Introduction

There are many benefits to adding a second hard drive to your iMac such as improved speeds, greater storage space, and less heartache when installing new software. Use this guide to install one using our optical bay hard drive enclosure.

Image 1/1: This screw is captive in the access door.
  • Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.

  • This screw is captive in the access door.

  • Remove the access door from your iMac.

PH2 head necessary to remove screw.

airshack - Reply

  • The glass panel is fixed onto the front bezel with fourteen magnets around its perimeter.

  • Stick two suction cups to opposing corners of the glass panel.

  • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

  • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent such as Windex.

Save $15 dollars and use a plunger. Works perfectly.

Michael Ybarra - Reply

Even better and more elegant: go to a household shop and buy two transparent plastic bathroom baskets with two suction cups each. I found them in Xenos in the Netherlands (maybe also in Germany).

freed - Reply

Perhaps not so elegant but equally effective without any adverse effects to either... try a vacuum cleaner.

Andrew Dobson - Reply

Image 1/1: The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter. To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.
  • Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.

  • The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter. To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.

  • Be meticulous about cleaning the LCD and the inside face of the glass panel before reinstallation, as any fingerprints or dust trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the display is on.

The glass panel is somewhat thin and should come away quite easily without much force so be gentle.

adamngordon - Reply

Just an FYI - my glass panel did not line up perfectly when reinstalled. Off by just 1mm. May take another attempt at it later, but does not interfere with the iSight camera. Only someone with an eagle-eye (like me) will notice it's not perfect.

ajpfl - Reply

To reinstall the glass, I lined up the bottom edge first, then pivoted the top in. The magnets pulled it quickly into place.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

I didn't want to use such small suction cups.. so I got suction bathroom handles from Home Depot. Very sturdy and to me, safer choice.

Gail - Reply

Image 1/1: Eight 13 mm T8 Torx screws
  • Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:

    • Eight 13 mm T8 Torx screws

      • Alternatively, you might have six 13 mm and two 25 mm T8 Torx screws

    • Four 25 mm T8 Torx screws

      • Alternatively, you might have two 25 mm (outer) and two 35 mm (inner) T8 Torx screws

I only had two 25 mm T8 Torx on my model. (The two inner orange circles as shown in the diagram.)

stevejansen - Reply

I don't know if this is different but i am in the process of disassembling a 24' imac emc: 2134. i have only: (2) 25 mm T8 screws the inner two on the bottom of the screen. I have (4) 13 mm t8 screws the outer most holes on the bottom and the 2 holes on the right side of the monitor above the drive entrance and the remaining holes are (6) 11 mm t8 screws

ccarter314 - Reply

I have the same screws as ccarter on a 2211 except on the bottom row there are only 4 screws total, the longer ones go in the middle two.

maccentric -

The Torx set I bought from ifixIt is well worth the money. My screw heads in this step were T9 not T8. THe T8 bit was too sloppy in the screwhead and there was a risk of rounding the slots. Having the option to go a size-up was perfect.

Troy - Reply

My 2211 has a different screw configuration.

2 - 32mm long screws towards the middle of the bottom edge

4 - 18mm long screws (2 at the corners of the bottom edge and 2 along the right edge)

6 - 13mm screws along top and left edges

christian - Reply

I have the same screws as Christian. The key is to make sure all screws are flush to the surface, so that the glass can be held up by the magnets.

Kelvin Lau - Reply

On mine, for the red circles, I had the six 13mm Torx plus two 25mm Torx. It's not indicated in the picture here, but the 25mm Torx went on either side of the optical drive.

JD Fox Micro - Reply

I marked next to each hole with a pencil "S, M or L" to indicate which length screw goes where. No guess work on reassembly.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

Image 1/2: Gently lift the front bezel from its top edge off the rear case. It helps to use your thumbs to push down very gently on the corners of the display. Image 2/2: Once the top edge of the front bezel has cleared the rear case, rotate the front bezel toward the stand and lift it off the rear case.
  • The front bezel is still attached to the iMac by the microphone cable.

  • Gently lift the front bezel from its top edge off the rear case. It helps to use your thumbs to push down very gently on the corners of the display.

  • Once the top edge of the front bezel has cleared the rear case, rotate the front bezel toward the stand and lift it off the rear case.

  • When reinstalling the front bezel, start at the lower edge and make sure it is flush with the rear case before lowering the top edge onto the iMac.

The microphone cable must be disconnected BEFORE rotating the bezel towards the stand.

Also, the bezel covers the sides of the case, not just the front. This isn't obvious from the pictures.

wallace - Reply

Looking at the meaning of the LEDS

i've got 3 LEDS on but i don't get a chime or the screen.

i am going to check the inverter voltages but can only find info for the 20" macs iMac Intel 20" EMC 2210 Power Supply Output Voltage Test

does anyone know where i can get info for the 24"

samraby - Reply

i have the same thing, 3 LEDs on but no chime and no screen.

what is the fix? and problem?

Bill -

I'm in the same position. 3 LED's, No chime, no life in the screen, Optical drive starts up but no other signs of life i.e.:fans also don't start up.....

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!!

Dominik - Reply

Image 1/1: For the front bezel to sit properly, be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.
  • Disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.

  • For the front bezel to sit properly, be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.

I didn't disconect the cable. I was working on a large table that allowed me to carefully flip the bezel upside down and rest it that way with the cable connected through the entire process.

fulker - Reply

I also skipped disconnecting the microphone cable. I have a large table and I stacked some books next to the iMac. There was plenty of cable for the bezel to fold nicely over the top of the iMac.

mikkorongas - Reply

I needed to move the bezel away, so disconnected the cable. On reassembly found that the pins had pulled out of the plastic housing. Need to know orientation of the 3 wires in the housing.

prreitz - Reply

I used the floor instead of a table and left the cable connected.

Frank Carrano - Reply

Image 1/2: If necessary, de-route the LCD temperature sensor cable from behind the logic board. Image 2/2: If necessary, de-route the LCD temperature sensor cable from behind the logic board.
  • Disconnect the LCD temperature sensor by pulling the connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • If necessary, de-route the LCD temperature sensor cable from behind the logic board.

The temp sensor on my EMC2134 is located underneath the LCD and the cable is not very long. I propped up the LCD to facilitate removal.

Pierre Scerri - Reply

I got an error for the LCD thermal sensor(4sns/1/40000000: TLOP-130.000), and now the fan runs full tilt all the time! I guess I may have damaged the cable...

morgandan - Reply

there are two connections together; picture does not make that clear or which one to remove.

jay - Reply

You have to be extremely careful when pulling out the LCD Temp connection as it doesn't want to come easy. I almost pulled the entire connection off the logic board using too much force. I therefore, used a pair of hemostats to grab the male end (the very top of the connector) and used a small screwdriver to hold the base of the connection in-place (female end attached to the logic board) in order to pull the connector apart.

tpolak - Reply

There apparently is a variant of the EMC2134, like Pierre Scerri said. It has its LCD temp sensor underneath the LCD; the thin wires are about 5 in / 13 cm long and taped to the back of the LCD, and only about 2 in free, so lift the LCD gently.

There is a connector on the place where the LCD temp connector is on the iFixit photo, but in this variant it is marked 'CPU FAN' and there is no reason to disconnect it.

The logic boards in my computer are black, not blue.

goosveen - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.

When they assembled my imac, they forgot to put the two torx screws in. Saved me about 10 seconds. The cable was quite secure and easily popped on and off.

ljheppner - Reply

I used surgical tweezers to put place these two tiny screws back in without dropping them into the computer.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

In my situation, the T6 (fixit's version) got the screw stripped. I'm eyeing the screws with suspicions. It's way too tight than necessary that I have difficulty to unscrew it. Will add comment if I ever get successful to get it out somehow.

xa0s - Reply

Okay. It was extremely difficult. I had to use precision screw (1.4 m/m). It worked on one of the screw. The other one... I was forced to use a hexagon bit at 1.5 size to a success with extreme precision and careful maneuver. I just hope nobody else experiences this as much as I have. Good luck.

xa0s - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Disconnect the display data cable connector from its socket on the logic board by pulling the attached plastic tab towards you and away from the iMac.

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Image 1/2: Remove the eight 12 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display panel to the rear case. Image 2/2: Lift the right side of the display panel a few inches up from the iMac.
  • Lay the iMac down on a table before you remove the LCD so that it doesn't fall.

  • Remove the eight 12 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display panel to the rear case.

  • Lift the right side of the display panel a few inches up from the iMac.

    • Do not lift the LCD all the way up; there are still connectors attaching the LCD to the internals.

In the photo it appears you're lifting it from its right edge. Sue

(sue.w.clark@gmail.com)

suewclark - Reply

When you fit the LCD back be aware that the microphone cable may be hidden between it and the case and make sure it's free. I had to back track a few stages when I couldn't find it.

suewclark - Reply

Image 1/2: The LCD cable is attached to the underside of the power supply; be careful where you put your fingers so you don't get zapped by a capacitor. Image 2/2: On reassembly, you may find it helpful to remove the power supply, reconnect the LCD power cable, and then reinstall the power supply.
  • With the LCD lifted, disconnect the LCD cable by pulling down.

  • The LCD cable is attached to the underside of the power supply; be careful where you put your fingers so you don't get zapped by a capacitor.

  • On reassembly, you may find it helpful to remove the power supply, reconnect the LCD power cable, and then reinstall the power supply.

    • Alternatively, the LCD power cable can be disconnected from the LCD, rather than the power supply.

I was unable to disconnect the LCD cable, possibly due to fear of breaking the connector. I was able to swap drives with it connected. The iMac was placed on its rear cover on a large table, leaving plenty of workspace to rotate the LCD panel to the left side while still connected. The screen will lay at an angle on the case edge. I verified the LCD cable was clear of the case endue and not pinched.

This also avoids going near high power capacitors with your fingers.

stevejansen - Reply

I found it easier to disconnect the LCD cable at the LCD end after lifting the black tape.

Pierre Scerri - Reply

Fully agree. Easiest is to remove cable from LCD in stead of trying to pull it off the board

Rik Veldhuizen -

Remove cable from the LCD Display not the board

Fully agree with others. It is easiest is to remove cable from LCD display instead of trying to pull it off the board. It comes off the board very easily, but it is difficult to put it back onto the board. It is easier to snap the cable bad onto the LCD Display itself.

ToddR -

I could not get the LCD power cable disconnected from the board - it is on really hard and there is no way to leverage it off without breaking something. My solution was to leave the screen attached and rotate it away from the work area/computer (granted you need a work surface that is large enough and a soft surface to place the screen on). If you try this method, be careful that you keep clear of the screen during the remaining steps - should not be hard.

It seemed that if I ever got the connection unplugged, there would be no way to get it back under and re-attached properly.

This is probably the toughest step of the entire process that needs a workaround.

ljheppner - Reply

On re-assembly, Have something ready to rig the display! reconnecting the lcd cable is the most difficult step in the whole procedure

bootsch - Reply

I agree with the previous poster, this is indeed the most challenging part. I ended up removing the screws for the IC board that this connector connects to. This allowed me to pull the board up an extra inch and plug in properly. 4 screws, 120 seconds, done.

orders651 - Reply

As said previously, reconnecting the data cable is really difficult and I managed to bend a pin. Thanks to good support from ifixit staff I managed to bend it back - not sure how as it's so small. Unscrewing the IC board is a good idea. If I ever had to do this again I would avoid disconnecting this cable and just move it out of the way, or disconnect it at the other end as previously suggested.

suewclark - Reply

LIke others mentioned, this was the most difficult step because of the awkward angle. Working alone I managed to get it off but found it much harder to line it up properly for reattachment. What I ended up doing was getting someone to hold the the LCD (resting on the left side, perpendicular to the iMac which was laying down) and I removed the 4 screws that hold the power supply in place. Removing those screws allowed me to lift the power supply a couple inches which made it so much easier to reattach. I wish I had done that when I was trying to remove the cable during disassembly. Good luck!

alexflood - Reply

This was near impossible to remove as there is no room to grip the connector and no easy way to wedge something in there to help remove it. I felt like giving up but the hard drive removal and swap was so easy you just need to get someone to hold the screen for 10 minutes. Don't try removing the cable ... you most likely will get frustrated unnecessarily.

Troy - Reply

I did not disconnect the LCD power cable as others recommended. I simply rotated the LCD to the side, rested on table. This worked really well for me and did not have to be concerned about reattaching this complex connector.

ajpfl - Reply

I agree with others. Just lift display and lean against a prop, perpendicular to table. No need to disconnect, which is error prone.

dkulp - Reply

Les commentaires sont tous en anglais à cette étape, et j'aurai dû faire l'effort de les lire avant de perdre 1h à cause de ce connecteur. Effectivement, il n'est pas nécessaire de débrancher le connecteur de l'écran, car c'est une vrai galère à remettre sans risque de le casser. On peut donc laisser l'écran branché, à la verticale, soigneusement incliné sur un mur, l'imac toujours posé sur le bureau. J'espère que ce message sera utile, car j'aurai bien aimé qu'on me le dise avant !

Nicolecameleon - Reply

+1 for removing the LCD cable from the screen side, not the mac side.

Not removing it, depending on the lenght of the cable which doesn't seem to be fixed, might not be an option for everybody.

Michael Sacchi - Reply

Remove cable from the LCD Display not the board

Fully agree with others. It is easiest is to remove cable from LCD display instead of trying to pull it off the board. It comes off the board very easily, but it is difficult to put it back onto the board. It is easier to snap the cable bad onto the LCD Display itself.

ToddR - Reply

This is really a good way to break the cable! Avoid the stress easily by removing the four screws (T-9) holding the video board down, then lift the edge near the cable before removing. Also, the cable is easily reattached to the board with these four screws removed. Reattaching without doing so is time consuming and quite difficult. This approach is easier than removing the cable from the LCD.

airshack - Reply

Reconnecting the LCD Connector was the only challenging part of this procedure. I must have bent the pins on the LCD connector when taking it off so was unable to reattach. I ended up taking off a bracket that was adjacent to the LCD connector as well as the other end of the cable....O I disconnected these 2 pieces and was able to examine the other end of the LCD connector I was able to bend the pins back into place and the connector snapped back into place. The display works and the hard drive works as well. Thanks iFixIt!

csimmons20 - Reply

I wish I had read your comments about not disconnecting the LCD. It was really hard disconnecting and connecting it back was !@#$. I managed to twist some of the pins so in the end I had to unscrew the board, twist the pins back and plug the cable. When I restarted, I really thought that it was never going to work. So a down point for not pointing to comments at step #11. Otherwise great tutorial.

Alain Bartolo - Reply

Too difficult to re-connect afterwards. Accidentally, one pin was bended when re-plugged. I ended up unscrewed the power board, and fixed the pin. Re-connect and OK.

Nick Lam - Reply

I found a far easier way. Just gently turn the screen 90° to one side and don't disconnect the cable! If all you are doing is replacing the HD, there's plenty of room without disconnecting the cable. At least on my machine the cable is flexible and I didn't have any problem making room. Way, way easier.

baslking - Reply

Thanks for the suggestion to remove the IC board. This was indeed the easiest for me, after spending 15 minutes trying to reconnect the cable.

Sccoaire - Reply

I didn't disconnect the LCD cable. I stacked some books on the side and put a blanket on them. I was then able to fold the screen next to the computer LCD still connected. Should some iMacs have a shorter cable this may not be an option to everyone. Thanks for good tips everyone.

mikkorongas - Reply

I also did not remove LCD cable. Just rotated the LCD away and propped it by the edges with the plastic inserts from the box my new drive came in. Plenty of room to get to the HDD.

EBS - Reply

No need to remove the LCD panel.

I agree this is the toughest step in the process — and the most unnecessary. I was able to rotate the panel out of the way without disconnecting it, placing a cloth between the chassis and the panel now leaning against it to prevent any inadvertent damage.

Tim Murtaugh - Reply

As others have stated, disconnecting the inverter cable from the power supply first is NOT the way to go. I ended up damaging the cable trying to get it out before I went to disconnect it from the LCD panel end instead. Much easier to do and much less prone to damaging the cable or it's insertion socket.

The guide needs to be updated and the suggestion to pull the inverter cable downward from the power supply removed. It is not a good idea and will cost you at least a few days and $10 to replace the cable should something go wrong. Please update this guide.

multimediavt - Reply

Get the male part out of the female fitting is a standard problem with boards. There are pulling/clamping devices you can get at electronics stores to pull the fitting out. They are like fuse pullers many car fuse boxes are equipped with. IFixit should sell them with the kit. I did it all without any problems, formatted the drive and then installed the operating system and defeated Apple who wouldn't even consider replacing the drive in my "obsolete" machine which my wife now uses instead of a crappy Dell PC.

peterhaggstrom - Reply

Image 1/2: Remove the LCD. Image 2/2: Remove the LCD.
  • Continue to lift the LCD from the right side.

  • Remove the LCD.

Much simpler to remove the LCD cable at the LCD insertion site, rather than trying to remove it as suggested in the manual. Reinsertion is also less traumatic.

Eric Shaffmaster - Reply

Image 1/1: Disconnect the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the logic board by pulling its connector toward the top of your iMac.
  • If necessary, remove the pieces of tape securing the hard drive/optical drive thermal sensor cables to your iMac.

  • Disconnect the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the logic board by pulling its connector toward the top of your iMac.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two fine-thread 7 mm T10 Torx screws securing the optical drive to the rear case.

Mine were T8 Torx

Frank Carrano - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the two 3.5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the optical drive connector to the optical drive.
  • Lift the free end of the optical drive slightly out of the rear case.

  • Remove the two 3.5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the optical drive connector to the optical drive.

My EMC 2134 had no torx screws on the ODD. The SATA connector plugs straight into the ODD.

Pierre Scerri - Reply

Image 1/2: Twist the spudger to separate the connector from the optical drive. Image 2/2: It may be necessary to work from alternating sides of the connector until it is disconnected.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the optical drive connector and the body of the optical drive.

  • Twist the spudger to separate the connector from the optical drive.

  • It may be necessary to work from alternating sides of the connector until it is disconnected.

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Image 1/1: The optical drive thermal sensor is still attached to the underside of the optical drive.
  • Lift the optical drive out of the rear case and pull it away from the side of the rear case to release the strip of EMI tape attached to its surface.

  • The optical drive thermal sensor is still attached to the underside of the optical drive.

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Image 1/2: To remove the optical drive thermal sensor, use the tip of a spudger to lift the center finger of the thermal sensor bracket while applying slight tension to the thermal sensor cable. Image 2/2: If your thermal sensor is stuck to the optical drive, skip to the next step.
  • If necessary, remove the piece of foam tape covering the optical drive thermal sensor.

  • To remove the optical drive thermal sensor, use the tip of a spudger to lift the center finger of the thermal sensor bracket while applying slight tension to the thermal sensor cable.

  • If your thermal sensor is stuck to the optical drive, skip to the next step.

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Image 1/1: If the adhesive gets dirty or will not stick to your new optical drive, place some double-sided tape under the two semicircular ears of the thermal sensor bracket.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive thermal sensor bracket up off the adhesive securing it to the optical drive.

  • If the adhesive gets dirty or will not stick to your new optical drive, place some double-sided tape under the two semicircular ears of the thermal sensor bracket.

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Image 1/1: Don't forget to transfer this to your new optical drive.
  • Use a spudger to remove the small piece of EMI foam from the bottom of the optical drive.

  • Don't forget to transfer this to your new optical drive.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the two 6.5 mm T10 Torx screws from both sides of the optical drive (four screws total).

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Image 1/1: Don't forget to transfer this to your new optical drive.
  • Peel the strip of EMI tape off the optical drive.

  • Don't forget to transfer this to your new optical drive.

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Image 1/2: Pull the optical drive bracket away from the open end of the optical drive, minding any tabs that may get caught. Image 2/2: If you have a disk or anything else stuck inside your optical drive, we have a [guide|772|guide]  to fix it.
  • Slightly rotate the optical drive bracket away from the optical drive.

  • Pull the optical drive bracket away from the open end of the optical drive, minding any tabs that may get caught.

  • If you have a disk or anything else stuck inside your optical drive, we have a guide to fix it.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the three 3.0 mm Phillips #0 screws from the optical bay enclosure.

Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

Roman Quenin - Reply

plug in the back of the ssd

Roman Quenin -

I'm trying to find out as well. I read elsewhere you need something like this without the bracket: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

However I have NOT confirmed this.

Allen Borza -

If I understand you correctly; the enclosure allows you to use the existing iMac optical cable. Also the enclosure allows for a safe fitting of the optical drive. In my newer machine I had to double side tape the SSD to the back of the iMac and buy a special cable. Note: this was not an optical drive replacement scenario or I would have done exactly as this tutorial suggests.

EkDor - Reply

Image 1/3: Continue to pull open the two halves of the enclosure until they separate. Image 2/3: Continue to pull open the two halves of the enclosure until they separate. Image 3/3: Continue to pull open the two halves of the enclosure until they separate.
  • Starting from the left edge, gently pull open the optical bay enclosure.

  • Continue to pull open the two halves of the enclosure until they separate.

This is the 12.7mm caddy.. but, the caddy 9.5 mm fit fine as well? or it doesn't fit on imac mid 2010

Cristian Pizarro - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 3.0 mm Phillips #0 screws securing the faceplate to the optical bay enclosure.

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Image 1/3: You will no longer need the faceplate or the two Phillips screws that held it in place. Set those parts aside if you ever wish to put the faceplate back into the enclosure. Image 2/3: Reassemble the optical bay enclosure without the faceplate, reusing the original three 3.0 mm Phillips screws to keep it intact. Image 3/3: Reassemble the optical bay enclosure without the faceplate, reusing the original three 3.0 mm Phillips screws to keep it intact.
  • Lift the black plastic faceplate out of the optical bay enclosure.

    • You will no longer need the faceplate or the two Phillips screws that held it in place. Set those parts aside if you ever wish to put the faceplate back into the enclosure.

  • Reassemble the optical bay enclosure without the faceplate, reusing the original three 3.0 mm Phillips screws to keep it intact.

Just curious, why is it necessary to remove this black plastic faceplate from the enclosure? It doesn't appear to serve any function in or out of the enclosure.

Nic Johnson - Reply

Maybe because it would interfere with the bracket you have to put back on in step 21?

Jeff Dickson -

So I'm confused about the Optical Drive Bracket, the one that originally held the DVD-CD drive. I had an awful time remounting the kit into that bracket as the screws didn't line up correctly. I finally got everything to fit, less one of the four holding screws. Did anyone else experience this problem? I would have expected a much better alignment for this assembly considering the quality of the iFixIt site.

For the record, the upgrade went fine with a SanDisk Extreme II 480GB SSD, but that one step was next to impossible, and not covered in any detail by the instructions.

Ron Lockhart - Reply

Yep, I had exactly the same problem. The alignment was way off.

olafgoy -

My kit also did not line up correctly. I had to put all four screws in at an angle cross-threaded to mount the unit.

Kevo -

Same here. managed to get two screws in at a decent angle on one side and couldn't get the others in. Felt solid enough once I'd screwed the original ODD casing back onto the iMac.

Monkeyrebirth -

I had the same alignment problem, too. I ended up removing the rubber grommets from the plastic enclosure, widening the holes with a small file, then replacing the grommets. All four screws went in, but not in perfect alignment. Should be ok, though.

nickmalmquist -

Another possibility is the part has been designed to be used with different types of iMac and some utilise this component. In this case it apparently doesn't.

EkDor - Reply

I bought a different enclosure than the one recommended ($18 instead of $39) and it came with new screws because the old screws were too big to fit in the holes for the new enclosure.

Keith Mewis - Reply

Hi. Which enclosure did you buy? link please.

Alex -

Where did you get the alternative enclosure from?

Walter Poole -

I completed this guide last night on my iMac and it all worked great until I got to step 26 and none of the holes on the 12.7 mm PATA Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure lined up with the black plastic faceplate. Just like what is being commented on by previous fixers, I could only get 2 screws on one side of the enclosure in, but they were crooked and unable to screw in all the way. It was crude, but it worked.

The rest of this guide works flawlessly. This is a great site!

Marc - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the plastic positioner from the optical bay hard drive enclosure by pressing in on one of the clips on either side and lifting it up and out of the enclosure.

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Image 1/3: Gently place the hard drive into the enclosure's hard drive slot. Image 2/3: While firmly holding the enclosure in place with one hand, use your other hand to press the hard drive into the enclosure connectors. Image 3/3: While firmly holding the enclosure in place with one hand, use your other hand to press the hard drive into the enclosure connectors.
  • Make sure that the hard drive connectors are facing down before placing it into the enclosure.

  • Gently place the hard drive into the enclosure's hard drive slot.

  • While firmly holding the enclosure in place with one hand, use your other hand to press the hard drive into the enclosure connectors.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Reconnect any cables you have removed from the original optical drive onto the optical bay enclosure. Image 2/2: Reconnect any cables you have removed from the original optical drive onto the optical bay enclosure.
  • Once the hard drive is snug, reinsert the plastic positioner while holding the hard drive against the bottom of the enclosure.

  • Reconnect any cables you have removed from the original optical drive onto the optical bay enclosure.

Why no mention of attaching the new hard drive to the Optical Drive Enclosure using the enclosed phillips screws?

Once you have securely inserted the new hard drive into the Optical Drive Enclosure and replaced the plastic positioner you should attach the drive to the enclosure using two of the provided phillips screws. Two holes on the underside of the enclosure should align with two attachment holes on the underside of the drive.

nickmalmquist - Reply

Do you need a sata cable to connect the new drive to the board or does it connect via the optical drive cable that we disconnected earlier?

Erik Sawaya - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

35 other people completed this guide.

Brittany McCrigler

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4 Comments

These iMacs use ATA DVD drives. Using the SATA drive enclosure linked above is guaranteed to fail. :-(

Jack Knife - Reply

My EMC 2134 has a SATAII optical drive.

Pierre Scerri - Reply

I apologize for the reply after over a year.

No iMac 24 "both 2007 and 2008 can accommodate a SATA Superdrive. This is certain.

It is clear that this installation is made to the adapter referred to as "Related Products": 12.7 mm PATA Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure.

So any HDD or SSD you enter this run at high speed to 100 MB / sec of UltraATA100.

Henry -

Do I assume correctly that this iMac model doesn't have two SATA ports on the logic board, so a dual 2.5" SSD/HDD drive could be installed in the 3.5" bay with an adapter/bracket? This way one could save the optical drive... Anyone?

fallenartist - Reply

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