iPad 2 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Replace the Logic Board in your iPad 2 CDMA.

Use this guide to replace the logic board.

23 Edit Step 1 iOpener Heating  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

23 Edit Step 1 iOpener Heating  ¶ 

  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

Image 1/1: Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

Image 1/1: The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Edit Step 4 Front Panel  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

Edit Step 4 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Image 1/1: Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.
  • Again, as you may find yourself working with broken glass during this procedure, we strongly recommend wearing safety glasses for protection from flying shards.

  • Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.

  • Let the bag sit on the iPad for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the front panel.

Image 1/3: Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.
  • There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.

  • Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.

  • It may require some force to get the wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Work patiently and carefully, wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as necessary.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Make sure you place the tool in the proper spot—between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

1 Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

1 Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Keeping the tip of the plastic opening tool wedged between the front glass and plastic bezel, slide a plastic opening pick in the gap, right next to the plastic opening tool.

2 Edit Step 9  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

2 Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the plastic opening tool from the iPad, and push the opening pick further underneath the front glass to a depth of ~0.5 inches.

1 Edit Step 10  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

1 Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • While you work on releasing the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, reheat the iOpener, and replace it on the bottom edge of the iPad.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • While the bottom edge is being heated by the iOpener, begin releasing the adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.

  • Slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • The adhesive is very strong, and some serious force may be required. Work carefully.

  • If you can see the tip of the opening pick underneath the front glass, pull the pick out just a little bit. While using the opening pick this deep won't damage anything, it may get adhesive residue all over the LCD.

2 Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image 1/3: If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

2 Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • It may be necessary to move the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you release the adhesive. This depends on how long the iPad has been able to cool while you were working on it.

  • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Re-heat the iOpener, and move it to the top  edge of the iPad.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Before removing the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, insert a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.

  • Re-heat the iOpener, and move it to the top edge of the iPad.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

Image 1/1: The Wi-Fi antenna is attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad via screws and a cable. Because of the orientation of the Wi-Fi antenna, it is imperative to proceed with caution otherwise irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna may result.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • The next few steps require extreme caution.

  • The Wi-Fi antenna is attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad via screws and a cable. Because of the orientation of the Wi-Fi antenna, it is imperative to proceed with caution otherwise irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna may result.

  • You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the next steps carefully.

2 Edit Step 15  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Do not slide the pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so.

2 Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.

  • Do not slide the pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so.

6 Edit Step 16  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Do not completely remove the pick from under the front glass, but pull it out just a little bit so that ~1/8" of the tip is still under the front glass.

6 Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • This step requires you to move the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is very close to the corner and is easily severed if the adhesive is released improperly.

  • Do not completely remove the pick from under the front glass, but pull it out just a little bit so that ~1/8" of the tip is still under the front glass.

  • Slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.

1 Edit Step 17  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

1 Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.

  • Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

    • The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

Image 1/3: If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, reheat the iOpener to warm the adhesive where you are working.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Continue releasing the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad, pulling the opening pick out far enough to go around the home button, and re-inserting it to a depth of 1/2 inch once the pick is past the home button.

  • If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, reheat the iOpener to warm the adhesive where you are working.

  • Do not heat the iOpener more than a minute at a time, and always allow at least two minutes before reheating it.

3 Edit Step 19  ¶ 

Image 1/2: On iPad 4 models, insert the pick to a maximum depth of 1/2 inch in this area, to avoid damaging the home button ribbon cable.

3 Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Continue releasing the adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of the iPad.

    • On iPad 4 models, insert the pick to a maximum depth of 1/2 inch in this area, to avoid damaging the home button ribbon cable.

  • Leave the opening pick wedged underneath the front glass near the home button.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Reheat the iOpener in the microwave and set it on the left edge of the iPad to start warming the adhesive in that section.

3 Edit Step 21  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.

3 Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.

  • The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.

  • If the adhesive has cooled too much, replace the iOpener along the top edge and continue working. If the iOpener has cooled too much, reheat it.

  • If the opening pick is getting stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick as shown in step 9.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

Image 1/2: If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience. However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Continue releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner.

  • If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience. However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work.

3 Edit Step 23  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The digitizer cable is located approximately  2" from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.

3 Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

Image 1/2: The bottom of the digitizer cable is only ~1" from the bottom of the iPad. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner.

  • The bottom of the digitizer cable is only ~1" from the bottom of the iPad. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable.

3 Edit Step 25  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive.

3 Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers.

  • Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive.

6 Edit Step 26  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down.

6 Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad.

  • Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down.

Edit Step 27 LCD  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 27 LCD  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its display data cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • The front panel ribbon cables are connected beneath the LCD. To access them, you'll need to temporarily flip the LCD over and out of the way.

    • Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its display data cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.

  • Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.

  • Set the LCD face down on the front panel.

Edit Step 29 Headphone Jack Assembly  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.

Edit Step 29 Headphone Jack Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Run a plastic opening tool underneath the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to free it from the adhesive attaching the cable to the rear panel.

  • Pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws securing the headphone jack to the rear panel.

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Don't try to remove the assembly just yet.

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to help pull the headphone jack away from its recess in the top edge of the iPad.

  • Don't try to remove the assembly just yet.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Carefully peel the front camera and microphone cables off the rear panel.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front camera cable from the headphone jack cable.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Carefully remove the strip of tape covering the front camera cable connector.

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front camera cable from the headphone jack cable.

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Carefully peel the front camera cable off the bottom ribbon cable attached to the headphone jack.

Edit Step 35 Headphone Jack  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 35 Headphone Jack  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the microphone cable connector.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Remove the headphone jack from the iPad 2.

Edit Step 37 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flaps, '''not''' the sockets themselves.

Edit Step 37 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully flip up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves.

  • The retaining flaps are highlighted in red in the second picture.

1 Edit Step 38  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Carefully pull the digitizer cable off the adhesive securing it to the side of the rear case.

1 Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the digitizer cable off the shields on the logic board.

  • Carefully pull the digitizer cable off the adhesive securing it to the side of the rear case.

1 Edit Step 39  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

1 Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two sockets on the logic board.

4 Edit Step 40  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.

4 Edit Step 40  ¶ 

  • In order to remove the front panel assembly, the ribbon cable needs to slide out between the case and the LCD. You'll need to move the LCD to make some room.

    • Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.

  • Lift the LCD from its long edge farthest from the digitizer cable and gently flip it toward the rear case—like closing a book.

  • While holding the LCD up, gently slide the front panel away from the iPad. Be careful not to snag the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.

    • Set the LCD back into the body for safekeeping.

Edit Step 41 LCD Assembly  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.

Edit Step 41 LCD Assembly  ¶ 

  • In order to work on the iPad's innards, we need to flip the LCD back out of the case.

  • Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.

  • Set the LCD face down on a clean surface. You may want to rest it on a soft cloth to prevent scratches.

Edit Step 42 Logic Board  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Use a plastic opening tool to lift the display data cable lock upwards.

Edit Step 42 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Carefully lay the LCD next to the rear panel.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to lift the display data cable lock upwards.

  • Pull the display data cable out of its socket.

  • Do not pull the connector upward as you disconnect it from its socket.

Edit Step 43  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 43  ¶ 

  • Remove the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly.

Edit Step 44  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock connector cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 44  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to help remove the piece of tape covering the end of the dock connector cable.

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock connector cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Peel the dock connector ribbon cable off the rear panel.

Edit Step 45  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 45  ¶ 

  • Pry the speaker cable connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 46  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Remove the logic board bracket from the rear case.

Edit Step 46  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 2.1 mm Phillips screws securing the logic board bracket to the rear case near the digitizer cable socket.

  • Remove the logic board bracket from the rear case.

1 Edit Step 47  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Pull the connector away from its socket on the logic board.

1 Edit Step 47  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retainer securing the control board cable connector to its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the connector away from its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift the cable upward as you disconnect it.

Edit Step 48  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 48  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 2.6 mm Phillips screws securing the logic and communications boards to the rear panel.

2 Edit Step 49  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Do not lift the logic board too far off the back case. There are still antennas attached.

2 Edit Step 49  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the logic board up from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

  • Do not lift the logic board too far off the back case. There are still antennas attached.

Edit Step 50  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Rotate the logic board towards the center of the iPad and disconnect the last antenna at the top of the logic board.

Edit Step 50  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the top of the logic board and disconnect the two antennas on the left.

  • Rotate the logic board towards the center of the iPad and disconnect the last antenna at the top of the logic board.

  • Disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna at the bottom of the logic board.

Edit Step 51  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 51  ¶ 

  • Remove the logic board from the iPad 2.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strip guide to reattach the front panel.

Now that you've finished, share your repair story with others.

Write a story

102 Comments

I'm sorry, but I started laughing uncontrollably at this point! It's like something out of a Conan or Fallon sketch for the all but non sequitur of microwave use, but it's clearly what needs to be done for the glue. I came from a 2007 MBP, and personally replaced the battery multiple times (one step). I was curious about how it was done with my new 2014 model. 32 steps might as well be a punch line...

JeffH - Reply

Never get a job in IT support... I kid you not, earlier I had to instruct someone on how to plug the power jack into their laptop.....

daveoline -

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

A hairdryer works well - hot to the touch is enough to soften the glue to allow it to come off.

Gavin -

They do not use glue to attach the glass. It is very strong double sided 3M tape.

Odus182 -

a hair dryer might not be enough. If the temp is too low, the screen will crack on disassembely.

I use a heat gun now to loosen the adhesive. I wouldnt try to remove a screen unless the section was over 135 F ( I use a laser/non contact thermometer now).

I've only done one, but that was the lesson I learned the hard way watching the glass break.

xocornhole69 -

I use a hot plate to heat up my devices when needed and the recommended temp is 68 degrees C or 150 degrees F. This is hot enough to make the glue soft, but not hot enough to damage anything.

Trever Nordlund -

If I can't find the new screen how would I fix it. Where can I find the brand new screen.

Crissel Largo - Reply

There are screen replacements on eBay but it appears that you can only buy the digitizer glass. Is it difficult to separate the glass from the LCD screen? Some apple products are rather difficult while others already come separate.

loveofthegame441 - Reply

No, super easy, the LCD and glass are actually not adhered to each other, the glass sits in the moulding about 1 or 2 cm above the LCD.

Brice -

Hi. I need the same. Did you solve it? I find the spare parts: the external crystal and the glue (adhesive stick) but I have some doubts: How separate brocken cristal from usable lcd and how Stick the new crystal with lcd.

domenico sicignano -

Difficult? Yes. Impossible? No. But putting it back together is the really tricky part. I found a German video that goes into it. You don't need to understand German to see what's involved here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvWPfUhp...

Pete -

for the screen, there's a place in Huntsville Alabama called LCDcycle. they have grade a parts

livinginthegump - Reply

Could some one help me please im changing the wifi antenna on my ipad air an don't knoew how to activate the glue on the growding strip. I would think it heat. any ideas thank you.

danielalanreed - Reply

I don't own a microwave... Is there an alternative way you can recommend heating up the iOpener?

margo - Reply

Yes, buy a microwave. They cost about the same as an iOpener!!

seaniepie -

I use a heat gun and work fine for me.

Danilo -

I used my toaster oven, set it to 200. I tried lower temps but wasn't able to separate the glass from the frame.

Pete -

Boil it? ...(in a ziplock in water so it doesn't get wet before you use it on electronics).

OrnateFreak -

My rear glass is broken what will be the price of thr rear glass..???can i order it from ifixit suggest me some thing.....!!!!i m from india....help me out plz...!!!

Abhishek Dutta - Reply

Any rear glass for any phone is cheap. They generally cost around $5-$20 to get the part depending on which phone. For this one it doesn't cost much at all.

Ben -

Always isolate the battery before removing the LCD, and don't reconnect the battery till the LCD is back in place.

You can screw up a few different things by inadvertently turning on a device while the LCD is disconnected.

Also, skip the neck warmer/microwave, get a hot plate or hair drier/heat gun and be careful. (I use a duel sensor digital temp hot plate)

David - Reply

What is the LCD used for? Is that the main screen that has the display?

virgilio ingram - Reply

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

This repair isn't possible as far as I know. I have done three glass only repairs now with the same results. After professionally separating the glass and LCD, then re-attaching the AMOLED screen to the NEW digitizer/glass assembly with OCA tape the touch would no longer work... strange since I tried a new digitizer on each Apple Watch I was repairing. I started looking a little closer to the broken digitizer and I removed the silver chip cover to reveal the touch/digitizer controller IC. This extremely small BGA chip is epoxied directly to the flex cable, so removing the chip is a one time thing as you can't remove epoxy chemically after it cures. Each touch/digitizer controller IC is INDIVIDUALLY MARKED with a number, for example #1510. I believe each touch IC is LINKED to each Apple Watch, but it is possible that each IC is linked only to the LCD screen. I can not confirm that is the case because I do not have access to a full LCD/digi/glass to try replacing on a broken apple watch.

Don - Reply

I have same problem as Don...touch doesn't work after changing

romnaum -

Any update about the touch not working after replacing the screen?

Matt Jones -

The repair is possible but it is a hard one. I just finished it (again). Use ALOT of heat to remove the glass. Take your time not to break the LCD. Separate all the parts before the removing the battery. The repair is hard, not impossible.

mattost -

Hi. Do you suggest to change both part to avoid that? I mean, I have only the external part broke and I think to buy only that, but after reading your comment, I realize that maybe is better to change both of screen+LCD at once. It is right?

domenico sicignano -

How can you reprogram the watch to accept a new digitizer? Is there a way?

DeJaNeal Brown -

Key is to check if the ribbon cable of the digitizer is put in properly. I had the same problem. The first attempt failed because I hadn't pulled the ribbon cable deep enough into the connector. Make sure that all of the silverish parts go into the connector. But please be extremely careful with that!

jochen -

Can anyone verify that the part sold on ifixits website will work? I bought a digitizer/glass only from eBay and no touch response from it. Other people here are claiming the IC chip is programmed to either the watch CPU or the amoled itself.

Here is the part on ifixits website:

Apple Watch (42 mm) Front Glass Digitizer

greg - Reply

Dont buy it from ifixit. Nothing wrong with ifixit though. The glass and LCD is infused together. You will not be able to separate the broken glass from the LCD. Do whatever, heat, more heat, dance or any other stunt it doesnt come off. Even if it comes off i don't think just by putting in another digitizer it will start working as it will not be infused with LCD. so net net. the video is good and stylish but it doesnt work.

Suresh Iyer -

I already separated it successfully and have all the tools to reassemble professionally including OCA and a autoclave.

greg -

Did you had difficult to separate the parts? I bought a screen on Ebay before read iFixit, :(

deivier5 -

Just put mine together and tested it; working great.

Golden Neckbeard -

So I followed the steps and it all seemed easy. When I tried to turn it on the blue light just pulsed, and the screen stayed black. I did a full charge and tried a power+volume down, which did turn it off, but when I turn it on I still only get blue pulsing light with a black screen. Any ideas? Not sure if its a bad battery, or if I could have messed something else up? Thanks in advance for the help.

Dawson - Reply

It is ver likely that the glass you are trying to replace is broken, and this is tempered glass therefore it will chatter in many small pieces while you are working on it. Take this safety advice very seriously and protect your eyes!!! The glass pieces fly everywhere. AGAIN: PROTECT YOUR EYES!!!! BE SAFE!!!

McGiord - Reply

This last statement cannot be underemphasized! I got two shards of very fine glass into my right eye, luckily got them out right away, before reaching for the safety goggles! Later on, I removed them again because working w/ the small parts was easier. Protect your eyes, people!

Lou Bomski -

Just use some scotch wide transparent tape and cover the broken screen BEFORE you start to taking it apart. It will hold all the shards together and nothing will fly around.

Vatevaaa -

I covered the screen in clear packing tape to control glass particles.

I placed the ipad outside in direct afternoon sunlight for an hour and all of the adhesive was softened quite well.....the screen was off in just a few minutes !

John - Reply

This is a very good idea John, I wish I'd seen this comment before I spent hours picking tiny bits of glass off the glue!

Tom Scott -

Thumbs up for this tip. I left it out in the sun for 15 min only and it worked a treat. I used a razor blade. The plastic tools are next to useless.

olafgoy -

I had some issues after replacing this cable.

Once I had it in and back together only the down volume was working, and shortly after the gyro gave out.

I ended up going to where the new cable connects to the board, removing it, then replacing it as gently as possible. Not too firm.

I also removed a foam spacer in that area because it was pushed out over the gyro board.

Now I'm back to full functionality!

clatekeen - Reply

me 2 my volumen up doesn't work and the switch sound/silent any fix?

Zadd -

Badly broken screen, taped and warmed about 15 minutes on heating pad set on high. Perfect, gentle, overall warming! Mark the front with Sharpie, ie WiFi, cable, etc. Used thin metal iSes... type tool and guitar pics. BUY NEW Plastic bezel!!! So super cheap. Rewarm on heating pad as necessary. Compressed air helpful to blow away tiny glass bits. Wear glasses! Take breaks! This is easy if you warm carefully and are patient!

Max - Reply

I am in the process of replacing a shattered screen on an iPad 3 wifi, and I literally was removing glass piece by piece! I do recommend having a roll of wide clear sealing tape at hand. Then, when you see loose glass shards, pull off about 4 to 5 inches, and stick the tape to pick up the loose glass, and once in a while, fold the tape onto itself (sticky to sticky side), and set it aside. This helps keep it from getting everywhere. Also, spread news paper under your work. Some people don't really think of these things, but the fact is, hardened glass will find its way into your skin very easily. Extremely sharp!

dbrown900 - Reply

there is the power flex cable near the top right side of the screen. It could be damaged is not careful.

ChiangFeng Li - Reply

Yes, I severed this one on my first attempt. Might note that you want to start prying open below the sound controls. Additionally I found that a razor was helpful in getting the first pic into the device. Obviously you want to be careful as a razor could cause some serious damage, but I just used the tip of the metal to get some space to fit a pick.

Nick Dresang - Reply

Maybe I was doing it wrong, but the plastic opening tool I was using kept bending before it was prying anything apart. Therefore I suggest using either a metal spudger or a razor blade to make the very first opening but being VERY careful. My assistant/wife later scratched the LCD going overboard with the metal tools.

Logan Kennedy - Reply

There is a way of making the Wifi/Bluetooth Antenna replacement much easier. If you have a steady hand and a soldering iron simply desolder the connecting cable from the bottom of the antenna and solder it back onto the new antenna. This means there is no need to dismantle the iPad and the repair is much faster. Hope this helps :-)

Richard - Reply

The process was pretty straightforward, you do need to be careful in a few spots (like the wifi antenna in the lower right) but overall I found it to be of medium level of difficulty.

It took me 2.5hrs to slowly dismantle and replace the broken screen.

Here are some tips I learned while doing it:

- instead of plastic spudger, better to use kit knife or razor blade. I found plastic to bend and malform quite easily.

- watch out for lower right corner where wifi antenna sits, it's easy to damage it

- if you have a cracked screen, use protective goggles - i used tape to secure broken glass pieces together, but that didn't quite work and lots of glass was flying as I was prying the screen off the ipad

- opening tool you put in the microwave sold here is not worth it - didn't do that great for me. I mostly used a hair drier and was very successful melting adhesive

- tools I'd only need again to do it again - guitar picks, kit knife, phillips screwdriver, hair drier :D

Overall, I found it to be quite interesting project!

michalmotykiewicz - Reply

Seconding the problem about plastic components. They just aren't strong / precise enough to fight this glass. Save them for the really nasty bits like the wifi cable, and use an X-Acto or equivalent everywhere else.

Golden Neckbeard -

Had much more success using the metal spudger versus the plastic opening tool that came with the front panel kit.

Paul Boyer - Reply

I had success using Paddle Pop sticks instead of guitar picks. (not sure what they are called in the US). The guitar picks tended to deform and melt with the heat of my hot gun. The glue used to attach the screen is just amazingly strong! It takes a lot of patience to remove all the fragments. I have done about 6 screens now and it is a turdful job!

Jack - Reply

I think we call those popsicle sticks. They seem kind of thick for this, at least a lot thicker than a guitar pick.

John -

It is not glue, they use a very strong double sided 3M tape

Odus182 -

Pay attention to the Power Button cable located in the upper right corner !!!

Nathan - Reply

Successful battery change but I did sever the cord/ribbon to the power/sleep button. As my iPad had been opened before at a repair shop, I think they put adhesive over the cord as the small section was stuck underneath the LCD, barely visible. So be careful not to put adhesive above that exposed ribbon/cord to the power/sleep button or the next time you open it up, it's severed.

Breadman - Reply

On the iPad 2 I repaired, the opening started at 1 inch and ended at 3mm.

Justin H - Reply

My screen was too broken for this "heat, cut with picks, and leave in place" method to work anywhere but the top, where it was essentially undamaged.

I wound up using a spudger through all the cracked sections to pry upwards just *inside* the perimeter of the adhesive, intentionally breaking the digitizer and the glass further, until I could remove the entire front panel except for the adhered portions - about half the perimeter in my case.

I then used tools to pry up the glass from the *opposite* direction, that is the broken interior edge I had earlier created, thus not having to fight the bezel and also having a clear line of sight to any interior components I might be damaging.

Of course, doing it this way made it much easier to drop tiny shards of glass all over the interior, but I found a little diligent cleaning much easier than trying to keep the glass intact while breaking the glue, as in this guide.

Golden Neckbeard - Reply

It should be noted that the glass can be much more difficult to remove when it is cracked and shattered (as is usually the reason for replacement) . Depending on the location and severity of the cracks, the order and technique of removal requires modification.

I have found that putting a layer of clear packing tape over the entire screen is helpful, wether it's cracked or not. It will prevent the spraying of glass shards, should the glass break while separating the adhesive; with a broken screen, it should eliminate the risk of cutting yourself during removal, as well as hold all the pieces together. Unfortunately, it also makes the iOpener slightly less effective, so peel it back when applying it. Suction cups can also be helpful during final removal of the glass.

Having a hot air gun/pencil can be helpful in removing smaller pieces if broken glass that remain once the bulk of it is removed.

Nick V - Reply

Just trashed an I pad... Not an electronics person. Did an iphone 5 battery with no problems was following instructions and once I hit the next step I realized I had already screwed up the screen... Moving forward tring to unhook LCD pictures are not very clear on which direction to push or pull so broke that... Now writing a review on it... Take it to a pro if you aren't certain!

rondiedonelson - Reply

I have found that its better to put more than one pick down the side of the screen to keep it open and prevent it from sticking back down.

Roberto Enrieu - Reply

The volume power button cable is really close to the edge and is frequently loose and non adherent to the frame. If your pick is deep into the iPad, you are almost sure to cut the cable. Be very cautious around the top right corner of the iPad.

silvain1038 - Reply

I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.

nickmalmquist - Reply

Be sure to have a replacement Bluetooth Wi-Fi antenna because it is very likely to get the cable broken at this step.

McGiord - Reply

Be extremely careful and patient at this step. Proceed slowly with only the tip ( 1/16th in. - 2mm max.) of the pick. There are two tinny screws that attach the bottom of the antenna to the iPad frame. This antenna part is easly severed if the pick goes too far.

Happenned to me and had to replace the antenna.

Marc Bouchard - Reply

I nearly broke my wifi antenna because I didn't read this whole step clearly and didn't go backwards and release the antenna from the front panel. Admittedly, this is my own fault but I've edited the step to make this point more clear.

Logan Kennedy - Reply

My screen was way too shattered for me to be able to use the screen instructions as suggested, so I followed the general principal but ignored the order around, because that simply wouldn't have worked...and destroyed the antenna.

Maybe step one should be "BE CAREFUL IN THIS CORNER OR YOU WILL BREAK THE ANTENNA!" A diagram highlighting where all the cables (antenna, digitiser, volume, toggle switch) lie with the screen still attached would be helpful too.

HRB - Reply

Or maybe you should have read the entire thing before starting if you were not planing on following it step by step

Hawesg Garrett -

I Broke my antenna like many others. It is glued to the glass and has 1mm thick foam backing that is also glued to the inner case. Then there is a tiny grounding connector screwed at the lower edge of the case. Once you can get things loosened up around this antenna, you will need to detach this antenna from the glass. Work at it with your picks or spudger until you get it free, if you do not get it to release from the glass you will break the grounding ribbon. I bought a cheap aftermarket antenna on amazon for $3. turns out it has a bad cable coming from it. I was able to unsolder the cable from the one I broke and solder it to the new antenna.

chrisnewitt - Reply

This BEGS for an Archer "Just The Tip" reference.

Christian - Reply

It wasn't obvious to me at first that I'd broken the antenna. A picture of the antenna that works compared with one that is broken would be useful. Fortunately I'd ordered the replacement part just in case, as suggested.

I think using extra heat on this spot may make it easier to unstick without breaking the antenna?

A diagram of what the antenna looks like, from the side, would make it clearer what to do with the pick. You are trying to detach the antenna from the glass, without ripping it off where it's screwed into the bottom of the ipad. Since you can't see what you are doing, and the antenna is quite fragile, that's tricky.

I think once you've broken one you would know better how to do it. When you slide the pick to the right you need to be sure the pick is moving above the antenna and not snagging on it in any way, and you need to be sure the antenna is completely detached from the glass, so you don't tear it when you lift the glass up.

Chris Jordan - Reply

Be extremely cautious on this step! I did it wrong and my antenna went to !@#$.

Lars Lien Ankile - Reply

This should include details about the Home Button Ribbon Cable. Unlike an iPad 3 (which doesn't have this cable) the iPad 4 has a Home Button Ribbon Cable that runs along the left side of the Home Button and is adhered to the glass. If the guitar pick is inserted too far (more than 0.5") it is possible to damage or sever this cable.

robjpete - Reply

There is a reason this is an iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC-2560 repair guide. This guide isn't for iPad 3 or 4...

Christian -

I think the guides carry common steps between them. I'm reading this string of comments on multiple ipad 3/4 repair guides.

Anticept - Reply

In my case I damaged the right GSM antenna which was somehow sticked to the front panel... Be really careful as I really didn't felt that I was damaging anything...

MattLise Gaillzik - Reply

+1 on the right 3g antenna - it is adhered to the glass and I cut right through it with the opening pick. The replacement included adhesive to re-stick it to the glass, so this is a definite feature of this antenna. This is a thin film similar to the wifi antenna, so maybe going around it at a shallow depth from the corner to the camera and then returning to the corner slightly deeper would allow you to separate the antenna from the glass without damaging it.

doog - Reply

Be very careful when going around the front camera, I cracked my screen by prying up too much and causing too much stress!

Rowdydtk - Reply

The second photo does not show the iPad 4's Home Button Ribbon Cable.

robjpete - Reply

Because this is for an iPad 2

Odus182 -

This is the hardest part the digitizer cable runs the length of this side and u have to be very carefull with the pick . Only go in an 1/8 inch I severed it by going the half (recommended) luckily I had a new screen standing by . I used I opener for heating and it was slow but ok.

wperrin623 - Reply

Should be right-hand corner

longg - Reply

Be very careful when pushing the guitar pick around the corner of the power/volume buttons. The ribbon cable for these buttons may be stuck to the adhesive and break when lifting the screen or when sliding the pick along this area. I have done 4 iPad 2 repairs and at least one of the delicate components do not make it. I would recommend ordering a wi-fi/bluetooth antenna, bezel with strips, and a power/volume cable. It is nice to have a "just-in-case" part or two, they are very inexpensive. I noticed that the I tended to break one of these delicate components when the screen was shattered in the area of those components.

thetechandtutor - Reply

I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.

nickmalmquist - Reply

Check to the right of the Home button to see if the wifi/bluetooth antenna is still stuck to the glass side or has released. If it is still stuck to the glass use the guitar pick to carefully scrape it off. If your goal is to replace the antenna, then you needn't be so careful.

jerry81 - Reply

Be very careful not to touch the LCD. It's a pain to remove smudges. One thing that might help when you need to hold it while reattaching it during reassembly: attach a small suction cup to the metal side. That way you can avoid touching the sides where your hand might slip to the LCD side.

patjmccarthy - Reply

Do you need to use some adhesive strips to remount the plastic bezel? The bezel I ordered didn't come with any and the ones you can order only seem to have strips for mounting the glass and not the bezel.

James - Reply

You'd better. The original bezel is glued. You can find 3mm fine/double-sided (black) tape on Amazon. I use it when I replace the bezel because they fit perfectly under the bezel. I use for all sorts of repairs on iPhones, Samsungs, etc. Such as this [one|http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIS...]

Rany -

In order to prevent touching the LCD screen with your finger(s), I use the thin plastic food wrapper to cover it. It will temporary stick to the LCD screen and provide excellent protection from fingerprints.

Th Th - Reply

you can use latex gloves to keep smudges and finger prints from the screen. I'm getting ready to repair mine, thanks for all the comments and tips. Btw, I wonder if a vacuum cleaner would work for removing small pieces of glass.

De Dios sept.10 2014

dediosjon - Reply

It is a really good idea to apply a bit of heat to this ribbon cable prior to removal. Ribbon cables that are held in place with adhesive can tear easily. Taking a moment to warm it up will help make the removal much easier.

Joshua - Reply

After I replaced the digitizer only half the screen is working. Any reason for this problem ?

Pedro Trindade - Reply

(Step 14 should be deleted.)

John Cain - Reply

why it should be deleted?

i think it's necessary to remove the digitizer cable before we lift up the logicboard

Can Han -

It should go without saying, but anytime you are handling the LCD, try to only touch the edges. Otherwise you'll be scrubbing fingerprints for 15 minutes. Not that I'm speaking from personal experience or anything.

Ed Chapman - Reply

random question...........1 problem i've ran into in the past is the digitizer cable is so long on aftermarket screens the adhesive isn't strong enough to hold the glass down around the digitizer area where it is folded.

would it help to have a 2nd person tilt glass straight up off table and tuck some extra cable under the lcd or will this cause a problem with the lcd itself?

Jason S - Reply

Before proceeding to the next step, you must disconnect the headphone jack and camera cable from the left side of the logic and communications board. See "Front-Facing Camera Replacement Guide", steps 11 thru 14.

William Madigan - Reply

You guys are missing the front-facing camera & headphone cable in these instructions/pictures. They exist on the Wifi instructions, but the CDMA iPad2 I am working on now has them as well.

That cable makes the replacement of the antenna cables at the TOP of the logic board devilishly difficult. I've been at it for an hour and am having no luck so far.

John Aydelotte - Reply

Also, which cable attaches where would be helpful -- I'm probably doing it backwards since I didn't get a good look at which was where before they popped off the logic board.

John Aydelotte - Reply