One of the most frustrating things that can happen to your tablet is the inability for it to charge; the tablet is practically useless if you're unable to charge it. This guide will breakdown all the necessary steps to ensure that you're able to charge life into your tablet. In this guide, you will be removing the following:

  1. Back Cover
  2. Battery
  3. Charging Port

Prepare your required tools, a new charging port for your tablet, and set aside about 10 to 20 minutes to delve into the inner workings of your HP Slate.

  1. Begin your replacement by using a T3 or T4 Torx screwdriver.
    • Begin your replacement by using a T3 or T4 Torx screwdriver.

      • Remove the two 1.4mm x 3mm Torx Head screws at the top of the device.

    On the HP 10 Plus 2201 there are no head screws. I used the spudger to 'carefully' separate the case. There are little snaps on the inside of case that will separate with little pressure on spudger.

    RB Richter - Reply

    I used these directions to replace HP Plus 10 2201 battery. I bypassed speaker installation.

    RB Richter - Reply

  2. With the pointed end of the spudger, remove the thin metal band.
    • With the pointed end of the spudger, remove the thin metal band.

      • It is easiest to remove the metal band through the headphone opening.

    On HP 10 Plus 2201 there is no metal band. The case simply unsnaps apart.

    RB Richter - Reply

    • Using the flat end of the spudger, pry back the rear plastic cover.

      • As you work your way around the edge, several "pop" noises will be made. These noises are caused by the plastic clips coming undone.

    This is basically how I opened my HP 10 Plus 2201. "Using the flat end of the spudger, pry back (apart) the rear plastic cover from tablet.

    RB Richter - Reply

    • Remove the rear cover.

    Add Comment

    • Locate and remove the yellow tape covering the red and white speaker wires.

    The inside of my HP 10 Plus 2210 looks similar but not exactly as this illustration

    RB Richter - Reply

    The battery connections weren't the plug in type. The three battery battery wires (red, white, & black) were soldered into place,

    RB Richter - Reply

  3. Spread Fixmas Cheer
    Get $12 off your purchase of $50 or more with code FIXMAS12
    Spread Fixmas Cheer
    Get $12 off your purchase of $50 or more with code FIXMAS12
    • Using the pointed end of the spudger, push both sides of the speaker wire connector out of its base.

      • Push the same amount on both sides of the connector to avoid jamming or twisting its metal pins.

      • Do not yank or pull on the speaker wires, since they are fragile. Only push on the white connector.

    Do not pull on wires. Never force anything.

    RB Richter - Reply

    note the route of the speaker cables round the battery

    Alan Boddey - Reply

    • Gently pull back the foil covering the gold charging port ribbon.

    Add Comment

    • Using the flat end of the spudger, lift up the black panel covering the charging port connector.

    • Gently slide the charging port ribbon out from its housing.

      • It may be easier to use the pointed end of the spudger than your fingers.

    Add Comment

    • Lift gold charging strip away from the battery.

    Add Comment

    • Push the white battery connector out of its housing using the pointed end of the spudger.

    Add Comment

    • Using the #00 Phillips Head screwdriver, remove the 5 screws holding the battery in place.

      • The four 1.75mm x 3mm silver Phillips Head screws circled in red are interchangeable.

      • The black 1.75mm x 4mm Phillips Head screw must go back to the same spot during reassembly.

    Add Comment

    • Lift battery out of its place and set aside.

    Add Comment

    • To free the speaker assembly, you will need a #00 Phillips Head screwdriver.

      • Remove the two 1.75mm x 3mm Phillips Head screws from the speaker assembly.

    Add Comment

    • Pull back the foil overlapping the charging port to reveal another 1.75mm x 3mm Phillips Head screw.

      • Remove the screw with a #00 Phillips Head screwdriver.

    Add Comment

    • Lift the charging port and set it aside.

    Add Comment


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

32 other people completed this guide.

Raj Parekh

Member since: 04/14/2014

511 Reputation

1 Guide authored


Cal Poly, Team 13-30, Maness Spring 2014 Member of Cal Poly, Team 13-30, Maness Spring 2014


3 Members

8 Guides authored


where do you get the replacement parts for charging port

Scott Winstone - Reply

Since HP does not supply the replacement ribbon, or many other parts for that matter, it is easiest to search on eBay and/or Craigslist for the parts needed. I found that the UK version of Amazon and eBay offer the best availability for such parts.

Zachary -

I had to stop at Step 1. The T4 Torx screwdriver is too big.

stevwatsn - Reply

My apologies for the incorrect sizing of the Torx driver; please use a T3 sized driver, as it is the next size down from the T4.

Zachary -

do you have a product number for the charger strip?

Courtney - Reply

I damaged my connector and found the charging strip is available on ebay but is expensive at $50, I managed to find a replacement connector and solder it on for $10 (Ebay Item Number 171379112183). Really happy to have my tablet working again.

William - Reply

Thank you so much! Paid an extortionate £24.99 for a replacement cable on Amazon, then used a Torx 4 to do the necessary, following your superb instructions. Worked a treat and my daughter's Slate7 is now charging. Still cheaper than a new tablet (and I hate throwing things away that are all-but working). If it helps anybody, the packet that my replacement came in had the following part numbers: 749770-001 and 729883-001 (these are HP part numbers).

John - Reply

In step 13. Why is it necessary to free the speaker assembly?

I don't see what difference this makes.

Motty - Reply

Here's a somewhat simpler approach that may work for you as well.

I found, that once I got the back off, the charger seemed to work better. I think, with the back off it gave the frame a little more flexibility, and allowed me to push the USB charger in a little tighter and make better contact. That told me, that the internal mirco USB port and cable were OK, but just not making good contact with my charger.

So, I sealed up the tablet, and using a sharp knife, I shaved a bit of the rubber insulation off the end of my USB charger. That allowed for more of the metal end to stick out and make better contact.

For the moment, it seems to be working, and saves mucking around with the inside of the tablet.


Chris - Reply

How do these steps correlate to the hd version of the slate7?

alexanderdutton - Reply

Guide was excellent and replaced power strip. Unfortunately device is still dead. Is it worth replacing battery, or should the device work with a dead battery anyway as the power connects direct to the motherboard

gahempton - Reply

Mine too, have you found a fix, yet?

Paul Wilkinson -

Instructions very clear, thank you.

I got both the usb harness and a set screw drivers for less than £18. Unit hopfully now fixed.

ournarrowboat - Reply

Apart from wrong driver size, which was soon rectified, it's a great tutorial. Thank you for that.

tonyparki - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 3

Past 7 Days: 23

Past 30 Days: 115

All Time: 45,282