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Krups single trigger coffee grinder identified as style F203.

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How do I remove the blades? (Can't pull them off!)

Hi,

My grinder is not similar to the ones in the instructions. It's the same model, but it looks different inside. The blades are fasten with something that looks like a plastic nut on top. I´ve tried pulling on the blades, but it doesen´t seem to work. I´ve also tried to undo the nut, my tools are causing damage to the nut.

Do anyone know if this is a nut, or pulling harder is the solution? And if so, do anyone know if it is a right or left threaded nut (normal or lynx)?

My problem with the grinder is that the blades wont turn. The motor is working, but of some reason, either the rotor in the motor or the blade assy is stuck.

Thanks!

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Thanks for the answer! I got to the motor now, and the upper bearing is seized. As it's clearly cause of rust, this is my own fault. A few times I have used water to clean it, and the gasket on the shaft wasn't enough to stop penetration to the motor.

I guess there is no chance of saving it, but I will play with it some more and see what happens. Do anyone know how to disassemble the motor? I have removed the bolts, but the bearings are holding the upper and lower parts together (shrink fit?)

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I have the same problem. Did you figure out the problem?

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7 Answers

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Very simple: there is a slot through the bottom plate that is hidden under the product label. Take the label off, and the slot will be visible. This is a window that gives you access to the screw at the bottom of the engine shaft. Put a flat screwdriver head in the window and rotate the blades until the screwdriver sits in the slot of the shaft screw. Now keep the shaft steady and rotate the blade to unscrew. No need to take the bottom plate apart. It is a pain in the neck, and you will almost certainly break the latches that hold the bottom plate in place.

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This works like a charm.

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This fix for a Krupp F203 jammed blade works. First My wife threw it in the trash, I Googled the fix found this fix, Peel bottom sticker, I tried first a small screw driver that fit, small driver couldn’t get the torque. Screw That ! Get a bigger one and whaller out the slot, turn silver screw counter clockwise mine took 5-6 turns it loosed the blade. It now works like new I didn’t bother replacing the label

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Briliant! This really works, hard work but managed to turn the screw. Hard work also getting the label off. I threw away the previous grinder with same fault. I now know how to fix it. Thanks.

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When I removed the label (carefully so I could replace it), I could not get the screw head slot to line up with the slot in the plastic because the motor was frozen. So I drilled a hole through the plastic slot, big enough to match the diameter of the screw head. I could then use a large screw driver to turn the screw. I went ahead and held the blade (actually the gray plastic wings attached to the blade) and turned the bottom screw until the blades came off (maybe 8-10 turns). I plugged it back in, and it worked smoothly. I think just turning the screw loosened whatever was stuck. I screwed the blades back on, replaced the label and it works like new!

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My grinder (F408) has a screw in the bottom that holds the lid that hides the cable. No need to remove the label. Under the lid, I forced a screwdriver through the tiny slot to reach the shaft. Then I unscrewed the blade. Thanks for the guidance!

I was surprised to find out that the blade has no edge. My intention was to replace it to have a more homogenous grain but it looks like this is not the solution. Any ideas?

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The blade is right hand threaded onto the motor shaft. If the motor is running, I can't understand

why the blade is stationary unless the threads are stripped. That would seem unlikely though. If

you are trying to remove the blade by twisting the blade's plastic hub, it probably will break before

the blade is loosened. (Have you have removed the bottom of the grinder to access the slot in the

end of the motor shaft ?) By inserting a screwdriver in the slot you can keep the armature stationary

while you unscrew the blade. Then (with a rag for padding) the blade can be unscrewed (with a bit

of effort). If the armature isn't turning when you are trying to remove the blade (and you haven't

removed the base to access the slot), then the motor is probably frozen. Time to spend $20 on a

new grinder. Also, even if you get it apart, I don't think there are any serviceable parts inside.

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I removed the blade as stated and found that the blade was frozen due to a buildup of ground material around the blade plastic hub, and also around the shaft and inside the bearing support below the shaft threads that the blade hub fits down into. I cleaned these areas very well, blade with water and a tooth brush, the shaft and bearing support with a paper towel wrapped small screw driver. Tested the unit with the blade off! Bingo! Screwed the blade back on and I'm back grinding!

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Very helpful! I had no slot under the label and just drilled a whole (center of bottom opposite the center of the blade on the other side). The screw was right underneath and the replacement worked smoothly from there on :-)

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Hello,

I had the same problem. Yes, remove the factory silver label/sticker from the bottom (be gentle, it is still possible to slowly remove it without damaging it, so when you put it back it looks decent again). You’ll find a slot with a visible metal screw-head-like-shaped thing , so you can insert a screwdriver there and hold it firm while turning the blade counter clockwise on the other side of your grinder. Now, I wanted to remove some water that got under the grinding metal bowl last night, so I looked closer at the center of the rotating core and depressed black plastic latches using thin plastic material (I used a small rectangular piece of a clear plastic form salad/spinach container from my local grocery store-worked well and didn't scratch any surface). Then I was able to shake out the metal bowl and voila. I was actually surprised that there was another plastic bottom there, so there was a hope that the water did not get down to the electric motor. Yeah !!! I wiped the whole thing, dried it and assembled together. Remember, do not attempt to use running water to clean the grinding compartment after, e.g., grinding spices, herbs etc. Just wipe it with a clean dry or damp cloth. Anyway, the grinder still works, so no water damage or danger of electrocution.

I was wondering how to effectively remove the bottom part of the grinder, there is four sets of latches there, but I was not able to loosen them, even if inserting three screwdrivers there at the same time. Has anyone tried? I hate to scratch or damage those kind of things for esthetic reasons, so it would be good to know exactly how it is supposed to be removed. I hope this helps, good luck to all.

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I just fixed my 30 yr old Krups mill. Removed the blades as mentioned in previous posts, took of the bottom (two screws), cleaned all of the grinding dust then oiled the moving parts with clock oil. Clock oil lasts a long, long time. Reassemble and it works like a champ!! Just needed some cleaning and oil. Sure don’t make ‘em like they used to!!

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What size screw driver - none of the flat head screwdrivers we have will fit into the tiny slot on the exterior of the grinder and into the internal area for holding the center shaft steady.

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Removed blades per above posts. Put 2 or 3 drops of sewing machine oil down the shaft. Replaced blade. Now runs like new. Thanks for the tip guys. Regards, Bruce

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You are a genius! small blade screwdriver like a craftsman 41589 kws works like a charm cleaned the bowel and blade as it was sticky from spices, will try dried white rice next time as that is a good hack also! Very grateful for this blog!

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Hallvard will be eternally grateful.
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