MacBook Unibody Model A1342 Antenna Cables Replacement

Replace worn-through antenna cables for better wireless reception.

Use this guide to replace fatigue damaged antenna cables routed inside the display.

Sections

5 Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

5 Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the eight 4 mm Phillips screws securing the lower case to the MacBook.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Slightly lift the lower case near the vent opening.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • The lower case is constructed of rubber-coated aluminum. Do not excessively bend the aluminum during removal, as any permanent deformation will cause tolerance issues after reassembly.

  • Slightly lift the lower case near the vent opening.

  • Continue running your fingers between the lower and upper cases until the upper case pops off its retaining clips.

  • The location of these three clips is shown in the third picture.

6 Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

6 Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge. This step is optional and is not required.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It may be easier to use your fingernails to lift up on both sides of the connector.

1 Edit Step 4 Rear Vent  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Two 10 mm T8 Torx

1 Edit Step 4 Rear Vent  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws from the optical drive side of the rear vent:

    • Two 10 mm T8 Torx

    • Two 5.2 mm Phillips

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Two 10 mm T8 Torx

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws from the port side of rear vent:

    • Two 10 mm T8 Torx

    • Two 5.2 mm Phillips

4 Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

4 Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the rear vent out of the upper case.

Edit Step 7 Display  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 7 Display  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 3 mm Phillips screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth antenna ground strap to the rear speaker.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image 1/2: De-route the long antenna from its channel in the rear speaker housing.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the AirPort and Bluetooth antenna connectors (3 total) up off the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

  • De-route the long antenna from its channel in the rear speaker housing.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

Image 1/2: There is also a thin metal lock clip under the plastic tab that has to be released ( Use the tip of a spudger ) before you can disconnect the display data cable.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • There is also a thin metal lock clip under the plastic tab that has to be released ( Use the tip of a spudger ) before you can disconnect the display data cable.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Pull the socket parallel to the face of the logic board.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Gently pull the display data cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the socket parallel to the face of the logic board.

  • The display data cable socket is made of very thin metal and is easily bent. Be sure to pull the connector straight away from its socket.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Place your opened MacBook on a table as pictured.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Open your MacBook so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

  • Place your opened MacBook on a table as pictured.

  • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining 7.8 mm with lock washer T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

  • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

Image 1/2: The display data cable may cause the upper display bracket to get caught on the upper case. It may be helpful to slightly rotate the upper case away from the display  for more clearance.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

  • The display data cable may cause the upper display bracket to get caught on the upper case. It may be helpful to slightly rotate the upper case away from the display for more clearance.

  • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

Edit Step 15 Front Display Bezel  ¶ 

Image 1/3: '''Do not''' try to insert the spudger between the thin rubber strip and the plastic face of the front display bezel.

Edit Step 15 Front Display Bezel  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the thin rubber strip surrounding the front display bezel and the rear display bezel.

  • Do not try to insert the spudger between the thin rubber strip and the plastic face of the front display bezel.

  • Use the flat end of your spudger to carefully pry the front display bezel away from the adhesive securing it to the rear display bezel.

  • Do not pry against the fragile glass LCD panel. Also, do not excessively bend the plastic as it may permanently deform.

  • Continue prying until the front display bezel is free along the right side of the display and behind the right clutch hinge.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

Image 1/2: It may be helpful to insert and twist the flat end of your spudger to enlarge the gap between the front & rear display bezels as you work your way around the edge of the display.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the front display bezel off the top edge of the display assembly.

  • It may be helpful to insert and twist the flat end of your spudger to enlarge the gap between the front & rear display bezels as you work your way around the edge of the display.

  • Continue separating until the top edge of the front display bezel is free from the display assembly.

  • Be careful when prying near the iSight camera board, as it has exposed circuitry and is delicate.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Carefully pry up the area behind the left clutch hinge.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Use your spudger to pry the left side of the front display bezel away from the display assembly.

  • Carefully pry up the area behind the left clutch hinge.

  • During reassembly, be sure the small plastic pegs on the front display bezel mate up with the holes in the rear display bezel (shown in red). Failure to do so will prevent the front display bezel from sitting flush against the rear bezel.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Be sure to pry up as far away from the LCD as possible, as it extends below the edge of the front display bezel.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Slowly work your way across the lower edge of the front display bezel until it is free from the display assembly.

  • Be sure to pry up as far away from the LCD as possible, as it extends below the edge of the front display bezel.

  • When you get about half way across, pry up from the other side of the front display bezel's lower edge to ease the process.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

Image 1/1: To help the adhesive avoid losing is tackiness, do not excessively handle the adhesive and be sure to keep it clean until you are ready for installation.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Remove the front display bezel from the display assembly.

  • To help the adhesive avoid losing is tackiness, do not excessively handle the adhesive and be sure to keep it clean until you are ready for installation.

Edit Step 20 Clutch Cover  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 20 Clutch Cover  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 3 mm Phillips screws securing the clutch cover to the rear display bezel.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Pry up from both sides of the clutch cover until it is completely free from the display assembly.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the open end of the clutch cover and pry up to release it from the rear display bezel.

  • Pry up from both sides of the clutch cover until it is completely free from the display assembly.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Remove the clutch cover from the display assembly.

Edit Step 23 LCD  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Four 3.4 mm Phillips.

Edit Step 23 LCD  ¶ 

  • Remove following six screws securing the LCD to the rear display bezel:

    • Four 3.4 mm Phillips.

    • Two 3 mm Phillips.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Hold the display vertically and tip it enough to grab the top edge of the LCD and rotate it slightly out of the display assembly, being careful not to break the circuitry off its lower edge.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Do not try to remove the LCD yet. The circuitry along its lower edge is wedged in a gap along the lower edge of the display recess in the plastic display assembly.

  • Hold the display vertically and tip it enough to grab the top edge of the LCD and rotate it slightly out of the display assembly, being careful not to break the circuitry off its lower edge.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Peel the piece of tape covering the display data cable connector away from the edge closest to the LCD.

1 Edit Step 26  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Pull the display data cable straight away from its socket on the LCD.

1 Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the thin steel retaining clip securing the display data cable to its socket on the LCD.

  • Pull the display data cable straight away from its socket on the LCD.

  • Lift the LCD out of the display assembly and set it aside.

Edit Step 27 Antenna Cables  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 27 Antenna Cables  ¶ 

  • Remove the two small pieces of black tape securing the antenna cables to the rear display bezel.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 2.3 mm Phillips screws securing the two antennas to the rear display bezel.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 3.3 mm Phillips screw securing the lower antenna ground strap to the rear display bezel.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • De-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the rear display bezel.

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Carefully pull the antenna cables out from under the frame attached to the rear display bezel and remove them from the display assembly.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Now that you've finished, share your repair story with others.

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17 Comments

According to this page http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1651?viewl..., the 8 screws are not identical.

Can anybody tell me where each kind of screw is supposed to go?

Gregoire - Reply

The screws on the Late 2009 are identical. The blue lock compound might make tightening some require a little more effort.

svenaustx - Reply

Can I replace it with a SATA 3 cable?

nm - Reply

hi, i just got back from the apple store and they are really keen for me to upgrade to a new laptop since my battery is old and the screen is cracked, so glad i found ifixit i would love to upgrade this puppy! gonna make it a real sleeper! styler hall wrote about sticking 16 gb of ram in his a 1342 ? is this a simply mather of ordering 3 4gb sticks ?aslo i currently have 4 gb and would like to upgrade to 8 ( or indeed 16) does that mean i need to buy all new sticks or can i continue to use the old one and stick a new one next to it ?

thanks again mick van aar, perth western aus.

michelvanaar - Reply

The A1342 will take up to 16 GB of RAM, however, there are only two RAM slots, so use two 8-GB RAM modules. Other World Computing (OWC) is a great reference source for info on exactly which RAM to use with which model; prices are usually much better on EBay though. Add an SSD from OWC and your machine will really scream!

I hope that helps!

gdesbrisay -

you do not need to remove the battery when replacing the hard drive or ram

brilldoctor - Reply

beware not to lift the connector to close of the angle, as the picture suggest it. It might broke the angle. Attack by the middle.

naamol - Reply

Not necessary?

hikkymemo - Reply

Be careful of the corner of the battery cable connector when trying to pry it off with the spudge. I knocked the corner of mine. No operational impact but was not very pleasing!

jljordanweb - Reply

Not necessary, but a good idea, so as to avoid any spurious charges going through the boards...

svenaustx - Reply

@Svenaustx - What could happen if not removing this battery? Worst case? Not a geek on this but did change RAM on my Macbook Pro "15. Can't remember disconneting the battery back then. Shouldn't it be sufficient shutting the Mac off and ensure it has been used for an hour or so before replacing RAM?

Allan Clarke -

Hi, i have an issue with the screw in the middle: it is blocked and the top is now damaged... Any suggestion?

Corrado - Reply

you can actually stop disassembling now and try to replace it now. after removing two t6 screws it came off pretty easily

grze - Reply

Good tip, thanks! I skipped ahead to step 17 and had no problem getting the magsafe board out from under the logic board and the new one installed. Saves a lot of work disconnecting connectors indicated as Fragile!

matt15 -

Thank You! Saved me an hour or so of work and a lot of stress!

15sweyandt -

I also did Step 6, then skipped to Step 17 & 18. Once I had the display data cable off, I could remove the 2 T6 Torx screws holding the MagSafe board on and remove it. You can reach under the logic board with the point of the spudger to work the cable out of the socket. Note how you maneuver the board out of the tight space so you can maneuver it back in. When you put the new MagSafe board in, plug in the cable first. If you bend the wires so the plug approaches the socket at the appropriate angle, you can nudge it in with the pointed end of the spudger.

hpendleton -

I've read where some people have struggled with reconnecting this cable during reassembly. I found it easier to wait to route the camera cable to the camera until after reconnecting the display data cable and putting the display in place. That way I could pull a little more of the display data cable through towards the display and it gave me more room to work.

Andrew Allen - Reply