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Fitgun battery replacement

What you need

  1. Fitgun battery replacement, Open Fitgun at its bottom: step 1, image 1 of 3 Fitgun battery replacement, Open Fitgun at its bottom: step 1, image 2 of 3 Fitgun battery replacement, Open Fitgun at its bottom: step 1, image 3 of 3
    • To access the battery, open the Fitgun from below as follows:

    • Lift the black adhesive foil covering the charging plug and ON/OFF switch with tweezers and peel it off.

    • Loosen the 3 Phillips screws underneath.

    • Lift off base plate and charging electronics

    • Disconnect the 3-pin power supply plug from the main board of the charging electronics.

    • Disconnect the 2-pin battery plug of the 2S Li-ion battery from the charging electronics.

  2. Fitgun battery replacement, Remove old battery: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Caution: The battery should be completely discharged before starting this work to minimise the risk of short circuits.

    • Now it gets tricky: the 2S-Li-ion battery is embedded in the base of the Fitgun and glued in place with foam rubber. It takes a lot of skill to loosen it and remove it past the screw mounts.

    • Avoid damaging the battery! The damage clearly visible in the photo is due to my unsuccessful initial attempt to grip and pull out the battery with needle-nose pliers.

    • My solution: Remove a screw mount with a small saw blade, then reach behind the battery with needle-nose pliers extended with the sturdy hook of a suitable Allen key and push it out from behind through the enlarged opening. This required some skill and patience.

    • The trick with the Allen key as a stable hook worked without causing any damage, as can be seen on the right-hand and undamaged side of the old battery.

  3. Fitgun battery replacement, Connect new replacement battery: step 3, image 1 of 1
    • Obtain a standard replacement 2S-Li-Ion battery, i.e. 2 round Li-Ion batteries in series, i.e. 7.4 V voltage (charge with a maximum of 2*4.2 V = 8.4 V), e.g. a model battery pack LiIon 7.4 V 1500 mAh (many suppliers), if possible with the appropriate 2-pin plug for the Fitgun charging electronics.

    • These battery packs often have both a 2-pin plug for 7.4 V power supply and a 3-pin charging plug (which can control and charge both batteries wired in series separately). If necessary, the 2-pin cable for power supply can be soldered to the old 2-pin plug resulting in 7.4 V across both cells of the 2S Li-ion battery.

    • Alternatively, in the photo I have insulated the individual conductors of the 2-pin, very thick cable with heat-shrink tubing and connected the outer pins (red and black) of the 3-pin cable to the charging board as the + and - ends of the individual batteries connected in series. The middle white cable is also insulated with heat-shrink tubing.

    • The battery socket on the charging board is not marked with + and - poles. In the photo, I painted the - pole black on the inside. The + pole is on the outside, at the bottom edge of the charging board in the photo.

    • Caution: Never touch two poles at the same time with a tool, soldering iron or blade. Risk of short circuit, sparks and fire!

  4. Fitgun battery replacement, Re-assamble: step 4, image 1 of 2 Fitgun battery replacement, Re-assamble: step 4, image 2 of 2
    • Insert the battery into the base of the Fitgun backwards.

    • If a screw mount needs to be removed: Two remaining screw mounts are still in very good condition and stable, and the third can be replaced with a piece of cork that is pressed or glued into the gap. The third screw will then only have a loose hold, but it will still have some support and a counter surface.

    • Reconnect the battery cable and power supply cable to the Fitgun's charging electronics.

    • Secure the charging electronics and base plate to the bottom of the Fitgun using the three screws.

    • Stick the black foil back onto the base section.

    • Ready to charge

  5. Fitgun battery replacement, right connection to a USB charger: step 5, image 1 of 1
    • The Fitgun's charging electronics are extremely simple. It regulates a maximum charging voltage of 8.4 V and a maximum current of 1.3 A derived from 5 V DC at 2 A from the USB port using a very simple step-up booster and switches off when the maximum voltage has been reached.

    • The simple charging control means that the battery is not charged and discharged very carefully and, with frequent use and deep discharge, will unfortunately lose its capacity quickly and repeatedly. This is not very sustainable. A revival with a new replacement battery means you don't have to throw everything away.

    • Despite the USB-C socket, the charging control does not work reliably with modern USB-C chargers. This means that it only works reliably if the USB-C plug is powered by a USB-A charging port that reliably supplies 5 V DC.

    • The simple charging control cannot cope with modern USB-C charging options, i.e. higher voltages or currents. It may not charge at all.

    • My solution: USB-A charger 10 W, i.e. maximum 2 A at 5 V in combination with USB-A to USB-C charging cable

  6. Fitgun battery replacement, P.S. - more detail on the charge electronics: step 6, image 1 of 1
    • A boost converter IC MT3608L is used, very similar to the commonly available IC MT3608 (blue circle marking, designated as UF2 on the circuit board), but with an additional input for current limiting. This IC pin 6 is connected to a weak pull-down resistor of 36 kOhm for a maximum current of 1.3 A (RP2 on the circuit board).

    • However, replacing the boost converter IC requires extremely fine SMD soldering and a magnifying glass (see illustration).

    • MT3608L: https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/22011215...

    • In my case, I was able to replace a defective boost converter with a standard MT3608 IC. The pin assignment for pins 1 to 5 and the design of the voltage divider for voltage control are identical. In the MT3608, pin 6 is not connected (marked NC).

    • When using MT3608 as a replacement, the missing current limitation must then be ensured externally via the USB charging port, e.g. by means of a USB power supply with a maximum of 10 W = 2 A at 5 V USB-A output = 1.2 A at 8.4 V boost charging voltage.

    • MT3608: https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/18111515... The internal limitation of the charging current only activates at 4 A.

Conclusion

Follow the steps in reverse order to reassemble your device.

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