Xbox 360 Red Ring of Death Fix Kit

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Fix a red ringed (RROD) Xbox 360.

Use this guide to install iFixit's Red Ring of Death Fix Kit.

Reflowing the motherboard after completing Step 49 of this guide (before you install the RROD fix kit) both provides a higher chance of success in fixing red ring failures and also safeguards against future failures.

Sections (continued)
Tools
Relevant Parts
Image #1

Edit Step 1 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Grasp the hard drive assembly and press the release button while lifting its front edge.

  • Remove the hard drive assembly from the top vent.

Image #1

Edit Step 2 Bottom Vent  ¶ 

  • Stand the console vertically with the bottom edge facing up.

  • Throughout the following opening procedure, the finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool can be used in place of a spudger.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger or the edge of an Xbox 360 opening tool into the small gap at the front edge of the bottom vent.

  • Pry the front edge of the bottom vent away from the faceplate.

Image #1

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • In the next few steps, you will use the tip of a spudger or the finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool to release the clips along the left and right sides of the bottom vent. Their locations are highlighted in red.

  • You will insert the tool into the holes molded into the white plastic side case pieces.

Image #1

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • To release the clips, work from the front edge of the bottom vent.

  • While slightly lifting the front edge of the bottom vent, use the tip of a spudger to push the clips closest to the front of the bottom vent towards the inside of the console.

Image #1

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Repeat the same process to release the two center clips on the bottom vent.

Image #1

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of your spudger to release the clips on the bottom vent nearest the back of the Xbox.

Image #1

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Remove the bottom vent from the 360.

Image #1

Edit Step 8 Faceplate  ¶ 

  • Insert the edge of a spudger between the faceplate and the outer casing near the power button.

  • Run your spudger along the edge of the faceplate to release the clips securing it to the front of the console.

  • You may also accomplish this task by using the edge of the Xbox 360 opening tool, but it may scratch the plastic case.

  • Alternatively, you can use your hands to carefully pull the faceplate away from the Xbox.

Image #1

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Repeat the same motions as previously mentioned to release the left side of the faceplate.

Image #1

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the faceplate from the front face of the console.

Image #1

Edit Step 11 Top Vent  ¶ 

  • Stand the console vertically with the top edge facing up.

  • The top vent is secured to the console via clips. The first two clips are located underneath the top vent closest to the faceplate, as shown in the pictures.

Image #1

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the small gaps previously mentioned to release the clips.

  • You may also use the long finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool to accomplish this task.

Image #1

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • In the next few steps, you will use the tip of a spudger or the finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool to release the clips along the left and right sides of the top vent. Their locations are highlighted in red.

Image #1

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • To release the clips, work from the middle of the top vent.

  • While slightly lifting the front edge of the top vent, use the tip of a spudger to push the clips closest to the center of the top vent towards the inside of the console.

Image #1

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of your spudger to release the clip on the top vent nearest the back of the Xbox's upper case.

Image #1

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • The last clip is hidden underneath the rubber foot nearest the back of the console.

  • Use the tip of your spudger to release the clip on the top vent nearest the back of the Xbox.

  • Remove the top vent from the 360.

Image #1

Edit Step 17 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • To continue, you must peel the warranty sticker off the console. Be aware that this will void your console's warranty agreement with Microsoft. Proceed at your own risk.

  • Carefully peel the warranty sticker off the console.

Image #1

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • The upper and lower cases are attached via several latches, located in the front and back of the console. These latches must be disengaged to separate the upper case from the console.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to release the following latches:

    • Above the front-facing USB ports.

    • Beneath the front-facing USB ports.

    • Above the Memory Unit slots.

Image #1

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger and pry upwards to release the last remaining latch located above the eject button.

Image #1

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the front portion of the lower case to ensure that the latches in the front have been completely released.

Image #1

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • The upper and lower cases are held together by seven release latches located on the back of the console. Their locations are highlighted in red.

Image #1

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Press the Xbox 360 opening tool down into the clips securing the lower case to the upper case near the I/O ports.

  • While pressing down on the tool, push the lower and upper cases apart to separate the retaining clips.

Image #1

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • While pushing the upper and lower cases apart, use the tip of a spudger or the finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool to push the long clip highlighted in red toward the center of the 360.

  • The clip should release, leaving the clips near the power connector as the only thing holding the upper and lower cases together.

Image #1

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Press the Xbox 360 opening tool down into the two remaining clips near the power connector.

  • Push the upper and lower cases apart to fully release the retaining clips.

Image #1

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Orient the console so that the front portion is facing downwards.

  • Grasp the back portion of the lower case and lift it upwards to separate it from the console.

  • Be careful not to excessively bend the lower case near the power plug, as it can crack easily.

Image #1

Edit Step 26 Eject Button  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to release the clip securing the eject button to the metal casing.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the eject button and the optical drive.

  • Pry the eject button off its retaining posts and remove it from the 360.

  • This can also be accomplished using an Xbox 360 opening tool.

Image #1

Edit Step 27 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the six silver 64 mm T10 Torx screws securing the upper case to the metal casing.

Image #1

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Orient the console so that the upper case is facing upwards.

  • Lift the upper case straight up and remove it from the console.

Image #1

Edit Step 29 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • Peel the silver tape securing the optical drive to the metal casing.

Image #1

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the optical drive upwards to gain clearance to disconnect the SATA and power connectors located on the backside of the optical drive.

  • Don't try to completely remove the optical drive just yet. Two cables still connect it to the motherboard.

Image #1

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Grab the power connector by its cables and pull it straight out of its socket on the optical drive.

  • Disconnect the SATA data connector from its socket on the optical drive by pulling it straight away.

Image #1

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Lift the optical drive assembly out of the metal casing.

Image #1

Edit Step 33 Cooling Fan Duct  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the small rectangular opening on the top of the cooling fan duct.

  • Carefully release the fan duct retaining clip and remove the fan duct from the Xbox.

  • The clip can alternatively be released using the metal finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool.

Image #1

Edit Step 34 Dual Fans  ¶ 

  • While lifting the metal chassis strip above the dual fans, pull the fans toward the center of the motherboard.

  • Do not completely remove the dual fan assembly yet. Its cable is still attached to the motherboard.

Image #1

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Lift the dual fan connector straight up from its socket on the motherboard.

  • Some fan connectors have a locking tab. If yours has a locking tab, be sure to depress it while disconnecting the fan from the motherboard.

  • Remove the dual fan assembly from the console.

Image #1

Edit Step 36 Motherboard  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to release the clips securing the RF module shield along the top and the left edge of the RF module.

  • It may be easier to use your fingernail to release the clips from the RF module.

  • Remove the RF module shield from the console.

Image #1

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Remove three 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the RF module to the metal chassis.

Image #1

Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • Grasp the RF module and lift it straight up to disconnect it from its socket on the motherboard.

  • Remove the RF module from the console.

Image #1

Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the motherboard to the metal casing:

    • Nine gold 11 mm T10 Torx screws.

    • Eight black 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws.

  • If you are reassembling your Xbox 360 after installing the Red Ring of Death Fix Kit, the eight T8 Torx screws circled in orange are not reused.

Image #1

Edit Step 40  ¶ 

  • Turn the Xbox over, being careful not to let the motherboard fall out of the chassis.

  • Lift the motherboard assembly from its front edge.

  • Be careful not to damage the sockets as you rotate the motherboard away from the metal casing.

  • Remove the motherboard assembly from the metal casing.

Image #1

Edit Step 41 GPU Heat Sink  ¶ 

  • Insert the tip of a small flathead screwdriver between the X clamp and its retaining post on the heat sink.

  • Pry the X clamp away from its retaining post until it is lifted above the small groove cut into the retaining post.

Image #1

Edit Step 42  ¶ 

  • Insert your screwdriver parallel to the motherboard between the X clamp and its retaining post.

  • Twist the screwdriver to fully release the X clamp from its retaining post.

  • Repeat this process for all four corners of the X clamp.

  • When removing the last corner of the X clamp and holding the motherboard upside down, be sure to catch the GPU heat sink to avoid damage from it falling.

Image #1

Edit Step 43  ¶ 

  • To reinstall the X clamp, first start by attaching two corners to the posts on the heat sink.

  • While holding the third arm of the X clamp down against the post attached to the heat sink, use a small flathead screwdriver to pry the X clamp away from the heat sink post.

  • As you pry, press down on the arm of the X clamp until you "walk" it down into the retaining groove cut into the post attached to the heat sink.

  • Repeat this process for the fourth arm of the X clamp.

Image #1

Edit Step 44  ¶ 

  • Remove the GPU heat sink.

  • Before reinstalling the GPU heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste.

  • If you need to mount the heat sink back onto the motherboard, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

Image #1

Edit Step 45 CPU Heat Sink  ¶ 

  • Insert the tip of a small flathead screwdriver between the X clamp and its retaining post on the heat sink.

  • Pry the X clamp away from its retaining post until it is lifted above the small groove cut into the retaining post.

  • If necessary, insert your screwdriver parallel to the motherboard between the X clamp and its retaining post. Twist the screwdriver to fully release the X clamp from its retaining post.

  • Repeat this process for all four corners of the X clamp.

  • When removing the last corner of the X clamp and holding the motherboard upside down, be sure to catch the CPU heat sink to avoid damage from it falling.

  • Remove the CPU heat sink from the motherboard.

Image #1

Edit Step 46 Red Ring of Death Fix Kit  ¶ 

  • The X-clamps are not reused when installing the red ring of death fix kit.

  • Now that the heat sinks are off both processors, use a plastic spudger to remove all of the old thermal paste residue from the faces of both processors and the inner faces of the heat sinks.

  • Work slowly as you remove the old residue, as many sensitive components are soldered near the processors. If damaged, you may need a whole new motherboard

  • It is best to use a solvent such as ArctiClean to dissolve the old thermal paste and remove all residue before applying new paste. Alternatively, you can use a mild solvent such as a high purity rubbing alcohol.

  • You can also use many classic dry-deoxidating sprays: spray it on the paste then rub it; you will remove the paste almost effortlessly and with no residues.

  • Now is also a good time to clean any dust out from between the fins of both heat sinks.

Image #1

Edit Step 47  ¶ 

  • After cleaning, the mating faces of the heat sinks and the processors should look as shown.

  • Before proceeding any further, now is the perfect time to reflow the solder on the motherboard. Reflowing provides a higher chance of success in fixing red ring failures and is not hard to accomplish. All that is required is a heat gun. We have a guide that makes it easy.

Image #1

Edit Step 48  ¶ 

  • Flip the motherboard over.

  • If your motherboard does not have RAM chips on its underside like the board pictured, skip this step.

  • Peel off the four silicone thermal pads stuck to the RAM chips on the bottom of the board.

Image #1

Edit Step 49  ¶ 

  • Use the 1/4" drive end of the included 6-in-1 screwdriver with no bit inserted to remove the four X-clamp posts from both the CPU and GPU heat sinks.

Image #1

Edit Step 50  ¶ 

  • Apply a thin layer of thermal paste to the areas highlighted in red.

  • If you have never applied thermal paste, we have a guide that makes it easy.

  • After applying thermal paste to the processors, it is time to reattach the heat sinks one at a time. In our case, we attached the CPU heat sink first.

Image #1

Edit Step 51  ¶ 

  • This step is performed with the motherboard out of the chassis.

  • Insert a machine screw through each of the four holes around the CPU heat sink, with their heads on the back side of the board.

  • While holding the head of the screw, place a nylon washer then a metal washer over the threads.

    • The order of the washers is important. Do not put the metal washer on first.

  • When attaching the CPU heat sink, be sure the fins are aligned with the air flow from the fans (as seen in the third picture). Having the flat side of the fins perpendicular to the air flow will cause your Xbox 360 to overheat.

  • Using the large flathead screwdriver bit, tighten the screws into the CPU heat sink. First lightly tighten the four screws in an X-shaped pattern as seen in the second picture, then follow the same X-shaped sequence to really torque the screws down.

  • Don't be afraid of over-tightening the screws - the pressure between the heat sinks and processors caused by sufficiently torqued screws is needed to squeeze the processors back against the board.

  • Repeat the same process to attach your GPU heat sink.

Image #1

Edit Step 52  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of your small flathead screwdriver or another thin and sharp object to carefully pull up a corner of the blue or white plastic sheet covering the adhesive on the bottom of both heat sinks.

  • Be careful not to wrinkle or peel up the adhesive in the process.

  • Peel the protective sheets off the adhesive on both heat sinks.

Image #1

Edit Step 53  ¶ 

  • Lightly clean the surface of the two chips highlighted in red on the first picture.

  • Be sure to position the heat sinks correctly before you stick them down, as the adhesive is extremely strong and sensitive to being repositioned.

  • Stick the two heat sinks down against the top of the two chips highlighted in red on the first picture, being sure the fins are aligned as seen in the second picture.

  • When reinstalling the optical drive, be sure both the power and SATA cables do not interfere with the heat sink attached closest to their sockets on the motherboard.

Image #1

Edit Step 54  ¶ 

  • If your motherboard lacks RAM chips on its bottom face, it is not necessary to apply thermal pads.

  • Remove the clear and colored plastic backing material from all four thermal pads.

Image #1

Edit Step 55  ¶ 

  • Stick the thermal pads down against the RAM chips on the bottom of the board.

    • The thermal pads included in your kit might be slightly different colors than those pictured.

  • Reinstall the motherboard back into the chassis and reassemble your Xbox 360.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions from Step 42 in reverse order.

For more information, check out the Xbox 360 device page.

Required Tools

Arctic Silver ArctiClean

$7.95 · 50+ In stock

Related Products

Xbox 360 Red Ring of Death Fix Kit

$29.95 · 24 In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

I didn't have a heat gun so I disabled the fan and left the 360 on for 1/2 hour to heat up the weak solder points and then let it cool down for 1/2 hour before re-assembling the 360. This gave me all green lights.

ChasCam580, · Reply

Unfortunately this repair only lasted a few months on my xbox, going to try it again and hope for better results.

zima539, · Reply

When you take it apart, I recommend following our reflow guide before installing the RROD fix kit. I recently did this to an X360 that the RROD kit fixed only momentarily and afterwards it worked good as new.

Andrew Bookholt,

I did the relowing of the motherboard this weekend, hopefully it lasts longer than the previous repair.

zima539,

I followed this guide and even performed the reflowing procedure. It worked perfectly. I noticed that when I took my Xbox 360 apart there were no existing thermal pads on the RAM chips on the underside of the mobo. Perhaps this caused the problem...? Either way this guide was thorough and easy to follow. Be sure to read ahead a step or two because some things are described generally in one step, then in better detail in the step after.

joekane1, · Reply

first of all -> THANK YOU iFIXIT!

my xbox died on me 3 days before the MW3 release. 3 red lights! what a timing.

i followed the guide and did everything slow and careful as instructed. (didnt do the reflow.)

the thermal paste thing was a bit tricky wasnt really sure how much i

have to put on the CPU and GPU to provide the right cooling but after

assembling all back together and hitting the "on" button the green lights came on!

haven't tried to play a longer session but i definetly will do this weekend with MW3.

Tsimi, · Reply

my 360 didn't have the three lights, but it still didn't work. First I thought there was something with the AV cables because the power button was green like normal yet there was no audio or video response coming from the TV. I tried swapping cables and that didn't work so I figured it was the xbox. I tried this fix and it worked great! So if anyone is wondering if this can fix a broken xbox only if that xbox has a RROD, perhaps give this fix a try because it worked for me.

Alexander DeBavelaere, · Reply

I have a question, can i do it only by changing the 4 thermal pads, and not moving on those x things? like, not changing anything on the cpu or gpu, please someone let me know asap

SergioSilva, · Reply

no change.didnt work

terry, · Reply

What's the best place to purchase all the parts in repair kit, but individually. I don't need everything provided, but just the heat sinks etc.

Eric Long, · Reply

first off the instructions were great i followed everything didn't have a heat gun so i tried what the first commenter tried with just lettting it run without the fan let it cool still nothing I used rubber washers instead of nylon washers could that be whats preventing my xbox from working? any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated

tdawg, · Reply

This worked perfectly! Took a bit longer than I thought, but I went slow with the X clamps and decided to reuse them as well. Just paid for a $5.00 tube of thermal paste. $5.00 and no more RROD, thanks!

avoca120, · Reply

I didn't have 3 red rings before the repair, but I knew it was overheating as it couldn't run a game for long, but was fine with some arcade games and DVDs. After the repair, and removing lots and lots of dust that has accumulated over 6 years, it NOW has the 3 red rings. Did I not put enough paste on? Any ideas would be helpful.

larzjudith, · Reply

Guide worked great. Cleaned off all the old thermal paste with isopropyl then used a heat gun to reflow the solder. To all those wondering if you have to remove the x-clamps; the answer is yes. The reason the consoles RRoD is because of the x-clamps putting too much stress on the motherboard. Just make sure you clean everything really well and be careful. Also, I used MX-2 instead of the crap they send with the kit.

fliprealsorry101, · Reply

i did all the thing it said in the guide to do worked great my xbox is working again but now i cant sink my wireless controllers to my xbox iv read online that it might be the RF that needs replacing i just want to see if anyone can tell if there is anything i can try before i buy the part

bradley, · Reply

Just used your Red Ring of Death Kit with success. Did the thermal rework too. It has been working for over an hour now so looks ok. Cooking the chips on "High" for four minutes was a bit scary but it survived. I have a thermal rework gun which I check with a thermocouple temperature probe which plugs in to my test meter. If I may make one small criticism it would help to have actual temperatures where you have stated "Low" and "High" Just ball park figures would be enough. This is the first use I've made of the rework gun so still building up skill with the technique. Obviously the effective temperature will vary according to the nozzle distance from the job. Otherwise very good kit and excellent instructions. Also worked with your Android app running on my tablet next to the job. Fantastic. Have fitted very many heat sinks as I have built computers since they ran on steam so no problem here. I'm a retired Electronics Engineer and will be 80 in December this year. Hands as steady as a surgeon but need glasses to work now. Many thanks. Keep up your good work.

Pete Green, · Reply

Well that made 2 hours of my time worth it, my old 360 runs again. Thanks to Ifixit for the kit and the guide on how to do it. Well worth the cost.

mittelk, · Reply

This technique works. Use a heat gun. Don't try any of the dopey "hack" fixes, like wrapping your Xbox in a towel, running it without the fans, or putting it in the oven. This is iFixit - they show you the right way to do things. Their guides work for a reason - they know what they're doing.

You CAN buy thermal compound, cleaning solution, and even the screws & washers elsewhere, but these dudes deserve your cash.

bundito, · Reply

i had the code E74 problem for my xbox 360 elite. the Ring Of Death kit fixed the problem. now my elite works like a charm. it had 1 ring on bottom right corner of the console. thank you for the support

Mathology317, · Reply

I originally tried to fix my Red Ring of Death issue by just applying new thermal paste and not using iFixit's RRoD kit. Unfortunately, the repair did not work. So stopped being cheap and decided to buy the iFixit RRoD kit. Reflowing my XBOX's motherboard and applying the iFixit RRoD kit worked like a charm. GTA 5...here I come!

hero, · Reply

Thank you for the guide and the repair kit. It unfortunately didn't solve my issue, but everything went smoothly and if I were to get another old Xbox - for repair or for a friend - I'd look here first to getting it up to par and to increase its life.

And to those who go "The video wasn't all that descriptive about x"... READ! Seeing can help, but the text guide was perfect at describing every aspect of my Xbox's dis-assembly.

markwatermaniac, · Reply

this didnt work at all im afraid, it would have been great if it did. but nothing has changed.

Ben Kiddle, · Reply

So successfully installed RROD kit and did a very cautious reflow... had green lights and went to bed. Woke up to continue reassembling unit and it was right back to 3 light RROD... I have just done a slightly less cautious reflow and am hopeing it will ressurect the console... if it doesn't well there goes the cost of the kit, 30 bucks in shipping and an unhappy family.

Kassandra Ariel Sherry, · Reply

Just received my kit and installed it in my RROD Xbox 360. Followed all the steps as well as the reflow and thermal paste guides. After reassembling the whole thing carefully... the kit unfortunately didn't work.

neilkrentz, · Reply

Do i really need arctic silver thermal paste or i can use any other?

vladtiry, · Reply

You can use a different type of thermal paste, but we recommend Arctic Silver.

Taylor Arnicar,

Hi all,

I did the advices in the guide but unfortunately, it doesn't work. Now i have two red lights before i had three. Anybody can help me ?

Thank you.

garcialoic1, · Reply

This RROD fix kit didn't work for me, sadly.

Julian, · Reply

I don't care what anybody says, this guide actually worked for me. I made an account just to say that. Although, I will tell you, after immediately following the guide I got RROD again. What I did was towel trick (Google it ;) my console for a good 45 minutes. I then, let it cool for like another 45 minutes. Next thing you know.... :D

Shohid Islam, · Reply

You can avoid this step by pulling the front cover off. Just make sure you don't break the springs for the USB bay area.

Repair Doctor, · Reply

Hello, thank you ifix for this guide, I followed this guide, I got stuck at some point but I resolved it. Also I want to share this resource: Step by Step guide to fix Xbox 360 errors it helped me go through all the things associated with Xbox 360 and the troubleshooting of errors. Hope this can also help you all.

Christopher Sage, · Reply

I found it easier to open these clips using the pointy end of the spudger rather than the flat end. Just slide it in against the side of the case and the clip will pop off.

dave, · Reply

There is an alternate to breaking the seal. If you open the back first starting with the opposite side of the sticker you can get the rear to "Clam Open" retaining the seal.

Eric, · Reply

Cleaning out the fan now, will help problems in the future.

Joe Begley, · Reply

Super easy as long as you have that tool and follow the directions. Having never opened the xbox before I was able to do this in 15 min. And im sure now that I know how to do it, next time will be even quicker.

Thanks for the great instructions!

Lasher M, · Reply

for whatever reason the T8 screws holding the RF receiver on my unit were torqued on pretty hard. almost impossible to get off. IS taking the RF off really necessary?

matt337, · Reply

Place a piece of cardboard on the motherboard to protect it from scratches in case the screwdriver slips.

Aaron, · Reply

The instructions on how to remove the x clamps are insufficient. I had a great deal of trouble with them. The small flathead screwdriver included with the kit is too small and weak to do the job. I ended up Googling other how-to's. I used a larger screwdriver and FINALLY popped them off, however as careful as I tried to be in the process I accidentally damaged a few traces around the screw hole. Repair was a failure, still have 3 red lights. Waste of time and money.

sbrasfield1, · Reply

Is the x-clamp supposed to be reinstalled? It's not pictured in any part of the instructions after this point, so I did not reinstall it, and putting the xbox back together now is different than taking it apart.

amplifiedgir, · Reply

The X-clamps are not reused. Since you install machine screws in place of the X-clamp mounting posts, you do not reinstall the eight screws highlighted in orange on step 41.

Andrew Bookholt,

what size screws and washers are those?

Matt, · Reply

M5 x 10 I beleive

Marc,

missing informations i found amazing book on the web helped me fixing mine and i'm now fixing my friends xboxs :D

here is how to fix your xbox your self easiest way

Maryem, · Reply

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