Introduction
I wanted to paint my bike’s frame in a paint shop, so I dissasembled everything from the frame.
I had two identical bikes, and learned a lot along the way. I documented everything along the way, and applied some optimizations to the process afterwards, thus the images often contain parts, that are not there by the time (since this last order of actions is the best). Hope you still find it helpful!
What you need
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Unscrew the seatpost clamp screw with the 5mm hex key
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Remove the seat and seat post
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Pull off the seatpost clamp
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Hold the back brake (or hold it in place with a zip tie)
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with the Bosch chain ring lock ring removal tool on a 1/2" ratchet loosen the lock ring on the chain ring
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In a later step, after the carbon belt is removed, the chain ring can easily be pulled down too
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With the help of a Philips 1 screwdriver remove the tiny screw holding the plastic guide in place
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After the screw is removed the plastic can be slid off to the side
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Loosen the back wheel bolts with the 15mm wrench on both sides of the rear axel and move the rear wheel out vertically for a few centimeters
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slide the belt and chain ring off the drive train axel
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Slide the remaining double metal ring off
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Slide the underlying black sealing ring off
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On the right side:
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Remove the 2 screws closer to the front with the help of a 3mm hex key
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When the plastic is a bit loose, a black plastic distance holder can be slid out from between the frame and plastic cover
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Remove the biggest cable, the battery cable:
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Using a flat head screwdriver loosen the catch 1-2mm
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Using pliers disconnect the plug of the powerpack
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Located in 3. place from the left is the back lamp's cable and plug
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It runs directly to the back of the bike and exits the drive units frame part on a hole around the kickstand just below the rear fender
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The cable runs through the inner side of the rear fender and ends in the back lamp
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From the 4. socket remove the plug of the bosch sensor
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The cable goes directly inside the left back fork and exits just before the sensors place
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Remove the flat plug and unwind the cables
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The cable enters the inside of the frame in the middle and exits on the left side on the biggest hole, runs up the frame and to the board computer mount
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The first socket is for the front light and goes straight throw the middle of the frame, and out on the biggest whole
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Runs along the fork and up to the light
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When all plugs are unplugged, the last nut can also be loosened with the 13mm socket
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The drive unit can be shifted horizontally to the other side.
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Remove the screw next to the battery charging port with a PH1 Screwdriver [marked with red circle]
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Remove the upper screw with a 3 mm hex key on both sides. (2x in total) [marked with blue circle on this side]
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For removing the plastic cover of lower battery holding part
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Remove the two black screws from the black plastic with a T15 torx screwdriver
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Release the catch on the lower side (facing the back fork/drive unit)
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By taking the plastic parts apart, the outer shell can be removed
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First remove the cables with smaller plugs through the rectangular hole
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After all other cables removed, the battery plug fits the big hole on its own
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Remove grip on right side
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Loosen the brake lever and pull it off the handle
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Remove - if any - protective/design rubber cap on stem
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Loosen the stem with a 5mm allen key.
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Loosen the two bolts on the side of the stem with the 5mm allen key
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Remove upper bearing
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The lower bearing can be left on the front fork
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shift pedals to a position that allows easy access to the shift cable hardware
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Remove the shift cable hardware ends
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Open the securing closing mechanism on the lower one (open and lift)
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Remove the cable end from its socket
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Loosen the bolts with the 15mm wrench on both sides of the rear axel
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Remove the rear wheel carefully, not to damage the belt!
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To remove the bolt that held the long screw and black part in place,
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use a small but long tool (nail or screwdriver) and put it in the hole, where the removed screw was previously, but not through the upper part of the frame, but diagonally from the outside - thus the bolt can be slightly pushed out of the frame
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Grab this slightly outlying bit with a plier and pull it out
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Loosen the two bolts on the rear part of the frame with 4 mm allen key
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Remove the two screws holding it to the frame's middle (back frame's triangle's corners)
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There are two (1-1) black plastic/rubber plates between the fender and the frame on the screws
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In total the bike rack and rear fender are connected with 4 screws to the frame
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Remove the longer front facing screws (with neck) from the rear end on both sides with 4 mm hex key
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Remove the rubber cap by hand
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Remove the locking screw with a T20 torx screwdriver
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Underlying metal holder (and cable aligner) is held in place by a 3mm hex screw
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A big diametered washer is under the screw head
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Below is the placeholder
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The one on top has sharper corners
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The one on the bottom is fully rounded
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They can either be removed with a specific tool, or with a chisel and a hammer (possibly rubber hammer)
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Check with paint shop if the wholes should be protected
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If needed - insert (short) screws in all places, where there were any before, to save their guideway (14 small type screws, 7 bigger type)
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And the frame is ready for a fresh new paint!!!
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Except for the nuvinci cable setting - this has to be adjusted at the end, when the back wheel is set to the right position and belt tension
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Except for the nuvinci cable setting - this has to be adjusted at the end, when the back wheel is set to the right position and belt tension
Cancel: I did not complete this guide.
One other person completed this guide.
2 Comments
Do you have any photos of the frame after it's been painted?
Yes, I updated the main picture to show the frame after the paint job :)
