PowerBook G4 Aluminum 15" 1.5-1.67 GHz Display Data Cable Replacement

Replace a worn-out or broken display data cable on your 1.5-1.67 GHz 15" Aluminum PowerBook G4.

Use this guide to replace a worn-out display data cable.

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use a coin to turn the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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Edit Step 2 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the four Phillips screws from the memory door.

  • Slide the memory door away from the memory compartment.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 8 screws:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips in the battery compartment, on either side of the battery contacts.

    • Two 12 mm Phillips on either side of the memory compartment.

    • Four 16 mm Phillips along the hinge.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees clockwise, so that the power receptacle faces you.

  • Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws.

  • When replacing these screws, you must place each screw in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, and go out from there.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Turn the computer 90 degrees clockwise so that the hinge faces you.

  • Remove the bottom 5 mm Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two total).

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees clockwise, so that the ports face you.

  • Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws.

  • When replacing these screws, you must place each screw in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, and go out from there.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Turn the computer over and open the display.

  • Remove the two 1.5 mm hex screws in either corner, next to the display (a T6 Torx driver will work, but repeated use will strip the screws).

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Grasp the back corners of the upper case and pull up. Do not pull the upper case off yet; you still need to disconnect the keyboard and trackpad cable.

  • Lift the back of the case up and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Rotate the upper case up and toward the screen, so that the upper case rests against it.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the orange tape securing the trackpad ribbon to the logic board.

  • Disconnect the trackpad ribbon from the logic board.

  • Remove the upper case from the computer.

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Edit Step 11 Right Ambient Light Sensor  ¶ 

    • Remove the 9.5 mm silver Phillips screw from the top of the right ambient light sensor board.

    • Remove the small 3 mm black Phillips screw from the bottom of the board.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Lift the right ambient light sensor board from the computer.

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Edit Step 13 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Remove the two black Phillips screws from the right speaker.

  • Lift the speaker away from the logic board and place it aside

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use your fingernail to flip up the black plastic flap locking the modem cable in place.

  • Slide the modem cable from its connector.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the 13 indicated cables, removing tape as necessary.

  • When re-installing the board, make sure the two small connectors at the right hand side are above the board before inserting the screws.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 8 Phillips screws from the logic board:

    • Three 6.5 mm in the upper left corner.

    • Five 4.5 mm around the edges.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Two cables still connect to the logic board and must be removed before pulling the board entirely out of the computer.

  • Use a spudger to gently (very gently) pry up the left side of the logic board.

  • If the logic board does not immediately come free, it may be necessary to soften the thermal paste between the logic board and heat sink. You can soften the thermal compound using a hairdryer. Move the hairdryer back and forth between the two fans about one inch above the logic board for one minute. At this point, the logic board should now come free easily.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the DC-In connector from the left side of the logic board.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the battery cable from the front, left corner of the logic board.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Grasp the logic board at the left edge with one hand and at the thinnest section with the other hand. Lift the left edge of the board up to approximately a 30 degree angle (if you don't have your protractor handy, just lift until the DVI port clears the right hinge).

  • Once the logic board clears the ports, slide it out to the left.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Important: when you reinstall a logic board, you'll need to replace the thermal paste that goes between the processor on the logic board and the heat sink. Failure to remove the old paste and apply a new layer can cause the computer to overheat and sustain damage.

  • To properly reassemble your PowerBook, you'll have to clean off and replace the old thermal compound. Use our Applying Thermal Paste Guide to prepare the processor and heat sink surfaces.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Use a firm plastic edge to scrape the thermal material off the processor.

  • When replacing the logic board, make sure all cables are routed around and above - not under - it, and to connect the two cables that do go beneath before pushing the board into place.

  • Place the logic board back in the computer, trying not to move it around once the processor has come into contact with the newly-applied thermal paste.

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Edit Step 23 Speakers  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 3 mm black Phillips screws from the left ambient light sensor board.

  • Lift the left ambient light sensor board out of the computer, removing tape as necessary.

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Deroute the Bluetooth and RJ-11 cables from around the left side of the speaker.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the speaker cable from the DC/Sound card.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Remove the 4 mm hex nut from below the left speaker.

  • Remove the 3 mm black Phillips screw from bottom left corner of the speaker assembly, to the left of the battery compartment.

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Lift the speaker assembly (including the right speaker) out of the computer.

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Edit Step 28 PC Card Cage  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 4.2 mm silver Phillips screws from the left corners of the PC card cage.

  • Next the two 6.8 mm shouldered screws go on the right side of the card cage.

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Lift the PC card cage up and remove it from the computer.

  • When replacing the PC card cage, make sure you attach it to the post on the metal eject button.

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Edit Step 30 Display  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 4.2 mm silver Phillips screws from either side of the large orange Airport ribbon.

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Lift the Airport card out of the computer and slide a spudger between the card and the antenna connector to disconnect the cable from the card.

  • Deroute the antenna cable from the side of the card, removing tape as necessary.

  • You don't need to remove the Airport card entirely. We're just trying to free up the Airport antenna cable.

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Using a spudger, pry up the Bluetooth board from the cavity in front of the battery compartment.

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the Bluetooth antenna cable from the Bluetooth board.

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Close the display and turn the hinge side of the computer to face you.

  • Remove the remaining Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two screws total).

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Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Open the display and turn the computer so the screen faces you.

  • Remove the 10 mm T8 Torx screw closer to the display on either side of the hinge (two screws total).

  • When replacing the display, make sure that the right screw pins down the ground loop from the display data cable.

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Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Be sure to support the display with one hand while removing the final two screws.

  • Remove the longer 13 mm shouldered T8 Torx screw remaining on either hinge (two screws total).

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Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Lift the display off.

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Edit Step 38 Rear Display Bezel  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 11 mm X 1.5 mm hex screws near the lower left and right corners of the display.

  • A T6 Torx screwdriver works just fine.

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Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the front display bezel and the plastic rim attached to the rear bezel near the lower left corner of the display.

  • Do not insert the spudger between the plastic rim of the rear display bezel and the aluminum rear display bezel plate.

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Edit Step 40  ¶ 

  • With your spudger still inserted under the front display bezel, run it around the lower left corner of the display.

  • Rotate the spudger away from yourself to pry the rear display bezel off the aluminum tabs on the front display bezel.

  • Work your way down the side of the display until the rear display bezel has been separated from the front display bezel.

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Edit Step 41  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the rear display bezel and the clutch cover.

  • Twist the spudger to unclip the rear bezel from the clutch cover.

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Edit Step 42  ¶ 

  • Repeat the previous steps to separate the right side of the rear display bezel from the display.

  • Use your spudger to pry the plastic retaining clips on the rear display bezel over the raised aluminum tabs on the front display bezel.

  • At this point, the clips on the left and right edges of the rear display bezel should be free from the raised aluminum tabs on the front display bezel. If they are not, use a spudger to pry them past the front display bezel.

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Edit Step 43  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the lower edge of the rear display bezel and push it toward the top edge of the display, releasing the clips along the top edge of the rear display bezel.

  • Rotate the rear display bezel toward yourself and lay it flat on the table.

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Edit Step 44  ¶ 

  • Lift the antenna board out of the clutch cover.

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Edit Step 45  ¶ 

  • Peel back the three edges of the antenna board cover and remove it from over the antenna board.

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Edit Step 46  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up off the antenna board.

  • The black antenna connects near the center of the antenna board.

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Edit Step 47 Clutch Cover  ¶ 

  • If necessary, remove the two pieces of tape covering the inverter leads.

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Edit Step 48  ¶ 

  • The inverter is an extremely thin circuit board that is very delicate and easily cracked. Take care when handling.

  • Use a spudger to raise the end of the inverter out from the clutch cover.

  • Lift the inverter enough to access both cable connectors.

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Edit Step 49  ¶ 

  • Disconnect both inverter cables by pulling their connectors away from the sockets on the inverter.

  • Remove the inverter from your display and set it aside.

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Edit Step 50  ¶ 

  • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the LCD retaining bracket to the front display bezel.

  • Lift the LCD retaining bracket off the front display bezel.

  • Some machines do not have this bracket. If your machine is missing the bracket, remove the five screws and proceed to the next step.

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Edit Step 51  ¶ 

  • The clutch cover is constructed from aluminum and is held on to the clutch hinges with metal clips that require a good deal of force to remove. Proceed with caution.

  • Use your thumbs to push the clutch cover away from the clutch hinges.

  • While pressing with your thumbs, rotate the clutch cover toward yourself about its long edge to pop it off the clutch hinge.

  • It may be necessary to wiggle the clutch cover while pressing it away from the clutch hinges to release the retaining clips.

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Edit Step 52  ¶ 

  • Repeat this process for the other side of the clutch cover. Once the clutch cover is completely free from the clutch hinges, lift it off the front display bezel.

  • When replacing the clutch cover, be sure to route the display data cable so that it is inside the clutch cover and extending out the end between the hinge and the display frame.

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Edit Step 53 Display Data Cable  ¶ 

  • If necessary, remove the piece of tape covering the display data cable connector.

  • Pull the display data cable connector away from its socket to disconnect it from the LCD.

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Edit Step 54  ¶ 

  • Remove the piece of foil tape securing the display data cable to the LCD frame.

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Edit Step 55  ¶ 

  • De-route the display data cable from the right clutch hinge and lift it out of the display.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the PowerBook G4 Aluminum 15" 1.5-1.67 GHz device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 25 In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

Universal Drive Adapter

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iFixit Lock Pick Set

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Inspection Scope

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Frictionless Ratchet

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Portable Anti-Static Mat

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Approximate replacement time 2hrs 15 mins

mayer, · Reply

I recommend that you have several (ie 10-12) little cups nearby with a pen and some small scraps of paper to write on. As you remove screws, step by step, place that step's screws into one cup and label it "Step #X". That way, when you're putting everything back together, you won't have to guess as to which screws were for which step. I did this, on a recommendation of a friend who did this very same repair, and it made the reassembly even easier.

beil, · Reply

Better still is to print out these instructions. Then as you remove screws, scotch tape them to the instruction sheet right on the place where it says to remove them. The tape keeps them from getting lost and the order can't be screwed up.

Lavatop, · Reply

These were such great directions!! It was no harder than baking a cake. I didn't have a spudger, but a thin plastic chopstick worked fine. I took lavatop's tip to print out directions and tape the screws in order. It was great advice. Thanks IFixit!

Karen Ann, · Reply

By "bottom", it means the top ones (if the computer were right-side-up), i.e. the ones closer to the lid.

colleenthompson, · Reply

Don't be hasty! I've seen 2 laptops with a forlorn screw trapped in a video port screwhole, from where it's very difficult, if not impracticable, to remove it.

colleenthompson, · Reply

Quote from colleenthompson:

Don't be hasty! I've seen 2 laptops with a forlorn screw trapped in a video port screwhole, from where it's very difficult, if not impracticable, to remove it.

I've done that. Was not fun extracting the screw. I had to use a a large speaker magnet to get it out.

Dan, · Reply

By "rotate" they mean tilt... You tilt the upper case (which contains the keyboard" up so that it rests against the screen. If you happen to have a helper nearby, get them to gently hold the upper case, when it's tilted up, in place so that you can do step 10.

beil, · Reply

Is it possible for the various connectors to be labeled/identified? I'm trying to test a lower half but I don't know what exactly is missing, trying to figure it out by what's not plugged in.

djfriar, · Reply

It may be easier to disconnect the DC-in connector from the DC-Sound board end of the connector rather than from the logic board side of the connector

Charles Fuller, · Reply

Great guide! Fantastic idea in the comments to print the instructions and then tape the screws by the step as you go. I found that it was easier to remove the screen and hinges before taking out the logic board. It made it much easier to remove and replace the right side of the logic board.

wemerson, · Reply

Under the Airport card there's some glue

Ferex, · Reply

These are the bottom two screws when the computer is positioned as shown

Charles Fuller, · Reply

Ground loop goes on T8 Torx screw nearest the display

Charles Fuller, · Reply

The ground loop attaches with the T8 Torx screw nearest the display

Charles Fuller, · Reply

I neglected to note where the black cable with the round connected which comes off the cable going from the diversity board to the inverter board connects. Does it get held in place under the rightmost screw holding in the LCD retaining bracket?

hugohs, · Reply

I have the same question as asked above. Where does that small black wire connect?

laura moon, · Reply

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