HTC One S Rear Facing Camera Replacement

Written By: Jay Miley (and one other contributor)

Comments: 20
Favorites: 1

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

20 minutes

Introduction

If your rear camera isn't working anymore, replace it using this guide.

Tools

Buy these tools

Parts

No parts required.

Step 1 iOpener Heating

Image 1/2: Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

Image 2/2: For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
- For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

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which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - 06/02/2015 Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

hello - 08/10/2016

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - 12/06/2016 Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - 12/28/2016 Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - January 30 Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - April 10 Reply

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - June 29 Reply

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - July 19 Reply

Step 2

Image 1/1: Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.
Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.
If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

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May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - 12/16/2015 Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - 12/21/2016 Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - January 13 Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - February 7 Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - April 13 Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - April 27 Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - April 28 Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - May 3 Reply

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - June 11 Reply

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - July 14 Reply

Step 3

Image 1/1: The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

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Step 4 Rear Case

Image 1/1: Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the casing.

Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener across the bottom casing.
Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the casing.

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Step 5

Image 1/3: Slide the opening pick along the side of the casing, prying it away from the adhesive as you go.

Image 2/3: Slide the opening pick along the side of the casing, prying it away from the adhesive as you go.

Image 3/3: Slide the opening pick along the side of the casing, prying it away from the adhesive as you go.

Gently place an opening pick in the corner of the gap between the bottom casing and rear case.
Slide the opening pick along the side of the casing, prying it away from the adhesive as you go.

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Step 6

Use your fingers to pull the bottom casing off the rest of the phone.

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I cannot see 2 screws .there is plastic cover it please advise me

Panida Musikamas - 08/24/2016 Reply

Step 7

Starting at the groove near the headphone jack, use a plastic opening tool to lift the top casing.

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Step 8

Use your fingers to pull the top casing off of the rest of the phone.

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Step 9

Image 1/1: Two 3.15 mm Phillips #00 screws

Remove the following screws holding the rear case to the rest of the phone:
- Two 3.15 mm Phillips #00 screws
- One 4.15 Torx T5 screw
- One 4 mm Torx T5 screw

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Step 10

Image 1/3: It is important to start from the bottom of the phone because the rear case wraps around the front of the phone at the top which makes it impossible to start prying from there.

Image 2/3: It is important to start from the bottom of the phone because the rear case wraps around the front of the phone at the top which makes it impossible to start prying from there.

Image 3/3: It is important to start from the bottom of the phone because the rear case wraps around the front of the phone at the top which makes it impossible to start prying from there.

Place your fingers on either side of the phone and gently push up on the rear case.
It is important to start from the bottom of the phone because the rear case wraps around the front of the phone at the top which makes it impossible to start prying from there.

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While pushing up on the rear case, starting at phone bottom, you MUST slide a thin plastic pry tool between the metal case & plastic screen frame to release the clip. Do this on each side. If you don't, the case sides at the bottom will only bend upward a bit, and the rear case will not come off! (Except perhaps by using considerably more force than is wise.)

beadlamglass - 08/06/2016 Reply

Step 11

Pull the rear case away from the rest of the phone with your hands.

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Step 12 Battery

Using the pointed end of a spudger, lift the battery cable and release the connector.

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Step 13

Switching to the flat end of the spudger, work your way underneath the battery and peel it away from the adhesive.

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Step 14

Remove the battery from the phone.

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Step 15 Motherboard

Remove the three 3.15mm Phillips #00 screws from the turquoise case.

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Step 16

Using a plastic opening tool, lift the turquoise case from the end near the headphone jack.

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Step 17

Remove the turquoise cover from the phone.

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Step 18

A camera filter is now free to move, so remove it using tweezers.

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Step 19

Use tweezers to lift the yellow polyimide tape that covers the ZIF connectors.

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Step 20

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the white tab on the largest ZIF connector opposite the USB connector.

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Step 21

Image 1/3: To do this, you may have to slowly work both sides until the whole cable is released.

Image 2/3: To do this, you may have to slowly work both sides until the whole cable is released.

Image 3/3: To do this, you may have to slowly work both sides until the whole cable is released.

Use the pointed edge of a spudger to work the ZIF cable out of its connector.
To do this, you may have to slowly work both sides until the whole cable is released.

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