Introduction

There are many benefits to adding a second drive (either HDD or SSD) to your laptop, such as improved speeds, greater storage space, and less heartache when installing new software. Use this guide to install one using our optical bay hard drive enclosure.

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/

mysterioes - Reply

Same issue with me. After reassembling my 13-inch and my 17-inch, one of the screws are sticking out ever so slightly. Very annoying, especially since I scratch whatever surface I'm on now.

Kyle Spadaro -

Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.

The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.

I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.

- carefully undo all connections and 2 screws

- remove the assembly and flip it over

- again carefully remove the shielding tape

- undo 3 tiny screws

- gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)

- reverse process with replacement card.

image can be found here:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2446...

Remon - Reply

It helps if you mark the holes where the long screws go so you can easily find them when the time comes to button things up. Also, a little dish or custard cup to hold those tiny screws is essential.

Human - Reply

3 x 13.5 mm screws are actually TWO different types! Return to EXACT SAME HOLES.

-I discovered this on my mid-2010, but from comments, sounds like it may affect other models as well

2 x 13.5 mm screws are pointed ends

1 x 13.5 mm screw is a FLAT end <- CORNER HOLE

These areTWO slightly different lengths, and must return to correct holes. If you put the flat end screw in the wrong hole, it will stick out slightly. If you put either of the pointed screws in the wrong hole, they will go in all the way, but will not catch threads, and will simply fall out when laptop is flipped back over.

scottbernardis - Reply

I printed out the image above and taped each screw to the photo as I removed each one, just to make sure I put them in the right location.

Grace Morris - Reply

This is a brilliant suggestion! I did this for all the steps that involved removing screws, numbered the sheets, and that made it very easy to put it all back together in reverse. Thanks!

Steve Adamczyk -

Wedge your fingers between the lower case and the vent, and lift upward to release the clips holding the lower case to the upper case. Remove the lower case.
  • Wedge your fingers between the lower case and the vent, and lift upward to release the clips holding the lower case to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case.

I recommend using anti-static protection, i.e., wearing a ground strap, or at least touch metal chassis inside the computer before unplugging cables. Otherwise, you might create an ESD discharge into your RAM and have to replace it like I did!

d68ef792 - Reply

Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits. If present, grab the plastic tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the device.  For Late-2011 models the battery connector will not have a tab and is simply a plug that inserts straight down into the motherboard--to remove pry the plug straight up. If the plastic tab is missing, use a spudger to pry the connector up from its socket.
  • Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits.

  • If present, grab the plastic tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the device. For Late-2011 models the battery connector will not have a tab and is simply a plug that inserts straight down into the motherboard--to remove pry the plug straight up.

  • If the plastic tab is missing, use a spudger to pry the connector up from its socket.

  • Pull the tab parallel to the face of the logic board.

This step is a little difficult in reverse, that is, when re-attaching the battery. It helps to tilt the laptop up so you can see the edge of the board that accepts the plug. It may look like there are two slots for it, it goes in the bigger slot that is further away from the board.

yary hluchan - Reply

Is this step really necessary? It is not part of the instructions how to replace the HDD in Apple's User Manual of the 2011 17" MBP.

Tobias Hahn - Reply

As it says in the step: "Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits." It is not required, but it is simple insurance to avoid a $1000+ repair should you accidentally short components on the board with something metal.

Andrew Bookholt -

There was no tab on my model. Battery is affixed to board and screws must be removed.

bhodges2 - Reply

Mine also, and looks as if removing connector could damage motherboard.

Stephen -

* There is no tab on the A1297 (late 2011) model's battery connector. Be careful with the connector, it chips off the edges easily! Otherwise the same as bhodges2 & Stephen's notes.

** (Pleas also include the exact Model and Part numbers like P/N: MD311D/A; Mod.: A1297 in the comments and notes for your MBP)

Pinguman - Reply

Why are there no guides for the Late 2011 17" MacBook Pro A1297 (2.4GHz i7 quad core, MD311LL/A)??? I just replaced the RAM in mine and discovered that not only is there no tab on the battery connector, but the connector pulls straight up, perpendicular to the logic board, rather than parallel. I almost ripped the wires out of the connector by trying to pull it out parallel to the logic board like this guide instructed! After finally getting it out, my advice to those with the Late 2011 model is to use a spudger to loosen the edges of the connector then lift the connector straight up to get it out safely.

Dave - Reply

I replaced the display on my late 2011 model and noticed that it was quite different than the tutorial given here so I detailed all the differences to help others with late-2011 models on my blog: http://johnfixesstuff.blogspot.com/2014/...

jmueller -

Before disconnecting the camera cable, a small plastic retainer stuck to the logic board must first be moved out of the way.
  • Before disconnecting the camera cable, a small plastic retainer stuck to the logic board must first be moved out of the way.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the small plastic cable retainer away from the camera cable socket for enough clearance to remove the camera cable.

Add Comment

Pull the camera cable toward the optical drive opening to disconnect it from the logic board.
  • Pull the camera cable toward the optical drive opening to disconnect it from the logic board.

  • The camera cable socket is very fragile. Do not apply any upward force to this socket, as it may break off the logic board. Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  • For Late 2011 models, the camera connector plugs straight down into the motherboard—to remove this connector, gently lift it straight up.

My A1297 looks very different from this picture. The camera cable is not affixed with any plastic piece, it was a small blade connector that was at the top left corner of the mobo. It is removed by pulling it horizontally from the socket. It is my least favorite type of cable connection and the one most likely to be bent in the process (or the socket, be careful).

maccentric - Reply

My mid2010 1297 was also different. Camera cable is per "step 7" here (http://www.shareyourrepair.com/2014/11/h...). Very very delicate.

scottbernardis - Reply

Carefully pull the Bluetooth cable toward the fans to disconnect it from the Bluetooth board.
  • Carefully pull the Bluetooth cable toward the fans to disconnect it from the Bluetooth board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the optical drive.

Once again, this step, and the rest that follow regarding the bluetooth board, bears no resemblance to my A1297. Luckily, it looks like things have been made simpler. Remove the camera cable from it's socket, the bluetooth cable (flat, black, just shy of .5" wide), and the DVD cable from their sockets. Remove the screw from the top right side of the black plastic piece that holds the bluetooth board and all the skinny black cables. Remove the screw at the top of this piece that fastens to the hinge (look for the shiny metal). Then just lift that piece out of the way, remove the 3 screws holding the DVD in place, and you can pull the drive out (I just grab it by the orange cable and pull it out, but that's probably not the preferred method).

maccentric - Reply

Again, also mid 2010 A1297, the large flat cable crosses the drive. Remove on logic board end by prying carefully "UP" away from the board. Step 8 here: (http://www.shareyourrepair.com/2014/11/h...)

scottbernardis - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the thin plastic cover off the top and sides of the Bluetooth board housing.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the thin plastic cover off the top and sides of the Bluetooth board housing.

Is there any real need to remove these cables from the Bluetooth Board? Are you not able to simply conduct step 14 here instead, leaving cables in place, therefor not jeopardising integrity of the housing?

Does the indicated Dual HDD housing replicate the holes found on the Optical Drive to allow this?

Fletch Christian - Reply

mid 2010 A1297 again. Different configuration. I had a black plastic housing along this whole side. The large flat ribbon connects to it and I LEFT THE RIBBON IN PLACE on this housing. I removed 3 screws here to allow this black housing to be lifted off the drive and to the side, along with the camera line (held down by 3rd screw). When REPLACING this black housing after installation is complete, note there is a small tab on the disc slot side of the housing that needs to be inserted into a slot for correct placement. Then SKIP TO STEP 10 on this IFIXIT tutorial.

scottbernardis - Reply

Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Bluetooth antenna connector up and off its socket on the Bluetooth board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Bluetooth antenna connector up and off its socket on the Bluetooth board.

Add Comment

If present, remove the small piece of EMI foam near the Bluetooth board. De-route the camera cable from the slot molded into the Bluetooth board housing.
  • If present, remove the small piece of EMI foam near the Bluetooth board.

  • De-route the camera cable from the slot molded into the Bluetooth board housing.

Add Comment

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Add Comment

Remove the three 3.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.
  • Remove the three 3.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.

  • To remove the screw closest to the battery, it may be helpful to use a T6 Torx screwdriver to first remove the upper case bracket directly above it.

Add Comment

Remove the optical drive from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.
  • Remove the optical drive from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

Add Comment

Grab the optical drive cable by its connector and pull it away from the body of the hard drive. Pulling on anything but the connector may damage the optical drive cable. Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.
  • Grab the optical drive cable by its connector and pull it away from the body of the hard drive.

  • Pulling on anything but the connector may damage the optical drive cable.

  • Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.

Add Comment

Remove the two 2.2 mm Phillips screws securing the Bluetooth board to the side of the optical drive.
  • Remove the two 2.2 mm Phillips screws securing the Bluetooth board to the side of the optical drive.

mid 2010 A1297. This is NOT HERE. Skip Step 14-15.

Step 16 ((NEW)) (unless I am crazy, this was not detailed). After removing original drive, remove bracket (2 screws) from its side, and reuse on new drive. If you are confused which bracket, the drive is held in place with 3 screws. The 3rd screw on the center of the logic board side, goes through this bracket that you need to reuse. Top view of bracket can also be seen in Step 11 picture.

scottbernardis - Reply

Remove the Bluetooth board from the optical drive.
  • Remove the Bluetooth board from the optical drive.

  • Optical drive remains.

what happens to the bluetooth board once you've removed it?

Jayke Wright - Reply

install it on the new drive

scottbernardis -

Remove the plastic spacer from the optical bay hard drive enclosure by pressing in on one of the clips on either side and lifting it up and out of the enclosure. Remove the plastic spacer from the optical bay hard drive enclosure by pressing in on one of the clips on either side and lifting it up and out of the enclosure.
  • Remove the plastic spacer from the optical bay hard drive enclosure by pressing in on one of the clips on either side and lifting it up and out of the enclosure.

The bay and dvd drive cable at iFixit is $40.00 (Unibody Laptop Dual Drive)

But for $10 more you can get an external casing that will protect your super drive form MCE (http://store.mcetech.com/Merchant2/merch...) A total of $50 dollars. It is what I used and works great and looks pretty and is guaranteed to protect your superdrive. MCE also gives you a disk with software to patch the DVD Player to work with external dvd drives. So For an extra $10 dollars you get better software functionality and a case for your super drive. It works great.

Robert Wacker - Reply

Robert, do you by chance also know where to buy an external drive case to make the old hard disk an external portable hard disk ?

Nina Nokia -

Make sure that the hard drive connectors are facing down before placing it into the enclosure. Gently place the hard drive into the enclosure's hard drive slot. While firmly holding the enclosure in place with one hand, use your other hand to press the hard drive into the enclosure connectors.
  • Make sure that the hard drive connectors are facing down before placing it into the enclosure.

  • Gently place the hard drive into the enclosure's hard drive slot.

  • While firmly holding the enclosure in place with one hand, use your other hand to press the hard drive into the enclosure connectors.

It is not a good idea to put fast SSDs into the optibay. System tries to negotiate at 6 Gbit, but it fails; disk is recognized but it couldn't even be formatted. I've waisted a lot of time to find a reason. After swapping SSD with original mac's HD both work properly, one at 6, another at 3 Gbit

nicholas - Reply

Good to know, thanks!

zondervon -

No problems here with a Samsung EVO in the optical bay. Only downside that is not really fast (80-90 mb/s) but amazing performances on booting time, shut off and opening programs.

Mike - Reply

I have to withdraw my comment. It is NOT a good idea to put a SATAIII SSD in the optical bay. It gives random freezes. Swapping it with a HD is indeed better. Better read/writes too. Only downside is that SMS won't work on the optical bay so treat your baby with care. Also Sleep issues might occur when placing a HD in the optical bay (a total freezing system). I already wasted a HD that was in the optical bay.

Mike - Reply

I've replaced the optibay with a samsung 840 pro but can't format it nor copy files (a few files work) to it. Do you suggest putting the HDD in the optibay instead? Did you clone the HDD to the SSD before swapping them? Will my Mac boot from the HDD the first time I boot even though it's in the optibay? I would really appreciate an answer, I've spent too many hours trying to figure it out!

Carl - Reply

Also had this same problem. Tried and failed a Samsung firmware upgrade. Ended up send drive back to Amazon.

Andrew -

Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!

Carl - Reply

Hello Carl. What have you done after switching places between the two drives? Can you explain it with more details please? I have the HDD in the hard drive place, and an SSD in the optibay, and I have a lot of freeze / beachball. Thanks.

danielsam55 -

I'm on a Macbook pro 13" Late 2011.

danielsam55 -

I have the startup set to the SSD in the optibay.

danielsam55 -

I've already done it. switch the hard drives and reboot, that's all. Working without beachballs XD

danielsam55 -

My understanding is that SSDs will work (at 6Gbps) in the optical bay of late-2011 13" MBP models but not in late-2011 15" or 17" models and not in earlier 13" models. Are those of you reporting problems installing on late-2011 13" models (MD313LL/A [2.4Ghz] or MD314LL/A [2.8 GHz])?

Steve - Reply

I'm experiencing the same issues with the HDDs in the optical bay. I've tried multiple drives (WD caviar blue 3G and a Seagate 6G) with no luck thus far. I replaced the SATA cable and that didn't help with either drive. My SSD still works fine in the main bay but I would like the extra storage.

For those of you who got the HDD in the optical bay working, which HDD (brand and model) did you use?

My MBP is a Late 2011 15" (8.2)

woestmab - Reply

My understanding is that SSD in the optibay for 2011 MBPs will only work on the late-2011 13" model (not the 15" or 17"). I can confirm that it works in my late-2011 13" MBP. I have a Samsung EVO 500GB in my optibay (HGST 1TB in the hard drive bay) with no problems at all: negotiated link speed of 6Gbits for both drives and not beach balls or other slowdowns.

Steve -

I'm not trying to put an SSD in the optical bay. As I said, I've tried multiple HDDs but none of them seem to work. I know that it's possible to put an HDD in the optical bay because I bought the computer with one in it but it seems that none are recognized. I have tried multiple brands and speeds with no luck. I would like to know which specific model of HDD works in the late 2011 15" optical bay.

Thanks

woestmab -

Many people have this problem and they all had the 2011 MBP model. The SATA controllers are both 6Gb/s on optic drive and HDD from 2012 (mid 2012 anyway). And of course we're talking about the non-retina. The last non-retina came out mid 2012.

maniajami - Reply

I just installed a Crucial M200 6 GB/s ssd in a 2012 15" Macbook Pro, working without issues. It seems the 2011 models are problematic.

Martin G - Reply

Once the hard drive is snug, reinsert the plastic spacer while holding the hard drive against the bottom of the enclosure. Once the hard drive is snug, reinsert the plastic spacer while holding the hard drive against the bottom of the enclosure.
  • Once the hard drive is snug, reinsert the plastic spacer while holding the hard drive against the bottom of the enclosure.

Make sure you have removed the 2 screws at the end of your super driver unit and move it to your NewHD bay with the metal piece eye loop.

Kamiiyu - Reply

Normally with the HD enclosure there come a set of screws. use these to screw down the HD in the enclosure since you need to flip it up side down to reinstall it into the MBP

Bart - Reply

Here they picture Crucial as their choice, you can also find some great options at Samsung (it is what I installed and it works just as good if not better than the crucial I installed in my wife's iMac. here is their site http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/solid...

Its just another great option. Also when installing SSDs make sure to enable TRIM support (crashes can and probably will occur if you don't) TRIM enabler is available free and the pro version is $10 http://www.cindori.org/software/trimenab... It is the easiest solution for this issue.

Robert Wacker - Reply

Use two Phillips #1 screws to secure the drive to its enclosure. Use two Phillips #1 screws to secure the drive to its enclosure.
  • Use two Phillips #1 screws to secure the drive to its enclosure.

With the particular drive bay adaptor I used, these attachment screws were already fitted to the adaptor but were found at the sides, not underneath. Indeed, the adaptor had no screw holes on the underside.

jjsanderson - Reply

At first I couldn't get my machine to even turn on - thought it was the battery connector, but in the end I just had to reset the SMC. (http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964 - see "Resetting the SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own").

mainframe - Reply

Attach the optical drive bracket to the new enclosure with two Phillips #0 screws.
  • Attach the optical drive bracket to the new enclosure with two Phillips #0 screws.

  • Reconnect any cables you have removed from the original optical drive onto the optical bay enclosure.

I have the drive installed with this bay, but the drive does not appear in the Disk Utility. I see a 'Nvidia MCP79 AHCI' in the system information, but no drive listed with it. Is there some special driver needed to get the MCP to see the drive?

toddfletcher - Reply

Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.

claude - Reply

Mate,

My mbp shipped with OS 10.8, and I had upgraded twice to 10.10

I've a 10.7 USB which upgraded my old MBP.

My plan today was to boot with my new ssd, my time machine back up and the Lion usb plugged in.

I would then click on the Lion usb, and tell it to put the OS and time machine back up on the ssd.

So I help down ALT and when it started it gave me the options of the usual Mac internal or the Lion USB.

I clicked Lion, but instead of taking me to the install options (Disk utility, restore from time machine etc etc) it gave me that grey circle with a diagonal line through it. The no entry sign - grey on grey - that I think you have.

Some googling said that it is because I was trying to usb a 10.7 install on a MBP that shipped 10.8

You can't go back, apparently.

So if any of the OSs are older than the mac you got, you will get this error. The grey in grey no entry.

I just cloned my HDD to my ssd (Carbon copy cloner free 30 day trial) using an external stat-usb3 wire and all is good.

Rory -

it does not recognize the hard drive in the enclosure, what should i do?

elvin00 - Reply

simple question, how do I use the removed drive to play a DVD? Why don't I just use digital media...yadayada...I know. I'm currently in the hospital, did this drive swap for busy work. The littles want to watch an old DVD and I can't solve the issue.

gator6 - Reply

This will give you instructions on how to get your DVD player to work in an external enclosure: http://macenstein.com/default/2011/07/ho...

Steve -

I have a 17" Macbook Pro6,1 unibody with an Intel Core i5, 2.53GHz. I was successful installing a 250GB SSD in the DVD bay, and I'm able to boot from it. I did this by first installing OS X 10.9.4 on the SSD mounted into an external HD case, testing the system to see if it would boot up into the SSD, then installing the SSD and carrier in the DVD drive bay. The system now boots up from the SSD with no problems. If you are having installation problems, I recommend trying this method.

roger hall - Reply

This is really for step 23: reassembly

You can not get the orginal screws back in to hold the new optical drive replacement in place because there is a black plastic filler running along the front edge of the part. There is no place for the screw head to go. I had to remove some of the plastic to get the machine reassembled. Whoever tested this overlooked what I think is a major problem. How many macbook pros are out there with only one (maybe two if you're lucky) screw holding this thing in place?

I got extra screws and have no idea why. The bits included in the kit are poor and don't work on most of the screws. I had to use my own tools instead.

eetech - Reply

Hi,

I'm using a 13' MBP mid 2010 and I just swapped my HDD for a SSD. Al works perfectly fine!

So i bought the unibody laptop dual drive (from iFixit) and replaced the optical drive for the original HDD from my MBP. The installation with this guide went perfectly, however, the HDD is not recognized in disk utility.

I put the old HDD back on the original HDD bay, the HDD boots and works. I placed back the optical drive in the optical bay, also works. But when i put the HDD in the unibody laptop dual drive (iFixit), it is not recognized via the USB-port(however, the HDD starts spinning) or when installed in the optical bay.

So i think there is a software issue where my MBP does not recognize a HDD in the optical bay. Is there a way to force the OS to look for storage/HDD via the optical bay STATA cable?

All help is welcome!

Thanks,

Leon

Leon - Reply

Leon: did you fix your issue? I'm facing the same problem.

Rafael Borges -

No, afraid not..

Leon -

also having the same problem, not recognizing second hdd

cmaizan -

Same here: installed original hdd in optical bay and it won't mount. Tried it using the sata cable on different computer, and the drive spins, but doesn't mount either. Would love to get a fix (or at least an explanation) for this. The whole point was to add extra storage, but so far, no dice.

Simon Abrams -

Did you ever find a solution?

I installed mine, but the ssd I'm using was a bootable usb running Yosemite, and now that I plugged it in, I'm getting a circle with the slash through it when I try to boot to it, and I can't unmount it or reformat it from the recovery Disk Utility or in Mountain Lion on the stock hdd still inside.

drguttridge -

Same issue here unfortunately... new SSD in primary slot is recognized fine and allowed me to install OS X with no issues from USB. However, both during the install when booting from USB and post-install within the full El Capitan OS, I simply do not see any '2nd' hard drive in the system - for the record I just reused the same 500GB HDD that came with my MBP; and I ran the exhaustive System Profiler tests prior to doing any work to ensure I'd have no HW issues/surprises. Sure enough,. I can hear the mechanical drive churning as the power runs to it, so I know it's hooked up okay. For some reason the drive just isn't being recognized by the Mac OS. Hoping someone can help me resolve this so I don't feel bad about spending the [extra] money on the iFixit enclosure system vs. one of the cheaper alternatives I found online, sigh... Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!

Brian M -

Figured I'd reply to my own message just above for those interested or following my situation. The 'churning' I heard was actually the left fan inside the system, which I managed to disassemble so I could lubricate the sleeve bearing with a touch of mineral oil - now it's as quiet as ever and works great. Also, I ordered a replacement optical SATA adapter cable from iFixit and this resolved my issue of accessing the hard drive moved to the optical slot inside the dual drive enclosure. Long story short - all of my issues are resolved thanks to some disassembly/repair work and new parts from iFixit!

Brian M -

Same problem happens, i don’t know how to fix that as well. Anyone has any idea? Thanks

jimmychan1007 -

Hi!

I followed the tutorial and everything works fine when I use an HDD 320 go but when I use the new HDD I bought which is an Hitachi 1T 7200T 2.5 P I have some trouble. The disk utily takes a long time to recognize the new hard drive and then starts not responding.

I tought my new HDD might be broken but when I use it with an external portable HDD Enclosure it works fine...

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Julie

Julie Odeursa - Reply

I do believe the max size HDD is a 750GB. 1TB might be too big. Though the ONLY place I found this stated was on iFixit. No where else.

zondervon -

I just have finished installing second SSD to my MBP (unibody 15` 2010).

First one was changed like one year ago. Samsung 500GB SSD. It is in my HDD bay and I'm running system from it.

Today I put a new Samsung 1TB 850 Evo 1 SSD in to my optic bay.

I encounter problem with SSD not recognized by Finder.

But It was recognized by Disk Utility.

What I did was I erase new SSD by Disk Utility. Then the new partition was created and now It has been seen by Finder.

So If you see it in Disk Utility just erased it.

Some extra info in under this link--> https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4...

Wish you all luck :)

rybafly - Reply

Hi all,

I did this and all seemed to be working fine, both drives showed up and all was good then about 20 minutes later i got a message saying that "the drive had been ejected incorrectly" or something like that. The drives have now disappeared from finder and Disk Utility. I took the SSD out of the superdrive caddy and put it in an external USB3 caddy, it's working fine. I even left this connected over night (all OK). This morning i put the SSD back into my Late 2011 MacBook and the same thing happened, 20ish minutes and then the eject message... Have i missed something?

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Steven Vacher - Reply

Dear iFixit

I changed my Hdd with an ssd using this guide. My hdd is now in a caddy where the optical drive used to be.

I can see my original drive ( Toshiba 500GB ) in the disk utility-app, but i can't reach my data on it.

When i take it out of the caddy again and put it in a external Hdd case, i can read it perfectly fine.

So there is nothing wrong with the hdd or the connection.

Is this a problem i can fix with software?

Thx for the help!

Jonas Lesage - Reply

Those were Phillips #00 in my case, not #0, on the small metal mounting bracket.

Oliver Creighton - Reply

Don't ditch that drive! You can still use your optical drive externally with the help of our SATA Optical Drive USB Cable. Align the cable's SATA connector with the drive's port and plug in securely. Plug the USB connector into your laptop and your optical drive is ready for use.
  • Don't ditch that drive! You can still use your optical drive externally with the help of our SATA Optical Drive USB Cable.

  • Align the cable's SATA connector with the drive's port and plug in securely.

  • Plug the USB connector into your laptop and your optical drive is ready for use.

There is a small metal button in the front of the drive and you can use that to eject the drive if you were wondering.

Joseph Landry - Reply

my drive’s connector is nothing like that, and I’m wondering is it possible to connect it to another computer?

grantdavis - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

51 other people completed this guide.

Andrew Optimus Goldberg

Member since: 10/17/2009

343,635 Reputation

1,038 Guides authored

Team

iFixit Member of iFixit

Community

130 Members

6,829 Guides authored

4 Comments

I went through these steps. I dint really have any trouble but now my computer won't turn back on. I have a fair bit of experience opening macbook pros, but I can't figure out what happened. I retrace the steps and look through everything but I can't see why it won't turn on. Any thing I can test? Any help?

signupjordanmathis - Reply

I was able to use the original HDD for Time Machine backups and put a SSD in the original HDD spot, which is a great setup. Of course, I have backups going to a Time Capsule too. The only thing with my model MBP (mid-2011) is that I only get 3 Gigabit speeds, which isn't a huge deal since I'm mainly using the extra space for backups. I really like that I don't have to hear the DVD drive winding up and making spinning noises when I boot up anymore.

mtlangr - Reply

So this may make me sound like an idiot, but this will work on a Macbook pro 13" model purchased in April of 2012 correct?

Jordan - Reply

When these steps are completed, I should be able to turn the machine on and it just work? No formatting or configuration needed?

David - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 19

Past 7 Days: 116

Past 30 Days: 521

All Time: 52,766