How to Fix the Midea Washing Machine E3 Error Code

Introduction

An E3 error code on a Midea washing machine usually means the lid lock system isn’t working correctly. This guide shows how to check simple causes like debris or lid alignment, then how to access, remove, and test the lid lock and the magnetic switch. It also covers what to check if both parts test good, including wiring checks and when to consider a failed control board. These steps also apply to many similar Midea-manufactured washers, like Criterion and Arctic Wind, with the same lid lock design.

What you need

Step 1 Check for simple lid lock issues

Inspect the lid lock housing for debris, and remove anything that could block the latch.
Close the lid and confirm it sits flush against the top of the washer.
Make sure nothing prevents the lid magnet from lining up with the switch area when the lid is closed.
If the lid doesn’t fully seat or the lock area is obstructed, correct that and recheck for the E3 error.

Step 2 Power down and disconnect water

WARNING: Unplug the washing machine before servicing it.
Shut off the water supply valves.
Disconnect the water hoses and the drain hose as needed, and keep the hoses suspended to reduce spills.
Caution: Water can spill when hoses are removed, so work slowly and keep the area dry to prevent slipping.

Step 3 Remove and prop up the washer top

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two rear screws, one on the left and one on the right.
Position the washer close to a wall, and apply painter tape to the lid so it can’t flop backward into the wall or console.
Pull the washer top toward you, then lift it up so the lid can pivot upward and rest against the wall.
Caution: Watch the impact switch at the back left corner because it can catch and restrict movement.
Support the raised lid with a piece of wood or a metal rod so both hands are free for testing.

Step 4 Expose the lid lock and magnetic switch

Locate the switch assembly area at the upper right corner of the lid underside.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws from the plastic cover.
Lift off the cover to expose the lid lock and the magnetic switch with its smaller yellow wire.

Step 5 Remove the lid lock

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the lid lock in place.
Lift the lid lock out of its housing.
Press the wire-harness retainer clip, and slide the harness out of the casing.

Step 6 Remove the magnetic switch

Use a small Phillips screwdriver or a Phillips bit to remove the tiny screw holding the magnetic switch.
Lift the magnetic switch out of the housing.
Disconnect the magnetic switch from its wire harness.

Step 7 Test the magnetic switch with a magnet

Set a multimeter to continuity or resistance (ohms).
Press the multimeter probes into the harness terminals wherever metal is exposed, either at the front of the harness or just behind where the wires plug in.
Bring a strong magnet up to the magnetic switch, and watch for the reading to change from open loop to continuity near 0.0 ohms.
If the switch won’t trigger with a magnet, replace the magnetic switch (part number 17438000000221).
If the switch tests good, test it while assembled on the lid in case the lid magnet is weak, misaligned, or blocked by an obstruction.

Step 8 Test the lid lock electrically and mechanically

Press the lock bar in and out, and confirm it moves freely without obstruction.
Measure resistance between the two blue wires, and confirm it reads between 30 and 60 ohms.
Measure the pair of black wires, and confirm it reads OL when the bar is fully extended.
Press the bar into the housing and confirm the black-wire reading changes to continuity between 50 and 80 ohms.
If the black-wire reading stays OL when the bar is pressed in, replace the lid lock (part number 17438000001615).
Note: It can be cost-effective to replace both switches if one fails, since shipping can be a large portion of the total cost.

Step 9 Reinstall the switches and the cover

Place the magnetic switch onto its housing and reinstall its small screw.
Set the lid lock onto its two mounting pegs, and reinstall its two Phillips screws.
Clip the lid lock wire harness into place so it’s secured in the housing.
Reinstall the plastic cover over the switches and tighten its three Phillips screws.
Lower the lid carefully and check that it operates normally before fully closing up the washer.

Step 10 Reinstall the washer top and retest

Lower the washer top while watching the impact switch at the back left corner so it doesn’t catch on the tub.
Align the top so it’s flush with the washer sides, then press it backward so it slides into place and locks onto the chassis screws.
Test the washer with the lid in place, and check whether the E3 error code returns.
If the error is gone, reinstall the two rear Phillips screws to secure the top.

Step 11 Check for a weak or failed lid magnet

Hold a replacement magnet near the switch location to see if the E3 error clears.
If an external magnet fixes the problem, the lid’s internal magnet is likely bad.
Replace the lid or glue a new magnet onto the outside of the lid at the switch location.

Step 12 Access the control board

WARNING: Keep the washer unplugged while accessing the control board.
Remove all screws along the back of the washing machine that secure the rear panel area.
Remove the two screws on the left side where the control board housing sits.
Lift the control board housing up and out once the screws are removed.
Remove the two or three screws that hold the housing cover, then press the edges to release and flip off the top.

Step 13 Test lid lock signals at the board and inspect wiring

Locate connectors CN4 and CN12 on the control board, which control the door lock system.
Disconnect CN4 and CN12, then test CN4 pin one to CN12 pin one with the lid open and then closed.
Test the second wire path while pressing the black switch in and out, and watch for cycling between open loop and continuity near 0.00 ohms.
If the signal cycles correctly, the wiring is likely fine and the control board is a likely cause.
If a mode never produces the expected reading, inspect the harness for frayed or broken wires, especially in tightly bundled wire clusters.

Step 14 Decide whether to replace the control board

Consider replacing the control board if the lid lock and magnetic switch test good and the wiring tests good, but the E3 error remains.
Use the correct control board for the exact washer model, since board part numbers can vary by model.
A commonly referenced control board part number for similar models is 17138000020922.

Conclusion

Reconnect any hoses that were removed, turn the water back on, plug the washer in, and run a test cycle to confirm the lid locks and the E3 error is gone. If the E3 code only appears intermittently, recheck lid alignment and the switch area for anything that could prevent the lid magnet from reliably triggering the magnetic switch.