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  1. We'll be changing the oil and filter on my JDM-import 1999 Honda Odyssey with the 2.3L four-cylinder engine
    • We'll be changing the oil and filter on my JDM-import 1999 Honda Odyssey with the 2.3L four-cylinder engine

  2. Thankfully this car has a centre lift point at the front of the subframe at the tow-hook I just used the normal pinch welds to put the jack-stands under
    • Thankfully this car has a centre lift point at the front of the subframe at the tow-hook

    • I just used the normal pinch welds to put the jack-stands under

  3. Open up the bonnet/hood for more light under the vehicle I like to use cardboard to climb under the car
    • Open up the bonnet/hood for more light under the vehicle

    • I like to use cardboard to climb under the car

  4. Position your drain pan, the drain bolt faces towards the rear of the oilpan On this 1999 Odyssey it was a 23mm drain bolt On this 1999 Odyssey it was a 23mm drain bolt
    • Position your drain pan, the drain bolt faces towards the rear of the oilpan

    • On this 1999 Odyssey it was a 23mm drain bolt

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  6. One of the hardest parts of this procedure Honda put the oil filter mounting on the back of the engine block under the intake manifold You have to reach past the subframe, exhaust, and axle
    • One of the hardest parts of this procedure

    • Honda put the oil filter mounting on the back of the engine block under the intake manifold

    • You have to reach past the subframe, exhaust, and axle

    • I like to use oil-filter pliers, but there are a few different tools that can be used

    • Check to make sure the gasket came off with the old filter and did not get left behind on the block

  7. I used a JS Asakashi C-307J, (made in Japan) I can order them shipped from Singapore cheaper then I can buy locally from Repco or Supercheap here in New Zealand Oil up the gasket on the new filter
    • I used a JS Asakashi C-307J, (made in Japan)

    • I can order them shipped from Singapore cheaper then I can buy locally from Repco or Supercheap here in New Zealand

    • Oil up the gasket on the new filter

    • Clean the mounting plate on the block with your rags

  8. If you've not already, put the drain bolt back in
    • If you've not already, put the drain bolt back in

    • Tighten the new oil filter 3/4 of a turn after it touches the block

    • Tighten the drain bolt without breaking it off :)

    • Clean around the filter and bolt with a rag so you can see any leaks

  9. Remove your cardboard and tools Lift the car again from the centre lift point with your hydraulic jack
    • Remove your cardboard and tools

    • Lift the car again from the centre lift point with your hydraulic jack

    • Pull the jack-stands out from each side

    • Carefully lower the car to the ground, leveling it for filling

  10. In the photo, the red circle is the oil fill point, and the yellow circle is the dipstick
    • In the photo, the red circle is the oil fill point, and the yellow circle is the dipstick

    • I used Nulon 10W-40 full synthetic

    • I needed about 4.5L or so to fill

    • I like to use a stubby wide-mouth funnel

    • Pour large oil bottles sideways to reduce the blub-blub effect

  11. Run the engine for about 10 seconds to fill up the filter and oil galleys Turn the engine off and check for leaks
    • Run the engine for about 10 seconds to fill up the filter and oil galleys

    • Turn the engine off and check for leaks

    • Check the level using the dipstick and a rag again, it should have gone down a bit due to the oil filter filling up

    • Top up the level to the upper range of the dipstick

Conclusion

Servicing done!

Gaspard Leon

Member since: 04/24/2010

2,207 Reputation

7 Guides authored

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