iMac Intel 27" EMC 2429 Hard Drive Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace the hard drive in an iMac Intel 27" EMC 2429.

This guide will help you replace/upgrade the hard drive.

Edit Step 1 Glass Panel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Glass Panel  ¶ 

  • Stick a heavy-duty suction cup near each of the two top corners of the glass panel.

  • To attach the suction cups, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel (as highlighted in the second picture).

  • While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle (as highlighted by the third picture).

  • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a damp soft, lint-free cloth. (Dampen with distilled water, and if needed, an equal ratio of distilled water and white vinegar for best results.)

  • Do not use the suction cups to carry the display glass because if one of them fails to stick, you could drop the screen and break it.

  • The original iMac box makes a good place to store the glass panel. Otherwise, a padded horizontal surface, like a towel on a desk will do nicely.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel.

  • Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside.

  • During reinstallation, be sure to meticulously clean the inside of the glass panel and the face of the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is turned on.

Edit Step 3 Display  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 Display  ¶ 

  • Remove the eight T10 Torx screws securing the LCD to the outer case.

  • Be careful not to touch the display as the oil from your fingers may leave a residue that can be difficult to remove.

  • If necessary, peel the EMI gaskets located near the top center edge of the display assembly.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Carefully lay the iMac stand-side down on a flat surface.

  • Due to tight tolerances, you will have to use a thin hooked tool to lift the display out of the outer case. As seen in the first picture, we made one out of a bent paperclip.

    • Alternatively, our Dual Hard Drive Kit includes a pair of tweezers with an angled tip that are great for this task.

  • Use a thin hooked tool to lift one side of the top edge of the display by its steel outer frame.

  • After lifting the top edge of the display on one side, hold it out of the outer case while you use a hooked tool to lift the other side.

  • Raise and hold the display high enough to access the cables.

  • Do not lift the top edge of the display out of the outer case too far, as several short ribbon cables still connect the two components.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the vertical sync cable in the upper left corner of the screen. Use the tip of a spudger to push on the connector's side tabs and gently walk it out of its socket.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • This step bring your hands close to the exposed rear of the power supply. To avoid a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board, do not touch the rear of the power supply.

  • Disconnect the LED back light driver cable with your hand by pressing the tab down and sliding it towards the bottom of the display.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Pull the black tab straight up to disconnect the latch on the display data cable ZIF connector.

  • Do not pull up too hard or you will damage the connector and socket.

  • Continue to pull the black tab up toward the top of the device, to detach the display data cable.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display power cable next to the display data cable.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the iMac case.

Edit Step 10 Hard Drive  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the SATA power and data cables from the hard drive by pulling them straight away from the hard drive.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the two T10 Torx screws securing the hard drive to the iMac frame.

  • Slightly rotate the top edge of the hard drive away from the outer case.

  • Lift the hard drive off its two lower positioning pins and remove it from the outer case.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the upper bracket to the hard drive.

  • Remove the upper bracket from the hard drive.

  • Remove the two T8 Torx pins from the other side of the hard drive.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Carefully peel off the piece of EMI foam attached to the front of the hard drive.

  • Don't forget to transfer this to your new hard drive.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iMac Intel 27" EMC 2429 device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

TR10 Torx Security Screwdriver

$1.95 · 50+ In stock

Heavy-Duty Suction Cups (Pair)

$14.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Magnetic Project Mat

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Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Note that if you are replacing the hard drive with a non-Apple hard drive, then you will have problems with the fan running full speed constantly (see http://blog.macsales.com/10206-further-e...). Basically, you'll need to either install a $30 piece of software to control the fans or short out some wires.

jashugan, · Reply

remember after the glass, to get the aluminum front off, remove the bay for the memory upgrade on the bottom first before you remove the torx screws ans lift to access the bottom case (Between step 2 and 3)

Killen Prophet, · Reply

I'm looking to replace my 3.5" HDD in my iMac (mid-2011) with a 2.5" SSD. Will I need an adapter for this?

admiralpumpkin, · Reply

Absolutly. You can buy a official one on the Apple Store. I reccommend the dual-drive (HDD & SDD) tho.

marijndepraetere,

There are kits that have a thermal circuit and plug between the hard drive and cables to the 3.5" drive to allow other non-apple drives to be installed and still have the fans and diagnostics function normally. No need to short or modify fan speed with software that won't adjust for temperature properly. You just attach the thermal sensor to the drive and plug it in. Usually range from $50-$80 just for the cable, I'm really shocked I can't find them available from ifixit! Just ordered one from the US source.

westly197, · Reply

I successfully replaced my old 2TB HITACHI 3.5" drive (had only 50% health after 2 years left - monitored with "DriveDX") with a SEAGATE SSHD 2TB (+8GB SSD) 3.5" drive and everything works smoothly, INCLUDING TEMPERATURE AND FAN CONTROL (temperature can be read and "Macs fan control" adjusts the fan just right). I cloned my drive with "CarbinCopyCloner" before replacement and I just needed to press ALT when booting, selecting "Recovery" and point to the newly installed drive under "Restart from" (Do this if you see the folder icon with question mark)

eric, · Reply

Eric where did you get this drive?

wjspencer,

It looks like "SSD Fan Control" http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ might be an alternative to using the "OWC In-line Digital Thermal Sensor for iMac 2011 Hard Drive Upgrade"

Maybe I should send some bucks to "exirion" for providing the software without charge - there is a donation button.

johann beda, · Reply

I have replaced a few hard drives lately. But on this occasion I replaced the drive with an SSD one and the computer powers on but the screen remains blank. I have checked all the cables are attached. Tried putting the original drive back in. Still blank. any ideas anyone?

info theiMan, · Reply

quick and easy, took me about 20 minutes to swap it out. no problems with fan speed or anything else.

dylanishihara, · Reply

FAN SPEED PROBLEM -> FIXED FOR FREE

When replacing HD with same (newer model) type and brand the fan-full-speed problem still occurred. Reason: All HD's not sold by Aplle Store don't have required special apple firmware to handle the Apple built-in fan controls. Fix: FREE program: http://www.crystalidea.com/products?ref=... Don't spend money.

OVERHEAT PROBLEM / CLICKING HD

My medio 2001 iMac heats more then box windows pc: large screen that generates heat very close to components. When you hear the HD "click click", it's safe to say your HD is running too hot. Play with settings in Mac Fan Control prog to find the "no click"-setting. Check manual HD.

SLOW MAC = HOT MAC = BURNING HARD DRIVE TOO MUCH

Macrunning slow? check available RAM in Activity Monitor. If it's less then 1 gig, by some more. Dead cheap at +- 50$ / 4 gig.

EU USERS OF IFIXIT

1) Google for iFixIt Europe to find a German based webstore.

2) Buy kit + the screwset, the screws are USA type.

It's dead easy, took me 30 min.

Good luck!

marijndepraetere, · Reply

Question for folks. I have a 3TB drive (WD Caviar Green) that is out of an Apple Time Capsule (the wireless bit died) that I was going to put into my iMac. It's got the Apple logo on it. Does anyone know if this will work without needing the cable or special software?

wyn, · Reply

I did this upgrade - Samsung 850 EVO SSD - Adaptadrive & Sensor. The computer won't start now - won't even try to start. I think that the connection at the very top left of the screen to the back might not be correct - it might be broken. How do I deal with that? I went to an authorized Apple store and they said they won't look at it because I messed with it on my own.

Theresa S, · Reply

You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

Nick Caron, · Reply

Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

jtowner, · Reply

Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

Eddie, · Reply

Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.

Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

Frank303, · Reply

I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

Allen Borza,

you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

Lau, · Reply

do you still have this panel?

Alpha Dimension,

Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

ganesh, · Reply

I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

Jay Gillibrand, · Reply

Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.

maccentric, · Reply

Just skip step 6,7,8 and 9 with this powerful tools: two bic pen holding the frame.

Look at pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5jwam38drgcov...

fabio4, · Reply

I also used two pens to hold the display panel up and I had to detach only the vertical sync cable from the display on step 5. Much easier!

Timo Laak,

Hello Fabio, can you please re-up the picture? It doesnt seem to be online anymore :(

Thanx a bunch!

Esteban Garcia,

i mess up my date zif connector is it fixable?

LUIS, · Reply

me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.

I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.

strcarlos, · Reply

This image is 100% inaccurate. My mac has a different style connector that needed to be pinched on each side to release the cable.

Alex Nelson, · Reply

Its not 100% incorrect for him as this was his connector. It was only incorrect for you.

asthomas,

The ZIF display cable is tricky to get back in. I would suggest that this cable be the first one to be put back during reassembly. You need maximum wiggle room and visibility for this. Push in the display power cable *after* this one.

ganesh, · Reply

When I opened up my iMac, I was surprised at how dusty it was inside. You might want to have a vacuum cleaner handy to vacuum up the dust inside the case. Be careful not to vacuum up the screws, though!

johnhugh, · Reply

FYI...I did this fix, upgraded my mid 2011 27" to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD Hard Drive. Everything went great except for two parts...

1. When I started up with my install media I got a three beep error and I could not install. I ended up using the CRTL-R at startup and did a network install that downloads an image of the original OS that comes with the system and allows you to install with the correct file.

2. Hard drive fan was spinning at full speed the whole time. This was annoying to say the least. Another person on this thread commented on this and said that you had to buy a $30 piece of software to fix it, I actually found another one that is free and works quite well (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/).

zackduchene, · Reply

Just completed the upgrade and put a 1TB SSD in. I have used this software and seems to do a good job. http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...

adrianh,

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