What you need
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Lift the left earpad (labeled L) straight up and remove it.
Ask FixBot
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Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or a small, straightened paperclip into the hole on the top edge of the right ear cup (labeled L).
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Push down with your tool and pull the headband connector straight out of its socket.
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Set the left ear cup down on a soft, clean cloth to prevent scratches and help stabilize the cup during your repair.
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Use a P5 pentalobe screwdriver to turn (not remove) the four speaker housing screws to the unlocked position:
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Turn the top left and bottom right screws counterclockwise.
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Turn the top right and bottom left screws clockwise.
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Tool used on this step:iOpener$14.95
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Option 1: Apply a few drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (>90%) in the gap around the perimeter of the speaker housing. Wait one minute to allow the alcohol to soften the adhesive.
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Option 2: Heat the speaker housing with an iOpener or hair dryer. Focus the heat around the perimeter, applying small amounts for short periods of time.
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Tool used on this step:iSesamo Opening Tool$10.99
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Insert the flat side of your opening tool into the gap between the right side of the speaker housing and the lip of the ear cup (opposite the L marking).
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Pry up the speaker housing until you can grip it with your fingers, applying constant pressure to allow the adhesive to separate.
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Lift the speaker housing out of the ear cup to fully separate the remaining adhesive.
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Flip the housing over the side of the cup and prop it up so you can access the cable.
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Tool used on this step:FixMat$36.95
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Remove the four screws securing the cable cover:
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One 7.5 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screw
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Three 1.7 mm‑long Torx Plus 1IP screws
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Use tweezers to slightly lift the cover and slide it towards the center of the ear cup to remove it.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker housing press connector.
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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove three speaker driver screws:
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Two 6.0 mm‑long screws
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One 6.0 mm‑long screw that's slightly thicker than the other two
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Remove the 5.1 mm‑long standoff screw using one of the two methods below:
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Option 1: Stick a small flathead screwdriver into one of the four notches on top of the screw and use it to slowly turn the screw.
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Option 2: Use a Torq-Set 6 screwdriver to remove the screw, applying constant downward force to avoid damaging the screw.
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Lift the right edge of the speaker and remove it, being careful not to touch the diaphragm.
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Remove the two Bluetooth board connector cover screws:
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One 7.5 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screw
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One 1.7 mm‑long Torx Plus 1IP screw
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Use tweezers to slightly lift the cover and slide it towards the center of the ear cup to remove it.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the press connector from under the cover you just removed.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the press connector on the other end of the board.
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Slide one arm of your angled tweezers under the metal neck of the coaxial connector (next to the one from the previous step) and lift straight up to disconnect it.
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Use the point of a spudger to gently pull the copper hinge cable (in plastic tubing) out of its clip.
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Use a Torx Plus 1IP screwdriver to remove the 3.0 mm‑long screw securing the Bluetooth board.
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Stick the point of a spudger into the baord's screw hole near the hinge and pull the board towards the center of the ear cup.
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Use your fingers to flip the board over the side so you can access the remaining connector.
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Use the point of a spudger to press on alternating sides of the sliding connector tabs to "walk" it out of the socket.
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