Introduction
This guide provides step-by-step instructions for replacing the USB port on the HTC One S. Intermediate soldering skills are required to remove the component.
Tools
Parts
No parts required.
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Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
can i use just ordinary microwave???
If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
Yes, as does a heat gun.
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Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener across the bottom casing.
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Gently place an opening pick in the corner of the gap between the bottom casing and rear case.
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Slide the opening pick along the side of the casing, prying it away from the adhesive as you go.
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Use your fingers to pull the bottom casing off the rest of the phone.
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Starting at the groove near the headphone jack, use a plastic opening tool to lift the top casing.
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Use your fingers to pull the top casing off of the rest of the phone.
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Remove the following screws holding the rear case to the rest of the phone:
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Two 3.15 mm Phillips #00 screws
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One 4.15 Torx T5 screw
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One 4 mm Torx T5 screw
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Place your fingers on either side of the phone and gently push up on the rear case.
While pushing up on the rear case, starting at phone bottom, you MUST slide a thin plastic pry tool between the metal case & plastic screen frame to release the clip. Do this on each side. If you don't, the case sides at the bottom will only bend upward a bit, and the rear case will not come off! (Except perhaps by using considerably more force than is wise.)
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Pull the rear case away from the rest of the phone with your hands.
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Using the pointed end of a spudger, lift the battery cable and release the connector.
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Switching to the flat end of the spudger, work your way underneath the battery and peel it away from the adhesive.
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Remove the battery from the phone.
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Remove the three 3.15mm Phillips #00 screws from the turquoise case.
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Using a plastic opening tool, lift the turquoise case from the end near the headphone jack.
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Remove the turquoise cover from the phone.
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A camera filter is now free to move, so remove it using tweezers.
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Use tweezers to lift the yellow polyimide tape that covers the ZIF connectors.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the white tab on the largest ZIF connector opposite the USB connector.
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Use the pointed edge of a spudger to work the ZIF cable out of its connector.
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Repeat the procedure from steps 19 and 20 to remove the cables from the remaining ZIF connectors.
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Using the pointed end of the spudger, pop the antenna cable from its connector on the motherboard.
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Remove the 3.15 mm Phillips #00 screw from the motherboard.
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Remove the motherboard from the rest of the phone.
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Using tweezers, remove the adhesive tape around the USB port.
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Using a soldering iron set at 400 degrees Celsius (752 degrees Fahrenheit), heat the solder joints lateral to the USB port. Use a pair of tweezers to lift the port from the board.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Team
IUPUI, Team S4-G3, Harley Spring 2017 Member of IUPUI, Team S4-G3, Harley Spring 2017
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5 Guides authored
which temperature must be used for heating? Thx
fbarletta - Reply
I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.
By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.
Fredrik -
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
windizy - Reply
I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.
Martin Gray - Reply
I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier
Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply
Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.
Fletcher Carpenter - Reply
I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??
putinaspiliponis - Reply
I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.
Laurie Higgins - Reply
Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.
Yousef Ghalib - Reply
I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it
Sherry Carew - Reply
Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.
Esmond Pitt - Reply
Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?
Regards,
Cedric
Cedric VINCENT - Reply
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nailakanwal182 - Reply