Introduction
This allows you to disassemble your LMP Easy mouse, for example to clean it or replace components. The instructions are probably also suitable for disassembling the LMP Master Mouse (Blutooth). However, I have not tried this because I only have two wired mice. If anyone has tried this, please give me feedback.
The wired LMP Easy mouse consists of several layers.
- at the top of the mouse is a top layer of shiny, very flexible plastic
- underneath is a cover made of sturdy plastic.
- under the cover is the circuit board with scroll wheel, connection cables and optical prism
- the circuit board itself rests in a holding cradle made of sturdy plastic
- The holding shell is located in a solid aluminum shell.
- Two silicone rails are glued to the underside of the aluminum shell.
What you need
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First remove the top layer of shiny flexible plastic.
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The plastic is more flexible when it is warm. It is sufficient to put the mouse in your pant pocket for a few minutes to warm up the plastic.
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The mouse buttons are pulled firmly upwards at the front and at the same time the top layer is stabilized at about the height of the rear end of the scroll wheel opening by pressing downwards with the thumb. This causes the retaining brackets on the underside of the cover layer to tilt and the lugs of the cover underneath to pop out.
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First release one mouse button. Then release the other mouse button.
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When both mouse buttons are free, the top layer can be carefully lifted further at the front until the rear bracket pops out.
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The cover layer is set aside.
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The second step is to remove the stabilizing plastic cover
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First remove the screw at the rear.
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Then carefully lift the cover from behind. (Caution! If necessary, only lever under the cover at the edge and not too deeply with a flat object, as the circuit board with sensitive components is underneath)
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To make the two retaining lugs at the very front of the mouse pop out, use a pick or spudger to press firmly downwards at an angle against the retaining brackets.
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The cover is set aside
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The circuit board is to be removed.
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The circuit board is fastened with four very small screws. The screws are loosened and the circuit board can be carefully removed. Be careful with the sensitive cables.
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If necessary, the plastic retaining shell can also be removed from the aluminum shell.
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The retaining shell is only stuck on. If the tray is very firmly attached to the guides, you can carefully insert a long thin object (I used a kitchen knife) between the aluminum and the plastic and gently lever the tray out.
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The silicone rails are only glued on. When taken apart, the aluminum shell can be safely heated. This loosens the adhesive and the rails can be removed.
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Glue the new rails on.
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First place the aluminum tray the right way up. The cable duct is at the front.
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The plastic retaining shell can simply be pressed back into the aluminum shell. The round recess for the large screw is at the back. The holder for the axle of the mouse wheel must be at the front.
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Before inserting the circuit board, the cable must first be routed correctly. The small nose of the cable's strain relief must point downwards and be pressed into the recess provided in the retaining shell.
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The connection cables must run diagonally to the rear left through the cable duct in the holding shell.
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The optical prism points with the thick end to the rear and must also lie under the circuit board.
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The circuit board can then be placed on top and screwed in place with the four small screws. The screws may have different lengths, in which case the long screws are used at the front and the shorter screws at the back. The screws are very thin (M1) and must only be tightened very lightly, otherwise the head will tear off the shaft.
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Once everything is firmly back in place where it should be, the cover can be replaced.
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The cover is first fitted at the rear and then the retaining lugs at the front are snapped into place with firm pressure.
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The cover is then secured with the large screw at the rear.
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Now only the top layer is missing.
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The front retaining brackets on the underside of the top layer are first inserted from the front into the corresponding lugs of the cover underneath.
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When the lugs are correctly positioned in the brackets, the top layer can be snapped into place by pressing firmly on the holder at the back of the mouse.
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