iPod Touch 4th Generation Front Panel Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace your iPod Touch 4th generation's front panel assembly.

Use this guide to replace your front panel assembly. The front panel is not separable from the LCD. A new front panel assembly will give you a new front glass panel, digitizer, and LCD.

If you bought them separately, be careful when sticking the LCD to the digitizer as the entire surface of the LCD is covered with glue. Once it sticks to the LCD, you will not be able to remove it.

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Edit Step 1 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • The iPod Touch 4th Generation front panel is attached to the rear case by adhesive. The use of a heat gun to soften the adhesive is highly recommended.

  • With the heat gun set on "low", begin heating the lower portion of the Touch near the home button.

  • It is suggested to heat the desired portion in a circular motion pattern to evenly dissipate the amount of heat throughout the device.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Beware, as the Touch will be very hot. It may be helpful to hold it with a towel while prying.

  • Insert the edge of an iPod opening tool between the front glass panel and the plastic bezel near the home button.

  • Do not try to pry between the plastic bezel and the steel rear case.

  • Pry the bottom edge of the front panel upward, being careful not to bend the glass excessively.

  • If it is too difficult to pry up the front panel assembly, reheat it and try again.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • When there is enough room to grab the bottom edge of the front panel, lift it away from the body of the Touch to peel up the adhesive along its left and right edges.

  • If the adhesive is too difficult to separate, use a heat gun to soften it before proceeding.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Due to the construction of the 4th generation Touch, the digitizer cable cannot be disconnected until the logic board is removed. Use extreme caution when handling the front panel assembly, as it is attached to the rest of the Touch by the very delicate digitizer cable.

  • Also, the display data cable is very short and is connected to the logic board near the top of the front panel assembly. If it does not become disconnected while freeing the top edge of the front panel assembly, be sure to disconnect it with an iPod opening tool before rotating the front panel assembly out of the Touch.

  • Carefully pull the top of the front panel assembly away from the adhesive holding it to the Touch, minding the short digitizer cable connecting the two components.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Remove the following eight Phillips #00 screws:

    • One 3.5 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 3.0 mm Phillips screws

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

    • Three 2.0 mm Phillips screws

Image #1

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to pry the thin copper cover up from the rear-facing camera.

  • Note the small spring located near the bezel next to the camera (highlighted in yellow).

  • Remove the steel cover from the iPod.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Insert the edge of an iPod opening tool under the steel mid plane near the bottom left corner of the Touch.

  • Pry upward to separate the plate from the adhesive securing it to the plastic inner case.

  • If the plate is still attached to the logic board re-warm the area to loosen the adhesive, then separate the plate from the logic board using the opening tool

  • Use extreme care, the speaker is under the area shown in photo. It is connected with very thin and short wires.

  • There is a very thin ribbon cable here that connects the volume and power buttons to the logic board. Try to work around this area like shown so not to rip the cable. Be sure to hold down this cable when lifting the plate. It could stick to the plate due to residual glue. It is extremely fragile.

    • This cable will tear very easily if you are not careful.

    • There is also adhesive under the area shown in red.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Slightly tilt the steel mid plane to dislodge it from the rear case.

  • Be careful not to tear the piece of copper tape connecting the rear-facing camera to the steel mid plane.

  • Lift the steel mid plane up off the rear case and peel off the piece of copper tape stuck to the rear-facing camera.

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Edit Step 9 Upper Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three screws near the top edge of the logic board:

    • One 2.0 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to gently pry, but not remove, the rear-facing camera away from the rear case.

  • Do not attempt to remove the rear-facing camera yet.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the edge of the logic board next to the battery enough to grab it with your other hand.

  • Do not excessively bend the logic board, as it is very thin and fragile.

  • Be very careful not to lift too much as the volume control ribbon cable is still connected and will tear very easily.

  • While gently lifting the logic board with one hand, use an iPod opening tool to lift the logic board near the copper tape at the logic board's top edge.

  • The logic board will be lifted adequately when the last display assembly connector has cleared the top edge of the rear case.

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Edit Step 12 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to begin peeling the loop of copper tape wrapped around the connector near the center of the top edge of the logic board.

  • Continue peeling the tape until it is free from the logic board.

  • Using a pair of tweezers to peel the tape greatly simplifies the task if you've got them.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Remove the front panel assembly from the Touch.

  • If you are installing a new display assembly, you will want to replace the old adhesive with new adhesive.

    • Remove as much of the old adhesive as you can and then apply new adhesive strips to the appropriate places.

    • You will also need to transfer the metal plate that sits over the front camera and sensor windows. You can do this using a heat gun or hair dryer.

  • After you have reassembled your device, it is common to get a white screen when powering it up for the first time. All you have to do is a hard reset and that should fix it.

  • Double check that the ribbon cable is not pinched between the LCD and the metal plate. Fold it back on itself so that it doesn't get pinched. If the ribbon cable is pinched, you may get a white screen that cannot be fixed because the traces on the ribbon cable have been damaged.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPod Touch 4th Generation device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

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Plastic Opening Tools

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Heat Gun

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Comments Comments are onturn off

When installing the new panel, it can be quite hard to get the connector onto the board with only one set of hands. You will need to use a second person to hold the iPod and the new front panel in such a way that the connector lines up, then use your tweezers to press the new connector in place. It's pretty much impossible to do with only one person...

Kevin Hulett, · Reply

ah ha, yes, a bit of practice is needed for sure on this, I have done quite a few now and that is by far the most frustrating part.

Biggest fear here is ripping the volume controller flex on the logic board, seen with the 4 pads top left of photo, i have had two rip on me and it's a real nuisance to change out the volume control flex. You can ignore step 10 really as you can still perform the operation without detaching the camera.

Dave, · Reply

Dave - Where did you get a replacement volume controller flex? I can't seem to find much of anything on the subject.

Rosalind,

Excellent. i bought from http://www.papadigitals.com/good-quality.... cheap price. now i can install it by myself because of this guider.

brent, · Reply

Okay I just did it, here's my tips for REASSEMBLY...since nobody shows you on YouTube.

1. Remove all traces of the old adhesive. Use Goo-Gone and a Q-Tip or similar. This will take awhile, I assume they cure the adhesive at the factory because my replacement doesn't stick quite as well. Use a iPod opening tool to scrape away old adhesive.

2. Looking down at the unit in portrait orientation, notice the speaker unit on the left of the Home button. That should get some new adhesive, use some left over from the replacement adhesive.

3. The LCD display is EXTREMELY fragile. One touch, one scrape, attempt to pry or similar and the LCD is toast. I will need to replace the one I just put in because I screwed up.

4. Take note of which screws go where. Maybe put them on a piece of paper with a logical orientation to which goes where.

5. Putting the digitizer cable back in is a notable achievement. I used a small pair of pliers and about 20 minutes by myself to get it back in.

Continued...

firenmiss, · Reply

Part 2:

6. Make sure to retransfer the copper tape that secures the digitizer cable and note the proper orientation.

7. Use an iPod opening tool (you'll need at least 3: they wear out quickly. Better bet: 4 of them.) as a prop to hold the logic board open while you fiddle with the front camera cable (hard to reassemble), rear camera cable (same difficulty) and digitizer cable (the worst).

8. To reapply the adhesive, note that the perimeter of the replacement adhesive has a cut out for the adhesive. The ultra-thin perimeter length is what you want. Separate the inner segment from the outer, leaving the wax paper attached to the skinny stuff. Try to apply the adhesive before you reassemble the display unit. Carefully apply it around the black plastic bezel that runs along the stainless steel base. Use an iPod opening tool to press the adhesive in place, and when you're satisfied, remove the wax paper.

8. The LCD => CANNOT <= be removed from the digitizer without permanent and immediate damage. Period.

firenmiss, · Reply

Part 3:

10. Do not buy a replacement LCD or digitizer separate. Buy the complete assembly (I got mine off Amazon) and you'll have to transfer the Home button (Push down the button, and GENTLY use a very tiny blade screwdriver to separate the rubberish material from the old display) and the metal piece that is on the old display near the clear opening for the front-facing camera.

11. Make sure to properly fold the digitizer connector into the cavity just left of the forward camera as one of the very last steps. Triple check to make sure the LCD connector is properly connected before you "close the door".

11. Be careful pressing on the perimeter of the display when you see "high spots" near the edge of the bezel. Don't do like what I did and put it in a rag, between two 2x3" pieces of wood and GENTLY put pressure on it in a vise. It looked good afterwards on the outside but the LCD got killed. (I thought I said the LCD was fragile before.)

12. Take your time and do it right. Take multiple breaks.

firenmiss, · Reply

Part 4:

13. I can't count my digits correctly in my lists. Blame my memory. (Must old volatile SIMMs from a Macintosh SE/30. Oh wait I have one of those and it works. Anybody want a 256KB SIMM?)

14. I took probably 4 hours to do it on my first time (this time). Be patient.

15. Watch yourself when you pry up the metal cover plate. You can toast the volume cable very quickly. Pry it up carefully with an iPod opening tool from the LEFT side because the RIGHT side has two metal tabs that retain it under the black plastic bezel.

16. You don't need to pry the rear facing camera in step 10. Also avoid removing the WiFi cable that glues onto the white block (PowerBook Weight Saving Device?).

17. Step 9: You don't need to remove the screw for the front facing camera and the screw near the white block. Only the one near the LCD connector.

18. That's all for now.

firenmiss, · Reply

Oh yeah, there's a couple more:

The adhesive on the flanks of the screen is minimal. You will mostly likely never get it to sit flush along the entire length like the factory.

I used a small pair of needlenose pliers to get the digitizer cable back in.

If you get a white screen upon reassembly, conduct a hard reset: Hold down the Power and Home buttons until the screen goes black and the Apple logo shows up. (This can happen if the device was inadvertently turned on during the disassembly/reassembly process. Avoid it.)

firenmiss, · Reply

Glass smashed in the corner my kid dropped it, case looked fine after cleaning up broken glass on adheasive. When reasembling the new screen almost overlapped same corner ,managed to push out case to original shape with plastic tool. All fits and works fine, if you heat the glass well at the start and slowly pry up the screen most of the glue stays on the case, when new screen bedded correct reheat the unit and gently squeeze all the way round until flush with plastic bezel repeat if required. Also when lifting circuit board to access plug if you dont have a second pair of hands place a small wedge under the board opposite volume control this allows you to hold the board down and work the new plug into place. Never done anything like this before start too finish took three hours.

Dave Doull, · Reply

1. Take care removing the metal part near the top of the glass, heat it well so that the adhesive is still good as the adhesive (tape) kit doesn't have a piece for that location (you could cut a piece from the left over rectangle, however, it may be to thick?).

2. I used the adhesive from ifixit, precut. However, the upper left hand corner is loose (I noticed on install that it wasn't very sticky in this location as the tape it was lifting by itself). Instead of starting over with new adhesive I just bought a hard case (which is probably a good idea anyway) and clicked it together, solved.

3. If you get a black screen with multiple beeps upon restart (the ipod I replaced the screen on had a dead battery and needed to be plugged in). Just do a hard reset.

4. I suggest powering on before peeling the tape on the back side of the adhesive. Just to be sure you have the LCD connected (I had to give it a good push to get it to click into place).

Steven K, · Reply

Notice the orange cable in the upper left of step 6 (click huge image). After you located that image notice the lack of adhesive on that cable. The adhesive is on the ridge behind it and on the grey piece next to it. I believe this is why the upper left corner doesn't stick well as noted in my above comment. The orange cable isn't stuck down either. On the next screen replacement I do, I will be cutting the adhesive to not be over top the cable, maybe the mold should be changed? Or maybe this isn't the issue at all?

Steven K,

Loose Upper left corner issue solved. OK, I couldn't help but take it apart again. This time with a heat gun and not a blow drier. Wow, what a difference, came apart easy. I figured out that it is the long ribon cable that connects under the main board (digitizer cable?). Anyway, this needs to be folded in three or four places, mine was only folded once when I took it apart and ended up between the LCD and the metal plate above the battery, folded it and it went back together perfectly. Hope that helps.

Steven K,

Step 12. I find it easier to only peel back enough of the copper tape to detach the ribbon cable. Attach the copper tape and sponge mesh to the new cable before reattaching to the board. The tape should be folded up like a "U" around the connector when you slide the connector under the board, it also makes it easier to align the connector.

irepoder, · Reply

Anyone else had problems with the Home button becoming unresponsive? Everything else works perfectly, but the button rarely works anymore. Can this be corrected by opening and repairing something, or am I just better off buying a new device?

Steven Savacool, · Reply

Changed the unit first time around. The touch screen did not work. appears to be connected properly. Thought it might be the digitizer was bad. Got another one and decided to try it before full assembly and it still does not work! It is plugged fully into the logic board but does not see any input. Is it valid to test before attaching the plate and sealing the glass? How fully assembled does it have to be before I can test the touch screen?

Thanks

ric5141, · Reply

Make sure to plug in the LCD too. :-D

Those Phone Guys,

What is the fix for the issue with reattaching the screen so it sits flush like the stock digitizer did? Constant issue with upper left corner popping up and not staying attached. Need a real fix other than "putting a case on".

Those Phone Guys, · Reply

Make sure the digitizer cable is folded in and doe not prevent the screen from sitting down. Also do not move the metal bracket near the camera to the new screen. Check for old broken glass parts along the edges. Also check that the speaker at the bottom has not moved up. It must go to the bottom of the case and not bulge up.

asle,

This tutorial is great! Simple to follow and understand. How ever, I think they left out a few important factors that can make this job a lot easier. First off, don't cheap out with your heat gun. USE IT! I had trouble carefully removing the cover from the speaker, So I use the heat gun and quickly put my pry tool in between, It easily came apart without damaging anything. You read a bunch of tutorials that say this is the hardest part, be extremely carefully, you will damage the speaker, blah blah blah! If you use a heat gun, its as easy as unwrapping your juicy fruit bubble gum! Same with the copper foil, most tutorials say (DON'T RIP IT! YOU NEED TO REUSE IT!) Great advice.... Why couldn't you just tell me to use my heat gun so the copper foil slides right off? If you have a variety of different color permanent markers, use them to color code your screws. That is what I did, than I tossed them in 3 separate cups, and labeled them 1, 2, and 3. First cup had the first set of screws this tutorial told me to remove, second cup had the second set of screws and so on. I colored the head of the screw, than put a dot around the area the screw fits in. Makes it a lot easy! Especially if you can find the same colors this tutorial used to circle the different screws. And I agree with every one else when they say get a second pair of hands. Really does make it easier on you and less strain on the LCD. I was going soooooooo good! I had it! I almost had it! But when I was putting it back together, I applied to much pressure on the screen (cause it wasn't fitting flush) and CRACK!*! the top part shattered. AGH! I powered on the ipod, and EVERYTHING WORKED! I ALMOST HAD IT! @!&&. I just ordered another one. At least I'm more comfortable taking it apart this time, and I know not to apply pressure to the screen (Common sense DUH), just let it fall in flush, heat the glue around it, and it should be fine. I just hope those copper foils can handle a second round. But if your good with instructions and your hands, this job is easy, not difficult like the tutorial and everyone else on this planet says.

Zayd, · Reply

Good suggestions! Thanks! For keeping track of screws I tape the screws down on my work surface close to the location where they came from (if I'm working on a laptop, I just tape the screws to the case or shield close to where the screws go). That way there's no spilling the screws, no need to refer to the drawing to see which screw goes where, and no chance for confusion. I hope that's helpful!

gdesbrisay,

Another suggestion.

I copied the pictures of step 5 and step 9 to a word document and printed it.

I place the screws on the coloured circles where they can from.

Don't blow them away whith your heatgun :-)

Rico,

I went through all the steps and had everything put back together, then when I was testing it before sealing it up, I found that the power/sleep button wouldn't work, while the digitizer, LCD and home buttons were fine. Checked the ribbon cable for the sleep/power button and I don't see any signs of damage. Any ideas what's going on here?

MikeEl, · Reply

I had that problem, the Volume, Power button flex cable got a small tear in it somewhere, I couldn't find tears in the copper traces, but there was. I had to change the flex cable, and it's the hardest job I ever did. Any iPhone job is a piece of cake compared to this!

Follow the directions for replacing this Sleep/Power button flex cable in the ifixit guide. It requires taking just about everything apart and most of it's glued on! The battery was the hardest part, don't worry, it'll deform, but you can flatten it back out, just don't puncture it! Also, you have to solder the flex cable onto four solder pads on the logic board. If you watch a couple of videos of how to solder and USE FLUX, you'll be surprised how well solder flows exactly they way you want.

Good luck with it, don't bend the board too much, but it's still tougher than it looks. After I replaced this cable, I thought for sure after the abuse and soldering and bending, it was done for. Seeing sleep button WORK was glorious sight to see!

gatortpk,

Great, thanks to the good parts, tools,& directions. It took me one hour to read over the instructions &, do the work. It was fun. I would not have attempted this project with-out the support of this site. Thank-you much.

ecalm, · Reply

OK, so I finished mine and everything is fine EXCEPT for a very thin grey strip going down the left-hand side of the screen. Any ideas?

MuzikalDisciple, · Reply

thank you iFixit---ive done 3GS screens and batteries and backs on a 4, but this was the scariest apple repair ive done. i was looking at the old (apple) combo piece and this one i got from amazon, and the white thing on the back of it is definitely more secure on the apple product. so im guessing definitely this is not OEM :) is there a place for "better" replacement parts? Ra

ralph, · Reply

i was trying to peep inside my ipod but got the lcd connector out of its socket. I panicked and used a swiss army knife to pry open the screen. After several attempts I was able to connect the connector. When I turn on the screen it is showing a white screen with weird grey/black lines, a black spot with red/purple/yellow boundaries.

Is the lcd damaged?

yash jain, · Reply

Just reboot, the white screen is normal the first time the iPod is turned on. Don't know about the lines and colored spot though!

gdesbrisay,

Ran through the entire process on my son's 4th Gen iPod, and everything was great (comments were very helpful). But: I've got no audio. None - zilch - nada. The speaker wires did not rip, the volume button's flex cable did not tear... in fact, they work to raise and lower the (on-screen image of the) volume. But no sound. The impact that brought the iPod to Dad's operating room was near the headphone jack - but the sound worked even with the smashed screen. Now? Clean, crack-free screen but no sound. Any clues?

Jim McAward, · Reply

Is sound coming out when you hook up earphones? If so, and there's no sound from the speakers, then I'd suggest that you take another close look at the speaker wires. I hope that helps!

gdesbrisay,

The digitizer cable on my replacement screen was waaay too long, could not put the unit back together without performing cable origami, and of course something got nicked or severed and the screen was inoperative.

Also, the adhesive strips I ordered with this were useless could not get the backing off even with the aid of an xacto knife.

All told, very dissatisfied with this part.

The Guide is good, but the parts were not at all satisfactory.

jsulliv8, · Reply

OK, I followed the steps and everything went fine. However, when I attached the new digitizer and tested it out, before closing the ipod, I get a black screen. I tried pushing the power button and all I get is a slight flicker on the screen and then it stays black. I thought that maybe the iPod wasn't charged so I plugged it in to my PC (it sees it fine) and I heard the iPod beep, so I know it works. After letting it charge for a while, I tried to test the screen again and got the same results. I returned the LCD/Digitizer, thinking it might be defective and got a new one. Unfortunately the new behaves the same way. Any ideas?????

Tom, · Reply

Did you try a hard reset? Hold power and home button until it restarts. Should fix the problem.

kc10kevin,

For a perfect fit of your new display assembly, remove ALL old adhesive down to the hard plastic beneath. Best technique was to apply a little Goo-Gone and apply heat, then use spudger to gradually nudge away the adhesive. Make sure to clean off all traces of Goo-Gone oil so that new adhesive will stick properly.

phamx011, · Reply

replaced everything now the down volume doesn't work

Rose, · Reply

When putting the new adhesive on, cut it into several pieces and transfer it with the brown paper on top. Get the smaller pieces into place one at a time. Trying to do that whole piece at once just looked like a nightmare!

Overall, good guide, must be very patient!

Katelyn Barkman, · Reply

Hello. I've gotten all the steps done, everything is attached. However when I fold the LDC screen forward to attach it, the screen goes white and the ios won't display. Yet when I fold the screen back to a perpendicular position the ios screen displays. Then when I fold it forward again it turns slowly white.

I know the cables are seated correctly it only happens when it folds forward.

bsischo, · Reply

I completed this, it was very tricky, but in the last step I found it was so much easier to get the front camera to come loose from the adhesive holding it to the rear case. Doing this gave me enough room to re-attach the Front panel cable. and putting it back together was simple, until you get to the other front panel cable, it was slightly tricky. But it is simple I found if you attach it while it is fully open, but you have the panel beneath the case slightly, and you carefully fold it shut, as you have it close together you then can slide the screen up locking the metal clips under the top cover. and carefully closing it onto the adhesive.

Matt, · Reply

Great Guide! Have dreaded repairing a 4th Gen screen since the guide first came out! Bit the bullet and thought I'd give it a go, got me a damaged iPod online and a budget replacement screen from eBay. The repair went Flawlessly! Got it done in around 1 Hour 30 Mins. Only thing I'd recommend is to re-heat the Mid-Frame before removing and watching that Volume Flex!

Mark Struthers, · Reply

I have the problem with pressure points on my device. I follow this guide to point on everything. I place adesive around the sides aswell with stopping at points where the LCD has notches. When I seat the screen and let it adhere I have a problem where there are pressure points at the top of the screen and I guess all around the edges of the LCD. I make sure I take can air to blow out any debris and still does it. I removed all adhesive so there can't be any high spots. If anyone can help me with this problem it would be AMAZING!

Thanks!

Brandon, · Reply

So you have checked there are no glass pieces left on the frame. The problem getting the screen flush in the frame is mostly 2 things. 1 - the digitizer ribbon cable is not folded correctly under the top. 2 - the speaker is raised and need to be pushed down. I would also check that if you moved the metal part around the camera from the old screen, this could be bent. I usually leave that piece behind even if I agree that the top right corner then is a bit vulnerable to pressure. I have had no issues with that.

asle,

@asle I have made sure there are no glass pieces and I also make sure I got the ribbon cable bent properly :D but I also left behind the metal bracket at the top for the camera and sensor. It still has this issue where I get white pressure points from pushing hard down on the screen. I don't know if it does this because it isn't an OEM part I'm using or if I'm still doing something wrong :/

Brandon, · Reply

Pressing hard down on any screen will give pressure points but this sounds like a bad part. If it seems flush to the frame it should not be easy to get the white pressure points. I would suggest replacing the screen/glass.

asle,

Nice guide with excellent pictures and clear instructions! Following faithfully I had a repaired and working pod in about 40 min. Not easy but definitely doable. I'm looking at doing my gf's pad now :) Thank you so much!

bazilmonk, · Reply

Worked like a charm. Saw another video where the metal bracket was retained for the new screen. Only issue for me was that one of the metal plate screws near the home button was stripped so could not remove it. Could still tilt it up and managed the repair. Didn't have any super glue which is a shame as it is not totally flush. I always have a case so a new gel one should help hold it firmly.

Gordon Stewart, · Reply

do I have to use a heat gun

Fabiola Winfield, · Reply

Hi, thanks to this tutorial achieves replace my iPod battery to 100%, it was difficult, so thanks iFixit!

The only problem I had was with the iFixit screwdriver disappointed me greatly, as it can not remove the screws with the screwdriver.

A tip for those who first make repairs before starting the disarmament carefully read through the tutorial to not make a mistake that could damage your iPod and do not forget to place pieces in a safe place so they are not lost.

Greetings from Guatemala

Alfonso.

Alfonso Espinoza, · Reply

Be careful with the heat gun!! Don`t use it too much. You can melt something inside, specially when you`re closing the iPod.

Luiz R, · Reply

No man you can use a blow dryer!

Colton B, · Reply

There should be (in general) better notes about the reassembly process. Getting the thing glued back in is WAY harder than just "reverse this step." Getting it to sit flush with any kind of adhesion is pretty difficult. No real advice other than make sure the edges of the metal thing at the top of the back of the digitizer are in the right slots and use judiciously placed pieces of 3M 300LSE adhesive.

jonathan, · Reply

I actually just figured it out. I had the ribbon cable for the digitizer running under the LCD and that wasn't allowing the LCD to sit down far enough. By re-folding the digitizer cable so it was triple-folded (when you do it you'll see what I mean) and only under the glass where there is no LCD, you'll get the glass to sit right.

jonathan, · Reply

I'm havin' problems with mine... hum, the front panel broke and i don't know where can i buy a new one. Can you help me?! Detail, the Touch screen still working... the external screen is broken, but the internal is ok...

Nathan, · Reply

EBay mate sells plenty

Greg W,

Glue is under the black part of the glass, not under the clear part of the glass.

The Glue is mostly around the top and bottom about 1/2 inch in or so, around both left and right edges the strip of glue is very thin about 1/8 inch or so.

I had success with heat and sliding the tool or pick up and down the side where there is less glue until it started separating being careful that I was between front glass panel and the black plastic bezel.

Evon Waters, · Reply

Take a look at the post http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/55811...

That will give you some advice as to what to move over from the broken screen, metal bracket, home button and small sponge spacer on the tip of the digitizer connector. Also how important it is to use new adhesive. If after assembling the screen bulges on one side (top or bottom) take the time to dissasemble and check that everything is in place (flat) and like jonathan writes, the digitizer cable is folded.

asle, · Reply

The LCD cable which attaches to the logic board, is, indeed, very short. When reassembling the iPod, you may only be able to leave a small crack between the glass and the body to allow for enough space to reattach this cable. A plastic opening tool works well, but be warned: it takes quite a bit of patience.

reidbauer, · Reply

Indeed the LCD cable which attaches to the logic board is short and I spent a good 30 minutes trying to get it to seat. When I finally did I realized I broke the right side and that is why my display is not working now. When they say difficult, they mean difficult - I have experience with electronics and I recommend you first practice on an older unit if you can.

kitlammers, · Reply

Most guides recommend simply cutting the digitizer cable once you have disconnected the data cable. This makes things much simpler for subsequent steps rather than having the front panel dangling there.

bowlingb, · Reply

The antenna cable will almost always stick to the digitzer and often the glass is broken there. You can use a knife to pick out broken glass around the edges elsewhere but use ONLY PLASTIC tool to separate the antenna cable from the old digitzer. This cable is very thin and a metal tool can easily cut the cable which you cannot then repair but must buy a replacement.

asle, · Reply

If you are removing broken glass be sure to recover the steel plate glued to the top of glass as well as the home button at the bottom of the assembly.

Mark, · Reply

This steel plate or bracket has been discussed many times here. My best experience is to NOT move it to a new screen. Without the bracket and using enough adhesive in fact brings the new screen closer to the chassis and a snugger fit. Read more here: http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/55811...

asle,

Be sure to get the tool down deep when removing the rear camera. If not, you can accidentally snag the mid-section of the camera and it will come apart -- and you'll end up buying a replacement.

Country Computer Service, · Reply

I have snagged that part of the camera several times. Easy to fix with super-glue along the edges of the cover. Works great. Sometimes no matter how carefully you pry up it falls apart.

asle,

This metal plate fits under plastic near RHS edge, and other side drops between the camera and a circuit board - to refit, you may need to loosen a nearby screw to allow you to move the circuit board a little to let this metal plate clip onto the side of the camera.

I had to press down hard with a plastic tool to get this metal plate to clip on.

Don't forget to re-tighten it later (I forgot).

phil colbourn, · Reply

A strip metallic cover, glued to display isn't mentioned in this guide.

Note that most new front panels are going without this part and you would need to remount it.

Daniel Filatov, · Reply

what exactly is the copper tape for that sits over the backplate that covers the rear camera? it gives me trouble every time.

yhwhelrey0, · Reply

The copper is important for heat dispensing. It has nothing to do with grounding or signal. In worst case if it is torn the Touch could get hotter but should work. If it is torn I usually just lift up one part and move it so it is in contact with the other copper part.

asle,

I just replaced the screen and rear cam on my 4th gen. The camera does not work??? Any ideas????????

mark, · Reply

Maybe the rear camera connection got loose when you lifted up the logic board in top to replace the digitizer. I would open it again and check the connection to the rear camera. Hope you fix it!

asle,

I couldn't get a spudger in-between this space, so I went to the side where the three screws were on the left hand side and worked my way towards the bottom to separate the glue...

Kevin Hulett, · Reply

The power and volume wire on the logic board were covered with adhesive. Be careful! While trying to remove the steel mid plane I found that the adhesive will rip the ribbon!

Chris Boenitz, · Reply

Here is where you take it easy. Two things can be broken here.

-Use time to carefully separate the bottom left part of the midplane. It sticks to the speaker which you tear the speaker leads if you are to hasty to lift it up. And remember the mid plane must not be bended up here since it needs to be 100% aligned so the new digitizer does not bulge here when in place.

- The second picture. The black visible adhesive sticks to the volume cable. Use time to carefully separate the mid plane here so the cable is not ripped when you lift up the midplane. Pry a plastic tool like the picture or/and a spudger slowly in until you see/feel the midplane loosening. A broken volume cable is no fun.

asle, · Reply

as stated before, be very careful with the part at the speaker.

the speaker actually sticks to the mid plane and i accidentally lifted it with the plane and separated one cable from the board!

stan, · Reply

That small ribbon cable ripped, be sure to really watch this - look at the second picture in this step and try to make sure you understand where it is on the board under it.

kitlammers, · Reply

This was difficult during both disassembly and reassembly. I used a thin guitar pick to separate the ribbon cable by the volume buttons from the steel midplane. Reassembly was tough because I didn't have the ipod dock connector seated correctly, AND more importantly, the speaker has a part that needs to be inserted into a black part on TOP of the dock connector-- it looks almost like a tiny air duct that has a foam gasket around it.

Nik, · Reply

I was able to replace the home button ribbon cable without having to fully remove the steel mid plane. It lifted up enough from the iPod's body that I was able to slip the ribbon in around the support it sticks to and hold it in place until the adhesive set.

Much simpler, and didn't cause any problems -- the mid plane didn't deform, and snapped right back into place.

Thanks for the guide.

jon, · Reply

I was able to stop at step 8 for the battery replacement.

Once you remove the metal shield, desolder the 3 leads. Then use your heat gun to warm the battery. Use plastic pry tool between copper backing and battery and separate them (two adhesive strips on the sides of the battery). Once done with this, you can snake the battery ribbon cable from between the logic board and aluminum casing. Not as easily, but still very doable, snake the new battery ribbon back through the same slot; solder 3 points and reassemble. Much easier than removing the entire board. Good luck!

Oh also, not mentioned in this guide - there is a plastic/silicon substance covering the 3 leads. Prior to desoldering remove this as much as possible with metal or plastic spudger (if metal, be sure not to bridge the connections).

Syl2us, · Reply

what do you do if you break the copper connector to the camera?

justinallison1, · Reply

The copper tape is mainly for heat dispersion. Without the copper tape it should work anyway but I would just lift up and move one part of the tape so that it is in contact with the other part when you put it together.

asle,

justinallison1, From what I understand, it is ok if that copper tape rips. In fact, I have seen people remove it completely. If it rips, just try and have the 2 pieces touching. (This is what I have researched and done myself with no negative results.

Katie Kousoulos, · Reply

after removed the steel mid plate, does anybody measure the battery voltage? I measured the battery voltage is only 0.3V. is it normal? I de-soldered the battery three points and measured the battery voltage 3.8V. So It looks like battery is OK. The logic board has problem. So I connected external power source 3.7V and maximum current 50mA to the battery B+ and B-. I found the power source dropped to only 1.65V and 50mA. Could I say logic board has problem?

William, · Reply

Can you use the same colour coding as with The above sizes? [HvL]

Hugo van Leeuwen, · Reply

These colors are too close together.. One red, two yellow.. Please.

playpets106, · Reply

Thanks for the comment! I adjusted that step, should be much easier to see now.

If you're ever having trouble seeing screw markers or other small details on a step, you can always view a larger version of the image with the "View Huge" link on the top left corner of the image.

Andrew Optimus Goldberg,

Can someone explain what the copper/ribbon is that the lower yellow marked screw goes through is for? Perhaps only heat dissipation? The ipod I have was given to me with much of the glass smashed and picked out, so some of this is just missing. Obviously I can't put it back...

hutchwilco, · Reply

When you insert your tool to remove the rear camera make sure you have the tip all the way in. You can accidentally grab the middle of the camera assembly and it will come apart - and you'll have to replace the entire camera.

Country Computer Service, · Reply

hi! i accidentally cut the copper adhesive on rear camera, and now it doesn't work: i start the app "camera" and it opens but still close the lens... can i fix it ? if yes, how? thanks

simone usala, · Reply

Use extreme caution when lifting the board. There are 2 ribbon cables that are extremely fragile, 1 connecting the rear facing camera and another connects the volume controller flex on the logic board.

Evon Waters, · Reply

Adding to Evon's comment:

BEFORE YOU LIFT UP THAT BOARD...

Use your plastic pry tool and make sure the flex cable, between the board and power button is not on top of the board. Take your time because even the slightest snag can tear that flex cable which leads to de-soldering/soldering the battery & flex cable.

Once the board is lifted the first time I usually put a piece of Kapton tape over that area of the cable in case it has to be pulled up again.

Country Computer Service, · Reply

Can you explain this in a little more detail?

I have done a dozen or more iPod screens without any issue. I have one here now that does nothing. Just a black screen. It won't even take a charge.

Should I simply desolder those pads and then resolder? Sort of like unplugging and replugging to reset something?

Thanks!

Rene

Rene Jeddore,

Ciao dopo aver seguito il tuo aiuto per come cambiare la batteria io ho rimontato tutto ma la barra di sblocco non scorre più o i comandi in quella altezza del touch , tutto il resto funziona perfettamente.Dove potrei aver sbagliato?

Potete aiutarmi grazie

salvatore sagone, · Reply

Do I need to put back the piece of copper foil on this step?

Noah, · Reply

No, not really. It has a function to spread and remove heat so your iPod could get hotter if it is not in place. If you have torn it. Just lift it up and put it together so it overlaps.

asle,

just spent 10 minutes on trying to plug this one back....no luck so far....this design sucks big time. worst Touch ever...worse than iPhone 1st gen. Difficulty should be changed to Extremely Difficult IMHO

grze, · Reply

20 minutes and I finally did it!!!! pffff...2 more ipods to go :/

grze, · Reply

I had success plugging the cable back in after realizing that the circuit board can be pried up more than you think. I pulled the right corner up until I could just put the cable on. It might be more dangerous, but it made plugging it back in much easier.

Timothy Rovolo, · Reply

I would change this to a very difficult rating too, trying to get that cable back on is crazy.

boo, · Reply

Remember to move the metal latch at the top of the screen to the replacement screen. I had to use this to keep it in place or else the screen bulges at the top. Also there is no notice about adhesive but I bought new adhesive to keep the new screen attached.

This iPod is one piece of fragile electronics. I agree everything about the 4th gen. iPod Touch is extremely difficult!

asle, · Reply

That was no fun! The iPhone 3G was a piece of cake, compared with this iPod. Especially when the front glass is cracked, it takes ages to get rid of all that glue. I hope I'll never have to do that again. Should be set to "difficult" at least.

After the replacement, the screen was pure white! Luckily, a total reset could fix that. I really was afraid I broke one of the flex cables.

mcbohdo, · Reply

At this step is when you should test that the touch and LCD are working before you assemble back the parts. Be very careful when you plug in the cable for the LCD before you assemble the iPod. I have several times bent a pin on the contact on the motherboard. This could make the display white.

If you see a bent pin on the LCD contact on the logic board you must carefully bend it back with a needle. If you break a pin you are lost and you need a new contact. And finding someone who is skilled to solder it!

So do not use any force to get the LCD cable into the contact. Gently! Now if the screen still is white and you are sure the contact is not damaged, do like @mcbohdo and do a total reset of the iPod.

asle, · Reply

Hi, take a look at my post here to make sure you have moved over old parts from the broken screen assembly because these are not included when you buy a new part:

'''http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/55811...

asle, · Reply

I use my fingers (and they are big) to put the connector back on. Make sure you feel the slight "snap" and you'll know it is connected. If it is not connected well, you'll wind up reassembling and finding that the screen is blacked out. :(

Country Computer Service, · Reply

what happens if the white screen never goes away? Connectors are good. Worked for a short amount of time before it went white.

Nemowuner, · Reply

Instead of using tweezers to get the pesky display connector on, I placed it under neath the logic board and pressed the logic board down on to the case with the display connector sitting on the bottom. Worked first time for me, no 10-20 mins wasted trying with two people or tweezers or anything.

Robert Riley, · Reply

I've done a few of these and I use the method Robert uses, takes no more than a hand full of seconds (note, I push on it with plastic spudger, wouldn't want to get the oil from my hand on the glue for the copper piece). I used to use the back end of a tweezers and put it under the connector and press the connector and logic board onto the tweezers, this worked well, but not as easy as just pushing it with the board.

Steven K,

Everything went quite well, though I'm having problems keeping the front and rear panel together after reassembly. I used 3M tape for it, which still isn't strong enough to keep both sides together. What should I use now?

Also, the right upper corner doesn't respond on touches. Every other part of the touch screen works just fine, but not the upper right part. Any suggestions?

Caia, · Reply

It took me 3 hours to get the connector on the rear of the PCB, glued screen down and would not fit even though all screws were tight. Also managed to break the wifi! Oh well.

Martin Roberts, · Reply

* Prior to final installation of the screen assembly, verify that the WiFi antenna is still connected underneath the upper left corner of the logic board. (If it came undone your WiFi won't work!)

* Don't forget to transfer the bracket at the top old screen to the top of the new screen!

There's a round mark on the screen that lines up with the hole in the bracket.

I was able to reuse the adhesive that was already on the bracket. After placing the bracket in place on the new screen, heat the bracket with a heat gun to re-flow the adhesive.

* iFixit, would you please add a photo showing where the adhesive in your adhesive kit is supposed to go?

* The suggestion above to test the iPod prior to final assembly of the screen is a wise one!

gdesbrisay, · Reply

I did it! it was quite fast (45 minutes)

Thanks ifixit!

loquetraoul, · Reply

When lifting the logic board I also lift the front facing camera from the back of the iPod. It has a small amount of foam adhesive holding it down. I simply hook it from above, in the space where the screw holds it. Once the camera is free and still attached to the logic board you can lift the board much higher and fit fat fingers behind it to plug in the digitizer cable.

Be careful though. If you get too happy with this new found space you may end up putting too much tension on the volume cable.

I have used this technique on about 5 iPods now and it has been flawless for me.

Rene Jeddore, · Reply

Reconnecting the new screen is a pain in the !@#, it's better if u disconnect the camera too so you can lift it up a lot more. The logic board will bend pretty easily, enough to click the connector with your fingers. Just be sure you don't snap the orange cable on the side.

When reassembling the ipod you should check if the speaker on the bottom is fitted correctly. if not, you will never be able to close the ipod correctly and the display will always come out.

also check if the display is working before you close it again.

jandelombaert, · Reply

>>After you have reassembled your device, it is common to get a white screen when powering it up for the first time. All you have to do is a hard reset and that should fix it.

After connecting everything and pressing power button, awaiting for a white screen, I was surprised that my iPod was even turned on and didn't noticed any surgery.

Daniel Filatov, · Reply

This is a excellent guide with very high quality images, good work guys! However, they make it look easy. Please be advised, if you have no technical knowledge about small electronics please do not try this yourself!

As owner of iRefresh I can tell you that 20-30% of our customers buy the screen from either us or another online repair shop and they break something else while attempting to repair it themselves…usually the cable that controls the volume and sleep button.

It's worth the extra money to have it installed professionally. This repair can go bad and cost you double or even triple what you paid for the screen.

Cheers!

tony viteritto, · Reply

Things I did to make this step easier:

1. Don't push too hard when reconnecting the cable.

2. Take your time.

3. If a friend is with you it is easier.

4. Flip it over, then try to plug in the cable.

5. Watch a YouTube video, that might help you. It helped me.

Joe Bobbins, · Reply

Also, if your device won't turn on, press the home+sleep/wake button at the same time for about 20 seconds.

Joe Bobbins, · Reply

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