Introduction

Quite often the screen is the first thing to break on a tablet and the LCD panel is actually what senses the touch of the user as well as displays the images of the screen.

In order to perform this replacement you will need to use heat tools such as either the iOpener or a high heat gun so be aware of how to properly use these tools as well as proper safety gear to prevent injury or damage to the device.

Ensure that your device is turned off. While holding the device firmly, wedge the iFixit Opening Tool into the crease along the outer edge of the device (as shown in the image).
  • Ensure that your device is turned off.

  • While holding the device firmly, wedge the iFixit Opening Tool into the crease along the outer edge of the device (as shown in the image).

  • Slowly, grind the iFixit Opening Tool into the crease along the outer edges of the device until the entire back cover loosens.

  • Then, remove the back cover from the device.

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Pry the speaker from the case using the iFixit Opening Tool. Lift the speaker up from the device to remove the speaker wires from their groove in the case.
  • Pry the speaker from the case using the iFixit Opening Tool.

  • Lift the speaker up from the device to remove the speaker wires from their groove in the case.

  • Be careful not to pull the speaker wires from the motherboard.

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Desolder the speaker wires from the motherboard. iFixit has a helpful guide explaining how to solder and desolder here: How To Solder and Desolder Connections iFixit has a helpful guide explaining how to solder and desolder here: How To Solder and Desolder Connections

This step is completely unnecessary. The cords don't get in the way of the rest of the procedure. Feel free to disregard this step.

Jacob Dayley - Reply

The battery connector is located in the upper left corner of the Amazon Fire battery pack. To disconnect the battery connector, use  angled ESD precision tweezers to lift the cables up and out of their socket. Make sure you pull the battery  connector cables themselves out and not the actual socket.  Doing this step incorrectly could result in  breaking the connector entirely.
  • The battery connector is located in the upper left corner of the Amazon Fire battery pack.

  • To disconnect the battery connector, use angled ESD precision tweezers to lift the cables up and out of their socket.

  • Make sure you pull the battery connector cables themselves out and not the actual socket. Doing this step incorrectly could result in breaking the connector entirely.

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Use a PH0 size Phillips screwdriver head  to unscrew the five 2 mm screws on the motherboard. These screws are circled with red in the given image. Ensure that you keep track of these screws once removed.
  • Use a PH0 size Phillips screwdriver head to unscrew the five 2 mm screws on the motherboard. These screws are circled with red in the given image.

  • Ensure that you keep track of these screws once removed.

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The LCD- Motherboard connector cable has a protective overlay that you must peel back with precision tweezers in order to expose the actual connector. Gently pull down on the connector cable using precision tweezers in order to disconnect the cable. Gently pull down on the connector cable using precision tweezers in order to disconnect the cable.
  • The LCD- Motherboard connector cable has a protective overlay that you must peel back with precision tweezers in order to expose the actual connector.

  • Gently pull down on the connector cable using precision tweezers in order to disconnect the cable.

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  • The LCD Digitizer on the Amazon Fire tablet has a locking cable connector that holds it in place on the motherboard.

  • To remove the cable, use the iFixit Opening Tool to unlock the LCD Digitizer cable connector.

  • Once the wire connector is removed, use the iFixit Opening Tool to pry the entire LCD Digitizer away from the motherboard.

  • Remove any tape that may be covering the connector.

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  • The volume and power buttons must both be repositioned in order to remove the motherboard.

  • To reposition the power and volume buttons, use the iFixit Opening Tool to pull the plastic casing upwards. Then, remove the casing completely.

  • Make sure that both the volume and the power buttons are free from the plastic casing before separating the motherboard from its case.

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The rear facing camera wire connector must be disconnected in order to remove the motherboard. To remove the rear facing wire connector, insert  the iFixit Opening Tool  beneath the connector and wedge it upwards. To remove the rear facing wire connector, insert  the iFixit Opening Tool  beneath the connector and wedge it upwards.
  • The rear facing camera wire connector must be disconnected in order to remove the motherboard.

  • To remove the rear facing wire connector, insert the iFixit Opening Tool beneath the connector and wedge it upwards.

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Position  the iFixit Opening Tool beneath the motherboard and pull upwards to remove the motherboard from its case. Please handle the motherboard with gloves because skin oils can damage the connections on the board.
  • Position the iFixit Opening Tool beneath the motherboard and pull upwards to remove the motherboard from its case.

  • Please handle the motherboard with gloves because skin oils can damage the connections on the board.

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Because heat is required to remove the screen and LCD, it is advisable to remove the battery entirely as well. It is important to be very careful and use little force in this step. Too much force can damage the battery. A damaged battery can lead to an electrical fire or explosion of the battery.
  • Because heat is required to remove the screen and LCD, it is advisable to remove the battery entirely as well.

  • It is important to be very careful and use little force in this step. Too much force can damage the battery. A damaged battery can lead to an electrical fire or explosion of the battery.

  • Carefully and slowly work the iFixit Opening Tool down the edge of the battery pack. Angle the tool to pry it up.

  • When you have successfully lifted the battery pack up on one side or corner, carefully wedge the iFixit Opening Tool under the pack about 1/2" and work around the rest of the sides.

  • Be careful not to bend the battery pack.

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Use a heating tool such as an iOpener or Heat gun around the edges of the Amazon Fire's glass screen. The iOpener may take longer to use. However, a heat gun can warp the plastic if used incorrectly. As you heat the edges, use a separator tool such as a guitar pick  to  lift the glass panel up and hold it up as you work around the device. Do not use a separation tool on the top edge of the device where the front camera would be; the digitizer cable is located in this location and can easily be severed. Instead, work in a U shape until you have 3 sides lifted from the frame
  • Use a heating tool such as an iOpener or Heat gun around the edges of the Amazon Fire's glass screen. The iOpener may take longer to use. However, a heat gun can warp the plastic if used incorrectly.

  • As you heat the edges, use a separator tool such as a guitar pick to lift the glass panel up and hold it up as you work around the device.

  • Do not use a separation tool on the top edge of the device where the front camera would be; the digitizer cable is located in this location and can easily be severed. Instead, work in a U shape until you have 3 sides lifted from the frame

  • Be patient with this step because it can be very time consuming and remember to use proper safety gear when using a heating device.

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Note the digitizer cable coming through to the back as it may be hard to see! Carefully thread this piece through its slot and separate the glass panel from the device frame. If you are simply trying to replace a broken screen, you may stop here in this guide and reverse the steps to reassemble your Amazon Fire. If you are simply trying to replace a broken screen, you may stop here in this guide and reverse the steps to reassemble your Amazon Fire.
  • Note the digitizer cable coming through to the back as it may be hard to see! Carefully thread this piece through its slot and separate the glass panel from the device frame.

  • If you are simply trying to replace a broken screen, you may stop here in this guide and reverse the steps to reassemble your Amazon Fire.

What about the 2 magnets in the plastic frame they came out when pulling out digitizer not sure if they have a specific way of going back in. Help plz

David Miller - Reply

To remove the LCD panel, flip the device over and detach the LCD digitizer cable from the frame if they have become stuck together. You can use  the iFixit Opening Tool to separate the LCD panel from the adhesive and it should come out of place with ease.
  • To remove the LCD panel, flip the device over and detach the LCD digitizer cable from the frame if they have become stuck together.

  • You can use the iFixit Opening Tool to separate the LCD panel from the adhesive and it should come out of place with ease.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Amber Bunch

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15 Comments

So....... what's that Glass panel part number?

Aaron Miller - Reply

Where can I get the Digitizer? It appears to me (from your guide) the screens (Digitizer and LCD) DO in fact, separate. It does seem odd to me, from being in the industry for so long, that the digitizer has a polarizer attached to it. That polarizer is usually adhered to the LCD screen and that usually suggests that the repair part would call for a screen assembly.. Not just a digitizer. Can you attach some more pictures of the digitizer and the connector itself to clarify? Also, If you know where to order the part domestically and can you post a link? Thank you! Great guide BTW.

interstone696 - Reply

If the speaker and wire (twisted red&white) are removed from the case (step 2 above), then you won't need to desolder the connection to the motherboard (step 3 above). Just leave it soldered and remove with motherboard (step 10 above).

Terry Roberts - Reply

....or desolder connection and leave the speaker & wire in the case, if you like to "play with powertools?" ;-)

Terry Roberts - Reply

Why remove the battery? It was by far the most tricky operation and exposed the battery to damage prying it out with a flat tool. Any puncture of the plastic jacket qoulds mean instant death to the battery and if any metal tool in contact, a fire hazard. BTW where do you get a replacement digitized for the 7inch 5th generation Kindle?

graham foulkes - Reply

Ordered mine from here: http://www.ebay.com/usr/guan_lcd took about 2.5 weeks, maybe more. Replaced my digitizer following this guide and the other one on this website. Everything went fine until I turned the tablet back on and I ended up with a rainbow haze over the screen. Screen is responsive like new, but I really can't see anything, Hope I didn't get a defective component

Angello - Reply

The rainbow haze is likely due to leaving the plastic protection from the inside of the replacement screen. It can be difficult to see. I had the same problem but levered up the screen and it was sorted. The screen light is refracted by the plastic coating I assume.

Andy Sampson -

PS: There's foam padding under the original digitizer, the replacement (same serial number) doesn't have the same foam padding, and it does't come with adhesive strips

Angello - Reply

where can i order the lcd screen

Exantus lala - Reply

Do you really have to desolder the speaker wires?

Nocturnal Podcasts - Reply

hi, just changed my cracked screen, I removed all the sticky adhesive glue from the plastic frame and put the new screen down, but sadly what do I need to help keep it in place? the new screen didnt come with any adhesive :( many thanks

mark - Reply

all done to spec, picture looks good but no touch response??

jack-elynch - Reply

Does any one know where the Digitizer can be ordered from (apart from ebay) are Ifixit not going to stock this part? I know Amazon allways change parts and are a nightmare but someone somewhere must have bought the surplus stock from the factory making them? Thanks

James Caza - Reply

So yeah, I never desoldered that baby speaker :) just sticked him on the motherboard while away :D

For the removal of the digitizer, I had no means to heat whatsoever.... but didn't need it;

I got to grab a corner the hacking-way: I melted a 3mm hole on the plastic to get a tool under the screen :) and that was it (if a little smooth jack-like hole doesnt scare you, it's a real shortcut)

Then to get around more easily I added a bit of heat, but... just rubbing the screen with my fingers for 30secs was enough ! (really hot ! ouch !)

Very nice guide anyway, full of good advice !

Truci Lionhertz - Reply

Where can I buy the screen and lcd? I live in the Phil

precyranopa - Reply

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