Introduction

Yikes! Did that curious little visitor actually poke a finger at the fascinating tweeter dome in your fancy surround audio setup? Well, no need to worry: Dynaudio is a speaker company that keeps spare parts available even decades into a product's lifecycle. They even collect the broken parts for remanufacturing. Way to go! In this guide, I'll show you how to replace a damaged tweeter unit of the Dynaudio Contour Center speaker.

Parts

Look at that dented dome—Ouch!  Let's replace the tweeter unit to get our distortion-free audio back. To begin, use a Hex key (i.e. Allen head) bit or wrench to carefully loosen the outer socket head screws. Do not touch the inner screws! (They fasten the tweeter to the front plate of the component). Start with removing the two bottom screws. That way, the chassis will still be held by the top screw.
  • Look at that dented dome—Ouch! Let's replace the tweeter unit to get our distortion-free audio back.

  • To begin, use a Hex key (i.e. Allen head) bit or wrench to carefully loosen the outer socket head screws. Do not touch the inner screws! (They fasten the tweeter to the front plate of the component).

  • Start with removing the two bottom screws. That way, the chassis will still be held by the top screw.

Add Comment

Lastly, carefully remove the top screw. Use the tool to loosen the hex screw while supporting the front plate of the speaker chassis with your fingers so it does not fall out. When removing the top screw, use your finger for the few final threads. This way, you'll get a better feeling for the moment when the chassis will come off and can take it out securely. The tweeter chassis will still be connected to its electrical cables when you take it out. Set it aside on a stable surface, magnet side down.
  • Lastly, carefully remove the top screw. Use the tool to loosen the hex screw while supporting the front plate of the speaker chassis with your fingers so it does not fall out.

  • When removing the top screw, use your finger for the few final threads. This way, you'll get a better feeling for the moment when the chassis will come off and can take it out securely.

  • The tweeter chassis will still be connected to its electrical cables when you take it out. Set it aside on a stable surface, magnet side down.

Add Comment

Use your fingers to loosen the sealing ring that's now visible in the cabinet opening. You should be able to peel it off without much resistance. Once completely loose, pull  it toward you along  the cables. The old sealing ring will later be replaced with a new one that comes with your spare part.
  • Use your fingers to loosen the sealing ring that's now visible in the cabinet opening.

  • You should be able to peel it off without much resistance. Once completely loose, pull it toward you along the cables.

  • The old sealing ring will later be replaced with a new one that comes with your spare part.

  • What you see inside the cabinet is merely acoustic damping material, not smoke—so no worries, you're absolutely safe :-)

Add Comment

It's soldering time—and it's as easy as can be. Only two connections have to be desoldered before we can remove the old chassis, and they're both easily accessible. Before you start, make sure to take note of the polarity of the cables: The connectors on the chassis are marked with a "plus" and "minus" symbol. Also, one of the two cables will be color coded, respectively. Document which cable belongs on which connector before you begin. Heat the soldering iron to its working temperature of 400 degrees Celsius and hold the tip against the first solder joint right where the solder seems thickest until it starts to liquify.
  • It's soldering time—and it's as easy as can be. Only two connections have to be desoldered before we can remove the old chassis, and they're both easily accessible.

  • Before you start, make sure to take note of the polarity of the cables: The connectors on the chassis are marked with a "plus" and "minus" symbol. Also, one of the two cables will be color coded, respectively. Document which cable belongs on which connector before you begin.

  • Heat the soldering iron to its working temperature of 400 degrees Celsius and hold the tip against the first solder joint right where the solder seems thickest until it starts to liquify.

  • Remove the cable end from the connection bracket as soon as the solder softens. At the same time, remove the soldering iron from the connector. Repeat this procedure with the second solder joint.

Add Comment

After desoldering the electric wires, you're free to remove the old sealing ring and replace it with the new one that comes with your spare part.
  • After desoldering the electric wires, you're free to remove the old sealing ring and replace it with the new one that comes with your spare part.

  • Thread the cables through the new ring and push the replacement ring toward the cabinet, until it is out of the way.

Add Comment

Take the replacement tweeter unit out of its box. Do not lay the tweeter unit onto the work surface while the tweeter is  at the bottom, as this will very likely damage the dome. To prepare for soldering, create an arrangement with spacers that provide enough ground clearance to leave the tweeter dome unharmed. You can use the inside element of the component's packaging carton (which has a cutout at the center) or place an iOpener at the outer rim of the tweeter's base plate, alternatively.
  • Take the replacement tweeter unit out of its box. Do not lay the tweeter unit onto the work surface while the tweeter is at the bottom, as this will very likely damage the dome.

  • To prepare for soldering, create an arrangement with spacers that provide enough ground clearance to leave the tweeter dome unharmed. You can use the inside element of the component's packaging carton (which has a cutout at the center) or place an iOpener at the outer rim of the tweeter's base plate, alternatively.

  • Heat up the iron and melt some solder onto the bared cable strands until a bead of fresh solder has been deposited onto each cable tip. Let the beads cool.

Add Comment

Hold the correct cable end to the correct connector bracket. The bead of solder on the cable end should rest firmly on the bracket. Heat the soldering iron and hold its tip against the metal bracket while touching the solder bead. Wait unil the solder liquifies and starts to  fuse with the metal bracket.
  • Hold the correct cable end to the correct connector bracket. The bead of solder on the cable end should rest firmly on the bracket.

  • Heat the soldering iron and hold its tip against the metal bracket while touching the solder bead.

  • Wait unil the solder liquifies and starts to fuse with the metal bracket.

  • Remove the soldering iron as soon as the solder has started to create an even surface on the bracket. Hold the cable in place until the solder cools. Then repeat this process with the second cable and connector.

Add Comment

Voilà—our cables have been successfully soldered to the new tweeter unit. Good thing we had thought in advance  about replacing the insulating ring before the cables got re-attached. Let's proceed by first placing the ring inside the  recessed surface inside the respective cabinet area. Alternatively, one can place the ring right onto the base plate of the tweeter unit before re-attaching it to the cabinet.
  • Voilà—our cables have been successfully soldered to the new tweeter unit. Good thing we had thought in advance about replacing the insulating ring before the cables got re-attached.

  • Let's proceed by first placing the ring inside the recessed surface inside the respective cabinet area.

  • Alternatively, one can place the ring right onto the base plate of the tweeter unit before re-attaching it to the cabinet.

  • Whatever the approach, make sure that the gaps in the ring are flush with the respective holes in the chassis.

Add Comment

Carefully move the cables back inside the cabinet while moving the tweeter chassis toward its recessed location. While supporting the chassis with your one hand while it's in place, insert the upper screw and screw it in lightly to fix the component in its correct position. Insert both lower screws and screw them in lightly with your fingers.
  • Carefully move the cables back inside the cabinet while moving the tweeter chassis toward its recessed location.

  • While supporting the chassis with your one hand while it's in place, insert the upper screw and screw it in lightly to fix the component in its correct position.

  • Insert both lower screws and screw them in lightly with your fingers.

  • Finally, use your Hex wrench hand tool and tighten all three screws finger tight until the component is securely locked in its place. Make sure not to overtighten the screws.

Add Comment

Shazam—the Contour Center's tweeter unit has been successfully replaced! We're ready for prime time again. After a few hours of use, the outer screws of the replacement tweeter unit can be tightened once more if necessary.
  • Shazam—the Contour Center's tweeter unit has been successfully replaced! We're ready for prime time again. After a few hours of use, the outer screws of the replacement tweeter unit can be tightened once more if necessary.

  • Isn't she a beauty? But why on earth does one feel like watching "WALL-E" or "Short Circuit" with full 5:1 multichannel audio after a repair like this?

Add Comment

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

One other person completed this guide.

Matthias Huisken

Member since: 01/15/2013

337 Reputation

2 Guides authored

Team

iFixit EU Team Member of iFixit EU Team

Community

32 Members

212 Guides authored

0 Comments

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 2

Past 7 Days: 13

Past 30 Days: 53

All Time: 480