Introduction

This guide provides a step-by-step process of how to replace a charging port in the DualShock 4 controller.

Using the Phillips #00 Screwdriver, remove the four 6.0 mm screws securing the rear cover to the controller.
  • Using the Phillips #00 Screwdriver, remove the four 6.0 mm screws securing the rear cover to the controller.

  • Do not forcefully loosen the screws, as it will amount to permanent damage of the threads, making removal impossible.

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Beginning with the left shoulder: Pinch the left shoulder of the controller to introduce an opening. Wedge a plastic opening tool into the opening and slide it up towards the joystick.
  • Beginning with the left shoulder:

    • Pinch the left shoulder of the controller to introduce an opening.

    • Wedge a plastic opening tool into the opening and slide it up towards the joystick.

    • Pull down on the plier to crack open the casing.

  • Repeat these steps for the right shoulder.

Shoulders are where L1/L2/R1/R2 are, not the %#*@ handles. Confusing instructions.

foxhoundunit89 - Reply

Quick tip: Be VERY careful at this step not to dislodge the tiny spring attached to the L2/R2 buttons. While removing the cover, it's easy to pull off either L2/R2 button. Inadvertently pulling off either button will also remove the tiny spring as well. While not too difficult to reassemble, it's not obvious where the spring goes as the spring is almost completely hidden along the side of the button (on the inside).

I just successfully completed analog stick replacements for two controllers. I completed the first repair without any trouble but managed to dislodge (and almost lose) the spring on the second time around. Needless to say, I spent some time trying to figure out where the spring is supposed to go (no photos of this anywhere). By sheer luck, I figured it out on my own. :)

Good luck and take your time--especially the first time!

Michael Whang - Reply

couldn't have posted pics for me? :D

kimsballs -

Golden tip but I would add a thing or two.

Most probably both triggers R1&R2 will stay in lower half of the pad case with springs hanging there.

You must take them of their lower case sockets before assembly and fit them bellow L1&L2

When you feel click when fitting them and spring works like on normal assembled pad you're done.

If thats not the case do not try to assemble lower casing half as triggers will not work properly.

Simon -

if you lost the springs unfortunately, the triggers would still work but it is harder to get to the precise digital press. In other words you will have hard time to create a light press than a hard press.

meaningless -

Wedge a plastic opening tool into the case-splittings and pull down to crack open the casing near the following buttons: Share button Options button
  • Wedge a plastic opening tool into the case-splittings and pull down to crack open the casing near the following buttons:

    • Share button

    • Options button

  • Split the plastic covers of the controller apart, taking note that they will still be attached by circuit board ribbons.

  • Three small pieces are often released from the framework. To prevent loss, maintain a controlled work field.

    • 2 Trigger Springs

    • 1 Grey Reset Button Extension

You can't just pull the casing halves apart. There is a plastic bar that is part of the casing and separates the L1 and R1 buttons from the L2 and R2 buttons. To get this loose, pull the casing outward perpendicular to the L and R buttons until you can slide the L2 and R2 buttons from behind the plastic bar.

dzturbd - Reply

SO yesterday replaced the thumb stick on my controller, and now the R2 button is stuck, know any way to remedy this?

ScootsMcgoots -

I know you put a warning, but I lost the grey reset button extension. Any idea where to get a replacement part?

miamiman77 - Reply

Hey, not even sure when you wrote this, but wanted to share my solution for this problem. I lost one of my reset button rubber pieces when I was doing a different repair, and found that a standard bamboo skewer is just about the perfect diameter to function as a replacement. Just cut it to the proper length and you should be able to get it in there and get your reset functionality back.

tcbrekke -

You don't really need it. A long paper clip will work fine.

Ron Smith - Reply

I've removed and changed all buttons all seemed ok but now the options and share button don't work, as in when I pressed them down there is no longer a click (bounce) I'm certain it's back in the correct place and I don't think they can be put the wrong way up, does anyone have any advice please :)

Rachel - Reply

My share button stopped 'clicking'. When I stripped the controller down I noticed a small copper coloured dimple on the motherboard was depressed instead of proud like the one for the options button. With bluetack I was able to pull it out but each time I tested it with my finger it clicked once and stayed depressed. I don't think there is a permanent solution to this as it's probably metal fatigue or similar so i put a tiny bit of blue tack overy the dimple so the plunger could push that bit further and hopefully pull it out each time. Seems to work as I reassemble the controller. Fingers crossed it holds out a while! I'd love to know if someone else had a different solution.

The5HD -

Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Detach the motherboard ribbon connecting the two sides of the controller by using your fingers. After the two halves are separated, place the top of the controller off to the side. After the two halves are separated, place the top of the controller off to the side.
  • Detach the motherboard ribbon connecting the two sides of the controller by using your fingers.

  • After the two halves are separated, place the top of the controller off to the side.

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Remove the two screws holding the sub-assembly together. Then use the blunt forceps to grab the 2 inch black plastic connector labeled in the picture with the red box. Use the blunt forceps to grab the 2 inch white piece of plastic labeled with the orange box. Use the blunt forceps to grab the 2 inch white piece of plastic labeled with the orange box.
  • Remove the two screws holding the sub-assembly together. Then use the blunt forceps to grab the 2 inch black plastic connector labeled in the picture with the red box.

  • Use the blunt forceps to grab the 2 inch white piece of plastic labeled with the orange box.

This is quite different in the latest (JDM-030) versions of the controller. The sub-assembly now clips in, there are no screws, and the black plastic connector is completely absent. The circuit board is also clipped in, no screws.

marcusharvey - Reply

With the clear piece of plastic pushed in, take the transparent white piece out from the top of the controller. Keep the clear plastic piece on the controller, but keep it pushed down to provide room for charger port replacement. Use the Philips #00 Screwdriver to unscrew the two 4.0 mm screws that attach the charging port to the rear cover.
  • With the clear piece of plastic pushed in, take the transparent white piece out from the top of the controller.

    • Keep the clear plastic piece on the controller, but keep it pushed down to provide room for charger port replacement.

  • Use the Philips #00 Screwdriver to unscrew the two 4.0 mm screws that attach the charging port to the rear cover.

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With the blunt forceps remove the top part of the black tape connecting the charging port to the plastic portion of the controller. Grab the PCB of the charging port from the side and pull upwards slowly to remove from the controller. Do NOT pull the blue PCB rapidly upwards; instead move the piece side to side to create some free space between the controller and PCB.
  • With the blunt forceps remove the top part of the black tape connecting the charging port to the plastic portion of the controller.

  • Grab the PCB of the charging port from the side and pull upwards slowly to remove from the controller.

    • Do NOT pull the blue PCB rapidly upwards; instead move the piece side to side to create some free space between the controller and PCB.

I have tryed all of this , changed chargers 7× , changed the charging port & still nothing , do you know why & how could I fix it plz , wey thats if its possible lol but tbf I think its going two be best I buy a second hand pad of ebay or go get another original 1 from shop #Sick #HoleInPocketOnesAgain

Adam Robson - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Bijan Vakilifathi

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20 Comments

Where can i get the USB charger part from? mine is damaged so the lightbar and charger doesnt work but it will still connect to my PS4 until the battery runs out.

Matthew - Reply

Did you get it repaired? I need help with mine

Ken Wood -

Where can you get a new DualShock 4 Charging Port Replacement?

Tony - Reply

Have you found them?

jee -

Looking for a new charging port .?

Scott Ruskay - Reply

I cant find charging ports anywhere. . This is becoming a lost cause

jee -

Placed an order with Morbidstix for the charging port. The part was on backorder for four weeks, then Morbidstix refunded my money. It looks like Sony donuts want us fixing our own controllers I guess.

ifixit is out of stock as well.

Nothing on Amazon or Ebay either.

Does anybody know where I can find one of these dual shock 4 charging assemblies?

Nick Hochuli - Reply

my controller war charging until I broke the Mico usb port so I purchased a new one and I can get it to charge at all anytime advice? I've reset it put in a new ribbon and double checked the battery. My controller lights up it just won't charge.

Alan Kane - Reply

My ps4 controller doesn't connect to my ps4 it's says too many usbs are connected

osmanabu66 - Reply

I took apart my controller but the PCB doesnt look like either gen 1 or gen 2 is there a gen 3?

Ray - Reply

Can I charge my P's4 controller with broken socket?

Cristhian Kaiser - Reply

How do I know if I have first gen or second gen? Amazon has the charging ports for sale right now and I need two. My 4 year old tends to force the cable in when the battery is dead and he is mad. :)

Guess I could open one up and look inside. But want to ask anyways. Thanks.

seangardner - Reply

I love ifixit. I have used it numerous occasions. I am not sure why someone would pay $42 to fix a controller issue that may or may not work and you can get a brand new on online for $46.99. I know it's what you guys do and I love it. I just thought I would add my two cents. Thanks.

daniel be - Reply

when replacing the charge port you will need the model/gen number that it is on the part that you will be replacing. mine was JDS-030. disassemble the controller to get to the port and then order the part you need based on the part number and part itself since they are different in size.

Oscar C - Reply

The headphone jack has snaped off inside the dualshock controller of my ps4, tryed a few things off youtube put did not work. can it be repaired or is it time to buy a new one???

JOHANNA COONEY - Reply

How do you figure out which usb replacement to buy without opening the controller?

randy barber - Reply

I have changed the charger port on my PS4 pad and I have also put a new battery in the remote and it is still not showing the orange charge light don't know what else to try any ideas?

thanks.

Chris - Reply

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