Introduction

Use this guide to completely replace the logic board.

Image 1/1: Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws
  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

Does void the warranty?

jfondeur - Reply

No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...

oakdragon12 - Reply

How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

gunes314 - Reply

You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Reply

Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.

skimmilk05 -

What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!

Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.

pmhparis -

I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

John Adam Wickliffe - Reply

Hey guys,

this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

renatumb - Reply

Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

Robert Wacker - Reply

Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

kschmesk - Reply

I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

Alex - Reply

The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

brian whittle - Reply

Hello MacWorld,

Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

wer 10/5/15

tayseer999 - Reply

I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

GotMac - Reply

Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

taylornya - Reply

on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one

Maximilian Klotz - Reply

I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.

gilded yak - Reply

I need to know why my party can't hear. Me on my android phone

Tina Porter - Reply

Because that party is inside your head Tino. Just close your eyes and enjoy the tunes

Snuf Box -

Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”

Jack - Reply

I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

rodrigosady - Reply

Image 1/2: Remove the lower case. Image 2/2: Remove the lower case.
  • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

  • Remove the lower case.

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Image 1/2: It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off. Image 2/2: It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.
  • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

manodh - Reply

yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

khull -

This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

Steven Layton - Reply

My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

Diego Hernandes -

Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

ausmkv - Reply

wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

Peter - Reply

I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

John - Reply

simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

toiu - Reply

Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

fasthans - Reply

Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

aekinaka - Reply

Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

MacProUser - Reply

Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

Simon Mundy - Reply

I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

Zeerachen - Reply

Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

Ed Oliver - Reply

DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

Bradley Marks - Reply

Followed the tuto Step by step. Disconnected the battery (quite easily).

No problem when I lit the Mac on again. Battery's here, date's right.

nichoferr - Reply

Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.

Mfernandez - Reply

This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.

Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.

BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.

wassberg -

Image 1/1:
  • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

Diego Hernandes - Reply

The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

Great guides. Thanks!

timgunkel - Reply

Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

Sal Ergrapes - Reply

Image 1/3: It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector. Image 2/3: The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same. Image 3/3: The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.
  • Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

  • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

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Image 1/1: One 7.2 mm T6 Torx screw
  • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:

    • One 7.2 mm T6 Torx screw

    • Two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws

These are T5 screws

dbell316 - Reply

I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big

billytalentlovexo -

No they are T6

tweakland - Reply

Nope just tried a T6 and its too big, don't have a T5 but it's gotta be one

billytalentlovexo -

It would be helpful to have recommendations about how to clean the dust from inside. What places to direct the compressed air,

garyrclark - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Lift the fan out of its recess in the logic board, minding its cable that may get caught.

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Image 1/2: Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case.

  • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling the cable upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.
  • Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling the cable upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

townbull - Reply

Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

Larry Horton - Reply

Image 1/2: AirPort/Bluetooth cable Image 2/2: Optical drive cable
  • Disconnect the following four cables:

    • AirPort/Bluetooth cable

    • Optical drive cable

    • Hard drive cable

    • Trackpad cable

  • To disconnect the cables, use the flat end of a spudger to pry their connectors up from the sockets on the logic board.

On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

Larry Horton - Reply

Image 1/3: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/3: Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket. Image 3/3: Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
  • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

Derek Cowan - Reply

No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

maccentric -

I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

David - Reply

David, thank you so much for the tape suggestion! A little Scotch tape just ended 15 minutes of eyes-widening frustration. :)

simolinic - Reply

if the zif socket got fried which parts must be replaced?

Jacob - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.

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Image 1/3: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/3: Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket. Image 3/3: Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

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Image 1/1:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Hello Guys , I accidently Broke the Cable , is there a replacement for it?

dewa - Reply

Image 1/3: Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Image 2/3: Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Image 3/3: Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

Leo Jose - Reply

On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

"Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

Larry Horton - Reply

Image 1/1: Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws
  • Remove the following nine screws:

    • Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 4.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 7.2 mm T6 Torx screws

2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

starf1970 - Reply

I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

GotMac -

2 of the 7 (the two red ones on the right side in the image) seem really hard to remove. Is there something I'm missing, or do I just need to try harder?

rubenwiersma - Reply

lol @ eye widening frustration. i disabled the keyboard and track pad some how after trying discon my mic. i think its cuz i DID REMOVE BATTERY AND STICKER. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

msvicious510 - Reply

For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

gregory mogle - Reply

There is only 2 4.3mm T6 on the left part of the logic board and 2 7.2mm T6 on the magsafe board. The 5 T6 left are 3.6mm

sebdominguez - Reply

for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

Levi Hoover - Reply

Image 1/2: One 8.6 mm Phillips screw Image 2/2: One 5.5 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5.5 mm Phillips screw

  • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

The last screw is the onde that's getting me. Been trying to take it out for half an hour...

leotowers - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

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Image 1/1: Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.
  • Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.

  • Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.

  • Remove the logic board.

I am stuck here. When I lift the logic board, it doesn't come out. I don't want to force it out by fear of breaking it. Please help

Jean F - Reply

I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

Shaun - Reply

Same experience here. I used a longish spudger slipped under the logic board to carefully separate the black backlight shield from the underside of the logic board. I suspect the processor and/or the GPU sticks the two together. Be careful and patient separating the backlight shiled...it is delicate..go slow and use minimal force...

fasthans - Reply

It is heat not glue that caused the sticking...

fasthans - Reply

I got the microphone cable out fine, but what I'm really struggling with is the camera cable - it doesn't seem to wanna come out and I don't want to force it because I know it's fragile. Anyone find a trick for this?

ingwis - Reply

I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

tony perry - Reply

I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

Carlos De Bernard -

I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

ej257lgt -

There is one flexible metal plate near each connector probably a grounding plate which can get bend while pulling out the logic board. I had one of them bend but fortunately it didn't break off.

Leo Jose - Reply

Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

justfinditjoshyip - Reply

Hi - did you figure out what the problem was? Everything working great - but not charging =/

Denise Vondy -

If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

Larry Horton -

Image 1/1:
  • De-route the microphone cable from its slot molded into the left speaker enclosure.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the small piece of black tape covering the left speaker connector.

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Image 1/1: Pry up from beneath the wires.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

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Image 1/1: Remove the left speaker.
  • Carefully pry the left speaker off the foam adhesive securing it to the logic board.

  • Remove the left speaker.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the piece of black tape covering the microphone connector.

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Image 1/1: Remove the microphone.
  • Pull the microphone cable upward to lift its connector out of the socket on the logic board.

  • Remove the microphone.

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Image 1/1: Remove the DC-In board.
  • Pull the MagSafe DC-In board cable toward the heat sink to disconnect it from the logic board.

  • Remove the DC-In board.

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Image 1/2: Don't lose the springs held under each of the screws. Image 2/2: Carefully remove the heat sink from the processor.
  • Remove the three 8.4 mm #1 Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

  • Don't lose the springs held under each of the screws.

  • Carefully remove the heat sink from the processor.

  • If the heat sink seems to be stuck, it may be helpful to gently pry it off the processor with a plastic spudger. Be careful not to break any surface mount components on the processor while prying.

  • Be sure to clean off the old thermal paste and apply a new layer before you reinstall the heat sink. We have a guide that makes it easy.

Need to remove the heat sink for the GPU as well.

Albert - Reply

Are there only 2 springs?

Egor Kalachev - Reply

nop on the cpu are 3 springs. I am still looking for more info on the other heat black part. i did some digging it appears that works with 3mm pads. the thermal paste is ok but there is no contact like cooper. Have any one know here i can find more info on that part?

Carlos De Bernard -

Image 1/2: The RAM chip should "pop" up slightly from its socket. Image 2/2: Pull the RAM stick out of its socket.
  • Pull the two RAM retaining arms away from the center of the RAM chip.

  • The RAM chip should "pop" up slightly from its socket.

  • Pull the RAM stick out of its socket.

  • Repeat this process to remove the second RAM chip.

  • Logic board remains.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

64 other people completed this guide.

5 Comments

it doesn't matter if my logic board have other serial number, if itrs de same year and same GHZ?

jaime - Reply

why is it recommended to install an SD card into the SD card slot when replacing a logic board in MackBook Pro (13-inch, Early 2011)?

Ron Hill - Reply

Why is it recommended to install an SD card into the SD slot when replacing a logic board in a MacBook Pro (13 inch, Early 2011)?

Ron Hill - Reply

Hello guys,

I have a question for you : if i need to change my macbook pro early 2011 logic board (the one with the core i5 2.3ghz) with a late 2011 logic board (core i5 2.8Ghz). will it work ? thanks a ton for any input on that matter !

guillaume polizzi - Reply

great my mbp won't turn on now.

bli7722 - Reply

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