim - Reply

    I had trouble at this point too. My experience: Loosen the screw a bit and than center the antenna plug over the pin. In my case I heard a click when I plugged it in correctly. Don’t forget to tighten the screw afterwards.

    Matthias - Reply

    • Carefully pull the antenna cable out from the gap between the power supply and case.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the antenna plate from the Mac mini.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the two 12 mm T6 screws from the fan.

    • Loosen the 27 mm T6 captive screw.

    That 27mm screw should be very loose, since it attaches the motherboard to the case. When you’re trying to remove the motherboard, if the AC connection side of the board is not moving back easily, you need to make sure this screw is fully backed out from the case.

    There’s no danger in removing it completely.

    marklfarley - Reply

    I suggest removing the 27 mm tool, otherwise Step 23 will not work.

    Arvin Bhatnagar - Reply

    • The fan connector is trapped under the edge of the fan and cannot be disconnected until the fan is moved.

      • Do not attempt to remove the fan entirely.

    • Lift the fan straight up to free the captive screw from its hole in the logic board.

    • Pull the fan away from the SSD until you can easily access the fan connector.

    Add Comment

    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the fan connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    When I did this the entire socket came off the logic board. What do I do now?

    Tyler - Reply

    • Remove the fan from the Mac mini.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the 2.6 mm T6 screw securing the SATA cable connector bracket.

    This screw is very short, when I tried to put it back, the beginning of its thread got dusted and now it's impossible to use it to fix the bracket in place. It should be 3.5 mm instead of 2.6. Nevertheless, the SATA connector is firmly attached to the logical board withou screw+bracket and my mac mini is working nicely.

    mario.estolano - Reply

    • Remove the SATA cable connector bracket.

    This procedure works to add a SATA hard drive/SSD to a PCIe SSD-only Mac Mini using iFixit's Mac Mini Dual Drive Kit. The one thing that's missing from the kit is SATA cable connector bracket (and screw). This is not the end of the world: the cable is a snug fit in the logic board socket, so the bracket is only a safety measure.

    Dominic Dunlop - Reply

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the SATA cable connector up off of its socket on the logic board.

    Last time I did this I got the tool under the socket and it broke off. This caused the power light not to work. I don’t use the IR function so it wasn’t an issue. When putting this connector back on, make sure it seats well as many have has issues with the the power light not working. You will read more of this on the comments at the bottom

    Greg Bouten - Reply

    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the IR sensor cable connector by prying it straight up from its socket.

    Be careful in this step. I am known for my gentle hands and the little cable flew out regardless. Was able to reinsert with no damage but was terrifying!

    Liliana Chavez - Reply

    What if the entire connector came off? Can this be glued again? How can I fix this?? :(

    Cai - Reply

    • The following three steps only apply to Mac minis equipped with a PCIe SSD. Skip the next three steps if your Mac mini only has a hard drive.

    • Remove the two 2.6 mm T6 screws securing the PCIe SSD cable bracket.

    Steps 18-20 only apply if you are removing a fusion drive. Otherwise skip to step 21 during removal.

    Stephen Reaser - Reply

    • Remove the PCIe SSD cable bracket.

    Add Comment

    • Lift the PCIe SSD connector up off its socket.

    Is the PCIe connector present and usable on the mid-range Mac mini? I don't need the ~$300 fusion drive but would like the comfort of knowing that I can add an extra SSD in the future.

    Michael Johnson - Reply

    No, only present in Mac Minis configured with a fusion drive.

    rasmus - Reply

    Not true. I am looking @ the inside of a mac mini _not_ configured with a fusion drive, and the connector is present.

    Samuel Bostick - Reply

    The PCIe connector is only present if the computer came factory configured with any sort of flash storage (SSD or fusion drive). Otherwise, the cable, the connector, the bracket, and the 2 screws are all missing. The fusion drive is essentially a disk drive plus a small capacity SSD blade which the OS recognizes as a combined drive. Fortunately, if you didn’t have an SSD before, you can easily buy the connector cable part on the internet. The bracket and screws are not necessary.

    SBR249 - Reply

    • Remove the single 16 mm T6 screw securing the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • To remove the logic board, the two cylindrical rods of the Mac mini Logic Board Removal Tool must be inserted into the holes highlighted in red. Inserting instruments into any logic board holes other than the ones highlighted in red may destroy the logic board.

    • Insert the Mac mini Logic Board Removal Tool into the two holes highlighted in red. Be sure the rods make contact with the case under the logic board before proceeding.

    Instead of the removal tool it is also possible to use two metal pins with 2,5mm diameter.

    Yuuki Galaxy - Reply

    A T8 screw driver worked best for me on the 4 hard drive screws.

    rparks89 - Reply

    Yes - You need a T8 there rather than T9.

    amrgardner -

    T9 was a perfect fit for me.

    dloftis -

    T8 screws in my HDD

    aiino - Reply

    You don’t need a tool for this step, just turn the Mac Mini around 180º and push the vent for the fan with your thumbs. The board will push straight out. That’s what I did.

    Daniel De Ciantis - Reply

    Simple thumb-pushing didn’t work for me, so I bought the tool.

    Insert the MMLBRtool. How far? There’s an initial lip you might catch about halfway down, but wiggle beyond the lip to a definite bottoming out, and equal lengths of the tool on each side of the elbows as shown.

    As you lever the logic board per the illustrations, you’ll notice the black bezel begin to separate on one side or the other. Use a prying tool or guitar pick to help separate the bezel from the body on top and bottom, and the logic board will slide out easily with gentle prying.

    On my Mini, the bezel’s retaining clips (best seen in Step 25) were very snug to the body, preventing the thumb-push. Using the pick released them from the body.

    s gardner - Reply

    You definitely don’t need the tool. Just get two screwdrivers small enough to fit in the holes and push them both at the same time. I have about a million tiny torx screwdirvers that came with iphone screen replacement kits. I’m sure you do too.

    Mark2000 - Reply

    • Carefully pull the tool toward the I/O board. The logic board and I/O board assembly should slightly slide out of the outer case.

    • Cease prying when the removal tool makes contact with the opening in the rear case.

    • Remove the Mac mini Logic Board Removal tool.

    I had some trouble getting mine started here. If your logic board seems stuck, try pushing the removal tool on both sides near the bottom (vs the top like the photos show) with your index fingers, holding the case with your ring and pinky fingers so that your hands are completely free of the back of the computer (the side with the ports). This worked for me. Otherwise, this guide made the process smooth!

    moorejeffery - Reply

    The removal tool fits into sockets below the board, just 'lean' the tool over and the logic board will ease out. When refitting the logic board make sure the tabs around the I/O shield slip inside the shell and press home firmly. If the fixing screw does not thread into it's hole, the board is not fully home.

    Malcolm Norwood - Reply

    This is what worked for me!

    Rick Allen -

    Make sure you do *not* have your thumbs on the black plastic I/O shield while attempting this step!

    Stephen Reaser - Reply

    I was able to push the logic board out, with a little bit of stress and patience, without the specified tool. Rather I used two paper clips, larger than average, and being very gentle to get the initial nudge. I then finished it off using only my fingers, as the paper clips were not strong enough and would have bended. Doable, but probably easier with the tool.

    mt - Reply

    Even with the tool - it takes more force than you think. There are clips on both sides of the board. Be aware of that when putting it back.

    Jim Allen -

    I used 2 mini flathead screwdrivers with the same thickness as the holes with the heads aligned straight up and down. They will fit into little sockets attached to the case below the board. The side with the power cord came out much easier than the side with the headphone jack, so I removed the tools after a small gap was created and pushed semi-hard on the logic board with a broken spudger (a screwdriver would have worked, too) right in the elbow curve shown to the left of the screw in step 14, and the whole thing slid right out.

    unixmonkey1 - Reply

    I saw a video where a guy just used a coat hanger to make his own tool. Good to know in case you've already started taking it apart and haven't already purchased the tool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgEBPlz4...

    James Almeida - Reply

    The coat hanger trick worked flawlessly for me. Very easy.

    Jochen -

    May be its me, but I had a right issue with this, I then noticed the screw I loosened in step 10 was bending over. I removed the screw completely, logic board came out, and the metal pillar on the underneath of the board where said screw went in was bent. When I put it all back together afterwards after changing the drive, that long screw was bend, on straightening everything up, the pillar snapped off the logic board. Everything tightened up and its booted up fine. It might just me not following the instructions properly though

    steve - Reply

    Same here. The screw has to be backed out further than I thought. This should maybe be clearer.

    marklfarley -

    For me the screw loosened in step 10 came out with the fan. it "should" be a captive screw meaning it doesn't stay in when the fan comes out

    Bill Pennock - Reply

    I had 2 complete sets of allen wrenches, one metric and one standard and found one each that fit the holes perfectly. With those I was able to find the "pry spots" that are on the base of the case very easily and a slight nudge moved the board. really worked EXCELLENTLY

    Bill Pennock - Reply

    My logic board was hung up on the left side with the plastic retainer or the two grounding tabs not giving up the ghost. There is no good picture of this on this procedure. If you go the the heat sink replacement procedure you can see a pretty good bit of it below the presenter’s right thumb in the opening pic and in a larger pic at step 27. Not that the logic board assembly can move much while seated I was able to shift (ever so slightly) the black plastic backside to the right and the board finally unlatched and came out. I was so worried that I was going to over force it and break something, you know, like the logic board. Not sure if I have a solution other than don’t force it. If it seems hard and one side seems to have a screw or other some such locking device stop forcing it and try shifting the logic board to the side opposite were it is catching.

    Eric Jorgensen - Reply

    I had an issue during reassembly where the AC in socket was just offset and would not line up correctly. I inserted the power cord (unplugged from wall) as I did the final push and everything finally lined up right.

    Austin McGuire - Reply

    One thing about sliding the assembly board in, i.e. when you are doing the steps backwards, is that there is squishy pad on left and clip on the righ (when viewing mac mini from bottom) if you carefully observe and then it becomes easy to get the assembly in or out if you think about it.

    Trushar - Reply

    • Pull the DC-In cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    When reassembling, I made the mistake of pushing the logic board all the way in before trying to reattach the DC-In cable connector. It is much easier to reattach the connector with the logic board pushed in just short of final seating.

    Saqib Qazi - Reply

    Very usefull comment!!!

    Jean-Marie Sengelen -

    very small needle-nose pliers help, when reassembling.

    allanschwartz - Reply

    • Carefully slide the logic board assembly out of the Mac mini, minding any cables that may get caught.

    When sliding the logic board assembly back in later, mind the tabs, especially those at each end.

    Richard - Reply

    When sliding the logic board back in, also be careful and make sure the rubber “sock” on the logic board wraps around the AC-in socket on the power supply.

    Anton - Reply

    If you can’t get the logic board assembly back in so that it is flush (as it was before you did your surgery on the machine) then I would pay attention to two things: 1) the “sock.” Make sure it is back in place in the right way. I wish I could tell you which way that is but because there is no picture I had to guess and I can’t remember what my guess was now. 2) the retaining clip in step 26. I was unable to properly seat the logic board back into the machine so that it was flush UNTIL I fooled around with the clip and, I GUESS, put it in properly this time. After I did that I was able to properly push the logic board back into place.

    Christopher Todd - Reply

    • The AC-in socket is secured with a small metal retaining clip.

    • Use tweezers or your fingers to pull the clip away from the AC-in socket, and remove it from the Mac mini.

    • When replacing the clip, push it in until it stops—it should be secure even if there is no audible click.

    Be careful with this seemingly easy step. A few weeks after following this guide to replace my hard drive I noticed that something inside the Mac mini was loose and moving around. I was very annoyed but decided to open it again to have a look and it turned out the be the retaining clip.

    I think I damaged it a little bit and it's not holding into place firmly like it is supposed to anymore. I wonder if I can remove it completely in case it happens again.

    Franck Thomas - Reply

    This re-install of the clip was surprisingly pesky, I agree. The AC-in socket wanted to sit too far towards the edge of the case, so the retaining clip couldn't be slipped on far enough to close fully around it. I had to push the AC socket to the left while sliding the clip to the right until the wings were really securely closed.

    Jon Scott - Reply

    I fully agree with the pesky nature of this clip. During my reinstall I noticed that the logic board assembly would not go back in flush with the metal case. Nothing I did changed that. I had to pull out the logic board assembly again and for some reason I decided to futz with the clip. I think I must have re-seated it a little bit better because I was then able to push the assembly back into place and make it flush again. This pin is a PITA!

    Christopher Todd - Reply

    I ageee. When it popped loose I thought I broke it. My retaining clip disappeared but that plug is very tight.. it’s not budging. Take the time to make sure it’s aligned properly - there are little indents in the top and bottom of the case. You’ll know it’s right if you don’t have to fight it.

    Jim Allen - Reply

    I don’t understand why this retaining clip is necessary. The AC-in “latch” is positioned by the grove in the case, and quite tight. The power supply is keyed in the back, and attached with the (step 29) screw. I can’t see the retaining clip doing anything, so I will leave it out.

    allanschwartz - Reply

    • To free the power supply from the case, grab the AC-In connector, which acts like a latch.

    • Rotate the AC-In connector 90 degrees counter-clockwise.

    Add Comment

    • The AC-In latch should fit into the groove above it in the case.

    • During reassembly ensure the power supply is inserted far enough into the case that the latch will engage with the groove.

    "During reassembly ensure the power supply is inserted far enough into the case that the latch will engage with the groove." -- Tip: Flip the case upside down and wiggle the power supply a bit to get it seated properly so the screw hole lines up.

    Brad Bowers - Reply

    • Remove the 8 mm T6 screw securing the power supply.

    During reassembly, leave this a bit loose so that you can wiggle the AC-in latch into place in step 28

    Sandip Bhattacharya - Reply

    • Slide the power supply out of the mini, minding any cables that may get caught.

    When re-seating the PSU, be sure to align the little metal tab that points toward of the front of the Mac Mini so that it mates with the receiving socket at the front of the case. If not, the light at the front of the case that glows white when the Mac Mini is in various power states will not illuminate.

    maxim - Reply

    • Remove the single 8 mm T6 screw securing the drive tray.

    Add Comment

    • Lift the drive tray up out of the Mac mini.

    When re-installing drive tray, note two holes in tray engage two spuds at the far end. I fumbled with this for a minute.

    Jon Scott - Reply

    • Remove the four (two on each side) 6.5 mm T8 screws securing the hard drive to the drive tray.

    Like others, a T8 screw driver worked best for me on the 4 hard drive screws.

    sorinjc - Reply

    it is t8 not t9. you owe me a TR6 Torx Security bit :D

    giammin - Reply

    I found the 4 screws quite hard to remove and needed to use an 8mm spanner on the back of my T8 screwdriver to get them loose.

    Reiner Friedel - Reply

    Screws have loctite residue. I put a tiny drop of fresh blue (semi-permanent) on each screw before reinstalling.

    Jon Scott - Reply

    T9 was the right one for mine

    Bill Pennock - Reply

    T9 Torx from recommended barely allowed me to remove these screws. I had to press very strong them into screws, so that pressure and minimal adhesion made it possible to move something.

    Vitalijs Ozornins - Reply

    T8 was more appropriate for me !!!

    afajner - Reply

    The instructions at the top recommend a T9 but the link plops a TR9 into your basket. In any event, the T8 works better.

    tom - Reply

    T8 was also good for me. Mini was manufactured in 2016 October.

    soul.tan - Reply

    TR7 did the job.

    Benni Piron - Reply

    • Lift the hard drive up and remove it from the drive tray.

    • During reassembly, be sure to thread the hard drive cable through the slot in the drive tray.

    Add Comment

    • Lift up the ribbon cable and carefully peel away the black tape underneath, which secures the SATA cable connector to the hard drive.

    • Pull the SATA cable connector straight out of the hard drive.

    • Carefully peel off the two black, square-shaped sticky pads (one visible in picture) from the corners of the hard drive, and stick them to your new hard drive in the same locations.

    The bottom of the hard drive SATA Connector had a bit of black tape on it holding the Mac SATA connection to the bottom [circuit board side] of the hard drive itself.

    Check to see if yours has this as well before applying too much force removing the SATA connector from the hard drive.

    KevCoStudios - Reply

    Are there any temperature sensors glued to the HD as in the previous versions of the mini?

    Matias -

    I found the SATA cable itself glued to the drive. Once I pulled the cable up and away from the PCB, I found a piece of black tape (as mentioned by KevCoStudios) holding the connectors together.

    dloftis - Reply

    This tape is critical. For some reason, apple supplied a very loose fitting SATA connector. Tape is required to keep the HD attached.

    James Billy - Reply

    %#*@, got this far all ok, but didn't notice the tape and pulled too hard, ripping the metal pins out of the connector! Where can I find a replacement part?

    Sky Willmott - Reply

    Did the same thing, wondering if you ever found a replacement?

    Alex Boyd -

    I did the same thing. I found a replacement on Amazon using the serial number printed on the underside of the connector. It worked like a charm.

    Anthony Califano -

    This guide is almost perfect aside from the omission of a picture of that well-hidden adhesive. I've seen it on other Apple SATA connectors, but it's been a few months and I didn't think about it today.

    Please someone upload a picture of the adhesive on the PCB side of the drive. I'll gladly do it myself when I next open a 2014 Mac Mini, but I've no idea when I'll get to open another one.

    I also struggled mightily for about 15 minutes before finding the small black tape. Like a jerk, I forgot to take close up pictures while I had it apart :-

    I was probably 5 minutes away from breaking off the SATA connector by prying too hard using a spudger on each edge of the cable.

    If anyone has pictures, hopefully they can upload here to help out others.

    This mac mini was significantly different from previous minis I've worked on, the guide saved me A LOT of time.

    Thanks for the great writeup!

    Daniel Cassel - Reply

    @rebootninja I bought mine last december the 500GB model and just ordered the tools and a Sandisk SSD Plus, I could send pictures of the tape when i do it myself. Im not sure when. Since i'm living in Maldives, orders from ebay and online takes 3-5 weeks to arrive. However, i shall keep a note of what you have mentioned here. I have read the guide twice now and now i think im quite ready to perform the surgery when the tools arrive :)

    Mohamed Malik - Reply

    Cable looked to have been glued down with just a spot of RTV (silicone.) Easy enough to peel slowly with spudger. Ordinary RTV is corrosive to electronics so if you add fresh, make sure it's electronic-safe. I also reinforced the black tape on re-assembly with a strip of Kapton tape, and burnished well with spudger.

    Jon Scott - Reply

    If you still need the images for the sticker.....

    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wq8vxwejqjbm0...

    Thanks for the guide.

    Leo Rudolph - Reply

    In order to avoid any kind of issue to the SATA cable, I suggest to warming the part. A hairdryer could works for the scope.

    Claudio - Reply

    Tough to see the 2 black stick pads. Noticed them on the old hard drive after I reassembled everything with a 1TB Samsung SSD. Don’t think I need the pads as SSD has no moving parts. Would be good if the author circled the 2 pads on the HD.

    Phatcat - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Lionheart

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great , thank-you for help me

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