Steps 1–20: MacBook Unibody Model A1342 Teardown
Tools
T8 Torx Screwdriver
$4.95 · 179 in stock
Spudger
$2.95 · 272 in stock
T6 Torx Screwdriver
$4.95 · 435 in stock
Phillips #00 Screwdriver
$4.95 · 68 in stock
MacBook Unibody Model A1342 Teardown
Introduction
| Author: | Miroslav Djuric |
|---|
We were curious to see why Apple thought the MacBook Polycarbonate Unibody was so special, so we took it apart! We got the MacBook from our local Apple store on October 20, 2009.
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Tools used in this guide
Teardown
Teardowns provide a look inside a device and should not be used as disassembly instructions.
Featured Guide
This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.
Paginated Single Page Steps
Step 1
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MacBook Unibody Model A1342 Teardown
Oh, plastic MacBook, how we've missed you...
Apple has made a bunch of changes to their base workhorse, including:
A polycarbonate unibody upper case
An LED backlit display with the same 1280x800 resolution as previous models
A glass multi-touch trackpad
An integrated lithium-polymer battery
Non-slip coating covering the bottom panel.
The case revision also allowed Apple to update the aesthetics on the new Macbook. Its contoured edges fit right in with the rest of the unibody lineup.
Step 2
Top: New MacBook, Middle: MacBook Pro, Bottom: Old MacBook
FireWire is gone! If you need FireWire, now only a MacBook Pro will do.
Also gone is an IR port for a remote. As far as we know, that makes the MacBook the only currently shipping Apple laptop that doesn't support a remote.
There's also no external battery indicator, a feature borrowed from the MacBook Air.
Apple has also replaced Mini-DVI with Mini DisplayPort, and replaced the two audio jacks with a single audio in/out port.
Step 3
After more than three years, the MacBook finally gets a new model number! A1342.
Unfortunately, Apple only allows those with 20/20 vision to find out their model and serial number. That text is incredibly tiny and difficult to read.
This new MacBook weighs in at 4.7 lbs. That's .3 lbs less than the old plastic MacBook, but .2 lbs more than the 13" Unibody MacBook Pro.
Step 4
Removing the lower case...
There are no more rubber feet to tear off!
Eight Phillips #00 screws hold the lower case in place, two less than the 13" Pro.
The lower case is surprisingly heavy, weighing in at 266 grams. The lower case is actually a sheet of aluminum with rubberized coating injection-molded onto one side.
In contrast, the lower case on the 13" Pro weighs only 142 grams, so the rubber coating nearly doubles the part's weight.
Step 5
Apple boasts an impressive seven hour battery life from the new MacBook, matching that of the 13" and 15" MacBook Pros.
The battery is held in with both tri-wing and Phillips screws, an indication that Apple doesn't want you replacing the battery yourself.
One of the three tri-wing screws is beneath a warning label in the top left corner of the battery.
For most repairs, removing the battery is not necessary, you just need to disconnect it from the logic board. You can use a spudger or your fingernails to lift battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
Step 6
The battery is 60 watt-hours, the same capacity as the 13" MacBook Pro.
The previous plastic MacBooks featured a 55 watt-hour battery and claimed a 5-hour run time. Apple has added 5 watt-hours of battery capacity and two hours of run time. Either this machine is substantially more efficient than its predecessor (thanks to the LED backlight?), or Apple's new battery life claims are overly optimistic.
Despite its higher capacity, this new battery is actually lighter than the previous MacBook's battery. This battery boasts a power to weight ratio that's 23.5% better than its predecessor.
Step 7
The MacBook now uses PC3-8500 RAM. Conveniently, all Apple portables with RAM slots as well as the iMacs currently use the same RAM type.
Like the Pro models, the RAM chips are stacked vertically, one directly above the other.
Our machine came with two 1 GB chips. Apple says the machine will support 4 GB maximum. There are 4 GB PC3-8500 chips available, but we haven't tried them in this machine yet.
Step 8
The hard drive isn't as easy to replace as it used to be, but it can be done. The hard drive is still considered "user replaceable" by Apple. It's strange that the hard drive is "user replaceable", but the battery is not.
After removing two Phillips screws and the hard drive bracket they hold down, lift the hard drive out of the MacBook by its pull tab and disconnect the SATA connector.
If you're installing a new hard drive, you'll need a T6 Torx screwdriver to transfer the mounting screws to your new hard drive.
Im getting one of these in about a week... How do I keep good maintenance of the battery? Do I keep the battery plugged in when its fully charged?
Does the new MacBook White Unibody "use the 64-bit kernel" ???
Apple should atualize this list: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3770
Well, given that the Macbook is unlikely to be running the server version of OSX, I don't think that list is too relevant......
Apple's official site says the macbook has built-in stereo speakers. But I only see one speaker in the middle. Are there other speakers somewhere else?
There are two. See the photos at Step 17 and Step 18.
That's not a speaker in the middle, that's the fan.
i've got a unibody macbook (before they turned them into pro's) and unfortunately Apple lock the MacBook's in to the 32-bit kernel (at time of writing), the Pro model's get the 64-bit mode enabled. I'll post a guide on how I got around this on my blog later www.red91.com
Annoying they've done that though, personally like the option of replacing my battery, the previous one went thru 3!
There is no battery indicator on this new MacBook
"Also gone is an IR port for a remote. As far as we know, that makes the MacBook the only currently shipping Apple laptop that doesn't support a remote."
And the Mac Pro doesn't support a remote either. What a contrast.
That older MacBook looks pretty dirty. Try using a Mr.Clean Magic Eraser, take all the dirt off mine.
iFixit Staff
No there isn't. Which is quite sad, that is such an awesome feature normally.
didnt you mean to say " yes, there isnt......" since the first person wrote " there is no battery indicator" -is it jusst me or is my english suggestion wrong?
and now to the subject: does the new unibody mac have a backlight keyboard?
Pedantic, and unfortunately incorrect. The sentence was a statement, then the second person said "no" in agreement. Besides if you change the original statement into a question: "is there no battery indicator?" then the answer would still be "no there isn't."
And since we're being pedantic, "is it just me or is my English suggestion wrong" is basically tautological. Yes it's just you, and yes your English suggestion is wrong. You should write "is it just me or is that statement wrong?".
Is this the view of the bottom half? I have read of a non-slip bottom. Is it seen here or was it removed?
Nooooooooooo, not firewire, oh well, ive still got my TiBook, and my Powermac G4 MDD
I have a question, when I try to open the lower case, it seems to be stuck in the middle..
I can turn it about 20° to the right and the left but I can't get it open..
what am I doing wrong?
I got it, just had to pull a lil harder xD
Apple doesn’t want you removing the battery yourself so it can be disposed on properly.
There is plenty of infrastructure for recycling user replaceable batteries in any country where people can afford to buy apple hardware. Requiring two different tools just to replace a battery that definitely will not last any significant international flight or workday is indisputable handicapping. The very minimum battery life where it starts to become acceptable is >10 hours rated, which would probably get you 7-8 hours actual use. At least then you could make it through a days work.
How do you disconnect the battery from the logic board?
I’d wager that the increased run time is due to the LED-backlighting over LCD and that the stated run times are as accurate as previous models.
You mean LED backlighting vs CCFL?
LCD is still the display tech. There would be a possible marked difference if it was an OLED display, but given the amount of white on our desktops and that current OLED displays draw significantly more power to display white, it may not save that much power were it to be used.
May iFixit send me a feedback about the upgrate of the RAM memmory to 8GB, please?
Is it possible to change HDD without removing battery?
The Mac Mini's also use ram like that, i just upgraded from 1GB to 4, now this thing screams.
Yes, simply remove the two Phillips screws that hold down the hard drive bracket, as described above in step 8
What is the interface between the HDD and the CPU? SATA or SATA2 (1.5GB/s or 3.0GB/s)? What make of HDD would you recommend for a 7200RPH HDD upgrade? Thanks.
Western Digital, or a seagate baracuda 7200.**, as long as it isn't a 7200.11, they have a lot of firmware problems