Our contestant hails from a mystical place, the land of the rising sun, Japan!

The Nintendo Family Computer, released in 1983 in most of Asia, is the overseas brother of the Nintendo Entertainment System.

Technical Specifications:

• Ricoh 2A03 8-bit 1.79 MHz processor (based on the MOS Technology 6502 8-bit processor core)
• 2KB (16Kb) on-board RAM
• 2KB (16Kb) on-board Video RAM
• PSG Sound
• 256 x 240 pixels resolution

Backside ports include:

• AC adapter port
• TV/Game switch
• Channel selector switch
• RF Audio/Video output

Why are you looking so scared, little buddy? Don't worry -- our hands are gentle. We won't hurt you.

Fully assembled Nintendo Famicom console.

The Famicom was the first console to popularize D-pad controllers to acquire user input. Departing from the era of joysticks, the inclusion of the D-pad allowed for quick and accurate controls.

The controllers are similar, but not the same...

• The first controller boasts the traditional layout: D-pad on the left, "select" and "start" buttons in the center, and "b" and "a" buttons on the right.
• However, the second controller has a built-in microphone and a volume switch at the expense of the central "select" and "start" buttons... Cool!
• This is the only console we know of that has a microphone on one of its standard controllers.

The Famicom's miniscule 4W power supply won't be popping fuses anytime soon.

• That's about 2.5% of the power that the Xbox 360 devours.

Nintendo Famicom model number HVC-001, Made in Japan. We wouldn't want our Famicom any other way.

A quick removal of six Phillips screws and the bottom cover lifts right off.

Just like the earlier retro consoles, Fami is super-easy to disassemble.

(yes, we named him Fami.)

Two antiquated connectors exchange signals between the controllers and the board.

• Want to disconnect a controller? Gotta remove the bottom cover -- but that's pretty much it.

Controller II has an extra wire for microphone input and controlling the volume.

After disconnecting them from the board, the controller cables can be lifted out of the case.

Six Phillips screws secure the motherboard assembly to the outer case.

Lifting the assembly out of the case gives us a good look at the archaic silicon that makes this thing tick.

Two more Phillips screws secure the hefty power switch to the outer case.