Use this guide to replace a cracked front panel or a broken LCD.

After successfully replacing the broken screen, protect your new display from scratches by installing a screen protector.

Video Overview

Image 1/1: Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe P2 screws next to the dock connector.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe P2 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

The Liberation Kit just stripped the screw. Now what.

nimpsy - Reply

Had local iPhone repair shop remove the screw. Repair complete!

nimpsy -

I left the battery in and everything above the middle, using a pen knife to flex the logic board, I had plenty of room to else the old out and the new in.

Worked well and saved a lot of time.

Keith M - Reply

After reviewing the steps I decided to follow this guy's advice and left the battery less item to possibly foul up. I don't know if it made it any faster (first time to open my phone, so nothing to compare it to) but I can say that my phone is charging for the first time in 6 months :D

Jennifer -


1) This is doable but not easy, quick or without risk.

2) If this is your 1st time, the whole process can take >2 hours (half of it reading this fixit manual and notes, which I highly recommend!)

3) I highly recommend placing a large, thin clean white cloth on the table. This prevents screws from rolling around and you will clearly see anything falling out.

4) If you have them, use tight surgical (latex) gloves. This prevents you from greasing up contacts.

5) Have e.g. a big old egg box ready, so you can place the screws in order (and maybe write step/screw size on the side).

6) I bought my display from "Generic" on Amazon ($20.36). Screen works fine and tools were ok but not great (screw drivers do not withstand force needed to unscrew some).

7) I had my own 2mm Phillips screw driver and a 2.4mm flat (for the big screws).

8) Have a nice cold beer by your side! Good luck!

superedu111 - Reply

Sounds like this comment relates to a screen replacement, not a rear panel replacement. No way a rear panel replacement would take 2 hours - can be done in 2 minutes!

Jonathan Deamer -

I was paranoid about stripping the pentalobes - I used the ifixit pentalobe screwdriver TOGETHER with a layer of Glad Wrap (cling film or saran wrap for the non-Aussies) over the pentalobe holes - absolutely no problems. Guess it helps the driver head gain purchase?

Anyway hat tip to this guy:

jimforbes - Reply

It's also called glad wrap in the US as well. :)

Scorppio500 Webmaster -

After seeing the comments about trouble finding the carrier, I shut down the phone, did a soft reset (by holding the power and home buttons until it started and then shut down and stayed off), and removed the SIM. After the repair, I replaced the SIM and plugged it in to the charger. It started up and found the carrier (Verizon, as it happens) immediately. I would guess that only the soft reset made a difference, but I did both.

DavidLewis - Reply

Thank you David, will I need to reload operating system if I replace thr logic board? I'm hoping to use a 32gb boards from a locked but working phone to place in my 8gb device. Thanks for your advice,


Sharif Bagnulo -

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Reply

Here's a little vacuum trick for anything small: put nylons/panty hose over the end of the hose and then you don't have to dig thru the bag contents.

paul -

Marv you a first class pleb! Please don't try and fix anything again. Tool

ticklejahfancy -

my screws are stipped and i am going though the front glass to get to the logic board could some one give me a guide on how to get to the board please... thanks

Caleb Croft - Reply

all you need to do is remove the clip over the wifi antenna and the one that actually attaches the wifi antenna to the iphone two steps to do this job...

Ray Leahy - Reply

The physical battery replacement went off without a hitch, and saw that the phone had no network connection, but also had no way to unlock. The slide lock said "Slide for Emergency Call" over my custom wallpaper and sliding would give the passcode screen, but it would reject the 6 digit passcode (it would buzz and go dark after the 4th digit, re-awakening and putting in the last 2 would indicate bad passcode). Very frustrating! I get it into recovery mode and convinced iTunes to "update" the OS, but it still didn't let me in. I performed a restore to fully factory reset the phone, and it worked! Sort of... the start screen kept being replaced by "Temperature - phone needs to cool down" but it's cold. Temp sensor is on the battery and returning to old battery fixed it. New battery is bad, and phone is wiped. Fun night.

I'm going to guess that disabling the password might save you from a similar fate. So, I'll suggest BEFORE YOU START, backup your phone and disable the passcode. Good luck.

Ian Epperson - Reply

Same here.. Going through that terrible night myself! Guess you had to return your battery right?

Nuno Alves -

Image 1/2: The panel will move about 2 mm.
  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

how can i take out the screw if it is stripped

Manny Chaidez - Reply

with a small driller, but I guess it is very difficult. Never attempted that myself on an iPhone.

lantzero -

There is no screw in Step 2?

Is the screw stripped or the head stripped?

I have used superglue on the screwdriver to remove a stripped screw, it would turn but not come out, with superglue I could turn and pull the screw out. May also work on a stripped head.

Trevor -

If you are careful, use a Dremel tool and a micro drill bit (sold where Dremel tools are purchased) to drill it out. Last resort kind of thing, good luck.

Jack - Reply

Why isn't it moving? I removed my screws.

Thomas The Train - Reply

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Reply

I didn't see any extra screws holding the back in place. I had to use the included pry tool to get the back off. Just start at the bottom and pry gently...if you just "pull" like the guide says it won't work.

Brian - Reply

Don't use too much force to slide the back -- the back on my phone was hard to slide, and I bent and broke a silver metal contact tab at the top of the back (on the inside).

perryskeath - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the rear panel from the iPhone.
  • Pull the rear panel away from the back of the iPhone, being careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

  • Remove the rear panel from the iPhone.

On reassembly, be sure to clean the metal plate at the place of contact with the tiny pressure contact mentioned in step 4.

Harald Brandt - Reply

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Reply

The replacement panel I got had two sheets of protective plastic on the inside and one on the outside. I used a toothpick to carefully lift and peel the two inside sheets off. One small one was over the lens on the inside. The other was over some large brown sheet of unknown function (though I think it goes over the battery). When I peel that away, some of the brown material tried to lift of with it, so be very careful.

dhein - Reply

From this point go to step ?? Just peel off the tape from the chip. Take some aluminium foil and cut a hole the size of the chip (Use a second layer of foil if you don't thrust it). Heat the chip as described at temperature 300 deg C for 5 minutes. Let it cool down. Reassemble and ..... hura WIFI is on again.

Lucasa Clearman - Reply

Image 1/3: One 1.7 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently detach the battery connector from the socket on the device. Start lifting off the connector from the bottom side, by placing the tip of the tool between the loudspeaker enclosure and the metal cover of the connector.

  • The battery connector comes off vertically from the logic board. Do not apply force sideways.

  • Pay attention to the pressure contact underneath the top screw of the battery connector. This may come loose while prying the battery connector from its socket.

On my phone at least, there is a small gold and black part held down under the top screw. It goes black side up with the pressure contact touching the back of the phone when the cover is in place. Keep an eye out for correct orientation as you dismantle.

James Molyneux - Reply

I also had a small black and gold connector held down by the top screw on this step.

Kevin Keenan - Reply

While the text refers to the pressure contact, the pictures do not show it clearly. The closet one that does has the yellow circle covering much of it. I was not sure if it was under or on top of the cover when re-installing. It's under.

gregsrow - Reply

This step needs a few more caveats.

The bottom screw on my phone was locked with some thread adhesive, and required more force to loosen it than I expected.

Even after removing the screws, the battery connector was rather firmly seated, and required a fair bit of persistent gentle prying with the opening tool before it came loose.

The ground clip came loose and nearly flew off while loosening the connector, so it would really help people if there were a warning on this step to watch out for the ground clip and make sure it doesn't bounce away.

threephi - Reply

Despite putting a large amount of pressure on the screw I can't get the blades of the 00 to take. Has anyone tried with a 000 and does it work better?

abeardsa - Reply

The 00 didn't work much for me but I had more success with a Phillips #0

DMcG -

I find the #00 doesn't work either. I use the #000 and it works better for me.

Keith -

The battery connector is attached to the battery. You're not going to completely lift it out and remove it. It pulls out from the socket you can see in step 5 picture 3. The pressure contact (little black and gold thing) will probably just slide out from under the connector. Not a problem.

DMcG - Reply

Which screwdriver works best then. I got the #00 philips from ifixit. I agree - it strips the screw and does not work. I don't recommend it.

I am now trying to buy another screwdriver - but which one. #0 or #000. Anyone done this. Please help!

andrepoon - Reply

I lost the screws securing the battery connector to the logic board, what happens when I turn on my iphone without securing screws, as shown in step 4, please solution. thank you

Afriyadi - Reply

The iFixit screwdriver that is recommended and provided will strip the screws here. HOLD OFF. I bought a ph000 screwdriver off the internet. Worked fine. Don't be tempted to proceed with the ph00 from iFixit. IT WILL STRIP!!

andrepoon - Reply

seconded. after shipping (to spain, plus surprise import taxes) and nearly $100, the 1.7 mm screw would not budge and ended up stripped. uncool.

jejerez -

I completed this repair without removing the battery. I think the guide should be edited to note that battery removal is not necessary.

M C - Reply

A little late to ask but how did you do this without taking the battery out? My screws are a pain to get out and if there is a better way of doing this then I'd like to try.

josephcon1998 -

I completed this successfully, but this step gave me the most trouble. The pressure contact is really difficult to reseat. So much so that it should probably be called out more clearly in it's own step.

Greg Fulco - Reply

If your pressure contact pops out you might find the video at helpful

Martin Cleaver - Reply

When reinstalling the position of pressure contact must be explained better! It took me about 5 min to understand how it fit!

Jorge - Reply

In french: attention avant de retirer le contacteur de la batterie. La vis du haut tient "en sandwich" une petite pièce métallique noire et dorée. Cette pièce a pour but de faire contact de masse avec le dos de l'iphone quand il est refermé. Donc il ne faut pas la tordre. Quand les deux vis du contacteur sont retirée, attention au moment de débrancher le contacteur: cela va faire bouger cette pièce qui ne doit pas être abîmée ni tordue. Au remontage, il faut bien la remettre en place sous le contacteur de batterie: il est tout à fait possible de mettre d'abord le contacteur, puis de glisser la petite pièce au dessous pour qu'elle soit bien à sa place, le trou en face du trou de vis et du trou du contacteur. En remettant la vis, la pièce tient bien en place. Elle doit bien continuer à dépasser de manière a faire contact avec le dos de l'iphone.

stephane lecreux - Reply

Top screw didn’t move with iFixit Philips #000 driver. The metal is too soft and in the result the screw was damaged while still in place. Having nothing to lose I also tried #00 and #0. Any way to remove the stuck screw? I would gladly saw it off if I could.

viktorcode - Reply

Ok, I had to drill the screw to break it. It was very delicate and time consuming operation. But in the end the screw cap finally broke off and I was able to remove the battery!

viktorcode -

The Liberation Kit Philips head screwdriver strips the battery connector screws! It stripped the ne 1.7 mm Phillips screw circled in red in the photo above. I was able to remove the other screw, then I lifted the battery connector off while the red screw was still in position and wound the connector around in circles while lifting upwards and managed to unscrew the stripped screw. Advice, find a decent philips heard screwdriver for the internal screws like the two found on the battery connector.

remsta - Reply

When reassembling, use EST tweezers to get align the pressure contact over the top screw hole. using the pointy end of a spudger to assist: put the point through top screw-hole on the battery connector, then through the pressure contact and into the screw-hole. this will help to keep the small piece in place while re-seating the battery connector. Leave the top hole spiked as such until the screw in the bottom hole is gently fastened. Remove the spudger and replace the top screw.

tallismanproductions - Reply

Pressure contact needs to be remain EXACTLY in the same position if you remove/replace battery. I had to re-open my iPhone 4S after a battery replacement (the mobile connectivity was lost) and tweak the position of the Pressure to restore functionality.

Peter Schoeman - Reply

Why do I have to remove the battery for disassembling the rear camera? Any idea?

Andreas Suck - Reply

Hi, I have a problem with that small piece which connect gsm antenna with the back cover. I missed that part and have a weak signal gsm, so I buy it and now when I put it there the Iphone wont turn on when the back cover is puted on. I know that somewhere is short-circuit but dont know how to solve it. Sorry for my english.

jurajtomecek7 - Reply

I used my 16x magnifier loupe to be certain I had the pressure sensor aligned with the screw hole - no problem, no stripping. I consider it indispensable for tricky steps like this, and IFixit sells a similar tool for just $14.

Jen Morris - Reply

The pressure connector is the battery connector under the silver plate. BE CAREFUL. It seems like it'd be really easy to tear that pressure connector out without meaning to. The bronze and black thing is the ground, *not* the pressure connector. If you remove it just keep track of it and re-install it.

Brian - Reply

this help me a lot, i just don't know how to fix it(bought it from

Dean - Reply

The phillips head screwdriver provided in the ifixit repair kit does not work well this these two screws after my first attempt at unscrewing the screws became stripped. The 1.7 mm phillips screw gave me the most trouble. It took an hour to unscrew after the screwdriver from the kit stripped the screw. I used a piece of masking tape over the screw for grip to loosen it, then used finger nail clippers as pliers to unscrew. I would recommend investing in a better screwdriver for this one step. Assembly is otherwise simple and easy.

teeteebaby5 - Reply

Here's a tip if you're having trouble removing the 1.7 mm screw. I had real problems removing it – the 1.5 mm screw came out easily using a Phillips #000 screwdriver but I almost stripped the 1.7 mm screw using the same screwdriver. What I did instead was use a flathead screwdriver from the iFixit pro tech toolkit I got, the one with a "–" sign and 1.0 size. That worked perfectly!

Lars - Reply

There's only one Philips screwdriver with the kit but it failed to unscrew the top 1.7mm one off the connector unfortunately. Is the kit supposed to come with both the 1.7 and 1.5mm Philips screwdrivers?

yanchou - Reply

When disconnecting the battery make sure to use a plastic tool not a metal tool that could short out the battery

Ethan Chow - Reply

I did not manage to get the screws out with a Phillips #000 Screwdriver; I used instead the J1000 head of the all-new pro tech toolkit

Jean Wallemacq - Reply

Image 1/3: When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pull the pressure contact from underneath the battery connector.

  • When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference.

  • Take notice of the position of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector. This clip is attached only by the upper screw. When reinstalling, it must be aligned so the gold contact point will press against the back cover.

  • Be careful not to rip off the battery connector socket soldered on the logic board. There are 4 very small soldering points awaiting this mistake!

If I did accidentally remove the pressure contact point from the logic board...what do I do?

Samuel Z - Reply

I also did this. Not sure what its for? My phone appears to be fine now without it.

Ian Booth -

This picture needs to be greatly enlarged! The pressure plate sits directly underneath the battery connector, but cannot be seen here. It is also flat but about half the size of the battery connector, so you won't know you've ripped it up until you have! Picture two slices of bread but not the same size, stuck together.

S Byers - Reply

What if you pop off that pressure contact point?? What is its function? Is it impossible to re-attach?

Ian Booth - Reply

No idea what exactly this step means. I just pulled the battery connector without trying to move the pressure contact. Installed new battery, plugged in connector and aligned the pressure contact slightly for the screw to fit.

Got a big scare as the phone would not connect to the cell network at first boot, only WiFi. Shut it off and when it rebooted it seemed to work. WIll probably know in a day or so if everything works fine or if there are interference issues, etc.

andries - Reply

This is normal ... removing the battery resets internal clock to start value and your provider doesn't accept that, hence no network.

Going online through wifi or manually setting date right corrects this after a reboot.

Dreetn -

I also accidentally removed the pressure contact. I put it back in place as best I could during reassembly and so far haven't ran into any problems.

Maynard Stevens - Reply

The black & copper contact piece is missing from my iPhone. Does that explain why my phone won't restore and keeps re-booting? I have tried every kind of restore with no luck. Any ideas?

ozarkana - Reply

After reassembling the iPhone I the GSM connection wasn't working. After cleaning all parts with isopropyl alcohol it still didn't work. What solved my problem was to turn on WiFi and then synchronizing the date and time which was set to 1970-01-01. After a reboot everything worked just fine. :)

Florian - Reply

I had the same problem. Thanks for the solution!!

Manolis Mylonakis -

thanks for this!

Bill McNamara -

The black ground contact needs still more "flagging." This is a simple metal strip that is attached ONLY by the 1.5mm (upper) screw. It will help if you look at it before you remove the upper screw. Notice the gold contact arm and point. That contact point must be in a plane above every other surface inside the device when you replace the battery connector, because it makes a ground contact with the metallic inner surface of the device back plate.

When I replaced it, I used the Pentalobe driver to line up battery connector and ground contact with the screw socket post. I then attached the 1.7mm (lower) screw loosely, removed the Pentalobe driver gently, and inserted the 1.5mm (upper) screw into the assembly. There is a tab on the ground contact that helps it align properly once pressure begins to applied. I completed driving the upper screw, pressing lightly with the spudger on the battery connector plate to make sure it was seated on the pressure contacts. Finally, I completed driving the lower screw.

Matt McCaffrey - Reply

This is a hard step because the directions and pictures are not very clear. This might help:

1) Here you HAVE TO disconnect the battery connecter (the language is confusing).

2) This is easier than it looks, as you can simply lift the connector upwards from any angle (I rested my plastic tool on the antenna and gently lifted it up).

The photo suggests you have to pull the connector backwards (which would be hard), this is not true, it can be lifted up towards you (the pins go out backwards and upwards, you'll see).

Finally, don't confuse the "pressure contact" with the "pressure contact point". You remove the contact, the contact point (underneath) sits on the board. No need to worry about this.

superedu111 - Reply

Very ambiguous instructions for amateurs like me. eg. "pressure contact" & "pressure contact point". Some labelling in the photos would be a great help.

Stephen Shaw - Reply

Wish the instructions had the warnings about the pressure contact before getting started. I removed it from the logic board because the warning was after the instructions. I managed to get it back in place and reassemble the phone. Nothing happened when I turned it on. Here I wrongly assumed the battery came pre-charged but it wasn't. I decided to plug it in to recharge it and was elated to see the empty battery symbol. I'm sending this from the phone!

jfksdca - Reply

I didn't find any need to remove the pressure contact. I just pried the battery connector up (gently) with a spudger and left the pressure contact in place. Connected the new battery and aligned the pressure contact screw hole. Replaced the screws, finished reassembly and all was good.

Roger Mercer - Reply

After reassembly, the CELL CONNECTION WASN'T WORKING. You might need to slightly bend the contact in step 5 up just a little, so it will make contact with the metal back plate. Did that and it worked perfectly.

Great kit, great instructions, thanks!

AirPhonesApp - Reply

all those teeny screws...and the world is so...well...BIG!

go slow and put those parts INTO something...

putting them "on" something will just cause heartache and and an infected bladder...


after a lot of froofroo and very errant iphone behaviour problems, i concluded that that tiny grounding piece must be being lazy as hello. i spread it out a bit to ensure a better contact with the back plate and everything appears to be working smoothly.

did this repair, as well as the battery replacement...GTG!!!

spoke too soon, i 'spect...random reboots persist.

richard - Reply

Just went through the replacement and the battery "plug" (step 5) on my replacement battery was slightly misaligned relative to the metal plate used to screw it onto the board. The plastic and "gold" "plug" was slightly askew on the metal plate, which meant that when the plug was inserted, the screw holes (step 4) were poorly aligned.

I managed to pull everything back into line using the screws, but the QC on these replacement batteries is a bit suspect.

cvdwl - Reply

Guess what happens when you rotate that ground connector 180 grounds what I deduced to be the heat sink of the power amplifier for the speaker! So it is silent. It took me a couple of attempts to discover this as I was distracted by the new speaker not sitting down properly and a little dot of stuff under the main connector stuck to the pins. The latter was cleaned-off with a pin under 5x magnification followed by some isopropyl alcohol.

I suggest that Step 5 is more explicit about the orientation of this ground connector. It's only obvious after a really close look and if one has a lot to do like I did, it's a long time before one comes back to this step so the correct orientation is not obvious.

Michael Scollay - Reply

Image 1/2: Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.
  • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the battery and the outer case near the bottom of the iPhone.

  • Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.

This can be very tricky because sometimes theres just too many glue on the back of the battery, and eventually the battery will be deformed.

Carlos Lopes - Reply

Yes, there did seem to be a lot of glue holding my battery in. At first I was afraid of breaking it, but after reading up on the subject I've learned that it is okay if the battery gets a little deformed. Due to the nature of the battery it will still work if slightly deformed.

djlogic26 - Reply

I found the plastic pull tab to be useless. Peeled pretty much the whole battery out from the left side. Used a probe to "break" a few strands of glue to help. Just watch the connector and ribbon cable in the lower left corner as you pry up so you don't crimp them or damage them.

gregsrow - Reply

DO NOT remove the battery unless absolutely necessary. If the battery is removed from the phone, DO NOT reuse it, ifixit does not seem to understand the importance of safely handling the battery

Tom Chai - Reply

Tom you have never been so wrong. Removing the battery is the FIRST step ANYONE should do before repairing or attempting repairs on their phone. The iPhone has many different grounding points in the phone and having electrical current running to it poses a massive risk, especially with ESD (ElectroStatic Discharge). People, PLEASE make sure you remove your phone's battery FIRST before doing any repairs. Use a plastic, not metal, spudger, after unhooking the battery from the logic board, place the spudger along the right side of the battery NOT under the volume buttons, about an inch and a half lower (two roughly if a sim card is present) and start prying it up using the frame as the fulcrum, as you start to lift the battery from the adhesive make sure you slide the spudger farther under to get even contact so you do not damage the battery.

Prestige Computer Solutions -

Try a used plastic credit/gift card to apply gentle pressure to lift the battery out of the phone, the short edge of the card fits within the gap on the logic board side between the battery and video cables. You can also use it on the opposite side if there is room between the battery and iPhone frame. This has worked on all of the 4 and 4s models I've replaced screens on.

I offer an alternative image if interested.

Wallace Karraker - Reply

Hello! My clients iphone 4s:n battery connector broke, when i tried accidentally take the battery out with a plastic tool from the wrong side.

Connector detached completely, so that the two middle ironcensors came with it and was stuck to the connector. When i screw the whole connector back to phone, it works with battery power, but the batterys downloading doesnt work. Are these two middle censors that are stuck in the connector exactly the ones that should be charging the battery? Do you know how i can fix this? I have already bought electrical conductor glue, but should the parts be cleaned somehow first? And how can i fix it, when the center metal sensors on the system board is also attached to the battery?

How can i clean out thiskind of part with windex? I have purchased almost all of the possible tools from iFixit and the electrical conductor glue i bought somewhere else. (

SebastianK - Reply

Removing the battery wasn't necessary. I attempted the removal but decided not to in the end. It didn't get in the way at all.

BigFatCat - Reply

i also skipped the battery removal step. the battery didn't get in the way, but it did make it difficult to see if the wifi grounding fingers (step 14) were underneath the case lip. everything worked in the end though so i don't think removing the battery is a strict requirement.

rippergirl - Reply

How can you not remove the battery in a battery replacement fix? Step 14, there are only 7 steps. Me thinks these comments are getting mixed up between different fixes!

bluezzer -

I did not remove the battery to do a Speaker replacement and had no issues with getting the Speaker out/in. So, steps 4 and 5 are required but not step 6.

rcrodriguez2 - Reply

The plastic tab is not attached to the battery. I just pried from the right and slid tools under until I broke all the adhesive.

DMcG - Reply

I found it easier to start by pulling the plastic lip to loosen the battery, then, if needed, use the plastic tool to pry from the side.

superedu111 - Reply

I tried to get the battery out as depicted in the first picture. It deformed and is now broken. Not happy. It seems better to leave it or get it out by gently pulling the tab.

Paul Baars - Reply

Please, Please, PLEASE avoid using probing elements to try remove batteries. I have had dozens handed in to me with punctures and two that actually started smoking due to people trying to prise the battery out. DO NOT DO IT.

The best way I have found to remove the battery is this process;

1) Try remove it with the pull tab directly, some will come out, some will not. Do NOT use excessive pull force else it'll deform the battery and reduce the capacity.

2) If the pull test didn't work, then get a hot air gun on medium and warm up the area around the battery for about 30 seconds, focusing on the perimeter of the battery. If you see ANY popcorn'ing then you're too hot, you don't want to cook the battery.

2.1) Wait about 30 seconds for the heat to now wick underneath the battery to soften the adhesive.

2.2) Now try pull the battery up, the extra heat should have softened the glue that you can remove the battery without excessive force and without sticking objects under the battery.

Paul L Daniels - Reply

Image 1/2: Be careful not to pull the plastic pull tab too hard as it can be ripped off very easily.
  • Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Be careful not to pull the plastic pull tab too hard as it can be ripped off very easily.

  • Remove the battery.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Be VERY careful NOT to pull off the part of the connector that is on the logic board! Mine now has only contact but no solder until I can get a small enough soldering iron and a less shaky pair of hands!

Rob Hendricks - Reply

I lost the 1.5mm and 1.7mm screws when replacing my 4s battery. Is there a place that sells just these two screws? I bought a 4s screw kit from but figuring out which screw out the of 39 screws were the the 1.5mm and 1.7mm was impossible.

admin - Reply

Buy a cheap pair of digital callipers ($20 -$30) and it will be clear. You can then use them to measure all kinds of things instead of squinting with a ruler.

bluezzer -

I bent the wire of the silent button on right top of the battery. Now the silent botton don't work. The wire on the bent is half-cut. BE CAREFUL when you put the new battery inside!

orzo - Reply

Was having a hard time getting the screws back into the battery connector. Read another tip online that helped - pushed the end of my phillips screwdriver into some soft candle wax which gave it just enough stickyness to have the screw stay attached to the screwdriver while I was moving it toward the hole. Thought I'd pass that along.

bill - Reply

I did as wazzamagu did (and stated above), "My Pentalobe tool was slightly magnetized so I used that to bring the screws in for tightening with the Philips screwdriver." That made replacing the screws fairly easy. Thanks for all the advice on this page. It was not hard at all. Go slow and carefully, everything is smaller in there than I expected. The "searching" thing came up as it seems for most people, but just took a reboot and all is fine.

amorteguy - Reply


I had the same issue with "searching network". After resetting the network settings in settings it did work perfectly!

Klemt - Reply

Took about 15 minutes. The only thing that was confusing was the reference to parts, using the partname, and I didn't know what they were referring to. So I had to figure it out by the photos. Slightly frustrating. Got it in and it worked. My problem then, was it kept SEARCHING and couldn't find my carrier. I followed everyones advice on here, plugged phone into my computer to itunes. then turned off network settings in settings, then turned them back on, and I got 3 bars. good to go.

sally -

Instructions were good and everything works fine after replacement. Needed to use a tweezer on the pressure contact on the top screw of the battery. Thanks

jeff - Reply

I swapped out the battery today. No real issues. Pretty easy task.

ddbbsr - Reply

For the past couple of months, my phone had been dying very fast. I knew that my phone's battery capacity was getting quite low as this phone is older now, and is out of warranty. So I ordered a replacement battery about a week ago, and just installed it yesterday. The install was pretty easy, if you pay attention to where everything belongs. But my draining issue has not gone away. It stays charged a bit longer, my capacity is at almost 100%, yet it can't even hold a charge over night. I'm not sure what is causing this and would love any tips or stories from someone else!! Please help!!

loucksls92 - Reply

Beim Einbauen des neuen Akkus ist es sinnvoll diesen zuerst anzuschließen und dann erst wieder in die richtige Position zu bringen da man so dass Anschlusskabel besser verlegen kann

Andreas Richter - Reply

OMG thank you iFIXIT, the apple store wanted 3 times the cost of this repair kit. It took less than 5 minutes with most of the time spent trying to prise out the battery as it was glued in nice and tight but steady pressure from the spudger did the trick.

I think the best advice would be to touch nothing with your fingers as with careful use of the spudger I was able to position the tensioner point no problem. Everything else was nice 'n' easy.

Finally there was no cell connection only Wifi when I powered up so I simply powered down and up again and all is well in the world!

Thanks again.

Yvonne Frankl - Reply

The battery was incredibly hard to remove. I slid the spudger underneath the battery from the right side as far as it would go. Then, I worked it from the bottom to the top. The battery still was adhered and wouldn't budge using the pull tab. I wound up leaving the spudger underneath the battery at the top and then pressing down on the bottom of the battery to get leverage. After a few strong pushes, and then swapping the top and bottom in the last sentence, the old battery came loose.

I used tweezers to hold the tiny screws and align them with the screwdriver head before taking the screw to the destination hole.

One more tip.. if you don't have any other cartons or containers convenient, use the box that the product comes in as a workspace for holding the tiny screws while you work.

Steve B - Reply

good tips, i took a couple of photos so i knew what it should look like and removed the screws and placed them in the order i removed them pretty easy if you take your time and be gentle

Sam B -

Be VERY careful not to pull on the plastic tab before you fully detach the adhesive or else you will rip the tab clean off. If you did this it is still possible to remove the battery. I just used the guitar pick tool things to slowly work it through the adhesive and under the battery

Zach Mangs - Reply

It is possible to remove and replace the upper antenna WITHOUT removing the logic board!! So skip from step 7 to step 21 to 26 and 27.

What - Reply

Stuck on searching after unplugging and plugging in the battery?

This is due to the date and time being set back to default. To fix this you will need to synchronize the date and time back to what it is currently.

You can do this by either:

- Connecting the phone to either a Wi-Fi network, Cellular Network (Mobile Data).

- Connecting the phone to iTunes (It will synchronize the time automatically once iTunes is opened and can detect and access the iPhone).

Once the date and time is synced you will need to turn airplane mode off and one as it may display 'Searching... 3G' or if it still says searching (which most of the time happens if the sim card has a sim pin lock enabled on it) you will then need to turn the phone off and on.

Ben - Reply

Image 1/2: One 1.5 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the dock connector cable cover to the logic board:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips screw

  • Remove the metal dock connector cable cover.

Are the screw sizes switche up by any chance? A 4S i have here has the left hole bigger and one of the screws didn't want to go into the right hole when it went nicely into the left one.

primozresman - Reply

Fabulous tutorial! Many thanks! i have now a working iPhone back after display crash and glass brake!

In Step 8 I think the colors of the screws are inverted. The larger screw is at the left (near the sideboard) and the smaller is in the middle, near the battery (iPhone 4S).

Markus - Reply

Was trying to fix guide but accidently messed some things up in formatting and I too also believe the picture is incorrectly displaying the 1.5mm(which is the left screw) and the 1.2mm(which is the right screw.

Mars Starcruiser - Reply

I believe the guide is correct, but be careful as the screws are not the same as the other 1.2mm screws from later on. Length is the same, but the diameter is not... just keep them all separate.

Dave - Reply

Organizer: tape cheap duct tape tacky side up to a tray. Get a ball point or roller ball pen. For every screw, write step number and a letter for color (R, O, Y, etc.) then stick the screw there. I bumped the table and nothing moved. Also use a big white towel as a work surface: nothing bounces away if you drop it. This helped re-assembly

griffn - Reply

Also remove 4 screws holding metal cover plate adjacent to camera lens, remove plate to expose camera plug. when removing the rear facing camera, be careful not to loose the small grounding finger mentioned in step 21

Robin - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the dock cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Peel the dock connector cable off the adhesive securing it to the logic board and the side of the speaker enclosure.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cellular antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  • De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.

Ok, I did all the steps and phone seems to be OK, wifi is actually working again, yaaay.

But cellular connection is messed up. It will have full reception (5 pins) for about 10 seconds, then drop to 1 pin for a couple seconds, then go into "searching" mode. After a few seconds in "searching" mode it will go back to full reception and the process repeats itself in a timely fashion, over and over again. Obviously I messed up somewhere but where? Which connections are faulty/beyond repair?

Colorblend - Reply

I dismantled the phone again and concluded that the digitizer cable was kind of loose (don't know if that affected anything, but i put it down firmly this time). I had 2 problems, the cellular connection I mentioned plus the phone would charge to 3 percent, die, and then repeat the procedure. What I did was I took out the battery, the tin plate above the cables, and lifted the dock connector. So I did not redo that much. I cleaned all contact surfaces as I had been told but chose to not do before.... I also took out the grounding clip by the battery connectors and bent it upwards quite a bit while also peeling away 2 mm of the black insulation material on the back of the phone to make sure the grounding clip connects well to the back of the phone. I also cleaned that surface with window cleaner, which is basically isoprypol alcohol as has been recommended. The cellular antenna connector I pushed down firmly to make sure it was connected, I was gentler the first time, now everything works.

Colorblend - Reply

Note that the antenna cable goes around the the right side of that little guiding hook/finger. On the photo it shows the cable on the left of it. The hook is almost right below the socket.

jasperm - Reply

Image 1/1: You can use tweezers, a plastic opening tool, or a spudger to remove the outer plastic ring.
  • Be wary of the outer plastic ring located on top of the rear camera's flash assembly. It can be easily displaced if not removed during disassembly.

  • You can use tweezers, a plastic opening tool, or a spudger to remove the outer plastic ring.

Sometimes found stuck to the inside of the back cover.

Jeremy Jones - Reply

Don't do it!!! you can skip that, it will stay and its more of a pain to remove it.

Nic Harper - Reply

This is unnecessary step!! Don't do that!!

javamonk - Reply

Agreed, mine was stuck inside of the back cover

fidelvila - Reply

So was mine - thanks for telling! Rests of soft glue could be scratched off the place - so the ring was already off and I looked for it everywhere.

Ida - Reply

Mine was stuck to the cover too, thanks for posting.

davisyang - Reply

Image 1/1: One 2.7 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following four screws securing the cable cover to the logic board:

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips screw

On reassembly, note that the metal lip below the (red) 2.7mm screw and to the right of the (green) 1.2mm screw goes between the ribbon cable and the main logic board, as can be seen in the picture for Step 12. If you don't get this right, the 2.7mm screw is difficult and, worse, there's a risk the edge of the lip will tear the ribbon cable.

David Bruce - Reply

I had challenges here. As noted, the metal lip below the (red) 2.7mm screw and to the right of the (green) 1.2mm screw goes between the ribbon cable and the main logic board. That lip points away from you, towards the screen, THEN BENDS UP towards the power button. You need to pull the metal shield down a little (which stresses the ribbon cable) to get the hook-shaped feature free.

griffn -

The fastening on the board came loose when trying to remove screw the 1.2 mm Phillips screw. So the screw hole for that screw is still attached to the cover that I removed.

Aasmund Gravem - Reply

Got to step 13 and could not remove the 1.3mm screw (yellow circle), even using a different Phillips head screwdriver than the one that came with the kit. So frustrating. Was able to remove the other screws leading up to this point without difficulty (used the saran wrap trick on the other screws to prevent stripping, but this 1.3mm screw just would not budge).

Ended up abandoning the screen replacement--luckily the phone works after putting it back together.

Gayle - Reply

In my case, the 1.3 screw (yellow) wouldn't tighten on reassembly. I might have tightened too much so that it stripped the screw hole. Anyone know whether this has damaged the board in some way. The phone works fine, but concerned about the long run.

Casltech - Reply

Image 1/2: Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top and remove it from the iPhone.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cable cover tabs out of their slots cut into the EMI shield on the logic board.

  • Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top and remove it from the iPhone.

If you just very slightly twist this plate clockwise as you are lifting it out, it will help as there is a little hooked piece at the lower edge on the very far right. You have to be careful not to turn it too much though because this hooked piece is right beside a ribbon that could be damaged.

Trisch - Reply

To add to Trisch's comment:

If turn the plate clockwise doesn't do the trick, the hooked piece on the lower right comes off when you pull the plate towards you a tiny bit. Still, watch out not breaking that ribbon the hooked piece is behind of.

jasperm - Reply

If you're having trouble removing the EMF shield, try using a plastic prying tool to lift the top right part while pushing it ever so slightly downwards with a finger. Consult this video for details:

oysteinespedal - Reply

Image 1/2: Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.

  • Remove the rear camera from the iPhone.

  • There is a small rubber gasket that sits underneath the rear-facing camera. Make sure that it is properly seated before reassembly.

Im pretty sure that when you reinsert the cam the grounding clip has go to between metal sticker and the cam body, or the camra wont be grounded

Michael Rygaard - Reply

I've got a trouble at this step. Is there anybody who could help me out with my problem? When I was removing the camera module, accidently removed small element, which is marked with the red line

As I figured out - that is the SMD capacitor. After that Iphone was switched on, and it seems to be working fine at the moment, but I am very scared, if it will continue to work well without that small piece. Anybody to help?

soubi8 - Reply

In my case, the grounding clip was taped to the camera! In addition, my repair process stopped at this step as the left screw on the power button had come out and was floating around next to the camera slightly stuck to the tape. This was lucky since a loose screw in an iPhone under the logic board would be a bad omen.

Michael Scollay - Reply

Image 1/2: This may require a significant amount of force.
  • Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

  • Remove the SIM card and its holder.

I have an Iphone 4 but the inerds look more like this 4S than the 4, except I do not have a SIM card port. What's up?

Dave - Reply

Probably a CDMA (Verizon) iPhone 4.

Pepper -

Is there a reason for waiting until step 18 to remove the sim card and its holder? I can do it right before I start without much force, is this not better?

jmaelzer - Reply

I don't see any reason. So it was my step 1 to remove the SIM card.

Ida -

I agree that the SIM card should be removed before you even start. After I completed this repair (waiting until this step to remove the SIM), the SIM card and holders won't go flush with the side of the phone anymore. The phone still works and everything else is fine, it's just annoying that I have a SIM holder sticking out about 1mm. I'm not certain this step caused this, but I'm just letting folks know that I agree with jmaelzer.

Song - Reply

for the life of me I can NOT get this sim card and holder out!

Lori - Reply

To be honest, it's really hard to remove SIM card without a correct tool.

Beck Sisyphus - Reply

You have to PUSH the paperclip IN, then the tray pops OUT.

Floris Jansen - Reply

I agree. Push in.

ivesrubl -

ifixit needs to edit this: "significant force" is NOT needed! I started to bend out the hole until I read the last post- just push the tool straight in, the SIM card will eject easily.

soopamandan - Reply

Is there any reason why you still have the ribbon cable under the little metalic plate (right under the sticker that says "Authorized Service Provider Only") plugged in in STEP 10. And it is without any instruction step removed in STEP 12? I mean it's not like it is complicated, but when I got to that part I was confused there for a minute that I forgot some step, and then reassured myself that I did everything as it said in the manual.

Tadeas Bucha - Reply

I have done everything correctly but when i turn the phone on all i get is a blank screen. The phone operates as normal i.e. it rings, vibrates etc but the screen is just blank so you can't actually do anything with it :(

anyone had the same issue?

mark - Reply

Image 1/2: Headphone jack/volume button cable
  • Remove the five cables near the top of the logic board in the following order:

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable

    • Front facing camera cable

    • Digitizer cable

    • Display data cable

    • Power button cable (located underneath the headphone jack/volume button cable as shown in the second picture.)

  • To disconnect the cables, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently lift their connectors up and out of the sockets on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any of the small and delicate surface mount components as you disconnect the cables.

There is an additional cable that you have to disconnect that's under the headphone jack cable. You have to do this before you try to remove the logic board. Otherwise, you'll rip that cable.. and I just freaking did.

Dennis - Reply

The digitizer cable won't reach! I've already ripped it off once. which disconnect are you talking about?

kct16k -

I just ripped off the power cable ... i can live without the power button though!

Oreste Attanasio - Reply

is that sarcasm or is there really a way to turn on the phone without the power button?

Sharn de Wet -

The only way to turn on an iPhone without a power button is to plug it in to power. If it was shut down while connected to a sync cable then disconnect and reconnect for it to turn on.

ben0509 -

I just broke off the power button as well because I forgot to disconnect the cable. Thank goodness for chargers and assistive touch!

grilledsoap -

Need to remove the shield over the connectors first. Look at the other guides for the 4S they show the 4 screws and how to lift the shield out, take out the camera etc.

Paul - Reply

During reassembly, I noticed that the data display cable is rather stiff. It may be a bit tricky to get it reconnected, but you'll know once it's in.

bsporer3 - Reply

That power cable connector is very delicate. I managed to tear it just a tiny bit in the curve of the cable too. So I’ve got another part on order now. Apart from that the screen replacement went great ;) I’m not sure at which step the tear actually happened, it might have been during re-assembly when I was trying to get all these cables to stay on top of rather than go behind the motherboard. Realizing how easy that is to tear and keeping that in mind as you do this is important.

james - Reply

I ripped the power button cable(didn't see it), any chance it could be outlined with a dotted color in the future? (I'm bad at reading the warnings)

Eli Goethel - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the grounding clip to the logic board near the headphone jack.

During reassembly, note that this small 1.5 mm screw goes into a thread in the head of the larger 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.

gregm - Reply

Image 1/2: Carefully grasp the grounding clip and remove it from the iPhone.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the small grounding clip up off the logic board.

  • Carefully grasp the grounding clip and remove it from the iPhone.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the grounding clip (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

(be careful but gently forceful; the part doesn't come out without effort)

Carol Wade - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff near the headphone jack.

I used a metal spudger from the Pro Tech Toolkit to remove the standoff, seemed to work better for me than a flathead screwdriver.

Dirk Blom - Reply

The flathead screwdriver provided is much too small to remove this piece!

gluethje76 - Reply

I recommend that steps 20 and 21 are swapped. It's much easier to remove the wifi antenna flex from the board using the blue spudger if the board/PCB is still secured with the 4.8mm screw.

Removing the screw first makes the PCB move up too much when you're trying to detach the wifi flex and can lead to mishaps.

Paul L Daniels - Reply

Not all screwdrivers are equal. I took mine in the shop and ground the blade thinner then made sure the end was square and flat. You can do this with an emery board or sand paper. You want a good fit in the stand-offs.

griffn - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna from the logic board.

Great Guide and thanks. Now...what if i snapped the wifi antenna cable together with its male connector from the board? Like tearing it apart ? Can this be replaced by any chance? Thanks!

spyrosandreou - Reply

I also had a problem with the connector breaking off, but after putting everything together, the WiFi seems to work like before, so I guess there is no problem there...

Dirk Blom - Reply

Ok so no fret here if you accidentally pull off the metal insert placed on top of the actual antenna. This step needs to be rewritten imo, the deal here is that there is an actual 'socket' looking deal underneath here that you need to lift up. There is a metal tab semi'glued' to that part of the antenna and it does come off easily, however all you need to do is press them back together to get them back, I believe it to be a range 'extender' of sorts.

So your looking to actually lift up what looks a lot like a ribbon cable as well in this step. YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE A PIECE REMOVED IN THIS STEP, it's still in the case at this point.

Ben - Reply

I have connected my wifi antenna to the phone but when my phone switches on the wifi button is a grey colour and won't let me turn it on, help?

melissamerin -

Image 1/2: Remove the 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the logic board near the power button.
  • If present, peel the piece of black tape covering the hidden screw near the power button.

  • Remove the 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the logic board near the power button.

    • (Use caution when removing this screw and removing the power contact held by it; the contact tab will come loose with the screw)

  • Notice the small rubber bumper under the screen & digitizer cables (which are detached at top above the Q-code). This bumper can fall off of the logic board when removed or get stuck to the cables and fall off later.

Dimension given are Length of screw. I think it meant to say 2.6mm screw.

Jon - Reply

Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it. It falls off after the logic board is removed and should be replaced before reassembly.

ghodges - Reply

where the heck does it go back on the logic board?! It fell off during removal and I cant seem to locate it in the pictures. :(

Shaun Brown -

As noted: Put the bumper back right above the white bar code label. The label says Q5M on the far right side. The bumper goes on the edge of the board to protect the ribbon cables that bend over the board.

griffn -

So, my 2.6 Philips screw near the power cable just spins and spins. It happened the first time, so I know I didn't strip it. Any ideas?

thebacks - Reply

So, I couldn't gind the tape and instead of digging around. I did what no one should do. I twisted and pulled. So now the screw that holds the upper left corner on broke that part of the logic board off. Everything else went back great....Phone won't turn on. Am I screwed here?

cdays01 - Reply

step 13 - “One 1.3 mm Phillips screw”

step -22 “Notice the small rubber bumper under the screen & digitizer cables (which are detached at top above the Q-code)”

“Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it”

now, the problem :-)

while assembly the iPhone I screw by mistake the 2.6 mm instead of the 1.3, and without noticing I break the 1.3 base screw from the motherboard :-/

Now, the rear camera is not working.

I couldn't figure in the picture above, if the rubber bumper you mean, is under that screw or above the Q5M tag ?

Can it be that the dewar camera don’t work because of that broken screw?

Any idea how to fix it?

Is there any option to buy the rubber bumper, if I lost it ?

Appreciate any help,


Simon - Reply

Under the screw is a ground clip from step 25. I tweezed it out here since it might bounce free while pulling logic board out. Use a big white towel as a work surface to prevent wayward bouncing bits from flying off the table.

griffn - Reply

Caution: the image with the QR code is "mirrored" --> look at it "reversed" !

jacquesfforster - Reply

Image 1/1: One 2.5 mm Phillips screw near the vibrator motor
  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the case:

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips screw near the vibrator motor

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

    • One 3.6 mm standoff along the side of the logic board nearest the battery opening.

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the single 3.6 mm standoffscrew.

I used a metal spudger from the Pro Tech Toolkit to remove the standoff, seemed to work better for me than a flathead screwdriver.

Dirk Blom - Reply

The Kit Provided flat head screw driver didn't fit in the stand off screw heads on my IPhone 4s. I had to use it in only one side of the screw notch to slowly twist them out. Its doable but could use a larger flat head, but the blade needs to be micro thin.

Clay - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the logic board.
  • Carefully lift the logic board from the end closest to the speaker enclosure and slide it away from the top edge of the iPhone.

  • Remove the logic board.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the logic board (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

  • There is a small rubber bumper that sits on the top edge of the logic board where the digitizer and screen cables come through the case. It protects the cables as they bend over the top of the logic board. This can either get stuck to the cables or fall off the logic board when it comes out. Look back over step 22 for more details.

After I had lifted the logic board and moved around a little a small rubber piece fell off. Approx. 1 cm long and 2 mm wide. I'm guessing it's for some sort of isolation between the board and the chassis. Where should it go when I reassemble the phone?

The piece I'm referring to can be seen on the table in the upper right corner in this video:

Simon Fransson - Reply

It sits between the logic board top-edge and the two ribbon leads from the screen. Its purpose is to stop the PCB cutting in to the FPC leads over time due to vibrations. If you require I can send a photo.

Paul L Daniels -

hey, i removed the logic board and gave it a bit isopropanol spray. is this ok? how can i found out if it is working? is it possible to remove something from the logic board? thank you :)

bne - Reply

On reassembly, make sure you lift up the power button cable before installing circuit board. I thought I had all of the cables lifted until after getting to step 17 (in reverse) only to find out power cable was under the circuit board. Added 15 minutes to my process.

juanocasio - Reply

I had a similar problem as I was back tracking steps to perform something I missed and actually broken the power and sensor cable (the one that is connected to the digital board first during re-installation. A secondary order and another 20 minutes took care of it. Glad you were able to not hit that barrier.

mattwilber -

On reassembly, you are putting the plate under the spaghetti. I went back a few times to get all the cables out. Here is a check list before you tighten any logic board screws or try to jam the top edge of the board in place:

Counter clockwise from upper right near power button:

- Wi-Fi Cable from step 21

- 5 cables near the camera from step 17.The ‘blue’ power cable underneath loves to hide. The ‘orange’ front facing camera cable can get kinked under the board during re-install (no more selfies on this phone).

- Dock cable from step 9

- Cell Antenna from step 11

Go slow. Look twice.

griffn - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button. This finger rests on top of the PCB, screwed down, and covered with the adhesive black plastic tape.

if I LOSE it, what will happen?

Actually, i DID lose it.

XuKaimeng - Reply

Hi. This little clip is responsible for the image stabilization on the 4S. When the iPhone 4S was launched, one of the things that were different from iPhone 4 was Image Stabilization, specially when the user was filming. This clip holds the camera module in place while the phone is shaking in the hands of the user. Pretty high tech :D

Pedro de Almeida Silva Chaves -

Apparently it had uncovered my iPhone before, because when I did not find this piece uncapped here. I need to know which function is on the iPhone and if it is very important. How could I get?

Raul Tejada - Reply

Hi, I had the phone apart to replace the wifi chip.

Has anyone found a source for the two nano sized SMD resistors, because this also causes "no wifi" syndrome due to them being important for the I2C lines.

thanks!!! -A email testing_h "at "

Andre De Guerin - Reply

I think this is one of the parts I didn't put back in... Does it affect anything?

Also, Took apart my iPhone 4S to fix the screen and battery... Now the camera light doesn't turn on and I'm left with two pieces. Help!

Here are the parts:

Nicole - Reply

Left part: See step 5 - "Take notice of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector".

Right part: See step 25 - "Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button".

Simon Fransson -

I removed this in step 22 even though it only slightly alluded to it. If you did, too, don't panic. Go find your step 22 parts and verify it is there. :)

christopherjwells - Reply

What are the consequences of losing the 'small grounding finger for the rear view camera'?

3chris3rivers3 - Reply

Hi. This little clip is responsible for the image stabilization on the 4S.

Pedro de Almeida Silva Chaves -

I did it. No problems!!!

I used a Tupperware orange peeler as a plastic opening tool and didn't touched any screws oder other inner parts.

I had to do it two times, because my old 4S 64GB has a broken WLAN Chip on the logic board, and my wifes 4S has broken her display glass. So I took her logic board into my 4S body. Now we have one running iPhone 4S 64GB instead of two broken phones.

HaJo - Reply

HELP! Miy clip does look different, and i have no idea how to fit it in

slipknot660 - Reply

This little piece was missing when I opened my phone, seems it was lost last time I sent it to the repair shop for screen replacement.. :-( but it does take pictures

Jose Fernandez - Reply

Image 1/3: Pry the vibrator up to release it from the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.
  • Wedge the plastic opening tool between the vibrator and the side of the iPhone.

  • Pry the vibrator up to release it from the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Remove the vibrator.

How do you reinstall the vibrator? Can the adhesive be used again for the reinstallation or do you need some new adhesive pad for installation?

Moritz - Reply

Very tacky adhesive. It is reusable. It also took the kind of slow, hard leverage the battery requires to remove.

griffn -

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 2.4 mm Phillips screws from the sides of the speaker enclosure assembly.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the small plastic bracket that was installed under the screw closest to the dock connector cable.

Rounded screw on the black metal piece.... fml what should i do

Randy Peaslee - Reply

What to do if I lost the bracket? Without it, the screw really has no purpose, as the left side of the speaker enclosure assembly just slides up past it and the wifi grounding fingers slide up from under the lip.

LaurenB - Reply

Image 1/2: Before reinstalling the speaker enclosure assembly's screws, be sure the Wi-Fi grounding fingers are installed below the lip in the iPhone's metal case as seen in the second picture.
  • Remove the speaker enclosure assembly from the iPhone.

  • Before reinstalling the speaker enclosure assembly's screws, be sure the Wi-Fi grounding fingers are installed below the lip in the iPhone's metal case as seen in the second picture.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points between the grounding fingers of the Wi-Fi antenna and the case of the iPhone with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Careful not to lose the tiny rubber spacer that sits below the mic enclosure - I nearly did as it is not mentioned here, probably because it rarely comes out. See mention and photo of this in this guide, step 20: Dock Connector Replacement

hutchwilco - Reply

I had some problems with the cellular cable during re-installation. It actually had gotten scratched to where the wire was actually worn and the silver cable was visible. I discovered this once it was all closed and the phone's cellular status was always "Searching...". A little bit of electrical tape over the exposed area seemed to take care of this.

mattwilber - Reply

Successfully reinstalled the display, but now the lower speaker doesn't work. I'll have to reopen it to find out what's up. So many possibilities for error.

apathos1 - Reply

Image 1/1: Note: These corner screws are not the same thickness as the other 1.5mm screws.  Set them aside separately.
  • Remove the small pieces of black tape covering the display mounting tabs.

  • Note: These corner screws are not the same thickness as the other 1.5mm screws. Set them aside separately.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the display assembly near the power button.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: Removing the headphone jack makes it easier to access this screw, particularly during reassembly. If you're having trouble, refer to [guide|7281|this section of the iPhone 4S Headphone Jack Cable guide|stepid=31166|new_window=true] to remove the headphone jack.

Be very careful when removing this screw, as the angle of your screwdriver may risk stripping it. In order to be 100% safe, it may be worthwhile to remove the headphone jack connector. (There is a guide to do this as well.)

Kris - Reply

I've never taken this phone apart before and this screw is missing entirely.

sarawr -

This screw, as well as being difficult to get to in order to remove it, is very difficult to replace. Much patience is required as you can't get the right angle on the screwdriver to start with.

I suspect, given there are 10 screws holding the screen in !!!, that this one could be left out during a rebuild... especially as 'sarawr' mentioned her phone didn't even have one in in the first place.

Richard Aston - Reply

I also had problems getting at this screw, you really need to move to Step 27-31 of removing the headphone jack.

iPhone 4S Headphone Jack Cable Replacement

Don't recommend going any further and messing with the antenna. Then resume to step 34. Likewise ensure you back track when reassembling.

beckerma - Reply

I too had difficulty removing this screw, mainly because the ifixit bit driver is somewhat fat and gets in the way. Luckily, I had bought the replacement screen from iCracked and their provided screwdriver was somewhat thinner.

Be careful with this and have patience!

Logan Kennedy - Reply

This screw was very difficult to reinstall. I spent 50 minutes and much patience to get it back in without stripping it. I thought about not reinstalling it but pressed through making the job "complete" with no left over parts. The great thing is the phone works well saving a ton of money not having to replace it.

jamesrowland56 - Reply

Yes, this screw it's hard to reinstall. Here is what worked for me. I put the screw carefully on the side of the magnetic bit driver. Then I carefully aligned the screw perpendicular to its hole. Then I applied just a little bit of force to seat the screw in the hole. I carefully slid the screwdriver away and the screw stayed there in the right alignment. Then I went back in with the screwdriver and very carefully tightened it, making sure that it was threaded properly. It worked.

adammenter - Reply

Brilliant tip.

chris -

Be careful "pushing aside" the headphone jack! I wanted good access to the upper-right display screw so I attempted to move the jack. It is not easy to tell that the jack is tethered to the secondary mic which is visible just to the left of the jack in the photo. The secondary mic needs to be removed at the same time as the jack. I broke the secondary mic off, and then needed to replace the headphone jack/secondary mic/volume button/mute button flex, which is an even harder repair!

cpwittenberg - Reply

I had exactly the same thing happen, cpwittenberg! Be careful, everyone who decides to take off the headphone jack! That secondary mike attachment is VERY easy to tear off.

suzanneb -

This screw stripped for me, I tried a few different 'tricks' to get it out. (Rubber band, super glue, even solder) Nothing worked. I ended up just snapping the display off of it, then snapping the corresponding piece on the new display.

Kyle McNally - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the lower microphone.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the dock connector cable.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: It is not necessary to completely remove these screws. When reinstalling the display assembly, be sure the washers are closest to the screw head (as seen in the second picture).
  • Loosen the three large-headed Phillips screws along the volume button side of the iPhone about one half turn.

  • It is not necessary to completely remove these screws. When reinstalling the display assembly, be sure the washers are closest to the screw head (as seen in the second picture).

Two of these screws refused to budge so I had to use a pair of pliers to carefully loosen them.

jux - Reply

I almost finished, but 2 screws won't come off! Now I'm stuck.... the screen broke off, but I can't put the new screen in because the prongs from the old screen are still stuck. Any advice on loosening the last 2 screws?

kct16k - Reply

I can not get two of the washers out they wont even losen just a little :/ my hands are hurting and i just dont know what else to do i have searched and searched in hope to fine an answer and can not PLEASE HELP!

Shanaya Parsons - Reply

Cling wrap, 1-3 layers between the screwdriver and the screw, helped me get the grip i needed.

Also, I found if I put the phone on it's side for this step, I could screw straight down against the table and put more force into it.

Jonathan Hesser - Reply

My iPhone was missing one of these screws, but the two left they came out easily. I also tried the half-turn technique but gave up after washers were jammed or on the wrong side. I had no difficulty removing these completely and refitting them properly.

Other than raiding a dead iPhone, does anyone know where I could buy two additional screws with washers?

Michael Scollay - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Loosen the three large-headed Phillips screws along the other side of the iPhone about one half turn.

I found that I had to remove the 6 side screws and washers completely, because the new front tabs were bent inwards. To reinstall them all, I supported each screw on the up-facing tip of a magnetic screwdriver, then I placed the washer onto the screw with a tweezers, and then I inserted the screw upwards into its hole, never changing the orientation of the screwdriver.

cpwittenberg - Reply

Magnetic screwdriver, washers on the end. Brilliant tip, thanks.

chris -

It is very easy and helpful at the end of this step, to gently push down the screen holders in the 6 spots with screws and washers, that way the screen gently comes out and you don't have to poke with anything.

superedu111 - Reply

I had to cut out some of the flaps of the new screen in order to fit (also one of the corners like on step 31)... I have no idea if the replacement part was bought wrong or if it was a compatibility issue (my iPhone 4S was bought in London and the replacement from iFixit).

iansampaio - Reply

help me, i have one sweep screw on this point

chechechingon - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the display assembly around its perimeter.

While removing the Front, a black rubber piece fall off and I have no idea where it came from.

Has anyone a suggestion?

Martin Weber - Reply

If you cannot easily get the plastic opening tool in, you can gently push from the back in the corner near the head phone jack, where you can see a bit of black at the bottom. The black part is part of the display assembly.

kai - Reply

Thanks for tip. I couldn't get anything started with the pry tool. Pushing a glass panel from the back seemed rough, but it worked.

griffn -

Found using the small suction cup to help pull the screen up and then used the opening tool to pry apart.

Michael Lemaitre - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the display assembly from the iPhone.

When you reassemble the device, be absolutely sure that the digitizer cable is pulled all the way through the slot tends to get stuck since it has a sharp edge for whatever reason. Failing to notice that, the digitizer cable wont reach its socket. But not only that! Pressing the display against the case will introduce a more or less sharp bend to the cable which likely results in a broken digitizer cable, hence a broken digitizer!

Tobias Beer - Reply

Tobias is absolutely correct. It is imperative that you carefully straighten and feed the digitizer cable through so it has enough strain relief to make the connection. The key is to fold it up and once fed through, make sure it is as tall as it companion. Fail to do this and you have to take everything apart as it won't mate to the logic board ... yeah ... I had to do this.

Rayeng -

Snapped my digitizer cable by trying to pull it. apparently it just wouldnt fit on the logic board!!!

Miqdad Remtula - Reply

When putting everything back together, if you encounter "searching" for long time for your wireless signal, just manually set time/date and restart phone. It worked for me!


Kelvin - Reply

Use step 39-40 of Home button replacement. Be careful not to tear gasket and don't go further and remove gasket.

iPhone 4S Home Button Gasket Replacement

beckerma - Reply

Once my screen was removed, a piece of rubber fell out of the phone onto my work surface. I sweated and looked for half an hour, at the frame in my hand and at all the photos in the guide, for a place that it might fit. I eventually gave up, and my phone has been working fine without it, but where is this piece supposed to go?

Daniel Brauer - Reply

I had the same exact thing happen to me. I couldn't see where this piece came from either. Just like you, I gave up and reassembled my phone. It works just fine. I still held on to the part just in case, but I don't expect any problems.

djlogic26 -

It's been a month now, and I've been using my phone with no problems at all. Battery life is great, it has all sorts of reception, and there are no unusual sounds as the phone is shaken or put under pressure. Whatever that piece is, I feel like it's not important enough to put back in.

Daniel Brauer -

I didn't remember to look inside the iPhone 4S for this piece of rubber but I believe they are present in both AT&T and Verizon iPhone 4's. The rubber wraps around the edge of the main logic board where the display and digitizer cables wrap around. It's not needed for proper operation but may protect the cables from long term flex and wear against the edge of the board.

Wallace Karraker -

It attaches to the logic board by where the cables for the display assembly sit next to it. I guess it protects the cables from the hard edge of the logic board.

codyandreasen -

When you are putting the new screen on make sure the little wires are pulled all the way through! or else you will be very frustrated 15 steps later and have to go back again.

bryanreale2 - Reply

To add to the last comment, one of the of the digitizer cables was was too short. I disassembled it twice to figure out it was folded. When I straightened it out it snapped. A 12.0 repair turned into over a 100.00 when I had to replace the screen assy. But, still cheaper than a new phone.

apmorency - Reply

If you use an aftermarket replacement, the backlight might flicker until you temporarily disable autobrightness or let it sit for up to 6 hours. There's quite a few comments about this on other forums but figured one here would be relevant. Otherwise, this was great.

Matt Mazzuckelli - Reply

Broke my digitizer cable. Dammit. This is by far the hardest part. Failure is here. :(

jeshii - Reply

When removing the screen from the casing, a screw fell out from somewhere - I have no idea where from or what it does - anyone have any ideas?

Tim - Reply

Oh, and all screws I removed are accounted for

Tim -

I'm having an issue with the front camera's clear plastic ring.

When I try and put the replacement front display on the front the ring does not seem to line up with the camera.

Any tips?

andre - Reply

Try putting the ring around the camera itself rather than adhesing it to the new screen and trying to line it up. Its a simple solution but I admit I certainly didnt think of it right away and had the same trouble as you

Nick Hughes -

Nick has the right answer- the grooves on the ring will slide into the gap around the camera. I realized this the hard way by glueing the the ring to the display side. Luckily I was able to get it off without totally destroying it.

madmaxmedia -

Fellas, is it possible to detach digitizer from the front cover? I got this pink front cover I want to install in my GF's iphone, but it came without a digitizer? So can I just remove the old digitizer and install it into the new front cover?

Matt - Reply

Did everything to Step 37.. then Step 38 (yep the step of replacing the screen) almost discouraged me due to the presence of the rubber-like ring on the replacement screen (around the back camera). Since this ring was also present on the phone body, both prevented the new screen from fitting nicely. It wasn't obvious for me at first until I forcibly removed the ring from the replacement screen. Re-screwed every piece and it works like charm!!!

A serious recommendation for anyone attempting repairs: get the toolkit from iFixit!!! Don't also forget the magnetic mat - it is a MUST!!!

Emmanuel Ngwane - Reply

Look closely at the digitizer cable before you reinstall the screen. The cable is wider at its base and that part sits flush against the panel when you receive it. It doesn't look like it goes quite alongside the display data cable, but it does; do a quick check to make sure that both are the same length, and if they're not, look to see if the wider part of the cable is not pressed flat. You'll need every millimetre of length to connect it properly.

Also, you might be tempted to believe that the digitizer cable goes through the small hole above where the display data cable goes (it's pretty hard to see where things came from when you first remove the display). It doesn't; it nestles right against the display data cable. If you try to put it through the small hole, you're apt to rip the top off it by accident. There's really nothing more frustrating than painstakingly taking apart an iPhone only to break your replacement part.

rob - Reply

Getting the digitizer cable threaded without having it fold or kink is, without question, the single hardest part of this whole repair. Everything else requires just being meticulous, measuring twice and cutting once, and making sure you use a reasonably light touch when detaching contacts, etc.

And after 37 steps (o hai Hitchcock!) you feel like you're home free.

But the digitizer cable is the last henchman between you and the Bond villain, the last lock protecting the treasure.

After you've threaded it through, pull GENTLY to make sure it extends fully (both cables should be about the same length), and check on the underside to make sure there's no fold. This is where a mm or two makes ALL THE DIFFERENCE. Keep checking it occasionally as you screw down the screen, because you don't want to have to go back after you've installed the logic board.

And I've replaced with both iFixit kits and 3rd party screens. The cable is always an issue-- but with patience they DO extend far enough.

AlexSPangC86 - Reply

Agreed. Had to troubleshoot by tearing the iPhone again only to notice this stupid mistake, digitizer cable was ripped.

It is very sensitive, be very careful.

Tommi Topio -

Ditto on not pulling too hard on the digitizer cable. Mine tore trying to reassemble. There went $20. Reassembled with my cracked screen until I can get another replacement. Now I know and knowing is half the battle....

Cody Schafer - Reply

Image 1/2: Remember to [guide|7282|switch the home button|stepid=31173] from your old display to the new display (in most cases, this is not provided). The home button gasket is thin rubber, so care must be taken not to tear it. Also, check that the mesh for the speaker hole is present in the replacement; if not, move it over from the old display.
  • To successfully install a new/replacement display assembly, note the following:

  • Remember to switch the home button from your old display to the new display (in most cases, this is not provided). The home button gasket is thin rubber, so care must be taken not to tear it. Also, check that the mesh for the speaker hole is present in the replacement; if not, move it over from the old display.

  • Be sure to peel off the protective backing (usually blue or pink) from the new panel before installing it.

  • If your replacement display does not come with a 7 mm clear plastic ring surrounding the front-facing camera, be sure to transfer it between the old and new display.

can some one tell me how to test the new display before reinstalling it?

Bin Lee - Reply

How do I stick the speaker mesh and plastic ring back on?

Doc Brown - Reply

Careful, when I removed the blue plastic coating on my replacement display, it peeled up the silver sheet component too. make sure the sheet separates properly

websites140 - Reply

Image 1/3: Carefully straighten the digitizer and LCD data cables, and feed them through the slot cut in the outer case. [|This photo|new_window=true] on the left shows the display assembly being installed '''incorrectly''', with a loop in the digitizer caught in the slot of the enclosure. The center photo shows the loop.
  • Whether installing a replacement display assembly or re-using the existing display assembly, note the following:

    • Carefully straighten the digitizer and LCD data cables, and feed them through the slot cut in the outer case. This photo on the left shows the display assembly being installed incorrectly, with a loop in the digitizer caught in the slot of the enclosure. The center photo shows the loop.

    • The photo on the right shows the digitizer cable being correctly fed through to its full length.

    • If the digitizer cable has been installed incorrectly, it will not reach its socket on the logic board. Do not attempt to pull it through by force, or it will be cut by the sharp enclosure, and tear where the loop in the cable joins with the thinner cable lead. Remove the display assembly, straighten the cable, and re-feed the loop correctly.

the picture on the right is the wright one

Matthias Bauerpfundstein - Reply

I made a very dumb mistake and ripped the cable.

It is very sensitive, I cannot address how important patience is with this step :D

Tommi Topio - Reply

Image 1/1: After reassembly, clean the touchscreen surface with an alcohol wipe prior to turning the iPhone back on. The alcohol helps dissipate any lingering static electricity, which can cause problems with the display.
  • During reassembly, do not touch the metallic area at the base of the LCD data cable, as this can cause problems with the LCD. If you do touch it accidentally, clean it gently with an alcohol wipe before continuing.

  • After reassembly, clean the touchscreen surface with an alcohol wipe prior to turning the iPhone back on. The alcohol helps dissipate any lingering static electricity, which can cause problems with the display.

  • After reassembly, connect the iPhone to an AC power source before turning it on for the first time. Once the iPhone has booted up successfully, you can disconnect the AC power.

  • After reassembly, protect your new display from any scratches by installing a new screen protector.

I did everything as in the guide (or at least I hope), I reassembled the phone and everything but when I connect it to the charger continues to make a sound and will not turn on.

What does it mean?

Maura79 - Reply

have you found any solution ?? Because i have the same problem and i have no idea about what to do

MWino -

Try re-seating the dock connector cable. The charger connection goes through this connection to the iPhone.

richguard - Reply

So my screen works, ive connected to my network, and i can even make phone calls. but im getting terrible quality of sound from the top speaker. anyone know which part i may want to clean/check the connection on?

Bilardo - Reply

I have the same issue, did you find a solution?

slipknot660 -

I have the same issue, did you find a solution?

slipknot660 -

After reassembling with new screen, plugged into charger/computer the phone just repeatedly says "blunk". Once I re-plugged in the old screen, it worked fine. No bunks. I assume this means the phone boots up (~1m), then blunks if it can't get the screen. Amazing tutorial, but a tricky and time consuming venture. I'm about 8 hours in, with a half-dead phone.

but was it worth it - Reply

After following the guide to the exact, front-facing camera does not work properly.

Anyone know how to fix this? You go into camera app, click to turn it to front-facing, it trys to come on put gets stuck and goes to what looks like it is trying to focus? Sorry it is hard to explain.

Before screen replacement, I believe it was working, not 100% for sure though.

Nancy - Reply

When I finished the repair, the touchscreen was no longer working and it said it was disabled for over 3000 minutes. Was there something I did wrong in the repair or was this out of my control?

riojas2021 - Reply


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

2347 other people completed this guide.


Excellent guide, thank you.

One thing to note, on Step 23 i'm not so sure the screw is a 1.6mm, pretty sure it's larger than that.

Great stuff, thank again!!

gary - Reply

Exellent guide, i made the change in about 2 hours. No problem or confusion any time. Thanks!

Tobbe - Reply

Helpfull tip... I printed these instructions and then taped each screw to the spot in the instructions with scotch tape.

Kevin Keenan - Reply

AWESOME guide - very impressed. All works but I did wind up with an extra part so I must've improved upon Apple's design. The part is a small, rectangular grounding clip (black and gold) with a single brass finger and a hole through the black part... this is NOT the one mentioned in Step 26. Not sure from where it came off & not inclined to dig back into it - but would love to know where it was from. It's 1:30 am here and I may be overlooking something idiotic... any help would be much appreciated. Thanks again, Jim

Jim McAward - Reply

Turns out my "extra" part was the one that James Molyneux mentioned, which comes out as part of Step 5. (The clip provides a bit of extra ground contact between the back of the WiFi antenna and the rear case.) Again, totally awesome instructions - thanks!

Jim McAward -

I used rubber gloves to completely disregard the whole washing with windex

Marvin Regalado - Reply

Thank you so much for this guide. It was a tremendous help!

I definitely recommend buying the tools to go along with the teardown. It's pretty much an impossible task otherwise.

leviasay - Reply

Super, Works perfectly. Thanks !

Thierry COTEN - Reply

After the entire grueling process, I was confident in my repair. Everything works... Except the touch screen. I disassembled and re-assembled at least 3 times but to no avail. Everything seems to be working fine, no tears, bends or breaks in the cables... Anyone having a similar issue? So bummed...

1force1 - Reply

The cable of the digitizer was likely damaged. Happened to me because of my carelessness. Had to change the screen again.

jppellet -

EXCELLENT guide. Part recommended, LCD (digital assembly) was the exact fix I needed. Step by step with recommendation & tools were perfect. One of the blue plastic tools did break but my son was able to work without it after. It took him 1hour & 50 mins. I read everybody's ideas and helpful hints & all were very much appreciated. Thanks Again :)

cbabin1119 - Reply

I noticed that I lost all of my pictures and videos while completing this procedure. My text messages and other data remained, but my pics and videos were wiped out.

djlogic26 - Reply

The black tape in step 22 seems to be important to put pack. I did have problem with a touchscreen that did not work from time to time. The black tape was forgotten and when putting it back the Iphone worked fine.

Peter H - Reply

happy with replacement, great guide. two things happened; while reassembling I realised late that I had caught the power button connector cable under the logic board; I had to go back and lift logic board to find and reconnect, but now power button does not work at all. Bummer, but you can get at most of functions with the assistive services module. Second issue is I have noticed what I think might be a change in calibration of the GPS; I use RunKeeper and suddenly my routine morning run seems to have stretched in length and increased in pace! not sure what to do here--any advice?

paulgilna - Reply

I stupidly removed the battery connection whilst the phone was on with a small flat metal screw driver, which in turn has blown something up in the phone. has anyone else done this before an know what part it is i now need to replace?

Vinnie Ebbrell - Reply

Great Guide.

Did the change in a bit more than 2 hours with some little breaks in it... so I would say working time about 2h.

First at turning on I was shocked, because the iPhone couldn't find any network (carrier), but a few reboots later and after setting time and date it was fine. (Read somewhere that setting the time could make a difference in detecting carriers)

dominic - Reply

You wrote the details the way I should have. but there is no point in just repeating all you said, Thanks ;-)

Pierre Merineau -

I'm thinking of following this guide to fix my missus iPhone 4S as if I bought the parts it's a lot, lot cheaper than paying someone else to fix it. Is it wise for me to have a go at repairing her phone? (She dropped it and smashed the glass but the phone is still usable)

Aaron - Reply

I made a crude MS paint outline with circles and shapes where all the screws and parts go, print the drawing, and set all the parts where they go...makes it very simple

Rob - Reply

Thanks for a great guide! Unfortunately, I have lost the triangular bracket on step 28. Does anyone know how I can buy a new one?

A Bundy - Reply

Outstanding guide. Worked. Key is to stay organized!

alex sass - Reply

Awesome guide. I was lucky to have a friend tell me to Google "iPhone screw chart" before I performed these steps. I printed out the screw chart & set all the tiny screws/parts on it. Really helped for re-assembly.

Also wanted to mention that I bought my screen from Group Vertical on Amazon, shipped from USA + PRIME eligible. It arrived in 2 days, very high quality.

Good luck - remember take your time, never force anything. Some of the adhesive is strong especially on the battery and vibrator. Don't forget to transfer your speaker shield and home button. Do these with extreme caution or they will rip.

Michael Bane - Reply

Excellent Instructions, I have changed my Display assembly with the above steps.


Manish Bajpai

Manish Bajpai - Reply

I've just done a front display change on my wife's phone using this and your videos on YouTube as my guides. Excellent instructions and very clear photos. It's really useful that they blow up so big as you can see so much detail in them. Brilliant! Thanks very much. =o)

Colin - Reply

Thank you so much for this guide! Some fellow student brought their iPhone with a screen replacement up to the "Nerdery" in our school (I have no idea whose it was). The procedure went well, I would have been lost without this guide. The documentation is great! Telling us the screw sizes really helped because I was able to organize them and label them with the magnetic project mat.

One slight error on my part however. After I completely reassembled the phone and was turning it on, I noticed that the screen replacement didn't have the mesh covering for the earpiece! Tomorrow I am going to redo the whole thing just so I can take the mesh covering from the old screen and install it on the new one.

Pro tip: Pay very close attention to all of the little details! Get the magnetic project mat with marker, it helps so much. If you don't have it, you will confuse screws and lose parts.

Thanks again for the great guide!

Spencer - Reply

Just saying if you buy the project mat and a replacement screen (you are now in the project about $40) - for only another $20 someone will fix it for you....

Jordan G -

Looks easy but I'm too distracted to deal with tiny called phone kings in Memphis repaired mine for $20. I bought my own screen off eBay. Well worth it to me

sam - Reply

So am I just reconnecting or do I need a whole new digitizer?

kuulparker24 - Reply

Used this guide to fix a friends' iPhone 4S this evening. Very clear, concise directions helped me make an easy repair in an unfamiliar situation. Thank you...

Chris - Reply

Thank you, very much!

Brian Meskill - Reply

Excellent Guide! it was a bit time consuming but i took the slow and cautious route and with the iFixit pro toolkit had all the tools i needed for the job plus with the magnetic project map all the many parts and screws stayed organized! (no i wasn't paid to say that lol) but the disassembly wasn't as big of a nightmare as i thought it would be. Keep up the great work!

Greg - Reply

Took apart my iPhone 4S to fix the screen and battery... Now the camera light doesn't turn on and I'm left with two pieces. Help!

Here are the parts:

Nicole - Reply

@ Nicole.

The picture shows the parts from step 4 (third picture) and 25.

I am sorry to tell you, you will have to open the phone again.

Good luck.

Pierre Merineau - Reply


After replacing the new display my phone won't charge...:( any tips to fix this?

Best regards Kim

Kim - Reply


My guess is to take a look at the step 29 to make sure the contacts are placed properly

Pierre Merineau - Reply

Absolutely the best procedure I've ever followed. The only thing I'd suggest is making it possible to display the large photograph for other than the first photograph in each step. (Of course, it's possible that this is already possible and that I simply am not smart enough to figure it out). Anyway, managed to repair my daughter's phone in a little over 2 hours - I'm wrapped! Thank you so much

Andy Linahan - Reply

Best and clearest tutorial I found for the 4s, could not have done it without your clear instructions and pictures! Thanks for the tutorial!

lowlead - Reply

Excellent guide! The reinstall process should be explained based on some key items to be reinstall

Jorge - Reply

It took me about 2.5 hours and part of the key was to identify with post it every part as indicated on each step and color and size with the help of an assistant for parts organization

Jorge - Reply

Thank you very much!!! Excellent guide, I would have never been able to do it without this guide!

Be VERY careful when you put the new replacement screen (STEP 37).

I cut the data cable of the digitizer and had to wait another 2 weeks before getting a new replacement screen! The digitizer cable must not be bent at all otherwise it will not reach to its socket on the logic board!

All the other steps were almost easy to do!

pascalgilbert - Reply

Incredible bad quality spare part (iPhone 4s screen). incredicle bad quality tools, I'm non asking for Wiha tools, but these are really terrible. First chance: flat cable from digitizer broken (I use to manage with thiskind of cables). Buy a 2nd screen (big mistake!). The screen is terrible and you can see the six leds in the top, like you have six bulbs over your screen. Problems with signal. Disassembled again and applied isopropanol to contacts. Fantastic, the bad screen quality traped some drops between screen layers. Had to dissasemble the screen to try to dry the drops (which ofc appeared on the image). Assembled the phone again. Power button did not work at all, and display image was as poor as before cleaning the layers. Very low brightness in front view and normal from a 170 degrees angle... Well, opoened the phone again, with others tool ofc, since the ones provided by ifixit were unusable, pull out the main board to protect my data and throw the rest to bin. Buy some screen cheaper from eBay.

franciscovl - Reply

You sound like the WORST tech in the world. No offence, but half your story sounds like bullshit to me.

Grant Ormsby -

Excellent guide! Thanks so much for all of the detailed pictures. I used the previous user's suggestion about taping all of the screws and parts to a print out, which helped immensely in the reassemble. The whole process from start to finish took about 3 hours, and there were no surprises. The warnings in the guide about little bits here and there to watch out for were very helpful in avoiding mistakes, so use them!

Shannon - Reply

So I did everything as following everything works flawless except my auto lock button on top of the phone, or power button I think its called. Everything was properly connected any chance as why it wont work ? I have to wait a minute everytime for my phone screen to go back to lock status. If I do a factory reset could this work ?

david vargas - Reply

Great guide. Instructions were easy to follow and pictures really helped. My screen and back look like new.

irobert13 - Reply

I found same problem with step 8. Accidentally screwed up and added a new step 9 and 10 by mistake which I can't seem to remove. But as for step 8. the red 1.5mm screw is on the left and the orange 1.2mm screw is on the right.

Mars Starcruiser - Reply

Excellent guide, left no questions about what should be done.

coreyrm21 - Reply

Did the whole fix, and everything seems to be working fine exept the phone can't find any network. It is stuck searching. I reopened the phone and checked the antenna conection, but I can't see anything wrong with it.

Aasmund Gravem - Reply

But after a few resets I found the reason... I had turned of cellular data ;) Now everything works smoothly and I have a shiny whole screen. I only wish I had bought a battery at the same time, so I could have improved the lifetime for my device a bit more. Cheers.

Aasmund Gravem -

I have replaced the display assembly once and it was time intensive and grudgingly slow because you don't want to tear any of the flat wires but I was thorough and diligent and it paid off.

Something they do not tell you in this guide is to create a diagram of the iphone and draw where each screw goes as you remove it because there are more screws than I am sure of I can provide you a precise number but some of the screws are different sizes so you have the potential of damaging your phone or it not working correctly upon reassembly. I actually traced the phone, drew out each part and screw then taped the screw to the piece of paper.

Note: Be careful working on a surface that is not flat because if you are working with the screws there is a possibility it could fling off the paper and it does not take much for this to happen so be careful people and good luck!

Nephew - Reply

The "difficult" tag, I think is probably going to put some people off. fiddly and time consuming but not that difficult.

Get a helping hands clamp, a good work light and a good pair of fine point tweezers

The multitude of tiny slightly different screws is a real pain. order a spare set before starting. Also have a tray to put them in with a label to identify which one goes where because you will never be able to tell them apart by eye.

I must have missed a connection as I had to do part of the reassembly twice but a careful check sorted it.

SO in conclusion - just do it! it isn't that difficult unless you are really clumsy and have fingers like sausages! Its incredibly liberating which I guess is what the founders of Ifixit discovered when they started.

I think iFixit is probably one of the finest resources available anywhere, I wish I had thought of it, wish it had more of a following here in the UK and would love to help develop it here.

Fantastic job -well done and thanks

simon - Reply

Having stripped the phone and completed assembly my screen appears and all buttons work but I can,t swipe/slide to unlock. Any suggestions?

I have gone over the whole process three times and the same thing each time. I have also replaced the black tape in step 22.

malcolm - Reply

Just completed two phones this guide was very helpful. Word of advice, get the power button for your new screen. Reuse of the old one will not seal the button properly.

jelk123 - Reply

This guide is wonderful. I did it. Thank you so much fixers.

Onur Koc - Reply

Excellent Guide and the comments are well worth reading. I installed the first replacement and it did not work. Had to reinstall the old broken one while I waited for a replacement (of the replacement). Followed the instructions when I received the replacement and all is well. The best suggestions by far are the latex gloves and some sort of egg-crate to put the parts in.

Go my part from Inkojet. They were gracious about replacing the "installed" part. I tested the second replacement by plugging it into the MB before I took the whole thing apart again. I highly recommend testing first (and so does Inkojet).


Wade - Reply

Just wondering - how did you test the new screen by plugging it into the motherboard? Do you open up the device and "unplug" the digitizer and LCD display cables from the logic board, and "plug in" the cables from the new display assembly? I wish I had done this, I am having issues and don't want to waste a lot of time re-doing the repair if I got a bad part.

kagunderman -

Use a large white sheet of paper (I taped 4 81/2 x11 sheets of paper together) to place components/screws on. Circle the components/screws and write the step number in the circle. This will make reassembly a breeze.

juanocasio - Reply

After reassembly, the CELL CONNECTION WASN'T WORKING. You might need to slightly bend the contact in step 5 up just a little, so it will make contact with the metal back plate. Did that and it worked perfectly.

Great kit, great instructions, thanks!

AirPhonesApp - Reply

Excellent instructions. This was a difficult procedure and I don't recommend it for the novice. I bought the magnetic project mat to kee track of all the parts. I highly recommend getting this as it helped keep all the little screws and parts organized. Thank you iFixit for making this repair possible!

markcooperstein - Reply

This has, quite literally, been the most enjoyable thing I've done in a long time.

Took me three hours to do on the dot, and that was with what appears to be an old guide now! (The unverified version is how my phone was set up).

I printed out the guide and taped the screws to the corresponding step, it helped immensely! I want to do this for a living...

delcatty - Reply

After this my iphone wont turn on. not working :(

M4dsk1llzz - Reply

It took 3 hours but just because I didn't want to mess things up. Overall, easy! I paid particular attention to step 5 and 22 with those 2 little pieces and I took a couple of pics before. iPhone looks like new!

tonikosova - Reply

Didn't work at first! I was devastated. I think I hadn't pressed the display data connector to the logic board hard enough. Anyway taking everything back apart and starting over made the screen work. Colours are a more bleached and cool then I remember, but the screen looks good. So glad to have done this on my own (with your great guide). Thank you!

Flore - Reply

For all those people experiencing issues with the power button - take off the back again (steps 1-3) then skip ahead and do steps 13-14, and just double-check that the connecter for the power button is plugged in. it's sneaky and hides under the headphone/volume cable (see step 17). I fully missed it when i did it, so had a look through the instructions again and viola. Step 17 has a second image to show you where it should be

Liam - Reply

Everything came apart and went in nicely (don't mention the list screw or the time looking for it). I might have over tightened a couple of the screws on the sides. It shows up partially lit during startup. Otherwise seems to be fine.

beansbacon - Reply

Hi, I just follow up the guide, but i im unable to turn on the iphone, something is wrong, but no signal, i disassemble twice and assemble twice and nothing. iphone is dead :(

Any advice ?

rodrigovelazquez - Reply

and my iphone is dead

M4dsk1llzz -

After chaning my display it doesnt react on touch. It's ligtning up when i push the home button but don't react on touch. Someone who knows what can be wrong, have I missed something or have I broken something? Any clues?

uhlrog - Reply

Awesome guide! followed it to the letter. My digitizer didn't match up the first time, whoops! :) A little back tracking to get the ribbon through and I was golden. When fixing electronics never force anything. If you have to back up the bus just to get one little cord unstuck, do it. Its not worth paying another $40 for another display because you couldn't take the time to go back. That said I'm super happy I came to Ifixit I will recommend to all my friends in the future.

kellywstonge - Reply

This was an amazing guide. Be sure to feed the digitiser cables through safely....they do reach if you get it right. Took me 2 screens to get the repair right, but now I have an immaculate phone having replaced the front screen and back cover, so I can sell to get a 6 plus. Thanks for the wonderful lost 2 tiny screws along the way so get a magnetic mat if you can.

Glenn - Reply

Great guide for repairing the 4S of my daughter! Thank you very much!

peyrardfabrice - Reply

Worked great till the end. Stupid screen off this site didnt even work!

comkid16 - Reply

After replacing the cracked face, my iPhone does not come back on, tried recharging, still no life. Any thoughts on where I went wrong?

It worked before the replacement.

Robert McMullan - Reply

According to me, there are 3 possibility: 1) the new screen is broken. It happens, because it is a very breakable component; for example it could have been broken during the shipping or when you assemble it. 2) you broke (or you don't connect) the battery 3) You did a fatal damage on the motherboard. In this case you can't do anything else.

bion993 -

Excellent guide, very nice kit. Just gruelling to actually do it given the screws are to f... small.

Ferdinand von Kalm - Reply

ifixit con i suoi strumenti e le sue guide mi ha cambiato il lavoro! tanks....i love ifixit

Luxit Vitiello Reparo - Reply

Great Guide, I did it (almost) successful.

I have just a "little" problem. My iPhone can do videos (with frontal and rear camera, both), but it can't do photos. It's very strange: if I open the camera app on video mode, it works; instead if I open the camera app on photo mode, it doesn't work (black screen).

At beginning, I thought that I broke the camera, but when I see that it works in video mode, I can find a sense in this.

Can someone help me?

bion993 - Reply

Thanks!! Just switched the logic board out of a smashed case into the case of a 4s that someone dropped in wine... new screen.... best parts from each cleaned up.....Now works great! fun having two iPhones open and in pieces on your table.

Tony - Reply

One thing I would recommend is to make several outlines of your phone on a piece of paper and as you remove screws and parts, put them on the outline in the location they were in with regards to the inside of the phone. For the screws, I would put them on my outline on the paper where they came from, but would also write on the paper the step number (and if necessary color...some screws in the steps have a red circle, orange circle, etc). This replacement is not hard at all, but you have to be careful and take your time.

amaroudis - Reply

Thank you very much for this guide - very easy to follow and it was a complete life saver for a water damaged phone! When first dried out and plugged in, the screen was blank and it just kept making the charger connected sound over and over. Followed these instructions to take it apart and it turned out there was a little bit of corrosion on the digitizer, display and main camera cables. Cleaned everything (incl. letting the logic board swim in IPA for a day), reassembled and now it works like new :)

PS. For anyone having issues with reinserting screws or screwdrivers that look like they'll strip the screws, I got my set off Ebay for almost nothing and it works like a charm. The philips and pentalobe are also slightly magnetised so you can put the screw on the end where it sticks and just lower it into the phone

Anna - Reply

On step 30 when you are reconnecting the cables it's very important to install the power cable first. The power cable is underneath the headphone jack cable which can be seen in step 32 (you have to look really close). It would be nice to have a step added showing to reconnect the power cable before doing step 32. This caused my iphone-4s power on button to not work. Had to tear down again to find where the power cable was.

brianjacobs1000 - Reply

After reassembly there is no display, and when I plug it in it keeps buzzing.

I opened it back up and checked all connections, and every thing looks exact. any ideas

RobW - Reply

You CAN do this fix, I promise, just budget two hours at least. Some tips that helped me: (1) use surgical gloves throughout your project instead of the alcohol swab - it's much easier and less time intensive, (2) take a couple of sheets of paper, number the steps and have some scotch tape near by; as you go through the steps, tape the small parts and the screws (label them by color too!) to the step they go with so you don't lose anything or put something where it shouldn't be, (3) order the #000 screwdriver - it does NOT come in the liberation kit and you WILL need it for step 4, (4) have tweezers at the ready, (5) don't force anything (especially the cables) but if you're having trouble, don't be afraid to push or pry a little harder - just be mindful of the delicate pieces.

wcalvertfc - Reply

Most important!!!! do not pinch connectors from display. This is super easy to do and this is the first step. I noticed the screen was difficult to place and discovered that the connector was pinched. Screen is now ruined and I am back to square one. This should be the first comment.

lee - Reply

i turned my phone around to grab a screw and one small piece fell on the table. i have absolutely no idea where it should go ..

can someone help me ?

the pic is here, it's the piece next to the SIM rack (for size reference)


arnauddedecker - Reply

At first I wasn't sure I could do this, but I told myself "Hey you're handy with tools and have a degree in Electrical Systems....YOU CAN DO THIS!" LOL. By following the guide step-by-step and being careful not to misplace anything I successfully replaced a completely shattered screen on my phone. I have just ordered the speaker assembly and an iFix tool kit so I can fix my wife's iPhone as well. This may be a hobby I can get into and who knows, I may just be able to start a small business fixing electronics in a few years. Thanks iFix for not only supplying the parts I needed but all of these invaluable guides as well!

Chris Benamati - Reply

$40 down the drain. I snapped one of the LCD connecting cables that seemed far too short. It was standing straight up instead of bending over. I'm putting the phone back together with the old one, getting my stuff off, and considering it a $40 lesson. I have done a lot of these, but something seemed really wrong with the cable compared to the broken LCD I removed. Also a waste of several hours now.

conclusionsyllogism - Reply

Well the new screen works great, but the lock button now doesn't work. Does anyone have any idea what may have caused this or how I could put it right?

Simon Davies - Reply

Excelent guide. Thank you for the detailed step by step guidance, specially the tips on hidden things, falling things or traps. Amazing. I couldn't believe it worked back again at the end. :-)

Marcus Klein - Reply

Fantastic Guide Guys! My parts came from the Aussie MacFixIt shop and were all good, and probably genuine. I had many faults to solve: Screen delamination in the bottom left corner, earpiece and main speaker distortion, home and power button intermittent, no phone mic at all, dock connector dodgy and the battery would die in a few seconds from 49%. Where I've got some value to add in the relevant sections, I will.

Michael Scollay - Reply

1) I made my own magnetic mat by printing out an iPhone 4s screw chart, putting it on a metal cookie sheet, and putting strong magnets (I used little round "Mighties") in each spot for a screw. As I went through the process, I wrote the step number from the iFixit guide on my screw chart.

2) For my workspace, I placed everything on a white dish towel, so I could easily find dropped screws.

3) Tool-wise....I also kept a magnifying glass handy, wore latex gloves, used Q-tips and rubbing alcohol to degrease parts when needed, used a pointy tweezer, and a *magnetic* screwdriver.

kagunderman - Reply

just received iphone 4s display assembly repair kit form ifixit...

can't wait to replace mine, a little bit nervous actually...

Ezwan - Reply

What does it mean I did wrong if the new screen is really bright all the time, especially near the middle.

Richard Thomas - Reply


The WI-FI was not working anymore after reparation, but it is a known problem. 30 minutes into the freezer and WI-FI was back.

anne guillaume - Reply

Excellent easy to follow guide.

Thank you so much.

Gerrie Wattie - Reply

I followed this guide to a T and now I am unable to charge my phone unless it is turned on. If the phone is off and you go to plug it in the charger, it goes straight to apple icon and turns the phone on. What did I do wrong? What can be done to fix this?

Nancy - Reply

This guide is brilliant. Take time, don't force anything, identify the parts and have a magnifying glass and tweezers handy. Worked like a dream and easier to put together than you might think. Thank you!

Anthony Williams - Reply

After reading through these instructions and comments I now feel able to attempt the job at hand Just need to find right part for replacement will post how I get on ..

comcob - Reply

Step 32 killed me, ripped the ribbon for the top micorphone ribbon. The the digitizing ribbon tore on step 40. Ruined phone. Was way better off with a cracked screen.

keithogren - Reply

I have just finished replacing my screen and now i have black grey and white lines everywhere! It wont turn on except to do that and then it turns off after a short while.... What have I broken? Please help me!

Henry Howeson - Reply

한국어는 아직 서비스가 되고있지않아요.

재능기부 형식으로 번역중인데, 가입해서 한국어로 번역좀 해주세요.

단, 구글번역은 좀... ㅋ

morakko - Reply

Hi all.

I have the same "blink" issue as stated above. Same sound as when you plug it in the charger or to the computer, but screen remains dark.

I took it apart again and re-assembled but this does not help....

Any hints on how to solve this?



Philipp Wechner - Reply

This guide is awesome all others only givevery little info and videos are hard to keep up with . This guide is very easy and step by step instructions are " AWESOME! "


Dolores Williams - Reply

Gosto muito desse site e seus tutorial, estão de parabéns muito brigado.

David Santos - Reply

Just finished my wife's phone and as far I have been able to tell, everything is working properly. A few comments:

1. As others have said, the keys to success are Patience, Care, Organization, No Brute Force.

2. Unless you do this for a living, or say once each day on average, it is going to take you the better part of 3+ hours to do it properly. And if you don't do it properly, there's really no sense in doing it at all.

3. If something doesn't seem right, in particular during the reassembly, BE PATIENT. Never use brute force! Review the text and the photos. Zoom in on the photos -- they give remarkable detail.

4. I would note that in step 14, the cable cover has a claw on it that makes it far more difficult to remove than it would seem. The claw is on the lower corner of the far right end. You just need to carefully wiggle it back and forth to get it to release its hold down below. Again, do not brute force it!

dpbrick - Reply

Two other notes:

1. The relative sizes stated for some of the screws are incorrect. Pay particular attention when removing several screws during one step that you know which came from which hole. Or just be careful during reassembly, using very light torque, that each screw is threading in properly.

2. There are ample opportunities for "gotchas" in this procedure. The instructions are excellent overall, but you kind of need to have a feel for how much force, for example, it takes to reattach the many cable connectors. If light force doesn't seem to be doing it, check and recheck the alignment of the pins. I reiterate that brute force will leave you with a very expensive paperweight.

3. If I had realized beforehand that this procedure would mean a nearly complete disassembly of the phone, I might have hired someone else to do it. But as iFixit says on the box: "You got this!" (sic) You can do it if you work very carefully. If you get frustrated, take a break.

dpbrick - Reply

I finished the repair, and the screen turned on, but the touch screen will not work. Please Help!

TheAdvancedNoob - Reply

Help! I ripped the dock connector cable! What do I do?

Ivan Yu - Reply

I ripped the dock connector cable while peeling it off (step 10) Help!

Ivan Yu - Reply

You can find a replacement dock connector here and a guide for the replacement procedure here. Be careful, and good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

At some point towards the end of the disassembly, possibly when removing the dock connector (it was a display and dock repair), out popped a tiny black rubber rectangle. It's 2mm long x1.5 mm wide x 1mm thick with adhesive on one side. I can't find any mention of it anywhere. I doubt it's important, but I hate extra pieces :/

Mahir Abrahim - Reply

it is just a little bumper that goes against the speaker

Joseph Gans -

Great guide. I have no expertise and this took me much less than an hour

Joseph Gans -

Best in class

swaim3 - Reply

Exellent guide,thanks again.

Davide Lambertini - Reply

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