Introduction

The EMI filter is set into the device and is behind a few components. Because of this there are many wires surrounding it that are not part of this specific component. Make sure to carefully follow wires and components to make sure that the right parts are being removed.

Image 1/3: Since the display is able to be tilted up and down, we found it useful to prop up the screen up with a styrofoam block in between the screen and the base. Image 2/3: Place the two suction cups on both sides of the top of the screen and make sure to lock them in place. Image 3/3: The glass screen to connected to the rest of the display by small magnets. Lift slowly and the screen will come right off.
  • Lay down the display with screen side up.

  • Since the display is able to be tilted up and down, we found it useful to prop up the screen up with a styrofoam block in between the screen and the base.

  • Place the two suction cups on both sides of the top of the screen and make sure to lock them in place.

  • The glass screen to connected to the rest of the display by small magnets. Lift slowly and the screen will come right off.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Next, unscrew the 4 remaining screws (marked in orange) at the bottom of the display with your Phillips #00 Screwdriver. Image 2/3: Next, unscrew the 4 remaining screws (marked in orange) at the bottom of the display with your Phillips #00 Screwdriver. Image 3/3: Next, unscrew the 4 remaining screws (marked in orange) at the bottom of the display with your Phillips #00 Screwdriver.
  • Unscrew the 12 screws (marked in red) around the side edges and the top of the LCD with the TR 10 Screwdriver.

  • Next, unscrew the 4 remaining screws (marked in orange) at the bottom of the display with your Phillips #00 Screwdriver.

The screws marked in orange don't need to be removed, all they do is hold the magnets on the LCD.

Garrett Mace - Reply

Image 1/2: There are four wires that connect the LCD to the rest of the components. Make sure not to pull hard and break any of the wires. Image 2/2: There are four wires that connect the LCD to the rest of the components. Make sure not to pull hard and break any of the wires.
  • Slowly lift the LCD out from its placement and tilt it upwards.

  • There are four wires that connect the LCD to the rest of the components. Make sure not to pull hard and break any of the wires.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Next, grab onto the connector and slowly pull it from the socket in the logic board. Image 2/3: Next, grab onto the connector and slowly pull it from the socket in the logic board. Image 3/3: Next, grab onto the connector and slowly pull it from the socket in the logic board.
  • For the next connector, which is right next to the previous wire, there is a piece of tape that is sealing it to the board. Remove this first.

  • Next, grab onto the connector and slowly pull it from the socket in the logic board.

What is this connector for?

pdspanagel - Reply

I imagine this connector is going to be for display data (i.e. LCD data).

Scott Havard - Reply

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • For the last wire connecting to the LCD, use your TR 10 Screwdriver to remove the screw.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • The LCD has now been fully disconnected from the casing and can be repaired/replaced!

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Follow the wires coming out of the bottom of the Power adapter off to the left. Image 2/2: Take the tweezers and remove the piece of tape holding the wires to the casing.
  • You should now see the AC Power adapter right in the middle of the device (although held in by a few other components).

  • Follow the wires coming out of the bottom of the Power adapter off to the left.

  • Take the tweezers and remove the piece of tape holding the wires to the casing.

  • There is only one connector that needs to be taken out (even though there are two right next to each other!).

  • Grab the connector from the bottom and pull it carefully from its corresponding socket.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Next, remove the piece of electrical tape that is holding wires into the casing connecting to the power adapter.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Use the TR 10 screwdriver to remove the four screws! Image 2/3: Use the TR 10 screwdriver to remove the four screws! Image 3/3: Use the TR 10 screwdriver to remove the four screws!
  • The surrounding speaker component (the black box) around the power adapter need to be removed.

  • Use the TR 10 screwdriver to remove the four screws!

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Using tweezers, remove the silver tape that is at the top of the adapter. Image 2/3: Using tweezers, remove the silver tape that is at the top of the adapter. Image 3/3: Using tweezers, remove the silver tape that is at the top of the adapter.
  • Now that the middle speaker is out of the way, the power adapter is easily accessible.

  • Using tweezers, remove the silver tape that is at the top of the adapter.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: The screw that holds in both the AC adapter and a wire that is connected to it is a different size and should be kept identifiable from the other two screws. Image 2/3: The green and yellow wire that was held in by the different screw is tucked behind another component. To get it out, squeeze it behind the black wire and the power adapter will be able to be removed from the casing. Image 3/3: The green and yellow wire that was held in by the different screw is tucked behind another component. To get it out, squeeze it behind the black wire and the power adapter will be able to be removed from the casing.
  • The power adapter is connected by three screws. Use the TR 10 screwdriver to remove them.

  • The screw that holds in both the AC adapter and a wire that is connected to it is a different size and should be kept identifiable from the other two screws.

  • The green and yellow wire that was held in by the different screw is tucked behind another component. To get it out, squeeze it behind the black wire and the power adapter will be able to be removed from the casing.

Add Comment

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

6 other people completed this guide.

Calvin Laverty

Member since: 04/14/2015

1,132 Reputation

4 Guides authored

Team

Cal Poly, Team 5-11, Maness Spring 2015 Member of Cal Poly, Team 5-11, Maness Spring 2015

CPSU-MANESS-S15S5G11

4 Members

5 Guides authored

5 Comments

Power adapter? That's the AC EMI filter, right? My power supply looks like this:

http://www.dvwarehouse.com/661-6048-661-...

The EMI filter will never fail... well, maybe a direct lightning strike.

roger - Reply

That is definitely just a filter. The power supply is the big PCB connected to it. One could say this is an EMI filter along with an IEC input connector...this guide is only useful if you want to replace the connector rather than the actual power supply.

Garrett Mace -

So are we saying that this is wrong? anyone? I really need to replace my power supply.

Stewart Sensor - Reply

I replace the all in one lightning and charge cable but it has ended up that the lightning cable only works. I thought I connected everything up fine but which connector would stop the charge cable working?

pdspanagel - Reply

Am I imagining things, or was there once a separate power supply guide? I bought the part, and now I can't seem to find that particular guide.. I had the buzzing sound, and now my display won't even turn on-- do I have to replace both, would you think?

Cory Caplan - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 4

Past 7 Days: 28

Past 30 Days: 124

All Time: 7,382