Introduction

There are many benefits to adding a second hard drive to your laptop such as improved speeds, greater storage space, and less heartache when installing new software. Use this guide to install one using our optical bay hard drive enclosure.

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

Bizarre much?

Will - Reply

It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

Andrew Janke -

I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

leonie - Reply

Great advise! Love it! :)

Ririds -

I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

Now I use these:

http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

Richard Sato -

I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

Roscoe -

I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

jelimoore -

Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

maccentric -

I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

Nils -

@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

Roger - Reply

Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

wresnick - Reply

Hi,

Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

H Stahl -

MacBookPro8,2

Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

Mountain Lion

May someone help me?

I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

Piero - Reply

To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

1982sketcher -

Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

- zerø K

zeroK - Reply

for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

mindful - Reply

These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

Thanks!

Marcos - Reply

During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

kusi - Reply

There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

Print the repair guide.

Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

Same thing with any part you remove.

splashzoneent - Reply

Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

Tommy Kedar -

Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

nclarke36 -

Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

SOME TRICKS -

1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

cheers- Durango CO!

Dgodrummer - Reply

Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

kevicoll409 - Reply

Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

Danno - Reply

Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.
  • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

Januar Wiyogo - Reply

Remove the two 7.4 mm Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case.
  • Remove the two 7.4 mm Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case.

  • Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not remove the battery, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.

  • You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-6 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.

Jon Daniels - Reply

I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.

dave - Reply

The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.

Abe - Reply

I believe they are Y1 screws, no?

Mark -

Short of taking out the battery is there something else I can do to protect the motherboard?

Bruce Bell - Reply

What worked for me was actually a set of needlenose pliers - the heads on those screws aren't flush, they actually stick out enough that it's possible to turn them from the outside. Caused some scuff marks on the finish of the screws but it's not like anyone's going to see them anyway!

oboewan42 - Reply

A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).

akronymus - Reply

It says "Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard." This is obviously a boilerplate instruction that is not appropriate for a repair guide.

Well, DO you have to remove the battery? IS this one of those repairs where it's "not necessary but prevents accidental shorting"?

Obviously, this instruction is boilerplate text that accompanies almost all the repair guides-- but there shouldn't be boilerplate text there, since this is a specific guide for replacing the Magsafe DC-in jack and not the harddrive.

skat1140 - Reply

Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-point screw.
  • Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-point screw.

  • Remove the last 7.4 mm Tri-point screw securing the battery to the upper case.

Is removing the battery necessary?

bname - Reply

It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.

Daniel Brauer -

Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.

Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."

To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...

Andrew Janke - Reply

Thanks for that warning, Andrew.

Max Fenton -

Happened here too, thanks for the tip!

Franco Bianchi -

As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.

Max Fenton - Reply

Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?

laurie - Reply

One of the most important tool you should get is the head strap magnifier with lighting, it will make your viewing and capable ability much more confident.

James -

Answered my own question ... the list at the top of this page is dif from the list when you order the part.....

laurie - Reply

Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver

Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver

Tao - Reply

And yes, taking the battery out does naturally make the hardware clock reset.... It's easily fixed. See Andrew Janke's comment above.

It's a small hassle, compared to needing to possibly replace your logic board because a surge from your battery fried it.

Tao - Reply

Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)

Ivan Keller - Reply

I stripped the Y screw! Arghhhh. Any help ideas?

erinandjoy - Reply

new battery drains at the rate of about 10% a minute. i may have received a faulty one but i wouldn't have bought it if i knew what i know now.

aozoren - Reply

Is this a battery from iFixit?

Scott Dingle -

Is all of this necessary if I am just needing to put a new top to my old bottom?

sherry williams - Reply

Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case. Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.
  • Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

  • Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

Add Comment

Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector.
  • Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector.

  • Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.

  • Pull the battery cable connector away from the center of the logic board.

I'm having the same problem as previous commenters: the battery now drains much faster. It's the original factory unit—I only replaced the HD, which is working great.

Is there something I am missing with the battery reconnection? Maybe it's loose?

I just want to make sure before I crack open my laptop again.

cmalec722 - Reply

Fast battery drain problems might be due to a corrupted power manager circuit on the logic board. To reset it, remove the battery, press the power button for about 5-10 seconds, then reinstall the battery. I know the problem might have been partly due to removing the battery in the first place, but this is the procedure for resetting what might have gone wrong. It might also help to do a PRAM reset, by holding down Command-Option-P-R at power (not just from a restart), and let the Macbook chime twice after its initial powerup chime.

johnsawyercjs -

The spudger works well for detaching the connector.

skat1140 - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.

Add Comment

Black Friday
Broken doesn't stand a chance.
Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket (toward the optical drive) on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket (toward the optical drive) on the logic board.

This step is optional. If the cable is to hard to remove, you can just leave it connected and just make sure the cable stays on the side while you remove de optical drive.

Bernak - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up off the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up off the logic board.

Add Comment

Remove the two Phillips screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing. Carefully rotate the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing (with AirPort/Antenna cables still attached) out of the lower case.
  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing.

  • Carefully rotate the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing (with AirPort/Antenna cables still attached) out of the lower case.

Be extremly carefull while unscrewing these screws. They are made from a more delicate metal than the ones on the outside of the Mac. If You bought the 54 piece set available on Ifixit - be warned - the phillips screwdriver caps do not do the job, and You should have a "shallower" phillips screwdriver here.

michalwoloszanski - Reply

Hi guys - this is the second last remaining screw (last one is underneath the board housing at the far corner as seen in Step 11) that's in my way before I can remove the CD-drive.

I believe I've used a wrong Philips screwdriver and now the screw itself has lost it's groove.

Problem is - the screw is really tight (first time opening up this particular MBP) - is there a way in which I can "extract"the screw?

Thanks.

theimperialdragon - Reply

Did you ever figure this out? I'm facing the same issue.

William Kuan -

Yep same here, does anyone have any tips for getting this particular screw out? Thx!

Mike Slott - Reply

Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case:
  • Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case:

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips screw securing the optical drive bracket to the upper case near the fan.

    • Two 2.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case near the optical drive opening.

These screws actually use a #000 Phillips bit. The kit for this repair comes with everything you need *except* that. The difference between the two bits is night and day. I'll bet some—maybe even most—people can unscrew them with the included #00 bit, but mine were seated pretty firmly. With work, I got two of the three out. I nearly stripped the last one beyond use before I went out and bought a new bit to try. I'm not sure how to suggest adding that size bit to this guide, but I think that should maybe happen.

When getting back to this step for re-assembly using the dual HD housing, just know that the screws might not actually fit. I found that the heads of the screws were actually too big to fit flush against the housing. So I only used two of the three screws to re-mount. One of them is at a bit of an angle, too.

Overall, I am still happy with this whole setup.

dentondon - Reply

Lift the optical drive near its connector and pull it away from the upper case to remove it from the computer.
  • Lift the optical drive near its connector and pull it away from the upper case to remove it from the computer.

Add Comment

Pull the optical drive cable out of the optical drive.
  • Pull the optical drive cable out of the optical drive.

  • Be sure to pull by the edges of the connector, not by the cable itself.

  • Optical drive remains.

  • If you have a CD or any other object jammed in your optical drive, we have an optical drive repair guide.

Add Comment

Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.
  • Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.

Add Comment

Remove the plastic spacer from the optical bay hard drive enclosure by pressing in on one of the clips on either side and lifting it up and out of the enclosure. Remove the plastic spacer from the optical bay hard drive enclosure by pressing in on one of the clips on either side and lifting it up and out of the enclosure.
  • Remove the plastic spacer from the optical bay hard drive enclosure by pressing in on one of the clips on either side and lifting it up and out of the enclosure.

The bay and dvd drive cable at iFixit is $40.00 (Unibody Laptop Dual Drive)

But for $10 more you can get an external casing that will protect your super drive form MCE (http://store.mcetech.com/Merchant2/merch...) A total of $50 dollars. It is what I used and works great and looks pretty and is guaranteed to protect your superdrive. MCE also gives you a disk with software to patch the DVD Player to work with external dvd drives. So For an extra $10 dollars you get better software functionality and a case for your super drive. It works great.

Robert Wacker - Reply

Robert, do you by chance also know where to buy an external drive case to make the old hard disk an external portable hard disk ?

Nina Nokia -

Make sure that the hard drive connectors are facing down before placing it into the enclosure. Gently place the hard drive into the enclosure's hard drive slot. While firmly holding the enclosure in place with one hand, use your other hand to press the hard drive into the enclosure connectors.
  • Make sure that the hard drive connectors are facing down before placing it into the enclosure.

  • Gently place the hard drive into the enclosure's hard drive slot.

  • While firmly holding the enclosure in place with one hand, use your other hand to press the hard drive into the enclosure connectors.

It is not a good idea to put fast SSDs into the optibay. System tries to negotiate at 6 Gbit, but it fails; disk is recognized but it couldn't even be formatted. I've waisted a lot of time to find a reason. After swapping SSD with original mac's HD both work properly, one at 6, another at 3 Gbit

nicholas - Reply

Good to know, thanks!

zondervon -

No problems here with a Samsung EVO in the optical bay. Only downside that is not really fast (80-90 mb/s) but amazing performances on booting time, shut off and opening programs.

Mike - Reply

I have to withdraw my comment. It is NOT a good idea to put a SATAIII SSD in the optical bay. It gives random freezes. Swapping it with a HD is indeed better. Better read/writes too. Only downside is that SMS won't work on the optical bay so treat your baby with care. Also Sleep issues might occur when placing a HD in the optical bay (a total freezing system). I already wasted a HD that was in the optical bay.

Mike - Reply

I've replaced the optibay with a samsung 840 pro but can't format it nor copy files (a few files work) to it. Do you suggest putting the HDD in the optibay instead? Did you clone the HDD to the SSD before swapping them? Will my Mac boot from the HDD the first time I boot even though it's in the optibay? I would really appreciate an answer, I've spent too many hours trying to figure it out!

Carl - Reply

Also had this same problem. Tried and failed a Samsung firmware upgrade. Ended up send drive back to Amazon.

Andrew -

Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!

Carl - Reply

Hello Carl. What have you done after switching places between the two drives? Can you explain it with more details please? I have the HDD in the hard drive place, and an SSD in the optibay, and I have a lot of freeze / beachball. Thanks.

danielsam55 -

I'm on a Macbook pro 13" Late 2011.

danielsam55 -

I have the startup set to the SSD in the optibay.

danielsam55 -

I've already done it. switch the hard drives and reboot, that's all. Working without beachballs XD

danielsam55 -

My understanding is that SSDs will work (at 6Gbps) in the optical bay of late-2011 13" MBP models but not in late-2011 15" or 17" models and not in earlier 13" models. Are those of you reporting problems installing on late-2011 13" models (MD313LL/A [2.4Ghz] or MD314LL/A [2.8 GHz])?

Steve - Reply

I'm experiencing the same issues with the HDDs in the optical bay. I've tried multiple drives (WD caviar blue 3G and a Seagate 6G) with no luck thus far. I replaced the SATA cable and that didn't help with either drive. My SSD still works fine in the main bay but I would like the extra storage.

For those of you who got the HDD in the optical bay working, which HDD (brand and model) did you use?

My MBP is a Late 2011 15" (8.2)

woestmab - Reply

My understanding is that SSD in the optibay for 2011 MBPs will only work on the late-2011 13" model (not the 15" or 17"). I can confirm that it works in my late-2011 13" MBP. I have a Samsung EVO 500GB in my optibay (HGST 1TB in the hard drive bay) with no problems at all: negotiated link speed of 6Gbits for both drives and not beach balls or other slowdowns.

Steve -

I'm not trying to put an SSD in the optical bay. As I said, I've tried multiple HDDs but none of them seem to work. I know that it's possible to put an HDD in the optical bay because I bought the computer with one in it but it seems that none are recognized. I have tried multiple brands and speeds with no luck. I would like to know which specific model of HDD works in the late 2011 15" optical bay.

Thanks

woestmab -

Many people have this problem and they all had the 2011 MBP model. The SATA controllers are both 6Gb/s on optic drive and HDD from 2012 (mid 2012 anyway). And of course we're talking about the non-retina. The last non-retina came out mid 2012.

maniajami - Reply

I just installed a Crucial M200 6 GB/s ssd in a 2012 15" Macbook Pro, working without issues. It seems the 2011 models are problematic.

Martin G - Reply

Once the hard drive is snug, reinsert the plastic spacer while holding the hard drive against the bottom of the enclosure. Once the hard drive is snug, reinsert the plastic spacer while holding the hard drive against the bottom of the enclosure.
  • Once the hard drive is snug, reinsert the plastic spacer while holding the hard drive against the bottom of the enclosure.

Make sure you have removed the 2 screws at the end of your super driver unit and move it to your NewHD bay with the metal piece eye loop.

Kamiiyu - Reply

Normally with the HD enclosure there come a set of screws. use these to screw down the HD in the enclosure since you need to flip it up side down to reinstall it into the MBP

Bart - Reply

Here they picture Crucial as their choice, you can also find some great options at Samsung (it is what I installed and it works just as good if not better than the crucial I installed in my wife's iMac. here is their site http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/solid...

Its just another great option. Also when installing SSDs make sure to enable TRIM support (crashes can and probably will occur if you don't) TRIM enabler is available free and the pro version is $10 http://www.cindori.org/software/trimenab... It is the easiest solution for this issue.

Robert Wacker - Reply

Use two Phillips #1 screws to secure the drive to its enclosure. Use two Phillips #1 screws to secure the drive to its enclosure.
  • Use two Phillips #1 screws to secure the drive to its enclosure.

With the particular drive bay adaptor I used, these attachment screws were already fitted to the adaptor but were found at the sides, not underneath. Indeed, the adaptor had no screw holes on the underside.

jjsanderson - Reply

At first I couldn't get my machine to even turn on - thought it was the battery connector, but in the end I just had to reset the SMC. (http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964 - see "Resetting the SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own").

mainframe - Reply

Attach the optical drive bracket to the new enclosure with two Phillips #0 screws.
  • Attach the optical drive bracket to the new enclosure with two Phillips #0 screws.

  • Reconnect any cables you have removed from the original optical drive onto the optical bay enclosure.

I have the drive installed with this bay, but the drive does not appear in the Disk Utility. I see a 'Nvidia MCP79 AHCI' in the system information, but no drive listed with it. Is there some special driver needed to get the MCP to see the drive?

toddfletcher - Reply

Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.

claude - Reply

Mate,

My mbp shipped with OS 10.8, and I had upgraded twice to 10.10

I've a 10.7 USB which upgraded my old MBP.

My plan today was to boot with my new ssd, my time machine back up and the Lion usb plugged in.

I would then click on the Lion usb, and tell it to put the OS and time machine back up on the ssd.

So I help down ALT and when it started it gave me the options of the usual Mac internal or the Lion USB.

I clicked Lion, but instead of taking me to the install options (Disk utility, restore from time machine etc etc) it gave me that grey circle with a diagonal line through it. The no entry sign - grey on grey - that I think you have.

Some googling said that it is because I was trying to usb a 10.7 install on a MBP that shipped 10.8

You can't go back, apparently.

So if any of the OSs are older than the mac you got, you will get this error. The grey in grey no entry.

I just cloned my HDD to my ssd (Carbon copy cloner free 30 day trial) using an external stat-usb3 wire and all is good.

Rory -

it does not recognize the hard drive in the enclosure, what should i do?

elvin00 - Reply

simple question, how do I use the removed drive to play a DVD? Why don't I just use digital media...yadayada...I know. I'm currently in the hospital, did this drive swap for busy work. The littles want to watch an old DVD and I can't solve the issue.

gator6 - Reply

This will give you instructions on how to get your DVD player to work in an external enclosure: http://macenstein.com/default/2011/07/ho...

Steve -

I have a 17" Macbook Pro6,1 unibody with an Intel Core i5, 2.53GHz. I was successful installing a 250GB SSD in the DVD bay, and I'm able to boot from it. I did this by first installing OS X 10.9.4 on the SSD mounted into an external HD case, testing the system to see if it would boot up into the SSD, then installing the SSD and carrier in the DVD drive bay. The system now boots up from the SSD with no problems. If you are having installation problems, I recommend trying this method.

roger hall - Reply

This is really for step 23: reassembly

You can not get the orginal screws back in to hold the new optical drive replacement in place because there is a black plastic filler running along the front edge of the part. There is no place for the screw head to go. I had to remove some of the plastic to get the machine reassembled. Whoever tested this overlooked what I think is a major problem. How many macbook pros are out there with only one (maybe two if you're lucky) screw holding this thing in place?

I got extra screws and have no idea why. The bits included in the kit are poor and don't work on most of the screws. I had to use my own tools instead.

eetech - Reply

Hi,

I'm using a 13' MBP mid 2010 and I just swapped my HDD for a SSD. Al works perfectly fine!

So i bought the unibody laptop dual drive (from iFixit) and replaced the optical drive for the original HDD from my MBP. The installation with this guide went perfectly, however, the HDD is not recognized in disk utility.

I put the old HDD back on the original HDD bay, the HDD boots and works. I placed back the optical drive in the optical bay, also works. But when i put the HDD in the unibody laptop dual drive (iFixit), it is not recognized via the USB-port(however, the HDD starts spinning) or when installed in the optical bay.

So i think there is a software issue where my MBP does not recognize a HDD in the optical bay. Is there a way to force the OS to look for storage/HDD via the optical bay STATA cable?

All help is welcome!

Thanks,

Leon

Leon - Reply

Leon: did you fix your issue? I'm facing the same problem.

Rafael Borges -

No, afraid not..

Leon -

also having the same problem, not recognizing second hdd

cmaizan -

Same here: installed original hdd in optical bay and it won't mount. Tried it using the sata cable on different computer, and the drive spins, but doesn't mount either. Would love to get a fix (or at least an explanation) for this. The whole point was to add extra storage, but so far, no dice.

Simon Abrams -

Did you ever find a solution?

I installed mine, but the ssd I'm using was a bootable usb running Yosemite, and now that I plugged it in, I'm getting a circle with the slash through it when I try to boot to it, and I can't unmount it or reformat it from the recovery Disk Utility or in Mountain Lion on the stock hdd still inside.

drguttridge -

Same issue here unfortunately... new SSD in primary slot is recognized fine and allowed me to install OS X with no issues from USB. However, both during the install when booting from USB and post-install within the full El Capitan OS, I simply do not see any '2nd' hard drive in the system - for the record I just reused the same 500GB HDD that came with my MBP; and I ran the exhaustive System Profiler tests prior to doing any work to ensure I'd have no HW issues/surprises. Sure enough,. I can hear the mechanical drive churning as the power runs to it, so I know it's hooked up okay. For some reason the drive just isn't being recognized by the Mac OS. Hoping someone can help me resolve this so I don't feel bad about spending the [extra] money on the iFixit enclosure system vs. one of the cheaper alternatives I found online, sigh... Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!

Brian M -

Figured I'd reply to my own message just above for those interested or following my situation. The 'churning' I heard was actually the left fan inside the system, which I managed to disassemble so I could lubricate the sleeve bearing with a touch of mineral oil - now it's as quiet as ever and works great. Also, I ordered a replacement optical SATA adapter cable from iFixit and this resolved my issue of accessing the hard drive moved to the optical slot inside the dual drive enclosure. Long story short - all of my issues are resolved thanks to some disassembly/repair work and new parts from iFixit!

Brian M -

Same problem happens, i don’t know how to fix that as well. Anyone has any idea? Thanks

jimmychan1007 -

Hi!

I followed the tutorial and everything works fine when I use an HDD 320 go but when I use the new HDD I bought which is an Hitachi 1T 7200T 2.5 P I have some trouble. The disk utily takes a long time to recognize the new hard drive and then starts not responding.

I tought my new HDD might be broken but when I use it with an external portable HDD Enclosure it works fine...

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Julie

Julie Odeursa - Reply

I do believe the max size HDD is a 750GB. 1TB might be too big. Though the ONLY place I found this stated was on iFixit. No where else.

zondervon -

I just have finished installing second SSD to my MBP (unibody 15` 2010).

First one was changed like one year ago. Samsung 500GB SSD. It is in my HDD bay and I'm running system from it.

Today I put a new Samsung 1TB 850 Evo 1 SSD in to my optic bay.

I encounter problem with SSD not recognized by Finder.

But It was recognized by Disk Utility.

What I did was I erase new SSD by Disk Utility. Then the new partition was created and now It has been seen by Finder.

So If you see it in Disk Utility just erased it.

Some extra info in under this link--> https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4...

Wish you all luck :)

rybafly - Reply

Hi all,

I did this and all seemed to be working fine, both drives showed up and all was good then about 20 minutes later i got a message saying that "the drive had been ejected incorrectly" or something like that. The drives have now disappeared from finder and Disk Utility. I took the SSD out of the superdrive caddy and put it in an external USB3 caddy, it's working fine. I even left this connected over night (all OK). This morning i put the SSD back into my Late 2011 MacBook and the same thing happened, 20ish minutes and then the eject message... Have i missed something?

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Steven Vacher - Reply

Dear iFixit

I changed my Hdd with an ssd using this guide. My hdd is now in a caddy where the optical drive used to be.

I can see my original drive ( Toshiba 500GB ) in the disk utility-app, but i can't reach my data on it.

When i take it out of the caddy again and put it in a external Hdd case, i can read it perfectly fine.

So there is nothing wrong with the hdd or the connection.

Is this a problem i can fix with software?

Thx for the help!

Jonas Lesage - Reply

Those were Phillips #00 in my case, not #0, on the small metal mounting bracket.

Oliver Creighton - Reply

Don't ditch that drive! You can still use your optical drive externally with the help of our SATA Optical Drive USB Cable. Align the cable's SATA connector with the drive's port and plug in securely. Plug the USB connector into your laptop and your optical drive is ready for use.
  • Don't ditch that drive! You can still use your optical drive externally with the help of our SATA Optical Drive USB Cable.

  • Align the cable's SATA connector with the drive's port and plug in securely.

  • Plug the USB connector into your laptop and your optical drive is ready for use.

There is a small metal button in the front of the drive and you can use that to eject the drive if you were wondering.

Joseph Landry - Reply

my drive’s connector is nothing like that, and I’m wondering is it possible to connect it to another computer?

grantdavis - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

116 other people completed this guide.

Brittany McCrigler

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Step 8: The cable needs quite a hard pull to come out, be careful to pull straight! When reconnecting I used 2 wooden sate stick to push the connector back in.

Now running an sad for startup and the old HD as capacity storage. Thanks for the great manual on how to do these!

Bart - Reply

After finishing this guide, it occurred to me to test out a little known feature in MacBooks...

The MacBook has sensors that detect motion. When the sensors detect motion that is violent enough to risk damaging the spinning hard drive (and it doesn't have to be much), the head gets temporarily disengaged from the disk so that the risk of damage decreases. If you ever pick up your laptop quickly and hear a click, that is what is happening.

After installing a hard drive where the computer only ever expected an optical drive, that safety feature is lost. Now when I pick up my MacBook when the drive is spinning, there is no click. I put an SSD in place of the old drive, so I can't confirm if it still works in the actual hard drive area of the computer... but the one in the optical drive area definitely no longer can protect itself from rapid movement.

Still a fantastic upgrade, but remember to treat the hard drive in the optical bay as slightly more prone to failure than before.

dentondon - Reply

The fact that we can still use the optical drive (step 20, now external) is nice, but I would like to put it into some enclosure/caddy/case as well instead of having it bare naked . Don't you sell anything for this?

Alexandre Drouin - Reply

Great instruction found it very useful and worked for me all the way. Thank you

Ishaaq Ahmed - Reply

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