washer quit working,f11 flashing on display
washing machine ran for 10 minutes,quit working,tried all reset procedures in manual,f11 continues to set
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ed lamb, F/11 is a Serial Communication Error. Communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly.Check Wire Harness connectors to the MCU, the motor, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
Check the Drive system for any worn or failed components
Check Wire Harness
This error can also be caused by a loose connection between the CCU and the MCU, so make sure that they are nice and snug. It is also possible that you have failed relays on your CCU board. If you are handy with a soldering iron you could try this :"
Disclaimer: I provide these steps only as documentation of what I did, not what you should do. I have years of experience with electrical repairs and soldering skills. I take no responsibility for anyone attempting this on their own.
DANGER! Improper handling of live electrical circuits can cause electrocution, fire, and/or death! Do not attempt to duplicate these repairs yourself unless you understand how to safely perform electronic repairs in general. If you do, be sure you take proper safety precautions.
Wear safety glasses when soldering. You could spatter molten solder or rosin in your eye and go blind.
Unplug the washer before opening the cabinet. You could electrocute yourself.
Wash your hands thoroughly after handling lead solder (especially if you are a smoker.)
WARNING! If you try this and do it wrong you could wreck your circuit board. You could wreck your washer. Your washer could unexpectedly start running water and flood your house (that actually happened to a friend of mine who also owned this washer.) You could burn yourself. You could burn your house down.
Here are the steps I took.
1. Unplug the main power cord.
1a. Remove the lid (there are three Torx screws with hex heads along the back that hold it in place. After removing them it slid back about one half of an inch, and lift it up and out.)
2. Take note of how the wires and cables were routed, so they can return to their original route when reassembled. (A digital picture would be wise.)
3. Use a Sharpie marker (or similar) and mark each connector with the two-letter name of the socket it was plugged into (found stamped on the plastic of the control unit's housing.)
3a. You may need a flashlight to read the letters along the left side of the control unit.
4. When all cables are free, remove the control unit by gently prying up the tabs that hold it to the top crossbar with a screwdriver and sliding it forward. (Only the outer two tabs have a notch in them, the middle tab is there just for support.)
5. Open the gray housing of the control unit by gently prying the side tabs open.
5a. Remove the circuit board the same way, by gently prying open the tabs holding it down.
6. There should be three relays on the circuit board. K6 was an OMRON G5LE-1-VD, 12 VDC, and rated to switch 10A at 250 VAC. K1 and K4 were both OMRON G2RL-1A-E, 12VDC, and rated to switch 16A at 250 VAC. (K1 appears to control the door lock solenoid.
7. Unsolder each relay one at a time to work on them, clean them and resolder each back onto the board before proceeding with the next relay.
8. Unsolder a relay by working first on the contacts on one end, pulling gently with a finger from the hand holding the board. When it loosens up a bit, let that end harden for a few seconds, then unsolder the opposite end the same way. Go back and forth from end to end a couple of times before it will come all the way off the circuit board. It does take patience.
9. After unsoldering a relay open the relay's plastic case.
9a. K6 is in a glued shut case that can be cut open with a razor knife - take care not to cut through the relay. take a look at the sides and see where the innards were, and make sure to cut above them. Stay about 1/8" below the top of the case all the way around the outside. Score the plastic deeply all the way around the case and pinch it off gently with pliers to break through the rest of the plastic.
10. Dress the relay contacts with folded-over 400 grit sandpaper. You may find that the relay contacts are black with soot from arcing.
10a. Make sure you do not get any sanding dust back onto the circuit board or back into the relay.
11. Once the relay is soldered back onto the board, replace the cut-off half of the case back over the mechanism, put a layer of electrical tape around it to seal out the dirt. Make sure the cut portions does not interfere with the inner mechanism.
12. Replace circuit board back in its gray box, make sure it is secure in the snap tabs. Make sure it is lined up properly with all the hold down tabs.
13. Reinstall the control unit. (use your picture for the cable routing as a reference)
14. Plug each cable into the socket it came from, securely lock the tabs on the connectors.
15. Replace the lid."
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