Hasn't somone figured out the F06 error code?
I have been having problems with my Kenmore HE3t Elite washer. It will run part of the way through the cycle and then stop. It will flash the F06 error code in the display. I have looked for answers on iFixit but unplugging the machine is not the answer to my problem. I will call the repairman - but will fix it myself if possible. Is there any help out there?
Here is what the F06 code stands for
Drive Motor Tachometer Error
The control is unable to properly detect motor speed and the machine will shut down.
If a failure occurs during high-speed spin the door will be unlocked after 3 minutes.
• Check wire harness connections between the Drive Motor/Tachomete
Motor ControlUnit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit
• Check the Drive Motor
• Check the MCU
• Check the Wire Harness
the service manual can be downloaded for a limited time ;-) from here Good Luck and I hope this helps in getting you back to your laundry.
To long to leave as a comment so I added it here
Make sure that the motor is working properly. It is the motor speed that needs to be tested if it does not work right, the washer will stop. Check the wiring diagram Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms.. You do want to make sure that nothing will impede the motor from working properly. Have you downloaded the manual? It will show you the parts as well as how to deal with errors in detail.
here is more info from here Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.
Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 - is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU. All the connector pins are numbered R to L.
If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.
If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.
Based on some troubleshooting
Why? Because after verifying the motor windings, tachometer, and motor cable harness, I tapped the tachometer output sensors at the motor control unit (MCU) and connected it to an AC-coupled (but grounded) oscilloscope and tripped the GFCI. That led me to realize it would be expensive and inefficient to drive the motor, which is labeled for 800 Watts and 195 Volts, off a transformer-based DC supply. The MCU's power is 120 VAC, and there's no transformer on the board - so they power the electronics with just a regulator and large capacitor, and the two small surface mount chips near the serial communications label are likely opto-isolators. So line noise can get into zero-cross detector that measures output frequency. There is a filter according to some documents, but its effectiveness may decline with age. So if you get the error intermittently try cleaning up the power and post whether it's fixed.
BTW, to verify the tach was working I removed the motor, coupled the shaft to a Dremel tool, and spun it as fast as I could get it to go. (This is dangerous! Perform at your own risk.) The tach output was a clean sine wave whose frequency was proportional to RPMs. At high RPM output was tens of volts - enough to overcome the noise induced on the wires from the motor's power cables.
Just went thru this and bought a MCU but no fix. When I checked the motor I found that the resistance check on the brushes was three times what it should have been. Then discovered that the stator surface was uneven and causing uneven wear to the brushes. Changed the brushes but it only lasted 6 months before having the same problem. Bought a new washer instead of spending $400.00 for a motor. I did NOT buy a Whirlpool.
Just discovered recently after F6 electrical testing to no avail..there suddenly appeared in the pump trap a small rusty screw driver! I think there might be something else caught between the tub and basket as when heavy loads are washing I can hear a scraping noise and the basket will even get stuck sometimes and I have to push it by hand tp get it unstuck. hope this helps someone. I will have to fully disassemble to investigate further.
Turns out in addition to a pile of debris found in the water pump trap, which led to the suspicion that something else might be wedged between the basket and tub, after a few more cycle tests, lo and behold out pops a small pocket screwdriver! Works fine except the basket gets hung up once in awhile and I am not going to disassemble until it needs bearing. Might be parts from the Baffles which are not screwed in on my machine but attached with plastic feet that are snapped in and notice a couple are missing upon inspection thru the water inlet hole. I have no idea how that screwdriver(bou
I did alot of messing around with connectors and all that. I replaced the bearings which were obviously bad, the washer sounded like a jet taking off. But the F06 errors continued. I replaced the MCU and it fixed the problem. Don't buy a new washer. The part is around $200 and the machine works like new.