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Step 9
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There's an adorable plastic pull tab underneath the battery. It's likely there for battery removal, but we aren't sure it's up to the task.
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It seems the adhesive holding down the battery is much too strong for the feeble pull tab to break through.
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Forgoing the tab in favor of some spudgering, we're able to pry the 3.7 V, 0.8 Wh, 220 mAh battery off the back of the display assembly.
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0.8 Wh is more than twice that of the iPod Nano 6th Generation's 0.39 Wh rating.
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Step 10
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By now, we are getting pretty anxious to pull out the logic board and get a look at what makes this Nano tick.
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Alas, with all of the peripherals both soldered to the board and adhered/screwed to the case, we're still a couple steps away.
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We're able to unscrew the bracket securing the volume buttons to the rear case and pull out the button cable.
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Step 11
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Putting Bluetooth 4.0 in the iPod Nano means putting a Bluetooth 4.0 antenna in the iPod Nano.
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We found this Nano's Bluetooth antenna easy to remove with a plastic opening tool—provided you've already got the case open.
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Bluetooth connectivity in the Nano allows you to access your music wirelessly with Bluetooth-enabled speakers, headphones, and car stereos.
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Step 12
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After enough poking and prying to earn ourselves certification as plastic surgeons, we finally gently yank out the logic board!
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As in the iPod Touch 5th Generation, many of the important components—including the battery, Lightning connector, and volume controls—are soldered to the logic board.
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With the logic board gone, the rear case is left all alone with no friends to keep it company. It's not easy being green, you know.
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Step 13
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Pulling out the logic board really feels like pulling out the entire iPod—the battery, button cable, Lightning connector, and headphone jack all come with it.
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On the flip-side we found an intriguing fibrous tape covering the EMI shields on the ICs. It's probably there to insulate against contact with the rear case.
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Step 16
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iPod Nano 7th Generation Repairability: 5 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair).
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An easy-to-open case only requires unscrewing two screws and a plastic opening tool.
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Only standard Phillips #00 screws are used—no security or pentalobe.
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The LCD and digitizer glass are not fused together, allowing replacement of either component separately.
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"External" screws hidden behind the antenna mean less adhesive holding down the display assembly.
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The battery, Lightning connector, button cable, and headphone jack are all soldered to the logic board.
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The battery is adhered to the back of the display assembly.
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