Introduction

Outline what you are going to teach someone how to do.

Image 1/2: There are a few plastic clips, but it shouldn't be too difficult to remove. Image 2/2: There are a few plastic clips, but it shouldn't be too difficult to remove.
  • Insert a spudger or a your fingernail in the slit in the rear case on the right to separate the phone from the case.

  • There are a few plastic clips, but it shouldn't be too difficult to remove.

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Image 1/1:
  • Slide out the SIM card and SD card (if applicable)

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the battery from the phone by using a spudger near the bottom.

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Image 1/1: There are only 8 pictured, but there are also four at the bottom.
  • Remove 12 Phillips screws from the phone.

    • There are only 8 pictured, but there are also four at the bottom.

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Image 1/3: If the rubber camera piece falls out, put it back in the square where the rear camera sits. Image 2/3: If the rubber camera piece falls out, put it back in the square where the rear camera sits. Image 3/3: If the rubber camera piece falls out, put it back in the square where the rear camera sits.
  • Remove the plastic covering after taking out the screws. It should come out relatively easily.

  • If the rubber camera piece falls out, put it back in the square where the rear camera sits.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a spudger swing open the white "door" and use tweezer to pull out the connector.

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Image 1/1:
  • Use a spudger to pop off the loudspeaker. It is held to the case by a little adhesive.

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Image 1/1: Do not remove the vibration motor entirely since it is soldered to the logic board.
  • Pick up the vibration motor out of its plastic housing.

  • Do not remove the vibration motor entirely since it is soldered to the logic board.

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Image 1/3: You want to grab the entire logic board, including the skinny piece that extends down the right to the micro-USB port. Image 2/3: You want to grab the entire logic board, including the skinny piece that extends down the right to the micro-USB port. Image 3/3: You want to grab the entire logic board, including the skinny piece that extends down the right to the micro-USB port.
  • There are two plastic clips that hold the logic board down. Push one out of the way and grasp the logic board to pull it out.

  • You want to grab the entire logic board, including the skinny piece that extends down the right to the micro-USB port.

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Image 1/1:
  • If your new display includes the plastic bezel, you can stop here and begin transferring everything over. If it doesn't, please continue.

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Image 1/1: There is a good amount of adhesive along the top of the display.
  • Insert your spudger, perhaps an iSesamo, to the top right of the display. You will want to slide it between the glass and the plastic bezel.

  • There is a good amount of adhesive along the top of the display.

  • Replace the spudger with a guitar pic to hold its place.

  • Be careful how you insert the spudger, though, since there is a cable that connects the display to the logic board between the ear speaker and rear camera hole.

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Image 1/1: In the picture shown, I originally put the iSesamo in the LCD which caused the damage to the right. The guitar pics are under the LCD after I corrected my movement.
  • Using the spudger (or iSesamo) in a saw-like motion, work your way down the right side of the display. Make sure you put the tool under the LCD and not in it.

  • In the picture shown, I originally put the iSesamo in the LCD which caused the damage to the right. The guitar pics are under the LCD after I corrected my movement.

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Image 1/1: The yellow arrow shows where the tool would be if it was above the LCD.
  • Make sure the tool you're using is under the LCD and not above it. The tool pictured it under it.

  • The yellow arrow shows where the tool would be if it was above the LCD.

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Image 1/2: There is a lot of adhesive on the top, but there is not much on the sides and on the bottom. Image 2/2: Make sure you slide the top flex cable through the hole before you separate the display (not pictured).
  • Begin to separate the glass display with LCD from the plastic frame.

  • There is a lot of adhesive on the top, but there is not much on the sides and on the bottom.

  • Make sure you slide the top flex cable through the hole before you separate the display (not pictured).

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Image 1/1: When installing the new display, prebend the flex cables and make sure they fit where they are supposed it. This will remind you of the iPhone 4/4s screen repair if you have ever done it.
  • Completely separate the glass display with LCD from the plastic frame.

  • When installing the new display, prebend the flex cables and make sure they fit where they are supposed it. This will remind you of the iPhone 4/4s screen repair if you have ever done it.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

4 other people completed this guide.

Kevin Stuckey

Member since: 01/11/2015

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3 Comments

You forgot to mention replacing the double-sided tape needed to hold the screen in for screens that do not come inserted in the plastic bezel already. You must remove all of the old tape first and then add the new tape into the plastic bezel that holds the screen in before placing the screen into it. This is an integral and obvious part of the repair. I used "Lopurs 1mm 3M Red Double Sided Adhesive Sticker Tape" ordered from Amazon.

anthony.cavalea - Reply

Thanks for the tip! My display included it so I didn't think about it. Sorry I missed it.

Kevin Stuckey -

Opened mine up to dry after it went for a swim in the sink. Any recommendations for replacing what appears to be a thermal pad. It disintegrated when I pulled the mainboard away from the screen. The pad is visible in Step 10. Could I get away with some Arctic Silver 5 and gauze, or should I look into a specific thermal pad?

Philip Kunz - Reply

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