This guide gives you a look at the Fujifilm X100T's major components, including its lens and motherboard, and provides complete disassembly instructions.

Slide the small black tab on the bottom of the camera to the left to unlock the battery cover.
  • Slide the small black tab on the bottom of the camera to the left to unlock the battery cover.

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Push the orange tab up to release the battery.
  • Push the orange tab up to release the battery.

  • Slide the battery out of the camera.

  • Invert the camera to slide out the battery more easily.

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  • Beginning in one of the corners, use a spudger to pry the leather casing off of the camera.

  • When working with electronics, it's important to choose a tool that's ESD-safe to avoid accidental damage to the device. The metal spudger is great when you need serious prying power, but the regular black nylon spudger or a plastic opening tool should be used whenever possible.

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  • Carefully and slowly peel the leatherette skin off of the camera by hand.

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  • Locate the six 4.0 mm screws on the bottom of the camera.

  • Use a JIS#00 driver to remove these screws.

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  • This is a camera produced by a Japanese camera manufacturer. The Japanese camera industry loves using JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws.

  • Don't be tempted by your Phillips screw driver collection. Although PH#00 will interchange with JIS#00, it is not a perfect fit. Using Phillips will cause more wear on the head of the JIS screws and cause the screws to prematurely strip.

  • Have both JIS#00 and JIS#000 screw drivers available for this teardown. Luckily, both bits are included in the ifixit 64bit kit.

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  • Remove the bottom plate and the tripod mount by lifting them using your hands.

  • The tripod mount is keyed and fits into a series of pegs on the back side of the bottom plate.

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  • Get your picks ready!

  • To get any deeper into this camera, the right-hand port cover assembly must be removed first. Once this is removed, you will have access to the screws that secure the other components.

  • There's a tiny hole toward the bottom right of the battery compartment. Using the pick tool, press into that hole.

  • A plastic rod will release. That plastic rod is the axis the hinge rotates about.

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  • Fuji! What did we tell you about hiding screws behind closed doors! That's pretty under the table Fuji. Don't do it again. Promise?

  • The devil's in the details with this camera. Slide the port cover off the hinge rod.

  • Using a pair of pliers, pull the rod out of the top plate of the camera. Now you'll finally have access to all the screws that need to be removed.

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  • Remove the three 5.0 mm screws by the micro-USB, micro-HDMI and remote ports.

  • Remove the screw hidden behind the port cover hinge.

  • The port cover assembly should come off with ease. If it is stuck, try prying with plastic shims.

There is a fourth screw under the flap part that must be removed before the plastic facing will come off the frame.

cyrways - Reply

  • Remove the two 6.0 mm screws beneath the port cover assembly.

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  • Remove the four 5.0 mm screws on the side of the camera that is opposite to the battery.

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  • Remove the two 2.5 mm screws on the bottom face of the camera.

  • The rear LCD & button assembly should now pivot up and to the right, exposing the LCD & button ribbon cables.

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  • Once the electronics are exposed, it is highly recommended that you remain ESD safe. ESD can fry your precious electronics, and pass thousands of volts through components only rated for a few V DC. ESD can sure ruin your day if you are not careful.

  • Use an ESD mat and wrist strap, and make sure you are grounded for the remaining of the teardown. Make sure your ESD mat is connected to the ground of a nearby outlet, and make sure your house actually has a ground. Consult an electrician if you are unsure.

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  • Remove the orange ribbon cable by opening up the ZIF connector with a plastic prying tool or toothpick.

  • This separates the LCD from the main board.

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  • Remove the white/blue ribbon cable from the motherboard by gently pulling with your hands.

  • The LCD and button assembly should now be fully detached.

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  • Remove the 2.5 mm screw in the center, above the removed LCD screen.

  • Remove the two 4.0 mm screws on the right.

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  • Remove the two 4.5 mm screws on the side of the camera opposite of the battery.

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  • Peel off the copper tape connecting the frame to the camera.

  • This allows for ground continuity and partial heat dissipation for inner components.

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  • Remove the adhesive tape holding the speaker.

  • The speaker is held into place by double sided tape. Pull it off the steel frame and move it toward the bottom of the camera

  • This protects the speaker wires from getting clipped by the removal of the steel frame.

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  • Remove these two ribbon cables so they don't get cut or damaged when removing the entire steel frame.

  • Use a pair of tweezers or small, blunt object to remove these ribbon cables. They are in a tight location so have patience and be gentle

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  • Fold back the steel frame by lifting it off and gently pulling it to the side using your hand.

  • Be careful not to detach the frame from the camera.

  • Remove the three 4.2 mm screws on the green chip.

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  • Locate the orange ribbon cable on the side of the camera that has the battery slot.

  • Remove the ribbon cable from the ZIF socket using a plastic opening tool.

  • Remove the ribbon by lifting it off with your hands.

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  • Remove the rubber eyepiece guard by lifting it off with your hands.

  • If the rubber eyepiece is being stubborn, an old giftcard won't mind :D

  • Remember, your Mohs hardness scale! This camera uses metalized plastic extensively.

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  • Remove the two 4.0 mm screws from the front of the camera. These are most likely T1 torx screws.

  • I can't stress enough how tiny these screws are. Pencil point sized.

  • Fuji, screws are a thing of beauty. Why are you trying to hide them?

  • The closest bit in the ifixit kit is the star shaped #2 screw head.

  • Using the wrong bit will strip the Torx screw head, so keep that in mind.

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  • Remove the top frame by lifting it off and pulling it towards the backside of the camera.

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  • Use a plastic opening tool to detach the two ribbon cables from the top frame.

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  • Locate the adhesive connecting the black and red wires above the green board.

  • Remove the adhesive by gently pulling it off with your hand.

  • Remove the copper tape that grounds the sensor heatsink to the sensor PCB.

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  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry off the ribbon located next to the top-right of the green sensor board.

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  • Use a plastic opening tool and metal tweezers to lift up the ribbon located next to the center-right section of the green board.

  • Going any further into the camera is guaranteed to destroy the calibration of the sensor box in the camera. The plane of the sensor is calibrated to the plane of the lens elements or lens mount. Adjusting the tension on any sensor box mount screw makes the sensor and elements out of orthogonal alignment.

  • Remove the CMOS sensor aluminum heatsink by lifting it up with your hands. The sensor, PCB and heatsink are integrated into one unit.

  • With the sensor assembly removed, you should now be able to be able to see the silver lens cover beneath.

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  • You should be wearing nitrile gloves when working with lens assemblies. Oils from fingerprints leave marks on the lens elements and cause major headaches during reassembly.

  • If you left fingerprints on a lens, you want to identify if it is plastic or glass and clean with the appropriate cleaning agent. If it is glass, use reagent grade Isopropyl alcohol + lens wipes. If plastic use a plastic friendly alcohol or cleaner. Some clear plastics become opaque with Isopropyl alcohol.

  • Remove the four 3.2 mm screws on the silver lens cover.

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  • Use a plastic opening tool to lift up the silver lens cover.

  • You should now be able to see the black lens cover underneath.

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  • Remove the three 3.5 mm screws on the black lens cover.

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  • Lift up the black lens cover with your hands.

  • You should now be able to see the spring-loaded lens.

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  • Remove the three 3.5 mm screws on the spring-loaded cover.

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  • Remove the spring and the lens by gently lifting both the components upwards.

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  • Once the lens has been taken off, flip the camera over and unscrew the two 4.0 mm screws on the front of the camera, next to the lens cover.

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  • Remove the two 4.0 mm screws located on the side of the camera.

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  • Slowly pull the now unscrewed motherboard off of the camera

  • Be careful not to tear the orange ribbon when pulling it apart.

  • Using the metal tweezers, pull apart the orange ribbon from the motherboard.

  • The motherboard is connected to the battery.

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  • Using the precision tweezers, remove the white strip from the corner of the motherboard.

  • Remove the two 4.0 mm screws from the top left and the bottom left.

  • After the screws are removed, carefully detach the motherboard from the battery case by carefully separating the two parts.

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  • Use the plastic opening tool to remove the orange ribbon on the motherboard by wedging the tool under the ribbons black tab, and carefully prying upwards.

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  • NOTE: The next step involves soldering. Refer to this iFixit Guide on soldering How To Solder and Desolder Connections .

  • Desolder the wires connecting the motherboard and battery case.

  • You are now left with a standalone motherboard.

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  • You have disassembled the Fujifilm X100T!

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

16 other people completed this guide.

Christian Johansen

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yeey I can now finaly try to fix sticky aperture blades problem on my x100

inorog - Reply

good one, good humor... buy a black one or a high serial number

lechter - Reply

Thanks for great guide. 1 little question. I have dust on the front cover of viewfinder. Can I just take the top cover (step 19,20) without disassembling other parts in previous steps?

Thank you in advance

desolatorbui - Reply


i would like to see top cover disassembled too - same issue, dust in viewfinder

amadeuszleonardo -

That should be possible! Based on posted pictures it seems to me that top plate is being hold in place by 5 points. Two of them are easily accessible from the front (step 19) but other 3 are hidden and may require partial disassembly to get proper access. There is one screw on each side of a camera (step 9 on top and step 14 n top) but most difficult is the one hidden behind back panel (step 13 red circle) to get there may really require taking the whole back of the camera off. Unless You are skilled with some level of previous experience .... I would let the technician to clean the dust out.

krakowiak1 -

I have done something akin to that partial disassembly procedure on old rangefinder film cameras (exactly for the same reason - to clean the dust out of viewfinder) but never worked on modern electronic cameras. If You take a look at step 12 you will realize one flex connecting main controls on the camera back ... it could be easily damaged making your back camera controls pretty unresponsive ... even some of them ... for me this is a game stopper ;-)

krakowiak1 -

Thats a very good question. I think dust might have entered from the diopter adjustment wheel gap. There doesnt seem to be anything stopping that from reaching the front outside part of the viewfinder.

Have you tried compressed air or blowers right in that same gap? Might make the dust spec move.

allanwl -

Here is a partial disassembly guide for the X100 to remove the top plate:

The X100T screws look similar, between these 2 guides you should be able to figure out the easiest way to partial disassemble the X100T to remove the top plate. Note that in the other directions you still have to remove screws for front and rear shell so that you can move them to access the hidden screws that secure the top plate.

madmaxmedia -

Is it possible to further disassemble and replace the viewfinder element? The diopter adjustment on mine is broken and impossible to set to a neutral position.

Joao - Reply

Hi! I've gotten some soda in my manual focus ring, and it's sticky and impossible to turn. This guide and others like it do not mention disassembly of the front part of the lens and focus ring. Do I jave to do a full disassembly of the camera or can I get to it from the front?

glenruben - Reply

Hi, I've got a problem with my X100, probably the internal battery ... but I can't see that in all theses steps ? Can you tell me if we can change the internal battery without change the internal motherboard ?

damiengiraud - Reply

It’s not a battery, it’s a capacitor. And yes, you can change it by soldering it off and replacing it with one from a junk board off ebay or something. If you can find the specs, you may find the component by itself, but Fuji won’t provide it because they rarely receive individual components.

dep37junkmail -

Step 6 is not working for me. The plastic port cover assembly is stuck in place, even when all 3 screws are removed. I have tried wedging plastic shims under the sides of the plastic assembly and it still will not budge. It is stuck in the middle somehow. Is there some mechanism holding it in, in the middle? Is there a mating plastic clip on the opposite side of the plastic port cover? How did you remove it?


Tony - Reply

How about the fix lens how can I disassemble

Melvin Dela cruz - Reply

As a former Fuji tech, this break down is about 80% correct. I would not recommend ever removing the CMOS sensor from the lens unit. They are shimmed and calibrated using computers and you run the risk of throwing your focus completely out of whack as well getting dust on your sensor. I also see no mention of discharging the flash capacitor. Unless you like getting shocked, I would recommend discharging it before sticking your fingers or any metal object in the camera. One wrong touch will not only shock you a bit, but also short out certain components on the board if you’re not careful.

dep37junkmail - Reply

Thanks for your feedback! If you click Edit in the right top corner of any guide step, you can add warnings and edit guide text. It will initially get sent to our filters for review, but other community members with higher rep will approve them.

Kelsea Weber -

Hi sir how about the on off switch with shutter button,can I repair on that particular parts or we need to replace whole top plate

Melvin Dela cruz -

very high precision, high-quality guide! This is very professional.even a child could follow these step-by-step town procedure… not sure the child could make it finally! Congrats, well done?!

Olivier Sirven - Reply

There isn’t much in this review about the front fascia of the camera. I’m curious about the bezel ring around the front of the lens. On the silver edition of this camera, that part is silver (It is black on this camera) and I wonder if that ring could easily be removed and replaced with a silver ring? Possible?

I suspect it is simply threaded on and threadlock is underneath which makes it nearly impossible to remove, but perhaps you can let us know.

Daniel Rucci - Reply

Is there a way to just remove the battery door without dissasembly the whole camera ?

Sergio Tkaczek - Reply

This is a really great set of instructions. My x100t took a bath in a river. After drying it, everything seems to work, however there’s a spot that shows up in some photos. It looks like it repeats on each lens element, however I think it’s one spot of dirt on one lens that shows up more weakly with each lens element. I’d like to take it apart and clean it, but I’m worried about throwing off the calibration of the sensor box in the camera after reading the warning in the instructions. Will it be thrown off? Has anyone else had problems after disassembly? Is it likely I’ll have problems? I’m debating if I should mess with it since it’s only noticeable in some photos. It really shows up in landscapes with sky. It’s not noticeable in busier photos. Should I roll the dice?

Jason Lehrer - Reply

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