Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • In order to replace the battery you must completely dissemble the ear piece with the mic. First, remove the foam cushions from the earpiece. Do this by simply pulling the foam away from the earpiece. This will expose 4 screws. Next Remove these 4 screws with a small Phillips head screw driver.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Once the black, plastic cover is removed, proceed to remove the two marked visible screws. Next, peel back the foam in the top left and right corners of the speaker (During reassembly this will need to be re-glued.) Once the screws are exposed, remove them with the same screwdriver.

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Image 1/2: Remove the 4 visible screws (Be sure to use caution.) These screws remove the faceplate on the outside of the headset. Image 2/2: Remove the 4 visible screws (Be sure to use caution.) These screws remove the faceplate on the outside of the headset.
  • Once the all the screws have been removed, gently fold the speaker over to expose the internals of the earpiece. Be sure to use caution and avoid breaking wires.

  • Remove the 4 visible screws (Be sure to use caution.) These screws remove the faceplate on the outside of the headset.

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Image 1/2: To replace the battery, use a soldering iron and disconnect the wires from the old battery while reconnecting them to the new one (Note:The battery is glued in the case.) Image 2/2: To replace the battery, use a soldering iron and disconnect the wires from the old battery while reconnecting them to the new one (Note:The battery is glued in the case.)
  • Once all the screws have been removed, turn the earpiece over. Then, rotate the microphone and cover plate away from the battery housing (This will expose the battery.)

  • To replace the battery, use a soldering iron and disconnect the wires from the old battery while reconnecting them to the new one (Note:The battery is glued in the case.)

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

16 other people completed this guide.

Nicholas Eriksen

Member since: 10/28/2015

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3 Guides authored


UMass Dartmouth, Team 2-5, Shastany Fall 2015 Member of UMass Dartmouth, Team 2-5, Shastany Fall 2015


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4 Guides authored


Could you post the dimensions of the battery itself? Seems like it's hard to find one that may or may not fit. That or could you recommend where to get a battery?

lolubad umad - Reply

i'd also like to know where to source the battery

drbob44 - Reply

Search for part no: 603443 on Ebay - ~$10 or buy one from Astro for $75

mattgorringe - Reply

So, which battery is the best replacement for the original? Is it possible to put some bigger batteries inside with some modding?

Rene Siekmann - Reply

Battery sizes are mAH, just by a 900 or more and that should do the trick. The actual size of the battery must be identical for a perfect fit and confortable headsets. Just make sure you get the correct voltage and size.

The battery comes with a cable, instead of soldering, can I tie those cables in? Also, what is the best way to remove and reattach foam cushions without damaging them?

cpaalvarez - Reply

just peel off the foam from the side . i got it started by using my finger nail . i would solder in the stuff. not hard just get hot pull wire leave puddle of solder on board . go to next wire , next , then pull battery out , then replace with new . then feed wire thru and heat each puddle until you can place wire in hold for a minute .pull away with solder gun let cool done.

this is the battery you want

dillonhighsmith -

Used this is as guideline, worked nicely, thanks!

csfan13 - Reply

Ok guide, First... watch a few videos on disassembly in addition to this tut. Second... you only need to peel the top third of the ear foam off to expose the two screws on that section. (don't need to take the whole foam piece off) Third... there are 4 screws to take out when the speaker is off to be able to pivot the mic panel... not 6. (4 corners top right, top left under color wire, and bottom left and right under the board access through hole in board no the screws holding the board on, the middle board screw is for the mic and you don't need to remove.) Finally, it is a bit confusing... but the battery comes with wires and I soldered the wires to the board and not to the battery... I think that is obvious... but maybe not to some.

But kudos to Dillon for the battery on Ebay. I used it and it works perfectly. takes a month to get here... but for 8 bucks... can't beat it.

Also thanks for the original poster. This guide helped me in a few key places and gave me the courage to attempt!

bigalsworth1 - Reply

many thanks for posting this repair manual.

Marco Schoch - Reply

Set heating element on soldering iron to 600 F and was able to remove existing battery leads as well as re-insert the new battery's leads without needing to use additional solder. As "bigalsworth1" mentions this happens on the circuit board not directly on the battery. The photos are useful for remembering which order the colored wires go. I also successfully used the eBay recommendation from "dillonhighsmith"

Steve Castellotti - Reply

Hi there love your work in posting this up

I have replaced the bat in my headset now and it seems to work fine but when I plug it into the base to charge it takes the power out of the base and it stops working? Could it be that the replacement bat is a higher mHa 900 instead of the 800 that the original was? I think my re soldering is fine as I said everything works 1000 0/0. I have it charging separately now as I have not fully charged the replacement bat as yet.

Daniel - Reply

For those asking about the battery dimensions here you go:

axblackdeathxa - Reply

Hi , can anyone recommend me a site where i can buy this battery in europe? I can't find the correct dimensions/voltage for it and it seems non existent over here

Gavin harvey - Reply

Anyone know what the white wire is for? I noticed the battery in the image has a white white (assume ground?) going to the PCB of the battery, but the images from the battery via ebay only has the black and red wires. Has anyone done this repair to know if there are any issues etc, please help.

Dwayne - Reply

I did a repair on my Gen 1 A50s, replacing the three-wire battery with a two-wire battery from eBay. The third wire was connected to a pad marked "TC", which I left empty. The headset worked until the battery ran out and wouldn't charge. The orange light goes on but it never charges or turns red to indicate a full battery. I think that third pad is necessary to get the battery charging via USB.

jumbledthought -

I also have tried this fix with an eBay battery. First time I just connected the red and the black wires and it worked again until the battery ran out. When charging the orange light comes on but never turns off, which suggests it is not charging properly or even at all?

Took it all apart and soldered everything including the yellow wire (in my case), same issue, doesn't appear to be charging even if left overnight. I have also have tried two different cables but to no avail. I did buy another battery just in case I got a dud, but judging by jumbled's comment something else could be up. Potentially the charging component of the device is now faulty, but I am unsure what to replace if this is the case.

Any ideas? Has anyone else had sucess with replacing the battery?

madjaffa -

The TC lead is supposed to be for a thermistor, where they maintain temperature and control for charging. My battery did not come with a wire but does have a pad. I went and soldered the yellow wire on it. Will see how it works. If not, then I have to pick up other types from ebay that has a 3rd wire soldered already so you know there's a thermistor already attached.

Jackson Szeto -

Hi! One question: could the three wires could be joined to the wires of the new battery and insulate them with thermo-contracting insulation instead of soldering them?

Thank you

Mircea mirciulik - Reply

Nevermind, once opened I saw the cables are to short so I soldered the new battery in place.

Mircea mirciulik -

Very awesome guide. I swapped the battery and it's charging. Will see how well it works! One thing to note, batteries I got from online did not have the TC wire. I had to open up the tape wrap to solder the middle wire. There doesn't seem to be any issue so far. As for the padding you pull up to reveal the screws to open the headphone, it worked really well for me having a hook shape tool to grab the edge. The pad pulled up with the adhesive without any tears and I did not have to reapply any glue.

Jackson Szeto - Reply

I have a gen 1 Astro A50. How many battery wires should i be looking for a replacement battery? 2 or 3? Thanks

Zimsa Watkins - Reply

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