iPhone 4 Display Assembly Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace the display assembly in your iPhone 4.

Use this guide to replace your iPhone's display assembly. Replacing the display assembly will give you a new front glass panel, digitizer, and LCD. The LCD is adhered to the glass at the factory and the two parts are not separable without damage.

After successfully replacing the display assembly, protect your new display from scratches by installing a screen protector.

Tools (continued)
Relevant Parts
Image #1

Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Your iPhone 4 rear cover may have either two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws (second image). Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

Image #1

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

Image #1

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

  • If you are installing a new rear panel, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker from the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area near the lens.

Image #1

Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    • Some devices may have two screws, one of which holds down the contact pad which is located above the screw indicated in red in the photo.

Image #1

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

  • Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

Image #1

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the clear plastic pull tab to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone.

  • Do not remove the plastic tab from the iPhone.

  • You may need to use a plastic opening tool to loosen the adhesive under the battery.

  • Remove the contact clip from the iPhone.

  • Before reconnecting the battery connector, be sure the contact clip (shown in red) is properly positioned next to the battery connector.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the pressure contact as well as its contact point on the rear panel with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Image #1

Edit Step 7 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

  • Remove the SIM card and its holder.

Image #1

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips

  • Remove the thin steel dock connector cable cover from the iPhone.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the dock connector cable cover with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Image #1

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from both short ends of the connector.

Image #1

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Carefully peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board and the lower speaker enclosure.

  • Do not use excessive force to peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board. Doing so may tear the cable.

Image #1

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to pry the lower antenna connector up off its socket on the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the bottom of the logic board to the inner case.

Image #1

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to to the logic board:

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips

    • Two 1.6 mm Phillips

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips

    • One 4.8 mm Phillips

  • When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless.

  • Also make sure to put the long 4.8 mm Philips back in correctly when reassembling. This is the ground for the Wi-Fi antenna and is often the culprit if you are having bad Wi-Fi reception after reassembly.

Image #1

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the logic board.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the Wi-Fi retaining clips away from the inner frame.

  • Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Make sure you don't lose the metal clips on the top of the cover where the 4.8mm screw attaches or the 4.8mm screw. That's the primary reason for abnormal Wi-Fi performance after the reassembly.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the connector cover with a de-greaser such as Windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues. Do not clean the connectors themselves with Windex.

Image #1

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to carefully lift the rear camera connector up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Remove the rear camera.

Image #1

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the small circular white sticker (warranty sticker and water indicator) covering the screw near the battery pull tab.

  • Remove the 2.4 mm Phillips screw that was hidden underneath the sticker.

Image #1

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the following connectors up and out of their sockets on the logic board:

    • Digitizer cable (pry from bottom)

    • LCD cable (pry from bottom)

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable (pry from top)

    • Top Microphone/sleep button cable (pry from top)

    • Front camera cable (pry from top)

Image #1

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff near the headphone jack.

  • When reassembling the device, this standoff sets the height of the Wi-Fi shield removed in step 13. If not torqued down, the shield will be above the plane of the frame and the back will not slide into place in step 2. The shield should be flush with the headphone jack.

  • When reassembling the motherboard, ensure that its edge sits under the circled standoff, otherwise the screws will not fit.

  • When reassembling ensure that the small rubber spacer attached to the top of the motherboard is in place. Without this part the motherboard could damage the ribbon cables around it.

Image #1

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Carefully remove the logic board from the iPhone, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • Be careful not to damage the small gold prong (marked in red, near the top) as it's very fragile.

  • On reassembly, be careful not to trap the lower antenna cable beneath the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 20 Speaker Enclosure Assembly  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.4 mm Phillips screw securing the speaker enclosure to the side of the inner frame.

Image #1

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Remove the speaker enclosure from the iPhone.

  • Before re-fastening the speaker enclosure to the inner frame, be sure the four small EMI fingers rest below the lip of the LCD frame.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points between the EMI fingers and the internal frame as well as the brass screw mounting point with a de-greaser such as Windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Image #1

Edit Step 22 Display Assembly  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws securing the vibrator to the inner frame:

    • One 6 mm Phillips

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips

  • Remove the vibrator from the iPhone.

Image #1

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the front panel near the headphone jack.

Image #1

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Remove the three large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws along the volume button side of the iPhone.

  • Keep track of the washers under each of the screws.

  • Tip: It can be tricky, but it is also possible to just loosen the large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws slightly, without having to remove and replace the screw-and-washer set.

Image #1

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the lower microphone.

Image #1

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the dock connector ribbon cable.

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the three large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws along the SIM card side of the iPhone.

  • Keep track of the washers under each of the screws.

  • Tip: It can be tricky, but it is also possible to just loosen the large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws slightly, without having to remove and replace the screw-and-washer set.

  • Remove the small-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the rear camera.

Image #1

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Carefully insert the edge of an iPod opening tool between the rubber bezel around the front glass panel and the steel inner frame.

  • Do not attempt to insert the tool between the glass and the rubber bezel.

  • Carefully pry the upper edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame.

Image #1

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Slowly and gently lift the top edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame.

  • Continue to rotate the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame until it slowly begins to peel off the adhesive applied below the home button area.

    • It may be easiest to insert a spudger at the top and work it around the edges, spreading gently as you go.

  • Carefully pull the lower edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame.

  • Be careful, if the home button sticks to the front panel you may tear the home button cable.

  • Do not flip the front glass completely away from the frame. Doing so may result In damage to the digitizer cable.

  • If the glass is cracked (which it probably is since you're replacing it) removing the panel is likely to cause it to bend, kicking off small shards of glass. Before you do this step, cover the front with clear tape, then perform the actual removal over a trash can. Protective eyewear would also be prudent.

Image #1

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • De-route the digitizer and LCD cables through the steel inner frame.

  • Before re-fastening the front panel to the steel inner frame, be sure both the LCD and digitizer cables are not folded or pinched between the inner frame and the front panel assembly. This will result in possibly damaging the cables and not having enough slack when reconnecting them to the logic board.

  • When the front panel has been correctly installed both the LCD and digitizer cables should be immediately next to one another and should be the same length and should be just hanging over the steel frame.

  • Ensure that the cables do not get caught between the screen and the frame.

  • When replacing the front panel assembly you must remember that you might have to reuse the earpiece grille and the clear plastic ring around the front facing camera from the old/damaged assembly. This will depend on where you buy the replacement part.

  • After reassembly, protect your new display from any scratches by installing a new screen protector.

Image #1

Edit Step 31 Display Assembly  ¶ 

  • Your replacement display may come with a red plastic film on the back of the LCD.

  • If it does, use the pull tab near the home button to peel the plastic film from the LCD before installing the new display in your iPhone.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #000 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

SIM Card Eject Tool

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Done! Boy, it took me 1.5 but done. Anyway don't forget guys it's quality that counts so don't hurry up, take your time & get light (lots of light above you). Get a coke and it will work it. I reassembled everything, turned it on and home button working yeah. Ouch, my screen was no more sensitive. I killed the digitizer cable. Lucky me I had another broken iPhone which i took the LCD and put it on my phone. (about 1.5 again to reassemble everything back)

Tip 1: I did the whole thing with Essential Electronics Toolkit and I had everything I needed.

Tip 2: Print Home_Button_Screw_Template.pdf (you'll need it) Find a magnet pad to put under your A4 paper. This will help hold the screws.

Tip 3: Use a suction cup at step 28. It found it in my Essential Electronics Toolkit

Tip 4: I killed my digitizer cable at step 29 & 30. So please pay double attention there.

Tip 5: Get yourself a beer when finished :)

Rapstorm, · Reply

i did it success but the sensor dosnt work what the problem

abdallah hanoud, · Reply

Great guide, but I can't seem to get the back panel on afterwords. All of the plastic tabs seem to line up correctly but it won't slide down into place. Any advise?

Ruben, · Reply

I had the same problem.

Rear panel did not seem to slide back in to place.

After googling I found this tip:

http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/44334...

If everything looks fine and aligned then you might just need to use a bit more force.

Worked for me :)

Rolf Sommer Kaas,

Wow that took a long time. Almost 2 hours! Fair enough, I've never done it before, and it was for a colleague so I was being extra careful!

As long as you take your time and remember which screw is which, it's fairly straightforward if time consuming. I'd recommend printing the image out in step 13 - some of the screws are incredibly similar. It will help you with which is which when you come to put it back together.

The guys at ifixit are brilliant! I couldn't have done it without this guide!

Alan Shenton, · Reply

Finally got it done. Had real issues with the screwdriver fit; I ended up filing down the tip and all the edges by a few microns to get it to bite the screws enough. Corner screws were an absolute nightmare. Also, the front camera mount on my new screen was mounted badly by about 10 degrees rotation, so that had to come off so I could reuse the original. Thankfully everything is working properly and good as new again.

Lesson learned... never drop an iPhone 4/4S!

darthvalkyr, · Reply

Just finished this - Was fairly straight forward and only issues were freeing the battery (Used hairdryer to soften the glue) and getting the logic board back in which was fiddly as some thing thats very fiddly. Result is great - very satisfying when it restarts. Display is slightly brighter than it was so may have to recheck some connections or maybe its just a warming up thing from first use.

Paul, · Reply

Done- Twice! First time everything seemed OK, but then when we turned it on the screen flashed white once, and then went black. Nothing worked but the vibrate switch. I reopened it, figuring maybe I connected something wrong, went back to the stage with the 5 connectors (Step 17), lifted everything up and reattached them. Then closed it all up and the apple icon showed when turned on- for about 6 minutes. And then suddenly everything worked.

The second time, my own iPhone, it took 3 full disconnects and reconnects of the LCD & digitizer to get everything working.

My point- don't despair if it didn't work the first time. Chances are something's loose or not connected right and if you come at it fresh the next morning you might just get it right on the second try. Or third.

Shifra, · Reply

Hello, I recently changed to a display iPhone 4 and when I open it I do not nimic.Touch displays the works. And the screen is light.'s What it could be? Thank you! Please help me

Florin Constandache, · Reply

The guide explains perfectly the process to change the display. It took me around 1hour to replace the display being very careful with all the screws and parts (print Home_Button_Screw_Template.pdf, you will need it).

When assembling the iPhone back I forgot the antenna cable (step 11) below the logic board and had to disassemble almost everything to release it.

Thank you very much for this wonderful guide!!!

Sergio Fernandez, · Reply

I have just replaced my screen on my iphone 4 and was thrilled to see it working again, however, I cannot get a signal? Is it something to do with step 13 and the 4.8mm screw that holds the spring washer. Mine pinged off when dismantling and I'm hoping I have put it back correctly? I did look at the link that shows where this washer should be attached. Not sure if it's this that is responsible for my lack of signal? Can you help? I have to say that these are very impressive and easy to follow instructions. Just a shame this washer detached its self

Jackie 19 nov 2013

jackie, · Reply

Fantastic guide, fixed my gf's iPhone and everything worked perfectly afterwards :-)

Many thanks.

Karsten Juhler, · Reply

Hey, i have succesfully done everything so far.. but somehow 1cm of the right side wont work.. did i damage and contacts?

andrej, · Reply

Just the left edge of the digitizer isn't working. Not possible to type Q. Everything went together rather well. I reseated the digitizer connector but still doesn't work. Any ideas or do I need to purchase a whole new LCD assembly?

mark, · Reply

This guide is very thorough and accurate. I would definitely recommend reading through it at least once before starting.

I used two ice cube trays (dried out of course) to keep all the screws organized.

Took about an hour to complete. I had to remove the new display because I didn't pull both ribbon cables through all the way when installing it. That was the trickiest part for me.

zachrye, · Reply

woohoo Done ! Tanks for the Jelly Bears (Europe shipping) by the way !

Works flawlessly now !

bmerciergallay, · Reply

I fixed my iPhone so here are tips if this is your first time.

1. Wear surgeon gloves.

I recommend this because any grease on your fingers may cause an electrical issue with the metal components of the device.

2. Connect your laptop to a TV via HDMI cable.

Even though this isn't a necessity it helped speed up my repair as I could just look up to my TV screen rather than look at my laptop, and since my TV is wall-mounted right in front of my desk so I saved a lot of space on my desk, and I connected a mouse to my laptop, put the mouse on my desk and left the laptop on the floor and whenever I wanted to scroll down I used the mouse and looked at my TV.

3. Use a magnetic whiteboard.

You can get one of these off of Amazon for about $15 and they help keep your screws in order and if you lose one of these screws the performance of your iPhone could deteriorate.

4. Fix iPhone in suitable environment.

Keep the room clean so you don't lose the screws. Also keep it cool and try to reduce disturbances to a low.

hobgtav23, · Reply

Thank you for this wonderful guide it was helpfull lay down tape so you can put the screws on that it saves confusion.

Ben, · Reply

Did this carefully, apparently successfully, but when I turned it on the screen was blurry, the colours inverted. What could the ploblem be, have you got any recommendations?

Thank you very much!

Sofie, · Reply

i did the replacement, all functions of the phone works fine, but the color quality of the new display has been changed, pure black color won't appear in the display, a brown mixed black color given, please help what is the reason?

Asela, · Reply

Success :-)

Out with the old screen and in with the new. My iPhone 4 is also unique now, as it was black and I installed a white front. Kinda looks cool with a black button and back. Nice contrast.

Note to others: Take your time, be patient and above all stay organized.

Good luck

0RAZ10, · Reply

I'm not sure if this is the appropriate place to ask this but any help is very much appreciated...front panel was removed, actually not even fully removed just lifted up and then snapped back in place (before we realized we were doing something wrong) and now the phone won't even power on. I've held down power button several timesand up to 30 seconds. Have also held down power and home button together but still nothing. Any idea what i've done and/or how to fix it?!?!? :/

rachel, · Reply

Hi, I try to change my broken screen assembly whit replacment, but the new screen doesn't work. My question is does the fact that my iphone 4 whit IOS 5,1 (jailbroken) have effect on new screen. Do I have to update maybe or revers jailbreak. Let me just say I have two new screen assembly and not one work's!!! ????

Does anybody have any info??

thnx

Mario, · Reply

Caution: New phones may contain T1 screw heads instead of Phillips.

ajg35, · Reply

any news on those screwdrivers? where can we buy them?

grze,

using something like the 18-compartment tray will GREATLY help with this one; there are over a dozen groups of parts. For re-assembly having a digital calipers to measure the 2.4 vs the 2.6mm screws also helps greatly.

awr, · Reply

My method for hardware management during delicate phone surgery is to take and print out on 8.5"x11' paper, one or more pictures of the open phone in various stages of disassembly, and then tape the screws to the appropriate spots on the pictures. Also write numbers on the pictures next the screws to indicate the order in which you removed them.

lens42,

I did a successful surgery on my iPhone, be warned this is not for the faint of heart!

I've done iPod screen replacements, battery replacements, this is by far much more difficult and intricate.

Great write up! Thanks a million.

Jaysen Strange, · Reply

Couldn't even get both screws out of the bottom of the case. One was easy and other refuses to budge. Screws so small I can't see if it is turning or screw driver is properly seated. Sad I too have done screen replacements on other phones. Don't know any secrets to get the screw out

ckracht, · Reply

I also have a problem with seeing what is happening with some of those tiny little screws and parts. For other projects that I do, I use an Opti-Visor. It slips over your head and provides 10x magnification. ( You can find them on Amazon).

Yeah, it adds cost to the project and you would have to wait for delivery, but it sure makes a world of difference in seeing what you are working with / on.

jhow,

On an early iPhone 4 I found that the #000 Phillips bit included in the 54 Bit Driver Kit didn't actually fit the screws. However the JIS #000 also in the kit did fit quite well. This is due to the JIS bits "thinner" design to prevent camming out of the slot. Otherwise everything went well. Looking forward to replacing the battery in my other phone that has the pentalobe screws. Glad I got the 54 Bit kit!

etler, · Reply

Use a vacuum duster and a sharp tool to pry out the dust, this can increase the volume insanely!

Dpairs, · Reply

At the very last second before insertion, the second new screw for the bottom popped out of my pliers! I dont' want to use the old ones, but I don't want to leave it with one screw. Can I get a replacement screw?

Otherwise it went together fine, and I figured out for myselkf that the contact needs to be bent,,,

loujudson, · Reply

What does the park that is gold and next to the 4.8mm screw for the antenna? Looks like I am missing that part and almost positive that is why I can't pick up or connect to any wifi signals. I have the screw and the antenna from another phone that is working and tried it on the broken phone and still doesn't work. Only thing different is that gold metal piece to the left of that 4.8 mm screw. Can I buy that part? how do I attach it?

Jay Pennington, · Reply

not able to unscrew

Naved Zaidi, · Reply

using suction cup with too much force breaks rear panel

lily einstein, · Reply

Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board- for me this Phillips screw won't budge from its place have tried all the phillips combinations 000, 00, 0, 1 and the straight /slotted 1.5 mm but nothing. can some help me please purchased a replacement battery for my iPhone 4 but not able to do it just because of this screw.

Naved Zaidi, · Reply

I was going through the take apart and after reassembly, it seems to just sit there an power cycle. It's as though the battery is no longer working. Any thoughts as to what I may have done wrong?

Social Apples, · Reply

Use #000 fine screw driver!!!

bfbogaert, · Reply

Use an #000 fine screw driver to remove two screws from iPhone 4s!

bfbogaert, · Reply

There is a metal bracket that secures the connector, that will be removed before the conector is unfasten

poseido, · Reply

When I used a plastic opening tool to gently disconnect the battery connector from its socket, I accidently remove the socket too.. Now what? :( ......

odisseas, · Reply

Stuck on step 4 can't unscrew the battery screw. stopped trying as all i seem to be doing is damaging the screw any tips as to how to approach this?

Tazziii, · Reply

my phone doesnt have a screw that connects the battery to the logic bored...is that a problem?

sadie, · Reply

I didn't need to remove the battery !! why would you take the battery away, the motor can be removed easily with the battery in place, and the whole process would take less than 2 minutes if you exclude the battery steps

Mohammed Fahmy, · Reply

I have trouble with the screw: I bought my used and now opened it for the first time. The screw is totally messed up, I can't unscrew it because the screwdriver doesn't fit in the screw/doesn't unscrew it. What can I do?

dfrisch86, · Reply

Installed new battery without a problem. Now it does not hold a charge for more than 4 hours. Phone works fine but what did I do wrong?

Mary OBrien, · Reply

There is a small black L-shaped bracket of some sort that tits between the battery connector and the motherboard socket, with a loop on one corner that sits betwen the riserand the battery connector. Remove this now, and do not forget to re install it on assembly.

stevesontheroad, · Reply

When reattaching this bracket make sure your Battery ribbon is already tucked underneath the battery with only the minimum clearance required. Then make sure the brackets overhang is over the battery ribbon. Dont try to slide it under the Ribbon.

crimney, · Reply

In Step 5 be EXTRA careful with the battery connector as the socket can come off extremely easy. This can mess up the replacement a little bit and cost you extra. Otherwise, this guide is excellent.

Good luck, fixers!

I fix(ed) it!

mateuszkus, · Reply

Just be careful when removing the battery with the plastic pull tab. On some units, they use so much glue that it's virtually impossible to take the battery.

In such an instance, you could use the iPod opening tool to assist (just be careful where you stick it!)

klubn, · Reply

use the iPod opening tool to pry gently under the battery from the outer edge of the phone and work towards the plastic tab. the tab is not actually attached to the battery itself, but a plastic sheet between the battery and inner frame. the adhesive on the battery tends to be under the edge of the battery nearest the center of the phone.

David Iwanicki, · Reply

Understand that the plastic pull tab is part of the phone. It sits under the battery like a tray and is not connected to the battery so it needs to stay in tact.

mattcfi, · Reply

once the iphone restarted, the battery was at 30%.

baldus, · Reply

This i think is the most diffucult part.

Because they use so much glue on it. I have to did this with so much force.

Glad that i didn't kill the circuit board when i took this out.

Shoung0690, · Reply

My battery was so firmly glued in, it took a long time to slowly pry it loose. Patience is the key to this process. I could see easily damaging the circuit board by using too much force. The plastic tab did not help at all.

The ribbon cable attaching the new battery to the battery connector clip is longer than the original. I clicked the clip into the socket first and then was very careful to fold the excess while putting the battery back in so the ribbon cable didn't kink. One kink in this could sever the battery leads.

drathbun, · Reply

My ribbon cable was also longer than the original. How did you get it to not kink while placing the batter back into the phone? That seems to be my only hang up at the moment

cvbaseballsean22,

Piece of cake! The hardest part was being sure the outer pentalobe screws were actually turning and I wasn't stripping them. Battery was glued firmly in, so I loosened it from the outside instead of using the plastic pull-tab. I pre-bent the battery connector neck before putting it back in and had no problems with it fitting in. Getting the battery connector aligned with the antenna piece underneath was a bit fiddly. Got the case back on, put in the new screws, and powered the phone on without problem. Had 40% charge, all seems well. Yippee!

chezbuttons, · Reply

Do NOT use a spudger or similar type of prising tool to try lift up the battery. Instead, just warm up the whole area with a hot air gun or hair drier to soften the glue.

The reason why I say don't use an implement to try lift the battery is because far too many times I've seen punctured & bent batteries come in to this workshop that have to be thrown out for safety reasons. It only takes a grain of sand, or a burr on the spudger and you're risking a potential cell rupture and potential fire.

Just use a bit of heat ( not a lot! ) to soften up the glue and it'll come away with the plastic pull tab.

Paul L Daniels, · Reply

These instructions don't mention putting the 2.5mm screw back in. I found this very challenging because it is so short, so very difficult to line it up to get it back in the hole, and very easy to drop it inside the phone. Take care.

robshopping, · Reply

Non problem with reassembly - just took patience - my is that the phone now does not want to charge the battery. It shows taht the battery is dead and charger needs to be connected but does not charge?

What have I not done coreectly - or at least what can I check to determine the problem?

Thanks

Richard Bebee, · Reply

The grey cable on the top right of the 1st picture might be confusing, it's the connector with cable which you'll disconnect in step 9 only, so you can't see it this way in this phase.

mhejjas, · Reply

Be careful to make sure you don't pinch the clear plastic tab under the mobo when reinstalling. :P

jonathan, · Reply

Box 3 BOx 3 Box 3 petite vis a gauche

bigben8, · Reply

I had trouble with my SIM card at this point. It wouldn't go all the way in - only about 1mm short but enough to keep the phone from being able to read it. It seems that the red screw in this step is the culprit. I loosened it up a bit and the SIM card tray was able to fit flush.

budgetbooksfl, · Reply

Use the 1.6mm screw standoff as leverage against to lift the connector.

Mark, · Reply

Make sure not to pry too much under the flex cable because you will likely damage the gold / silver shining adhesive tape that is located beneath it.

The guide is missing a comment on this and one would not expect the tape there. Check out the photos of step 10 to get an idea of how the tape looks like.

I assume this to be some kind of head-conductive component.

It won't be much of a problem if you damage parts of it though.

But if you peel off / coil up too much of it, it could get too big and the flex cable could get damaged when it's pressed against it.

Stefan, · Reply

be extremely careful to check that there isnt any metallic conductive glue sticking, some may remain attached to the motherboard-connecter position in its space on top of the logicboard

Dai, · Reply

So if that glue does stick to the 'motherboard', does it damage the phone?

Dalton , · Reply

NOTE: When replacing the logic board, be sure this antenna remains exposed and doesn't become trapped under the board.

charlesholt, · Reply

Just wondering if it is possible and where to get one of those indicators

edward, · Reply

what are you talking about here???

Steven Munoz, · Reply

Yeah, would like to know the value of the little blue inductor ... my iPhone 4 doesn't have it any more and I have the worst signal.

PressureFM, · Reply

I wasn't sure how to carefully detach the antennae. Can anyone offer some insight on how to reattach the antennae? Is it supposed to be soldered to the board? Or is it a pin attachment?

kulpsterdaman, · Reply

see that tiny little blue thing just to the left of the antenna connector but before the screw? make sure you DON'T knock that out of place otherwise your iphone becomes a heavy ipod touch (yes. this idiot made that mistake while struggling to get the antenna connector back in - which for the record just clips back in). this would have been a handy tip for me while i was reading the instructions, which apart from that little trinket of information, were very easy to follow.

-dan

dan, · Reply

Be careful, I almost damaged this specific screw by using a Phillips #00 screwdriver. It's screwed in tighter than most others. You will need a Phillips #000 or else your #00 has to be a really sharp one.

Kelvin Leong, · Reply

The cross on top of the screw on my phone is all messed up - not from me stripping it, it just looks like a manufacturing error. The screwdriver won't even fit into the screw, and I can't get it out (I have no idea how they got it in in the first place). Any suggestions?

Mike Machado, · Reply

same here, screw stripped any suggestions?

Gary Woodward,

Couple of ways to get rounded-out-head screws;

1) use a tiny drop of super glue on the top place your screwdriver on the drop/screw, then sprinkle a bit of bicarb-soda on to the wet super glue, it'll harden very rapidly and form a fillet; wait a minute and you should be able to then unscrew the screw.

Be VERY CAREFUL when doing this, because you don't want to have superglue wicking between the screw and the circuit board.

Perhaps practice on some other things first.

I've removed several like this before; frequently I find the culprits for rounded out slots are ham-fisted people trying to do their own repairs in the past.

Paul L Daniels, · Reply

Get a set of these precision screw extractors. I own a small electronics repair shop and I wouldn't be without them. If you buy them remember that the ends are reversible in case you dull one end. http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Precision-Sc...

Joshua, · Reply

Be careful about the very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw - it can spring out when the shield is removed. It must be reinserted prior to installing the shield, with the thick part up and the spring in contact with the gold pad to the right of the screw hole in the case.

Steve Noland, · Reply

INCREDIBLE! Steve this probably happens to people all the time. The "very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw" I will elaborate on. It's not so much around the 4.8mm screw as it actually part of the assembly where the 4.8 mm screw is tightened. I added an arrow to this picture to visually illustrate:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/i...

I had no wifi at all until this was present. I had overlooked the piece and spent hours trying to figure out where it went. BIG THANK YOU to Steve for his comment. After fixing, my wifi was perfect.

Jimmy,

When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless. Steve or someone -- can you explain what is meant by this? My LCD and digitizer now does not work, but I don't think I have any screws in the wrong place.

david,

I have the same issue than David. Could anyone elaborate on the brief note in the manual? Thank you!

Christoph Biehl,

There is a washer under the plate that is held together by the 1.4mm Philips. This might come loose. Be careful not to lose it.

nsolis, · Reply

Confirming this. It's not in the description and it came out when I disconnected the screw. At first I was unsure where it came from, but when I reassembled the phone, the yellow screw didn't make contact, so I realized the washer had to go under the contact plate.

marcx77,

So that small washer behind the 1.4 screw became detached during reassembly. What affect does this have? My phOne started to overheat; I then turned off my wifi and things are fine.. How is this related you think?

mallorypichler,

If a nut under the YELLOW screw is rotating, hold the nut with tweezers.

yujin yamada, · Reply

Somehow i twisted the head off of the 4.8mm screw (ground) during reassembly and not i have terrible wifi. Trying to come up with a solution.... any suggestions?

racaruso90, · Reply

On my phone the "washer" that the 1.4mm screw goes into I think is actually the mounting post that had come detached. I realize afterwards there was therefore no point removing this screw, but I did remove (and put it back afterwards) by holding onto the loose post/washer with tweezers to prevent it turning.

Anthony Berkow, · Reply

Print this image out (step 13) - trust me, you'll need it later!

Alan Shenton, · Reply

The "washer" that a few of the commenters have mentioned isn't a washer nor a broken post. It is a circular nut that helps the WiFi antenna get a good connection to the logic board. It is part of a sandwich: 1.4mm screw head WiFi antenna logic board ++ circular nut. I held it in place with tweezers and then screwed the 1.4mm screw in. Don't lose this nut!

tdroz, · Reply

I found that the 1.4 mm screw measured a little less than 1.1 mm on my phone. So don't be confused by that.

Daniel, · Reply

When I came to reassemble at this step, I noticed the 1.4mm screw no longer had anything to screw to. The nut or washer or whatever it is that you mention has gone. My screen does not work any more. Is this connected and/or is there anything I can do to peplace what is lost?

Chris, · Reply

This screw is supposed to tie into a very small nut that sits under a small u-shaped tab in the EMI shield that is fixed to the PCB. Maybe that nut has moved or got lost. I recommend you to lift that small tab to find it because if loose it could create a short-circuit.

But that screw/nut is absolutely not essential to the LCD. It should work without it.

Christophe De Wolf,

watch for the connector cover here - it tends to be quite "springy" and may fly towards you when you attempt to release the clips

David Iwanicki, · Reply

What do these metal clips look like?

ryanporter, · Reply

Be Careful of a tiny metal piece attached to the black bit on top that acts as the screw spot for the blue screw. I just slid it back on. Hopefully no harm done.

crimney, · Reply

do you have a photo or description?

David Holmes,

The clip actually looks like it might be a ground. it's gold and is folded in two. There's a screw cutout and something that looks like it physically is supposed to touch something. Phone works fine without it, though.

stores, · Reply

the rear camera has an extra long tab which runs under the digitizer cable - be careful not to bend this while removing the camera.

David Iwanicki, · Reply

To avoid damaging the Main Camera, it will probably be better to do Step 18 first before doing this step. This is because part of the camera is actually under the Digitizer and LCD cable.

nsolis, · Reply

There was no screw underneath the warranty sticker or even a place for a screw. Disappointed.

Ed Wiliams, · Reply

I removed by accident the other white sticker on the logic board. What happens now? Will the phone work?

Vit Rozehnal, · Reply

It won't hurt anything.

Joshua,

What are these types of connectors called? anyone know where to order just the connectors? or even better would be extension cables

Chris, · Reply

blue, green and yellow down, orange and red up. red BEFORE orange, as part of the ribbon is UNDER red.

unklbyl

unklbyl, · Reply

Windex didn't work well for me for degreasing the connections. It made the connections worse in fact. Now my digitizer AND my screen don't work.

johnpetraborg, · Reply

It seems that you misunderstood the notes throughout the guide. You should only clean metal to metal contact points, such as the contact area between the EMI fingers and the metal case on the speaker enclosure. Applying Windex in connectors or sockets of any type will almost certainly destroy components in your phone.

Andrew Bookholt,

when i was replacing the logic board a small gold piece came off. It is above the top left corner of the orange box for the LCD cable. What is it for?

romaine, · Reply

If you are replacing any of the cables that connect here, be sure to save the foam from the top of the connector to put on your replacement part. It helps secure the connector once the connector cover is put back during reassembly.

Blarg, · Reply

When re-plugging the yellow connector (the leftmost of the 3 connectors that you disconnected from the top) put the cables behind and not before the metal part with a hole where the EMI Shield 2 clips in. Otherwise you will not be able do step 13.

Philippe Leledy, · Reply

Be carefull of a very small component soldered near the yellow connector. It can pop off and make your front camera irresponsive.

Christophe De Wolf, · Reply

When reassembling, the various connectors have a leading plastic lip that allows you to align and then slowly snap in place. i pushed on the pads on top of the connectors with the flat tool provided in the kit. Also, the first time, i did not press the LCD cable very well, so the phone was working, but no display showing. once i snapped this in place the second time, it worked like a charm.

hansiemys, · Reply

After reassembly, when I changed to the front camera, the display got stuck in shutter mode. The website bellow suggests I lost a microscopic jumper that enables the front camera. I am guessing this happened when I disconnected the 3 connectors. The dang jumper is so small I never even noticed that I lost it. Oh well at least the rear camera still works... http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/54838...

Slobird, · Reply

I ran into a not workin front camera after a screen replacement on Iphone4. I found out that I had broken the tiny jumper on the main board when I pried off the headphone plug. That jumper is next to the right upper corner of the headphone/volume button plug (yellow marked in step 17 of relacement guide), you can see it in the picture as two silvery dots. If your prying tool sits on that jumper when levelling the plug off, it is history. I took a ampoule of conducting silver liquid, but instead of shaking it I took some of the sediment out with a thin wire and aplied a tiny blob over the two remaining soldering pads left. And alas, it worked ! Front camera is ok again. Thanks to those who found out about that jumper.

dl7utx, · Reply

There is a small rectangular rubber bumper on the top of the logic board. You can see it a little at the top of the picture. I knocked mine off and had no idea where it came from! Took my wife forever searching the pictures to locate where it was from.

nickbits, · Reply

Take care to put the small ruber piece into place to protect the ribon cable for the lcd dyplay

Hanspeter, · Reply

The smallest screw below the Digitizer connector is held by a tiny nut which is fixed below the EMI shield. Beware because this thing can get loose easily.

mcbohdo, · Reply

I believe that's the one he's referring to...

Joshua,

Image of rectangular rubber piece

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/835/i...

Rajan, · Reply

Thank you Rajan for this picture. The rubber piece fell out and i was frantically trying to find its spot.

hansiemys,

Yes! Thanks for this pic! I found this little piece in the body of the phone after I removed the logic board and was stumped! Real lifesaver!

Joshua,

how do i remove the 4.8 mm stand off? ifixit instructions arent detailed enough.

Austin, · Reply

I have found that the easiest way to remove these standoffs is to loosen them with a 2.0 or 2.3 mm standard (flat) blade driver bit. Then, once it is loose, you can either loosen it the rest of the way, or for better control, insert your pentalobe driver into the center of it and loosen it the rest of the way. If your pentalobe driver won't turn it, then it is not loose enough, or the end of one of the small screws has broken off in it (actually fairly common).

Best of luck to you! Just ask if you need more info!

Joshua,

When reassembling, ensure the ribbon cables for the connector are between the silver metal and the circuit board. the wifi antenna plate clips into the silver metal.

Victor, · Reply

Note where the little rubber thing is. It's there to protect the digitizer and LCD ribbons curving over the top of the mobo. If you do these a lot, you're going to have a WTF moment when you go to put it back together and you have this short rubber strip....

jonathan, · Reply

where can i buy logic board from the iPhone

jamie, · Reply

be careful when putting the logic board back in: i trapped the lower antenna cable under it (see step 11). Also, it 'hooks in' at the top and rotates down; there is a notch cut into the outer case to capture the top of the motherboard.

awr, · Reply

Missing rubber guard can causing touchscreen sensitivity & accuracy problem.

Otniel Yoreiza, · Reply

Do not forget the rubber piece. When replacing my home button, I noticed this rubber piece fall out of the phone, and couldn't figure out where it went. I left it out, and my touchscreen had all sorts of problem. I thought I had damaged the digitizer ribbon. I even bought a new screen and had similar problems after putting that in. I finally put a makeshift piece of rubber that I cut up into the spot where this rubber piece had gone, and currently haven't had problems for over a week. This rubber piece must suppress interference problems of some kind.

dreyna, · Reply

Great point! I had the logic board put back in and then found this little thing hanging out. I found a "tip" on a different site that showed it going between the rear-facing camera and the logic board! Thanks!

Joshua,

Can we get a better photo of where rubber piece goes? Mine fell off, and I have no idea where to put it back on to.

csuslog, · Reply

It goes on the edge of the logic board where the Digitizer and LCD Panel ribbon cables bend over the Logic Board before they plug into it. The rubber piece protects the ribbon cables from chafing like a bumper and from interferance.

fasthans,

You can see it on the upper left of the Logic Board, just to the right of the camera in the photo for Step 18. It is easier to see if you click on the view huge link to blow up the photo.

fasthans,

Note that when re-installing the logic board, do not forget about the antenna connector near the bottom of the phone. Make sure that it does not get trapped under the logic board when you are placing the logic board in the case.

Scott, · Reply

Ear piece metal connectors: You can see them on step 22. If those are not bent up enough (laying flat) you won't have contact with the logic board... and no more audio from the ear piece. This is what happened to me. I had to unmount it again to bend them and hop the ear piece worked again!

chuvux, · Reply

This was a very tricky part. Just make sure that you don't put pressure on the login board to get it into place, take your time and ease it in. There will be a bit of spring in it when you push down which is a combination of the folded LCD and Digitizer Ribbon Cables and the two copper contacts underneath.

gregjames, · Reply

This was absolutely the hardest part - had to do it over many times. The digitizer ribbon cable kept insisting on folding up under the logic board. Tip: do not let the cable fold up, even it that's how it naturally wants to go, it will be too short.

Julian Boilen, · Reply

Note: During assembly, do not put another screw on the left side just yet. Otherwise you would not be able to install the motherboard in the next step.

taras, · Reply

step 20 speaker screw was stripped from the factory! aaaagh! took some tweaking but got it out using a little drill bit and forcing a standard screwdriver in the divot and cranking it out. the screw is absolutely necessary to reinstall too, so that was tough.

travisray, · Reply

that screw is unscrewable!! I think the factory ruined the cross while assembly and no screwdriver can grab it anymore!!! arrggg... coming to this point it's already so hard.. I don't want to re assemble everything without fixing this home button!!!

supernova, · Reply

the EMI fingers are VERY fragile...

David Iwanicki, · Reply

Agreed. I broke mine off the first time I removed it.

Scott Head, · Reply

Me too, are they that important, can i put it back together without them?

romaine,

'and then there were THREE' yup i broke off one as well. hint on re-assembly; put in the speaker box, and working from left to right, apply a fair amt of downward pressure and use a tiny flat-blade screwdriver to push the tip of the emi fingers toward the speaker box, go left to right so you can put in the screw on the right side when done.

awr, · Reply

what happens if they break off?

bobop10, · Reply

I broke 2 of the 4 off (both on the left side) and haven't noticed any difference in the functioning of the phone.

justinstayton,

I broke off the right-most one (closest to the microphone) and after reassembly my signal strength was poor and dropped easily. I replaced the antenna/speaker unit with one from a 4s (the cable was a touch longer; but, solved with some bending) and made sure to really clean the contacts (and not break any)... long story short, intact fingers and cleaning has resulted in better signal strength than prior to the repair! go figure!

ccfoster, · Reply

I agree they are very fragile! I broke off 1 EMF finger by pressing it down - wish i had read comments 1st! Phone still seems to work Ok, but gave me a scare.

Paul baskeyfield, · Reply

There is a square, metal bar that fits into a slot on the right side of the vibrator. The 1.4mm screw threads into this bar. It fell out when I first flipped it over the phone to remove the screen. Look out for that.

Andy Dittrich, · Reply

When I removed the screw from here I also found a small rubber piece. It is about 8mm long and 2mm wide, and it has a channel down the centre of it. I couldn't figure out where it came from but the phone seems to be perfectly fine without it. I thought it could possibly be some sort of anti-vibration damper for the vibrator although I am not sure. I couldn't see it in any of the pictures.

The Talent, · Reply

You can find ist on picture step 20 - right down under the red circle, between frame an speakerbox

Thorsten, · Reply

The rubber piece Thorsten is describing is a different one, smaller than the one The Talent is mentioning. The one with the channel down the centre of it, I dont know where it goes.

computer, · Reply

If your objective is to remove the front panel only, you do not need to remove any of the "large-headed" 1.5 mm Phillips screws, but only loosen them slightly. Putting these screws back can be quite a hassle, and there's really no need for it. When replacing the front panel, take care of the position of the washers (they should be in between the case and screw head.

klubn, · Reply

i tried using the 'only loosen' method on half, and found out because of the washers, they interfered during reassembly. it was very easy to replace them by setting the phone down on its side (propped up so as not to tip) and use a tweezer to put in the washer then screws, it was simple.

awr, · Reply

I used tweezers. Worked great. Til i applied too much pressure and one of the washers went whizzing away into oblivion.

crimney,

I also used very fine tweezers (from a swiss army knife) to hold the washer and screw from the side as I positioned the screw over the hole, and then placed carefully the screwdriver tip onto the screw before releasing. worked fine. I found this the hardest part of the whole reassemble process.

Victor, · Reply

However, the four "1.5 mm Phillips screws", in each of the four corners, will need to be completely removed (and, subsequently, replaced during re-assembly).

klubn, · Reply

I just loosened them and it worked fine!

Leigh Ellis, · Reply

Removing the washer and screw is easy, but getting them back on is extremely hard unless you have midget fingers. The magnetic driver really doesn't help, just keeps dislodging the washer in its place when attempting to to reinsert screw. Using a non magnetic Phillips 0.

Chris, · Reply

I cannot get the flat headed screws out for the life of me - I've been trying for about half an hour! any tips?

kxthleen, · Reply

A small approx 8mm by 3mm by 1mm black piece of rubber fell out of the phone when I turned it over. Any idea where it's from? Thanks.

Courtney, · Reply

happened to me too.. did you ever hear anything from anyone else?

sgoodwin,

If it's square then it could be the piece that sits next to the dock connector on top of the little black speaker? Do you have a photo of it?

Dan Simon, · Reply

This is the photo:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/543...

Any idea where this goes?

Rajan,

Found it. It's clearly mentioned in step 18.

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/835/i...

Rajan,

Great guide. When you are prying the glass screen off be extremely careful not to lift the top of the too high. If you do lift it too high then the glass at the bottom of the phone will easily crack.

jeffchambers, · Reply

My glass refuses to budge ! I broke two ipod tools trying to get the glass off ! Reassembling phone, will try again some other time... There has to be an easier way to get the glass off...

Demetre, · Reply

If you use a hair dryer to soften the glue, it seems to do the trick. Just dont hold too close to melt anything. Did this with an Atrix a few times.

Jim, · Reply

Definitely use a hairdryer to loosen the glue below the power button to get the spudger started.

BradfordB, · Reply

WHYYYY DID YOU not telling that screen NEED TO BE PREHEATED at least by hair dryer ???? MY LCD is DEAD now !!!

mail, · Reply

It is indeed easy to pinch the digitizer cable in particular between the top of the glass and the metal backing underneath. Be careful.

jonathan, · Reply

one of the cables has a fold or something making it 'double' so there are really THREE cables that must be fed through the hole (one just doesn't go anywhere). I used a tiny tweezer to aid with re-routing the cables and it was FAR easier.

awr, · Reply

If you do have to replace the Camera Ring, I find it much easier to put some double sided 3m on the Display where the ring would go, then put the ring ON the camera, not the display. Also if you need to replace the camera ring, your prob gonna have to replace the ear screen, its easier in the long run just to replace it. Please do not glue either piece on.

Mark, · Reply

Sounds dumb but make sure you remove the (usually blue) protective sheet from the mirror surface on the interior of the new display. I didn't and I had to redo the whole process!

Colin, · Reply

CAUTION! When rerouting the LCD and Digitizer cables, DO NOT PULL ON THEM! I tried to re situate the Digitizer cable in order to mount onto the speaker enclosure, which broke the digitizer right off.

Henry, · Reply

This is the only part that was a little tricky for me. When I was reinstalling the LCD panel it took me a few tries to get the connectors and cables through the holes correctly, and not pinched by the frame. Take it slow and be gentle.

jefferydunn, · Reply

My bf claims I have to replace the LCD if I take it off. Is that true?

Crystal , · Reply

This part was very tricky because you need to make sure you have enough slack from the LCD and Digitizer cables. Take your time to make sure that the cables are fully through, even the slightest pinch will be enough for this to not reach and you have to redo it again (a massive pain if you've already started the reassembly. - A good way to test this is to before you reassemble try placing the logic board on top where the LCD and Digitizer cables will fit into, if they reach fine then you are good, if not then adjust the cables again until you know they are through completely, this saves you having to disassemble again if its not correct. - Good Luck and Take your time!

gregjames, · Reply

It's easy to get the digitizer cable caught and sandwiched when reassembling, make sure you carefully feed it through. I got everything almost assembled and then the digitizer ribbon cable wouldn't reach the connector! I was stuck for 45 mins till I figured it out.

Slawek, · Reply

Had to back track to this step as the feed through got folded a bit and I couldn't clamp down one of the digitizer cables..... all in all a fantastic tutorial.

Thanks!

kaykills, · Reply

For some reason when I put the phone back together the screen is dark on the upper left corner. The touch sensitivity works perfectly and the button replacement went well.

subzerodeath, · Reply

I received a dodgy digitiser - even when i took the screen off again the cables were not the right length.

alex, · Reply

I ripped the LCD cable pulling it too hard, is it fixable?

Andy, · Reply

At this point make sure that you don't have any broken glass left on the phone. I had, and the screen wouldn't go all the way down.

Sebastian, · Reply

What happens if it do not take the label??

leandro19x, · Reply

thank you Andrew!

Vale Bet, · Reply

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