1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

      • Eight 3.0 mm

      • Two 2.3 mm

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - Reply

    In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

    Christian Mohr -

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Lionheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

    drscottgreenwell - Reply

    Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

    cloughenough -

    This works for rMBP 2012 late

    iyeori -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - Reply

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - Reply

    Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

    Epifanio - Reply

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - Reply

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - Reply

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - Reply

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

    brian2burnett - Reply

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - Reply

    Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

    So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

    Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks


    Jakob Dahlin - Reply

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - Reply

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - Reply

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    • Set the lower case aside.

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - Reply

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - Reply


    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..


    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - Reply

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - Reply

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    • First, take off the rear panel on the Macbook Pro. You will need to use a screwdriver to remove Apple's pentalobe screws.

    • I used paper to make a layout of the screw locations just in case they were different screws; luckily they weren't.

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    • Once opened up, you'll see the battery sticker. Peel back the sticker and disconnect the battery cable. See the breakdown review for better pictures on removing the battery cable.

    • Luckily, to remove the heatsink, you don't have to remove anything else except for the battery cable and screws holding it down.

    • After the battery is disconnected, note the locations of the screws on the heatsink. there are 4 screws around both the CPU and GPU along with a screw at each end of the heatsink

    • The screw on one end of the heat sink has a rubber cap. Remove the cap to access the screw.

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    • Remove this caked on thermal paste with the ArctiClean.

    • Do the same for the CPU and GPU.

    • Note: the black borders around the CPU and GPU seems to be unattached on one side. Don't worry, you didn't break it. Be sure to thoroughly remove the excess cleaning solution from under it by gently blowing it out if necessary. I'm sure it will evaporate in a timely manner otherwise.

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    • Re-apply your quality thermal paste to the now shiny clean CPU and GPU. DO NOT use too much. We don't want to overdo it like Apple. A line the size of a grain of rice on both the CPU and GPU should be perfect. **You do not need to apply thermal paste on the heatsink as well - only on the CPU and GPU.

    • Re-assemble the MBP, making sure to spread out the paste evenly as you place and screw the heatsink back in. Also remember that the paste will spread as the unit heats up. DO NOT leave air pockets in the paste when covering the processor and GPU.

    • I got temps about 10-12C cooler during game usage. Have fun with your cooler MBPr.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

21 other people completed this guide.


Member since: 06/22/2012

768 Reputation

1 Guide authored


Thanks, very helpful!

claes - Reply

is there a video for this procedure? not sure where the battery sticker is.

Bill - Reply

If I do this, do i loose the warranty?

Christer Nielsen - Reply

There are a few inaccuracies on this guide. As with any unofficial guide, use your common sense.

First, on the bottom cover, the 2 screws closest to the rear and center are DIFFERENT from the other 8 (10 total on the bottom). The author of this guide said they're all the same which isn't quite true. Use the Pentalobe screwdriver for these screws and make sure you find the 2 that are DIFFERENT or the bottom cover won't close just right.

Second, the screws for the heat sink should only be accessed by a T5 torx, not the pentalobe. This was omitted from the required tools list.

Third, there is no battery sticker.

Fourth, check and re-check what you see vs an online guide, especially since nothing from iFixit is official Apple documentation.

Charles Yan - Reply

Not working for me, same as before procedure.

Oleg - Reply

I noticed, years ago, that my friend and I had the same laptop; mine overheated and his didnt. That was the first time I tried to reapply thermal paste - to great success, my laptop ran even cooler than his after that point. I got a MBP in January of 2012 and it ran excessively hot. Eventually, I sold it on eBay (after upgrading the drive) and sold it for the same price for which I bought it (only because of the slight upgrade to the drive).

Long story short, I just got the 13" MBP with Retina and it's the COOLEST running laptop I've EVER used. It runs at 103 (F) at idle, and rarely goes beyond 125 (F). At load, playing Half-life2, it got up to 148 (F). Again, super low.

What's the POINT, you ask? HUMAN ERROR. Reapplying thermal paste may fix the problem of heat for some. It may change nothing for others, and, for a few, it may exacerbate the problem - at least if you don't know how to spread paste nice and thin, just right...

So don't argue; it MAY help some people. It may NOT for others.

rockstartravesty - Reply

Btw, what I meant by "Human Error" is simply the fact that there are PEOPLE applying thermal paste to these machines all day long in a factory. It will never be done exactly the same way. They squirt it on, moosh it down and fasten on the heatsink. Then they move onto the next machine on the assembly line. They don't take their time.

For me, with my latest 13"rMBP, I got lucky. Mine runs ridiculously cool. I was surprised. Still am.

When I say I "GOT LUCKY," I mean that I got lucky my computer got John-Doe-Lee from second shift (I'm being facetious by saying the person who thermal pasted MY machine...) DID A GOOD JOB. Not everyone will be so lucky. If YOU happen to get one of those laptops that run a bit hotter than you like you DO have the option of troubleshooting - and as a last restort, you CAN try the thermal paste trick. I've used Antec Artic Silver for years. Quality stuff considering how affordable it is. Just remember to clean off the old gunk first. Apply a little, then spread it THIN!

rockstartravesty -

I tried to do it. But the screwdriver for removing the screws around the heat sink (T5) IS NOT IN THE IFIXT EPIC SCREWDRIVER SET! Come on, guys!

I did a little cleanup with air around the fans and my mac is a little bit cooler. Back to the store. I can't believe I don't have a tork screwdriver set. I know, I know....

not nice!

pran - Reply

What is the black tape seen on the cpu and gpu chips? It looks as though it is cut specifically to be placed around the main die? Also where might i find it? Thanks

Paul - Reply

Complete today on mid 2015 15" with r9 m370x things seems to work however my backplate i bit "loose" in the middle where all the hardware is. if i push in the middle the backplate bends inwards

Kasper Madsen - Reply

Update reseting the backplate and not ultra tightning the screws made there squeaking much better.jeg a tiny tight when resistance is meet. also when i had the backplate of the 2nd time, i pushed all the spring in the middle a few times so they would reseat dont know if it did anything. but anyways the squeaking is much better now. as in what i would expect even if the mac never been opened

Kasper Madsen -

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