01. Tools
Last updated on Nov 5, 2026
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Max 4.5Nm for M5 screws on metal to metal assemblies (e.g. joining plate on an extrusion).
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Max 1.5-2Nm for M5 screws on printed part to metal (e.g. y_rod_holder.stl on extrusion).
Ask FixBot
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Small pliers with cutting capabilities
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Hex key 1.5mm for MK2(S) and MK2.5(S) only, not useful for MK3(S).
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Hex key 2mm.
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Hex key 2.5mm. Ball end would be very useful.
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Hex key 3mm.
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Spanner 5.5mm
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Slotted screwdriver #1
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Having a quality square will help you to build the Bear precisely. We recommend a 200mm long machinist precision square, ideally with standard DIN 875 / BS 939 (any grade).
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How to Square a Square by Wesley Treat: https://youtu.be/FNpAQHrNpNU
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How to Square a Square and Make it True by Wood By Wright: https://youtu.be/enEYzTXg2Jg
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Caliper, 150mm long minimum. If you don't have a caliper you can use a steel ruler. (A vernier caliper is generally more accurate than a digital caliper, at the same price point.)
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A long caliper of 200mm or more helps to align the Y axis smooth rods spacing on any "Prusa type" printer.
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A general purpose clamp will facilitate the squaring of the frame when using a machinist square.
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Tweezers are always useful :)
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You can add a dab of blue Loctite #243 to the screws during assembly to prevent them from unscrewing.
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An 8mm drill bit or 8mm reamer can be useful in case the smooth rods holes on Z axis are a bit too tight.
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Files and deburring tool can be helpful to clean the printed parts.
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It is good practice to re-grease the bearings during the assembly.
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A torque tool can be useful to ensure you apply max torque without damaging hardware.
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Before starting to disassemble your printer, did you see we have a list of optional parts for the Bear frame?
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Congratulations you have finished this chapter and are ready to start with the disassembly :-)
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Got to the next chapter: 02. Preflight check and disassembly
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