Introduction

Seeing as there aren't any good guides online for the Canon 5D Mk III disassembly, I decided to make one that would allow me to get to the main PCB. I have fixed about a dozen of these in the past two years.

The 5D Mk III has been around since 2012, is a workhorse DSLR in the Canon lineup of cameras, and yet, no detailed guide exists. Hopefully, this one will help you to navigate well enough to delve into the rest of the camera parts as well.

First things first, remove all the rubber hand grips from around the camera to have access to all external screws. Don't worry, these can be put back without any loss of stickiness.
  • First things first, remove all the rubber hand grips from around the camera to have access to all external screws. Don't worry, these can be put back without any loss of stickiness.

  • Remove the plastic around the viewfinder by squeezing the sides and lifting towards the top of the camera.

Add Comment

Once that's removed, you will see 4 screws that need to be removed.
  • Once that's removed, you will see 4 screws that need to be removed.

  • The top screws are a different size from the bottom screws, so keep the top separate from the bottom.

  • Before you proceed, be sure to label exactly where each screw you remove should go. You'll notice the plastic container near the top of the picture. There are 5 more like it with tape labels stating where the screws go. There are a lot of different sizes holding this camera together and meticulous planning is necessary. This is very important!

Add Comment

Next, remove the silver screw.
  • Next, remove the silver screw.

  • Then the two black screws.

Add Comment

Turn the camera so the bottom is now on top and take out the three screws holding on the bottom of the back plate.
  • Turn the camera so the bottom is now on top and take out the three screws holding on the bottom of the back plate.

    • One of the screws is just outside my picture. It's indicated here by an arrow.

Add Comment

This screw needs to be removed next. This is what holds the left side of the entire back plate to the camera and if not removed will cause a major bend in the internal bracket. Remove this silver screw next but keep it separate from the previous one.
  • This screw needs to be removed next. This is what holds the left side of the entire back plate to the camera and if not removed will cause a major bend in the internal bracket.

  • Remove this silver screw next but keep it separate from the previous one.

  • This screw holds in the battery. Must be removed before the next one.

  • Last screw holding in this side plate. Removing this entire side plate will allow the main pcb to be removed easier later on. You can leave the side plate intact for now and come back to these screws later if you'd like.

Add Comment

You can now lift straight up on the back plate and separate it from the body. Be careful to raise it gently because on the left side it is still connected with a ribbon cable to the main pcb. There is also a metal bracket that drives straight down into the body on the upper left. Be careful to lift straight up on the back plate until this is completely outside of the main body, then flip the whole back plate over to the left so you can reach the ribbon cable connector underneath.
  • You can now lift straight up on the back plate and separate it from the body. Be careful to raise it gently because on the left side it is still connected with a ribbon cable to the main pcb.

  • There is also a metal bracket that drives straight down into the body on the upper left. Be careful to lift straight up on the back plate until this is completely outside of the main body, then flip the whole back plate over to the left so you can reach the ribbon cable connector underneath.

  • This is a snap on connector that can be gently pried up with a small flat head screw driver or a thumbnail.

Add Comment

Remove these four screws from the bottom plate. Remove this screw from underneath the battery door. Remove this screw from the bottom front right. If you haven't removed the rubber grip material yet, now's the time to just take it off.
  • Remove these four screws from the bottom plate.

  • Remove this screw from underneath the battery door.

  • Remove this screw from the bottom front right. If you haven't removed the rubber grip material yet, now's the time to just take it off.

Add Comment

Remove this screw. Finish by removing this silver screw. You can remove the battery door at any time if you feel it's in your way. It's not necessary, but it may help. There's a small raised black ridge that can be slid to one side to remove the battery door.
  • Remove this screw.

  • Finish by removing this silver screw.

    • You can remove the battery door at any time if you feel it's in your way. It's not necessary, but it may help. There's a small raised black ridge that can be slid to one side to remove the battery door.

  • It's a tight fit, but wiggle the plate gently and pull straight up and out from the camera body to remove the bottom plate.

Add Comment

The reason we remove the bottom plate is so we can access this adhesive black covering. It starts underneath the camera and wraps all the around to the top. We won't be removing the top of the camera for this procedure. Gently pry this adhesive covering up until it is off of the main board at the back of the camera and drape it over the top of the camera. I always try to do this step without cutting or ripping the covering.
  • The reason we remove the bottom plate is so we can access this adhesive black covering. It starts underneath the camera and wraps all the around to the top. We won't be removing the top of the camera for this procedure.

  • Gently pry this adhesive covering up until it is off of the main board at the back of the camera and drape it over the top of the camera. I always try to do this step without cutting or ripping the covering.

Add Comment

From this point on, be very careful. We will be removing or dislodging internal connectors that may be damaged if not careful and will impact the camera functions if not seated correctly when put back together. First, label the two ribbon connectors with top and bottom and be sure which side attaches to the main board and which side attaches to the secondary board on the right. This is important because these connectors only go on one way and can not be switched.
  • From this point on, be very careful. We will be removing or dislodging internal connectors that may be damaged if not careful and will impact the camera functions if not seated correctly when put back together.

  • First, label the two ribbon connectors with top and bottom and be sure which side attaches to the main board and which side attaches to the secondary board on the right. This is important because these connectors only go on one way and can not be switched.

  • Next, remove each connector like you did earlier with your nail or a small flat screwdriver.

  • Using that same small flat screwdriver, you will need to remove these two connectors from underneath the main pcb. Pry gently from each end of the connectors until they come loose.

  • Using some tweezers or a very small set of needle nose pliers, gently remove these two connectors from the top left of the main pcb. Be careful not to pull on the wires, ONLY the white connector ends to pull them out.

Add Comment

These connectors have very small hinged flaps that must be lifted to let loose of the thin ribbon cables they're holding. The flaps can be damaged very easily if not careful! Very gently use a dental pick or your nail to pry them upwards to release the tension on the cables underneath. These ribbon cables may be gently pulled from the connectors with a small set of needle nose pliers. The one at the top of the board has a hole in the cable, so something very small like a tooth pick can fit in here to help pull the cable free.
  • These connectors have very small hinged flaps that must be lifted to let loose of the thin ribbon cables they're holding.

    • The flaps can be damaged very easily if not careful! Very gently use a dental pick or your nail to pry them upwards to release the tension on the cables underneath.

  • These ribbon cables may be gently pulled from the connectors with a small set of needle nose pliers. The one at the top of the board has a hole in the cable, so something very small like a tooth pick can fit in here to help pull the cable free.

  • This connector must be pried up with extreme caution. You absolutely can not pull on the wires leading into the connector as they are extremely delicate and will break easily. Using a small flat head screwdriver, pry up on either end very gently until the connector pops loose.

  • Underneath that connector is another that will need pried up. This one is another ribbon cable similar to the ones we've previously lifted with a small flat screwdriver.

  • Remove these three screws. They are all the same size.

  • Finally, remove this screw. It's a different size from the other three, so keep it separate.

Add Comment

If you hadn't removed the side media port plate earlier, now is the time. This allows full access to the side of the board.
  • If you hadn't removed the side media port plate earlier, now is the time. This allows full access to the side of the board.

  • Now you can remove the main pcb from the camera body and replace if necessary.

  • To put back together, do all of these steps in reverse order.

Add Comment

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

4 other people completed this guide.

Attached Documents

Matthew Zeller

Member since: 09/23/2015

449 Reputation

2 Guides authored

9 Comments

Thank you for post,matthew!

Cloud you tell me what which steps could be pass if i want to remove my 5D Mark III's top cover? my top LCD was broken with tripods sadly.i want to fixit by myself.

Look forward to your suggestions!

squallgold - Reply

Hello, how do I purchase the main board...? Do you have a dealer I can buy from? Thanks alot

Cineview Motion Pictures - Reply

Hi mate I'm in Australia and I got mine from the USA on Ebay for $350AUD delivered

Nathan Tanner -

Thank you so much for this guide. Very helpful. I had an issue with my 5d m3 not powering up, was told by a repairer in a qoute that they tested the main PCB and it was faulty. I swapped the PCB for a new one myself which made no difference - camera was still a brick.

Investigating on the web I found that when this issue occured most people would report that the DC/DC PCB was replaced, so I swapped this PCB and the camera works perfectly.

To anyone having this 'no power' issue I would recommend changing the DC/DC PCB FIRST and then the main PCB if unsuccessful.

The costs for me were:

Main PCB $350 - Ebay

DC/DC PCB $80 - Ebay

Shipping to service center and quote $50

Quote for main PCB replacement $815 (I rejected the repairs and it myself)

I am confident that the main PCB was ok, but I'm not changing it back to find out!

Good luck and be careful with the scews! The heads strip very easily, use the proper screw driver, keep pressure on them and dont over tighten!

Nathan Tanner - Reply

Thank you for this guide mate, it is very helpful. Also I have a request, Can you post how to remove Canon 5D Mark III's top cover? My 5D dropped and the top cover cracked also its LCD is broken. I have ordered a new replacement 5D top cover and I am looking to repair it by myself. Looking forward to get your help.

dean.jems - Reply

There is an attached file with the parts in exploded diagram view. I believe it's page 3 that will show you the screws necessary to remove. I have only needed to remove the top cover once before and it wasn't difficult. Keep in mind that the ribbon cables on the right may be attached to the top. I can't honestly remember. As with most cameras, remove the top cover slowly and keep a sharp eye for anything still connected.

Matthew Zeller -

So refreshing to know that there are good and knowledgeable people out there willing to share info with the rest of the world . Thanks guys and stay blessed .

Yaw Asamoah - Reply

Hey Nathan! My 5DM3 just went belly up today. No power, at all. I was happy to find your comment about the DC/DC PCB. Where is this part located in the camera. I'm guessing it's on the opposite side of the main PCB? Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge on this.

Best ~ MJ

mikejwalls - Reply

Doh! Scratch that Nathan. Just saw the parts PDF. (Sorry. It's been a long day of maintaining my composure when your "A" camera turns into a door stop.) Still, thanks of the directions to eBay and what to look for! Best ~ MJ

mikejwalls - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 12

Past 7 Days: 66

Past 30 Days: 280

All Time: 1,511