Backstitch on a Loose Hem

Introduction

This guide demonstrates how to complete a hand sewn backstitch to repair a loose hem on a pair of woven cotton shorts. This technique is incredibly versatile and can be used on most seams, hems, and patches.

Hand sewn repairs are a fun and effective way to extend the life of gear at home. DIY repairs won't void the Patagonia warranty—they're actually encouraged!

Patagonia items can also be taken in to a local retail store for repair evaluation or sent in to Patagonia through their mail-in repair service.

Let's get fixing!

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What you need

Step 1 Intro to the backstitch

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Intro to the backstitch: step 1, image 1 of 2

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Intro to the backstitch: step 1, image 2 of 2

The backstitch is one of the strongest hand sewing stitches.
Structure - This technique forms a solid line of stitches on the fabric surface while creating a double-length stitch on the backside.
Repair Use - Commonly used in hand sewn repairs as a substitute for machine stitching. Its looping structure provides strength, stability, and slight elasticity when pulled.

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Step 2 Assess the damage

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Assess the damage: step 2, image 1 of 3

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Assess the damage: step 2, image 2 of 3

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Assess the damage: step 2, image 3 of 3

Locate the area with missing stitching and trim away any loose or hanging threads.
Mark the new stitch line with chalk or a heat-erasable pen.
If stitch holes from the previous stitching are visible, these can be used as a guide for the new stitch line.
If the opening is larger than a few inches, use pins or binder clips to secure the pieces of fabric together while sewing.

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Step 3 Start the stitch

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Start the stitch: step 3, image 1 of 3

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Start the stitch: step 3, image 2 of 3

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Start the stitch: step 3, image 3 of 3

Thread the needle with a length of thread approximately 24 inches (~61 cm) long and tie a knot at one end of the thread. For more details see Needles and Thread.
The pictured repair uses contrast thread for visibility, but matching thread will make this repair almost invisible.
From the backside of the seam, pierce the needle through to the front, overlapping any existing stitching by at least 1/2 inch (~13 mm).
If the seam doesn't have a front and backside, choose either.
Pull the thread through until the knot lies flush against the fabric.

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Step 4 Make the backstitch

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Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: step 4, image 2 of 3

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: step 4, image 3 of 3

From the front side, pierce the seam one stitch length behind the point where the thread emerges, moving in the opposite direction of the stitching path.
Pull needle and thread through to the backside.

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Step 5 Make the backstitch

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Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: step 5, image 2 of 3

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: step 5, image 3 of 3

From the backside, pierce the seam two stitch lengths forward, moving in the direction of the stitching path.
Pull the needle and thread through to the front side.
Repeat steps 4 and 5 to create a continuous backstitch along the marked seam line.

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Step 6 Stitch in one movement

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Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Stitch in one movement: step 6, image 2 of 3

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Stitch in one movement: step 6, image 3 of 3

To backstitch without repeatedly flipping the fabric, insert the needle into the seam one stitch length behind the current position and guide it to exit one stitch length forward.
The working thread should lie in the middle of the needle's entry and exit points.
Pull the thread through to secure the stitch.
This method is quicker but more prone to tangling on the backside. Periodically check that the thread is pulling through smoothly.

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Step 7 Tie off the thread

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Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Tie off the thread: step 7, image 2 of 3

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Tie off the thread: step 7, image 3 of 3

Continue until the original stitch has been overlapped by at least 1/2 inch (13 mm) and finish with the needle on the backside.
Without pulling the needle all the way through, begin making a small stitch on the backside of the fabric.
Wrap the working thread around the needle point three times.
Pull the needle through the fabric and loops of thread. The wrapped thread will create a knot that lies flush with the fabric.
For a more detailed explanation see Knot Thread to the Fabric (2 Ways).

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Step 8 Trim the thread

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Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Trim the thread: step 8, image 2 of 3

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Trim the thread: step 8, image 3 of 3

Ensure the knot is secure, then snip away excess thread.

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Step 9 Quality check

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Quality check: step 9, image 1 of 1

Ensure the stitch securely closes the seam and can withstand tension.
Add additional lines of stitching if necessary.

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Step 10 Troubleshooting

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Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Troubleshooting: step 10, image 2 of 3

Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Troubleshooting: step 10, image 3 of 3

TANGLED THREAD: To address tangles or knots in the thread:
Start by using the tip of the needle to work the knot loose.
If this fails, gently tug on either end of the thread to pull out the knot.
If this method is also unsuccessful, cut the thread and start a new stitch, overlapping previous stitches by at least 1/2 inch (~13 mm).
Ensure any knot is cut out completely.