Introduction

If your Logitech G27 will not respond properly, even after calibrating, you may need to replace its optical encoder. The optical encoder is a small electronic device that turns the wheel's rotation into an electronic signal for the computer to understand. It isn't too hard to replace, you just need plenty of patience because you'll be taking out a lot of screws! Make sure your wheel is completely unplugged before starting this replacement.

Image 1/1: Watch out when you lift the wheel up, as there are fragile wires connected to the bottom side.
  • Remove the six gray 25mm hex screws with a 4mm allen wrench.

  • Watch out when you lift the wheel up, as there are fragile wires connected to the bottom side.

  • Carefully lift up the wheel, but do not disconnect it from the rest of the device.

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Image 1/1:
  • Carefully lift the wheel off of the hub, exposing the 2 shifter paddle wires and PCB board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 7.5 mm silver screws holding the green PCB board in the wheel with a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

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Image 1/1:
  • Carefully remove the PCB board from the wheel hub.

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Image 1/1: Be careful when unplugging this adapter, try not to pull on the wires to avoid damaging them. Instead, wiggle around the plastic connector while pulling on it to loosen it.
  • Carefully pinch and unplug the large 7-pin connector under the PCB board.

  • Be careful when unplugging this adapter, try not to pull on the wires to avoid damaging them. Instead, wiggle around the plastic connector while pulling on it to loosen it.

These screws refused to go all the way back in for me, and one of them stripped completely. If this happens to you, you can get replacement screws that are shorter here - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA...

This works for the G27, not sure about the G25 or any other wheels.

Obviously the screws being shorter means the wheel isn't as strongly attached to the base in this direction, so if you have to do this remember not to put unnecessary stress on these screws by pulling the wheel straight off the base.

SouthernPotato - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the innermost three 37.5mm silver screws with a Phillips #1 screwdriver.
  • You can now fully remove the wheel from the hub. Set it aside until you put the wheel back together.

  • Remove the innermost three 37.5mm silver screws with a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

  • Remove the wheel hub and push the connector through the center of the hub.

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Image 1/1: Remove the eight 15.9mm silver surrounding screws underneath the wheel housing with a Phillips #1 screwdriver.
  • The wheel hub can now be set aside and flip over the steering wheel housing to reveal the under side.

  • Remove the eight 15.9mm silver surrounding screws underneath the wheel housing with a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

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Image 1/1: The housing cover can be set aside until you put the wheel back together.
  • Rotate the housing back over and remove the top half of the housing revealing the majority of the components of the wheel.

  • The housing cover can be set aside until you put the wheel back together.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the four 7.3mm silver screws attaching the green PCB board to the motor housing with a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

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Image 1/1: Unplug the two plastic connectors on the top of the PCB board.
  • Unplug the three plastic connectors on the left side of the PCB board.

  • Unplug the two plastic connectors on the top of the PCB board.

  • Unplug the three plastic connectors on the right side of the PCB board.

  • Pulling the plastic connectors requires a lot of force, but be careful and don't pull directly on the wires. Try to wedge or push the male side of the connector out.

  • If you need some extra leverage when removing these connectors, try using a plastic opening tool to pry off the connectors.

  • Removing these connectors allows easier access to the four screws attaching the PCB board mount to the motor housing.

Some of the connectors have locks on them, I would recommend this as a two person job.

Reuben Andrews - Reply

Image 1/1: You can now set it aside.
  • Remove the PCB board after all of the plastic connectors are disconnected.

  • You can now set it aside.

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Image 1/1: Remove the two 15.5mm bottom silver screws with a Phillips #1 screwdriver.
  • Remove the two 12.3mm upper black screws with a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

  • Remove the two 15.5mm bottom silver screws with a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

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Image 1/2: Set them aside until you reassemble the wheel. Image 2/2: Set them aside until you reassemble the wheel.
  • Remove the PCB board mount and remove the clear plastic piece underneath.

  • Set them aside until you reassemble the wheel.

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Image 1/2: Remove the four center-most screws from the bottom of the device with a Phillips #1 screwdriver. Image 2/2: Invert your device back to its original position, and completely remove the motor housing from the rest of the device.
  • After following the prerequisite guide, invert your device.

  • Remove the four center-most screws from the bottom of the device with a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

  • Invert your device back to its original position, and completely remove the motor housing from the rest of the device.

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Image 1/1: Completely remove the motor housing from the plastic.
  • Remove the eight screws attaching the metal motor housing to the plastic with a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

  • Completely remove the motor housing from the plastic.

  • In this picture, the optical encoder is attached to the end of the right-most motor. It has a black plastic case around it for protection.

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Image 1/1: Completely remove the motor from the metal backing. This will make it easier to move around when replacing the optical encoder.
  • Turn the device around, and remove the three screws attaching the left most motor to the metal backing using a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

  • Completely remove the motor from the metal backing. This will make it easier to move around when replacing the optical encoder.

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Image 1/2: Use the same amount of caution with this adapter as you did with all the others: don't pull directly on the wires and wiggle it out. Image 2/2: Remove the plastic casing by prying it off with a screwdriver or a plastic opening tool.
  • Remove the white 5-pin adapter from the end of the optical encoder.

  • Use the same amount of caution with this adapter as you did with all the others: don't pull directly on the wires and wiggle it out.

  • Remove the plastic casing by prying it off with a screwdriver or a plastic opening tool.

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Image 1/1: Be careful not to bend the light or the black receiver that stick up off the board. If they don't line up, your wheel won't be able to calibrate at all and you'll have a very hard time trying to line them back up.
  • Remove the two silver screws from the underside of the optical encoder with a Phillips #0 screwdriver, and the circuit will be free from the motor and ready to replace!

  • Be careful not to bend the light or the black receiver that stick up off the board. If they don't line up, your wheel won't be able to calibrate at all and you'll have a very hard time trying to line them back up.

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Image 1/3: Also make sure that the metal half-circle clip is placed properly inside the slot. Image 2/3: After placing the metal clip in the slot, place the plastic cog on top of the clip and on the rail. Image 3/3: After placing the metal clip in the slot, place the plastic cog on top of the clip and on the rail.
  • During reinstallation make sure when doing this step to align the stop on the wheel gear with the track as shown in the second and third pictures.

  • Also make sure that the metal half-circle clip is placed properly inside the slot.

  • After placing the metal clip in the slot, place the plastic cog on top of the clip and on the rail.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Grant Blake

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13 Comments

Where can you get the encoder to replace it?

invertig0 - Reply

Hello and thanks for the guide. I understand this might be off topic, but would you happen to know the pinout of the7-pin connector in step 5? There is no label on the pins. Thanks in advance for your time.

Georgios Arkouzis - Reply

Very much appreciate your assistance & time putting this together. I Chose the expoxy route. My wheel IS BACK!

Dave - Reply

Are you sure about Step 19 alignment. Some other guy with G25 says it has to be dead centre alligned otherwise you get blinking lights.And that's exactly what happens to me.

robertleskovsek - Reply

Hey, really big thanks for this guide! I opened my wheel and found the optical encoder broken as foreseen. Just bought the brass version, but for the first instance I fixed the encoder by wrapping some thin tape around the edges and cut off the rest. worked well, but is not meant for a long time use.

As I managed to make this fault, please add a hint that when rearranging the wheel (reverse step 1+2 the thin wheel button wires love to slip close to the bottom left and right screwholes with the risk to be squezzed between wheel and wheel hub. Now I have repaired the wheel function and wrecked the upper left button function :-)

fulgorth - Reply

Gracias a esta guía he podido reparar el volante G27. Muchas gracias.

urrielu - Reply

You can buy a printed version here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/4FDSWS...

It worked great for me, it shipped within a week and I'm using it now for over 2 years without any problems.

2 versions are sold: 30 and 60 slot encoder.

60 slot is for G25 and early G27 later G27 wheels use the 30 slot version.

RacingVictim - Reply

The three hub screws in step 6 refused to go all the way back in, and one of them stripped completely. If this happens to you, you can get shorter screws here to replace those very long screws - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA...

Obviously the screws being shorter means the wheel isn't as strongly attached to the base in this direction, so if you have to do this remember not to put unnecessary stress on these screws by pulling the wheel straight off the base.

Also the best replacement in terms of longevity for the encoder disk is the brass ones that you can order here, but shipping takes quite a while - http://cmlaserservice.com/index.html

I tried to 3D print one myself but it didn't work.

SouthernPotato - Reply

Hello, i repaired the old optical encoder. Now when i connect my wheel to PC the calibration works. But then PC doesn't "read" when im stearing. The other buttons are ok. Please help me what to do. Thanks

Tom Bubok - Reply

can you please share me the motor specifications?

Gokulraj S - Reply

Is this questin for me?

Tom Bubok -

yeah ! I need this motor specifications :)

Gokulraj S -

Repaired with this guide, thanks.

For the repair of the optical encoder I used a washer.

smigolxp - Reply

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